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LG Dishwasher Error Codes & Troubleshooting Guide

Find your LG dishwasher error code and learn what it means, what may be causing it, and which components or systems may need attention. Explore common drain, water supply, heating, motor, sensor, leak, and control system fault codes with practical troubleshooting guidance.

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Understanding LG Dishwasher Error Codes

Modern LG dishwashers use electronic controls, sensors, pumps, motors, valves, and other components to monitor and manage each stage of the wash cycle. When the dishwasher detects that a system is not operating as expected, it may display an error code to help identify the affected function.

LG dishwasher error codes can point to problems involving:

  • Water supply and filling
  • Drainage
  • Water circulation
  • Pumps and motors
  • Heating and water temperature
  • Water level detection
  • Leak detection
  • Door operation
  • Sensors and thermistors
  • Wiring and electrical connections
  • Electronic control systems

The code displayed on the control panel is an important diagnostic clue, but it should not automatically be interpreted as the name of a failed component.

For example, a drainage-related code may appear because the dishwasher cannot remove water within the expected time. The underlying cause could be a clogged filter, restricted drain hose, blocked household drain connection, damaged wiring, poor electrical connection, or a problem with the drain pump itself.

Similarly, a water supply code does not necessarily mean that the water inlet valve has failed. The dishwasher may not be receiving enough water because of a closed supply valve, low water pressure, kinked hose, restricted inlet screen, plumbing problem, or an electrical issue affecting the fill system.

This is why LG dishwasher error codes should be used as a diagnostic starting point rather than a final diagnosis.

Error Codes Help Identify the Affected System

The most useful way to interpret an error code is to determine which part of the dishwasher’s operation the electronic control is monitoring.

A typical dishwasher cycle involves several stages:

Water enters the dishwasher → Water circulates through the spray system → Water temperature is monitored or increased → Dirty water is drained → Additional rinse cycles occur → Final draining and drying take place

Different components and sensors are involved at each stage.

If one of these processes does not occur within the expected conditions, the electronic control may stop or modify the cycle and display a diagnostic message.

The code therefore helps narrow the investigation to a particular system.

Symptoms Are an Important Part of Diagnosis

The error code should always be considered together with what the dishwasher is actually doing.

Useful symptoms include:

  • Dishwasher does not fill
  • Water remains in the bottom of the tub
  • Dishwasher fills but does not wash
  • Spray arms do not appear to circulate water properly
  • Cycle stops unexpectedly
  • Dishwasher repeatedly attempts to drain
  • Water leaks underneath the appliance
  • Water does not heat properly
  • Dishes remain wet
  • Unusual noises occur
  • Dishwasher shuts down during the cycle
  • Error appears immediately after pressing Start

The combination of the code and symptoms provides much more diagnostic information than the code alone.

The Model Number Matters

LG has produced many dishwasher models and generations with different components, wiring arrangements, sensors, electronic controls, and diagnostic procedures.

Because of these differences, troubleshooting information may vary by model.

Before performing component-level diagnosis, identify the complete LG dishwasher model number and use model-specific service information whenever possible.

A useful approach is:

Error Code + Dishwasher Symptoms + Exact Model Number

Together, these three pieces of information provide a much stronger starting point for accurate troubleshooting.

How LG Dishwasher Error Codes Work

An LG dishwasher’s electronic control monitors different electrical signals and operating conditions throughout the wash cycle.

Depending on the model, the control may monitor information related to:

  • Water entering the dishwasher
  • Water level or filling conditions
  • Drain operation
  • Water circulation
  • Motor operation
  • Water temperature
  • Heating performance
  • Door status
  • Leak detection
  • Sensor signals
  • Communication between electronic components

The dishwasher expects certain conditions to occur during specific portions of the cycle.

If the expected condition does not occur—or the control receives a signal outside the expected range—the dishwasher may generate an error code.

The Control Is Looking for an Abnormal Condition

Consider a simplified drainage example.

When the dishwasher reaches the drain portion of the cycle, the electronic control expects water to be removed from the tub.

If the expected drainage condition is not achieved within the allowed period, the control may recognize this as a drainage problem and display the corresponding code.

However, the control may not be able to determine whether the underlying cause is:

Drain hose → Filter or obstruction → Household plumbing → Drain pump → Wiring → Electrical connection → Electronic control

The error code identifies the detected condition, while troubleshooting identifies the actual cause.

The same principle applies to filling, heating, circulation, sensing, and other dishwasher systems.

Some Codes Are Based on Sensor Signals

Dishwashers use sensors to provide information to the electronic control.

If a sensor signal is:

  • Missing
  • Outside the expected range
  • Intermittent
  • Electrically open
  • Electrically shorted
  • Inconsistent with the operating condition

the dishwasher may generate a diagnostic code.

But an abnormal sensor signal does not always mean the sensor itself has failed.

The problem may instead involve:

  • Sensor connector
  • Wiring harness
  • Damaged terminal
  • Moisture or corrosion
  • Poor electrical contact
  • Power or reference signal
  • Electronic control circuit

This is why the entire circuit should be considered before replacing a sensor.

Other Codes Are Based on Performance

Not every code represents a direct electrical failure.

Some codes are generated because the dishwasher fails to complete an operation within the expected conditions.

For example, the control may determine that:

  • Water is not entering correctly
  • Water is not draining correctly
  • Temperature is not changing as expected
  • A motor is not operating as expected
  • An abnormal amount of water has been detected
  • A safety condition has occurred

In these cases, the dishwasher is evaluating system performance, not simply checking whether one component is electrically connected.

Error Code Does Not Equal Failed Component

This is one of the most important principles when troubleshooting LG dishwasher error codes:

Error Code ≠ Failed Part

Instead, think of the process as:

Error Code → Detected Condition → Affected System → Possible Causes → Testing → Confirmed Failure

For example:

Drain-related code
→ Dishwasher cannot drain correctly
→ Inspect drain path
→ Check filters and hose
→ Check household drain connection
→ Inspect pump and wiring
→ Test components if necessary

This diagnostic sequence reduces unnecessary parts replacement.

Why a Reset Sometimes Clears the Code

Disconnecting power or restarting the dishwasher may clear some error messages because the electronic control begins a new operating cycle.

If the original condition was temporary, the error may not return.

However:

Code cleared ≠ Problem repaired

If the underlying condition remains, the dishwasher will often detect it again when the affected system is used.

The timing of the returning code can itself provide useful information.

For example:

Returns during filling → investigate the water supply/fill system.

Returns during washing → investigate circulation, motor, sensing, or related systems.

Returns during draining → investigate the drainage system.

Returns during heating or drying → investigate heating and temperature-related systems.

Use the Code as the Beginning of Diagnosis

The most effective troubleshooting sequence is:

1. Record the exact error code

2. Note when it appears during the cycle

3. Observe the dishwasher’s symptoms

4. Identify the affected system

5. Check simple external causes first

6. Inspect wiring and connections when appropriate

7. Test related components using the correct specifications

8. Evaluate electronic controls only after other likely causes have been considered

This approach helps distinguish a simple installation or plumbing problem from an actual component failure.

For detailed troubleshooting, find the exact code displayed on your dishwasher in the LG Dishwasher Error Codes list below.

An LG dishwasher error code is a diagnostic message generated when the electronic control detects that a system, sensor, motor, pump, valve, or operating condition is not behaving as expected.

The code can help narrow the problem to a particular area of the dishwasher, but it usually does not identify the exact failed component by itself.

For example, a drainage-related error may indicate that the dishwasher cannot remove water within the expected time. This tells you where to begin troubleshooting, but the actual cause could be a clogged filter, restricted drain hose, blocked household drain connection, damaged drain pump, wiring problem, loose connector, or another condition affecting water removal.

The same principle applies to filling, circulation, heating, sensing, and other dishwasher systems.

What Information Does the Error Code Provide?

Depending on the code and dishwasher model, an LG error code may indicate an abnormal condition involving:

  • Water supply
  • Water level
  • Drainage
  • Circulation
  • Wash motor operation
  • Drain pump operation
  • Heating system
  • Water temperature
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection
  • Door operation
  • Electrical connections
  • Wiring harnesses
  • Electronic controls
  • Communication between components

The code helps identify the system or condition that requires investigation.

The Code Is Only One Part of the Diagnosis

The most useful diagnostic information comes from combining three things:

Error Code + Symptoms + Model Number

For example, suppose a dishwasher displays a drainage-related code.

Knowing only the code tells you that the control detected a drainage problem.

But additional symptoms can narrow the diagnosis considerably:

Water remains in the tub
→ The dishwasher may genuinely be unable to remove water.

Drain pump can be heard running
→ Check for restrictions in the drain path.

Drain pump is completely silent
→ Pump operation, wiring, connections, or control output may require investigation.

Dishwasher drains into the sink but very slowly
→ The drain hose or household plumbing may be restricted.

These observations help turn a general error code into a useful diagnostic direction.

When the Code Appears Matters

Pay attention to when the error appears during the cycle.

An error that appears immediately after pressing Start may have a different cause from one that appears after 30 minutes of washing.

Useful timing information includes:

  • Immediately after startup
  • During water filling
  • Shortly after filling
  • During washing
  • During draining
  • During heating
  • During rinsing
  • During drying
  • Near the end of the cycle

The timing can help identify which system was operating when the control detected the problem.

Error Code vs. Actual Failure

Think of the diagnostic process as:

Error Code
↓
Detected abnormal condition
↓
Affected dishwasher system
↓
Possible causes
↓
Testing and inspection
↓
Confirmed failure

Skipping directly from error code → replace part can result in unnecessary repairs.

Key Point

An LG dishwasher error code is best used as a diagnostic starting point.

It can tell you which system or operating condition needs attention, but accurate diagnosis usually requires considering the dishwasher’s symptoms, the timing of the error, and the exact model before deciding which component—if any—needs replacement.

One of the most common mistakes when troubleshooting an LG dishwasher is assuming that an error code automatically identifies a defective component.

In many cases, it does not.

The electronic control monitors whether certain operations occur within expected conditions. When something does not happen correctly, the control generates an error code.

The control may know what went wrong operationally, but it may not know why it went wrong.

A Drain Error Does Not Automatically Mean a Bad Drain Pump

Suppose the dishwasher detects that water is not leaving the tub correctly.

The possible causes may include:

  • Clogged filter
  • Food debris
  • Foreign object
  • Restricted drain hose
  • Kinked drain hose
  • Incorrect drain hose installation
  • Blocked garbage disposal connection
  • Household plumbing restriction
  • Damaged drain pump
  • Loose pump connector
  • Damaged wiring
  • Electronic control problem

The dishwasher may only know that the expected drainage condition was not achieved.

Replacing the drain pump without checking the drain path could therefore fail to solve the problem.

A Fill Error Does Not Automatically Mean a Bad Inlet Valve

The same logic applies to water supply problems.

A dishwasher that cannot fill properly may have:

  • Closed water supply valve
  • Partially closed supply valve
  • Low household water pressure
  • Kinked inlet hose
  • Restricted inlet screen
  • Frozen or obstructed water line
  • Inlet valve problem
  • Loose electrical connection
  • Wiring problem
  • Water-level sensing problem

The inlet valve is only one part of the entire filling system.

A Sensor Code Does Not Automatically Mean a Bad Sensor

If the electronic control receives an unexpected sensor signal, the problem may be the sensor—but it may also be elsewhere in the circuit.

Possible causes can include:

  • Sensor failure
  • Loose sensor connector
  • Damaged wiring
  • Corroded terminal
  • Moisture in a connector
  • Open circuit
  • Short circuit
  • Missing supply or reference voltage
  • Electronic control input problem

The entire sensor circuit should be evaluated before replacing the sensor.

A Heating Code Does Not Automatically Mean a Bad Heater

Heating-related problems may involve:

  • Heating element
  • Temperature sensor
  • Thermostat or safety device
  • Wiring
  • Connectors
  • Control relay
  • Electronic control
  • Water level or circulation conditions affecting heating

The dishwasher may detect that the expected temperature change did not occur without being able to identify which part of the heating system caused the problem.

Start With the Simplest Causes

A useful diagnostic order is:

External conditions → Restrictions → Connections → Wiring → Components → Electronic controls

For example:

Drain problem
→ Check filters and drain path first.

Fill problem
→ Check household water supply first.

Door-related problem
→ Check that the door closes correctly before replacing electrical components.

Leak-related problem
→ Find the actual source of water before replacing a leak sensor.

This approach reduces unnecessary parts replacement and often identifies simple causes quickly.

Key Point

Error Code ≠ Failed Part

An LG dishwasher error code identifies a condition the electronic control considers abnormal. The actual cause may be mechanical, electrical, plumbing-related, installation-related, or electronic.

Use the code to identify where to investigate, then confirm the failure before replacing components.

LG has produced many dishwasher models and several generations of dishwasher platforms.

Although two LG dishwashers may look similar from the outside, their internal components, sensors, wiring, electronic controls, and diagnostic logic may differ.

For this reason, the same error-code troubleshooting procedure should not automatically be applied to every LG dishwasher.

Dishwasher Design Can Vary

Depending on the model and production generation, differences may exist in:

  • Main control boards
  • User interface controls
  • Circulation motors
  • Drain pumps
  • Inlet valves
  • Heating systems
  • Temperature sensors
  • Water-level sensing
  • Leak detection
  • Door switches and latches
  • Wiring harnesses
  • Connectors
  • Communication circuits
  • Diagnostic software

These differences can affect both the meaning of a code and the correct troubleshooting procedure.

Electrical Specifications May Also Vary

Component testing often requires specific electrical information.

Depending on the component, technicians may need to know:

  • Resistance
  • Voltage
  • Continuity
  • Current draw
  • Connector location
  • Connector pin assignment
  • Wire color
  • Expected sensor signal

These values should come from service information applicable to the exact dishwasher model.

Do not assume that a resistance or voltage specification from one LG dishwasher applies to another model simply because both display the same error code.

Always Identify the Complete Model Number

Before performing detailed troubleshooting, locate the dishwasher’s complete model number.

The model information is commonly found on an identification label around the dishwasher door or tub opening.

Record the complete model designation rather than relying only on the product family.

A useful search or diagnostic combination is:

Exact LG Model Number + Error Code + Symptoms

For example:

LG [model number] + drain error + water remaining in tub

is much more useful than troubleshooting a generic “LG dishwasher drain problem.”

Model Differences Matter Most During Component Testing

Basic external checks are often similar across many models.

For example, checking for:

  • Closed water supply valve
  • Kinked hose
  • Clogged filter
  • Blocked drain connection
  • Improperly closed door

usually does not require detailed model-specific electrical information.

However, once troubleshooting moves into:

  • Sensor resistance
  • Motor testing
  • Pump testing
  • Heater testing
  • Control-board voltage
  • Connector pin testing
  • Wiring continuity

the exact model becomes much more important.

Key Point

LG dishwasher error codes may share similar general meanings across multiple models, but diagnostic procedures and electrical specifications can vary.

Confirm the complete model number before using detailed component specifications or making a repair decision.

When an LG dishwasher displays an error code, avoid immediately resetting the appliance.

The information available before the reset can be extremely useful for diagnosis.

Instead, document the code and observe what the dishwasher was doing when the error occurred.

Step 1 — Record the Exact Error Code

Write down the exact characters shown on the display.

Taking a photo is often useful because appliance display characters can be easy to misread.

For example:

  • 0 may resemble O
  • 1 may resemble I
  • 5 may resemble S

The exact code matters because similar-looking codes may refer to completely different systems.

Step 2 — Note When the Error Appeared

Determine what stage of the cycle was occurring.

Was the dishwasher:

  • Just starting?
  • Filling with water?
  • Washing?
  • Heating?
  • Draining?
  • Rinsing?
  • Drying?
  • Near the end of the cycle?

Also note how long the dishwasher had been operating before the code appeared.

This timing can help identify which system was active when the abnormal condition was detected.

Step 3 — Observe the Symptoms

Before changing anything, check what the dishwasher is actually doing.

Useful observations include:

  • Is there water inside the tub?
  • Does water enter when the cycle starts?
  • Can you hear the circulation system?
  • Can you hear the drain pump?
  • Does the dishwasher repeatedly attempt to drain?
  • Does the cycle stop completely?
  • Are there unusual noises?
  • Is there water underneath the dishwasher?
  • Does the door close normally?
  • Does the dishwasher restart the same operation repeatedly?

These details may become important later in diagnosis.

Step 4 — Check for Recent Changes

Consider whether anything changed shortly before the problem started.

For example:

  • Dishwasher was recently installed
  • Garbage disposal was recently replaced
  • Plumbing work was performed
  • Dishwasher was moved
  • Appliance was recently repaired
  • Household power was interrupted
  • Water supply was shut off
  • Sink or drain plumbing became clogged

A newly installed garbage disposal with an unopened dishwasher drain connection, for example, creates a very different diagnostic situation from a dishwasher that has operated normally for years.

Step 5 — Perform Safe External Checks

Depending on the code, basic checks may include:

  • Confirm water supply valve is open
  • Inspect inlet hose for kinks
  • Inspect drain hose for kinks
  • Clean accessible filters
  • Check sink drainage
  • Check garbage disposal connection
  • Confirm the dishwasher door closes correctly
  • Look for visible water leakage

These checks can identify common external causes without accessing electrical components.

Step 6 — Find the Exact Code in This Guide

Once you have recorded the symptoms, locate the exact code below.

The individual error-code section will explain:

  • What the code means
  • What condition triggers it
  • Which system is involved
  • Common causes
  • What can be checked
  • Whether component-level diagnosis is required

Step 7 — Keep the Model Number Available

If troubleshooting progresses beyond basic checks, record the complete LG dishwasher model number.

Model-specific information may be required for electrical testing, wiring diagrams, component specifications, and service procedures.

Key Point

When an error code appears:

Record first → Observe symptoms → Note cycle stage → Check simple causes → Find the code → Diagnose the affected system

Resetting the dishwasher immediately can erase useful information about when and how the fault occurred.

In some cases, an LG dishwasher error code may disappear after the appliance is restarted or after the condition that caused the error has been corrected.

However, clearing the display and repairing the underlying problem are two different things.

Code Cleared ≠ Problem Repaired

A reset may restart the electronic control and begin a new operating sequence.

If the original condition was temporary, the code may not return.

For example, a temporary interruption involving water supply, power, or another operating condition could potentially occur once and then disappear.

But if the dishwasher has a persistent:

  • Drain restriction
  • Water supply problem
  • Pump problem
  • Sensor fault
  • Wiring issue
  • Heating problem
  • Leak
  • Electronic control problem

the code is likely to return when the dishwasher reaches the affected portion of the cycle again.

The Timing of the Returning Code Is Useful

If the code returns, note exactly when it happens.

Returns immediately after startup

The control may be detecting an abnormal condition as soon as the dishwasher initializes or begins checking a monitored circuit.

Returns during filling

Investigate the water supply, inlet system, water-level detection, and related components.

Returns during washing

Circulation, motor operation, sensors, or related systems may require attention.

Returns during draining

Focus on the drain path, drain pump, plumbing connection, wiring, and related systems.

Returns during heating or drying

Heating components, temperature sensing, wiring, or electronic controls may require diagnosis.

The point at which the code returns can therefore help narrow the problem.

Should You Keep Resetting the Dishwasher?

Repeatedly resetting the appliance without investigating a recurring error is generally not a useful repair strategy.

If the same code returns consistently, the dishwasher is repeatedly detecting the same abnormal condition.

At that point, the affected system should be diagnosed.

When a Reset Can Be Useful

A reset can still have diagnostic value.

For example:

Reset → Run cycle → Observe exactly when code returns

This can help establish whether the error is:

  • Immediate
  • Intermittent
  • Related to a specific cycle stage
  • Triggered only under certain operating conditions

Use the Correct Procedure for Your Model

Reset procedures can vary by dishwasher model.

Follow the operating or service information for the exact LG dishwasher rather than assuming that one reset procedure applies to every model.

Key Point

A reset can clear the message, but it cannot repair a physical restriction, defective component, damaged wire, leak, or persistent electrical fault.

If the same LG dishwasher error code repeatedly returns, use the code and its timing to continue diagnosis.

Some LG dishwasher error codes can be traced to simple external conditions that homeowners can safely inspect.

Others require internal access, electrical measurements, component testing, or interpretation of model-specific service information.

Professional diagnosis becomes more appropriate when basic checks do not identify the cause.

Problems That May Require Component Testing

Further diagnosis may involve:

  • Drain pump
  • Circulation motor
  • Inlet valve
  • Heating element
  • Temperature sensor
  • Water-level sensor
  • Leak detection system
  • Door switch
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB
  • User interface or communication circuits

Determining whether one of these components has actually failed may require electrical measurements rather than visual inspection.

Internal Electrical Testing

A technician may need to perform tests involving:

  • Resistance
  • Continuity
  • Voltage
  • Current draw
  • Sensor signals
  • Control outputs
  • Wiring continuity
  • Connector pin measurements

The correct expected values should be obtained from information applicable to the exact dishwasher model.

Water and Electricity Require Extra Caution

Dishwashers combine:

Household electrical power + Water + Heating components + Motors

This makes internal troubleshooting potentially hazardous.

Disconnect electrical power before removing access panels or disconnecting internal components unless a specific energized test is required and is being performed by a qualified technician.

Stop Using the Dishwasher for Serious Symptoms

Stop operating the appliance and investigate the problem if you notice:

  • Burning smell
  • Smoke
  • Sparking
  • Melted wiring
  • Repeated breaker trips
  • Significant water leakage
  • Water reaching electrical components
  • Unusual overheating

These conditions should not be treated as routine error-code troubleshooting.

Persistent Codes Need Systematic Diagnosis

If an error returns after simple external causes have been eliminated, diagnosis should follow the complete system.

For example:

Drainage problem

Drain path
→ Filter
→ Hose
→ Household plumbing
→ Drain pump
→ Wiring
→ Control

Water supply problem

Household supply
→ Supply hose
→ Inlet valve
→ Wiring
→ Sensing
→ Control

Heating problem

Water and circulation conditions
→ Heater
→ Temperature sensing
→ Wiring
→ Safety devices
→ Control

This systematic approach helps prevent unnecessary component replacement.

Key Point

Professional diagnosis is recommended when troubleshooting requires access to internal electrical systems, live-voltage measurements, component testing, or model-specific service procedures.

The goal is not simply to make the error code disappear. The goal is to identify why the dishwasher generated the code and correct the underlying condition.

Use the LG dishwasher error-code list below to find the exact code displayed on your appliance.

Each code section is designed to help you understand:

  • What the code means
  • What condition can trigger it
  • Which dishwasher system is involved
  • Common possible causes
  • What you can safely check
  • Which components may require testing
  • When professional diagnosis may be appropriate

Start With the Exact Displayed Code

Compare the characters carefully.

Dishwasher displays can make certain letters and numbers look similar, so avoid identifying the code from memory if possible.

Take a photo of the display and compare it with the list below.

Confirm Your LG Dishwasher Model

Before performing detailed troubleshooting, locate the complete model number.

This becomes particularly important if the code-specific procedure involves:

  • Resistance measurements
  • Voltage measurements
  • Motor testing
  • Sensor testing
  • Connector identification
  • Wiring diagrams
  • Control-board diagnosis

Use model-specific specifications whenever they are available.

Combine the Code With the Symptoms

The strongest starting point is:

Error Code + Model Number + Symptoms

For example:

Drain-related code + water remaining in tub + drain pump running

suggests a different diagnostic direction than:

Drain-related code + empty tub + drain pump completely silent

Likewise:

Fill-related code + no water entering

provides more information than the error code alone.

Start With Simple Causes

Before moving to component-level testing, check relevant external conditions.

Depending on the error, these may include:

  • Water supply
  • Inlet hose
  • Drain hose
  • Filters
  • Sink drain
  • Garbage disposal connection
  • Door closure
  • Visible leakage
  • Recent installation or plumbing changes

Simple external problems can sometimes produce the same symptoms as an internal component failure.

Move From Simple Checks to Technical Diagnosis

A useful general troubleshooting sequence is:

1. Identify the exact code

2. Confirm the dishwasher model

3. Observe the symptoms

4. Determine when the code appears

5. Identify the affected system

6. Check external causes

7. Inspect wiring and connections when appropriate

8. Test related components using the correct specifications

9. Evaluate the electronic control only when necessary

This provides a much more reliable diagnostic process than replacing the component most commonly associated with a particular error code.

Use the Individual Code Guides Below

Select the exact LG dishwasher error code from the list below.

Each section provides code-specific troubleshooting information so you can move from:

Displayed Code → Meaning → Possible Causes → Checks → Diagnosis

If the error returns after basic troubleshooting or requires internal electrical testing, professional appliance diagnosis may be necessary.

Key Point

Do not troubleshoot an LG dishwasher based on the code alone.

For the most accurate diagnosis, use:

Exact Error Code + Exact Model Number + When the Error Appears + Dishwasher Symptoms

Then begin with the simplest possible causes before moving to internal component testing.

The AE error code indicates that the dishwasher has detected a leak condition.

LG identifies AE as:

Leak Error

The code is triggered when water leakage is detected by the dishwasher’s float switch.

What the AE Error Code Means

The dishwasher uses a float-based leak detection system to monitor for water where it should not be.

If water reaches the float assembly and changes the switch state, the control can interpret this as a leak condition and display AE.

The code does not automatically prove that one specific gasket, pump, valve, or hose has failed.

The actual cause can involve:

  • Improper installation
  • Dishwasher not level
  • Door gasket leakage
  • Inner door gasket leakage
  • Fan gasket leakage
  • Water inlet valve sticking open
  • Cracked spray arm
  • Float assembly problem
  • Debris around the float
  • Water reaching the float area from another source

AE should therefore be treated as a leak-detection condition, not as a diagnosis of one failed part.

Common Causes

Possible causes include:

  • Dishwasher tilted forward
  • Improper cabinet installation
  • Tank twisted by incorrect clearances
  • Missing lower tank bushings
  • Damaged lower door gasket
  • Damaged inner door gasket
  • Food or grease buildup on sealing surfaces
  • Defective gasket between the fan and door
  • Cracked or split spray arm
  • Inlet valve mechanically sticking open
  • Calcium buildup on the inlet valve screen
  • Water trapped in the float assembly
  • Debris or insects interfering with the float
  • Float switch that is not operating correctly

LG specifically notes that installation and leveling should be checked before assuming an internal component failure.

Check Dishwasher Leveling

One of the first checks is to confirm that the dishwasher is installed perfectly level.

The source specifically says the unit should be level:

  • Side-to-side
  • Front-to-back

A forward tilt of as little as approximately 3° may be enough to cause AE to appear.

This is important because water inside the tub may move toward areas where it can reach the leak detection system even when there is no major component failure.

Check:

  • Level from left to right
  • Level from front to back
  • Mounting brackets
  • Cabinet clearances
  • Whether the dishwasher tank is being twisted by the surrounding cabinetry

Improper installation can create sealing problems and false or real leak conditions.

Check Cabinet Clearances and Tank Position

LG also recommends checking whether cabinet clearances are correct.

If the surrounding cabinetry places uneven pressure on the dishwasher tub, the tank may twist.

A twisted tub can affect:

  • Door alignment
  • Gasket contact
  • Water containment
  • Leak detection

The dishwasher should sit squarely in the opening without the cabinet forcing the chassis or tub out of alignment.

Check the Lower Tank Bushings

The source instructs technicians to verify that the bushings at the bottom front corners of the tank are present and have not fallen out.

If one of these bushings is missing or displaced, water sealing can be affected.

LG notes that if a bushing has fallen out, silicone can be applied to the rear of the bushing before reinstalling it to help prevent the problem from recurring.

Check the Water Inlet Valve

Start a cycle and observe whether the water inlet valve continues allowing water into the dishwasher when it should have stopped.

If the valve remains on, determine whether:

  • The control is continuously supplying voltage to the valve
  • The valve is mechanically sticking open

The source also recommends checking the valve screen for calcium buildup, which may contribute to the valve sticking.

If mineral buildup is found, water filtration may help reduce recurrence.

A sticking inlet valve can allow excess water into the dishwasher, which may eventually reach the leak detection area.

Check the Lower Door Gasket

Inspect the lower door gasket carefully.

Look for:

  • Deformation
  • Tears
  • Poor sealing
  • Food buildup
  • Grease buildup
  • Areas where the gasket does not contact the tub correctly

Also clean the corresponding sealing surface on the dishwasher tank.

Even a gasket that is not visibly torn can leak if debris prevents it from sealing properly.

Check the Inner Door Gasket

The inner door gasket should also be inspected for:

  • Damage
  • Deformation
  • Dirt
  • Grease
  • Food residue
  • Incorrect seating

Check both the gasket itself and the mating surface on the inner door/tub.

A leak at the inner door gasket may direct water downward toward the base of the dishwasher.

Check the Spray Arms

LG specifically recommends removing the spray arms and checking for a cracked seam.

This can be easy to miss.

Sometimes the spray arm must be twisted slightly to reveal a split in the seam.

A cracked spray arm can redirect water toward:

  • The door
  • Door gaskets
  • Areas not designed for direct spray

Instead of spraying upward normally, pressurized water may force past sealing surfaces and create an apparent door leak.

Why a Cracked Spray Arm Can Cause AE

A split spray arm can create a misleading leak symptom.

The dishwasher may not actually have a failed door seal.

Instead:

Cracked spray arm → Water sprays toward door → Water passes sealing area → Water reaches base → Float switch detects leak → AE appears

This is why the spray arms should be inspected before replacing door gaskets or other major components.

Check the Float Assembly

The source recommends emptying any water from the float assembly and checking it for:

  • Debris
  • Foreign material
  • Insects
  • Anything preventing free movement

The styrofoam block inside the float assembly should move freely and should not stick in one position.

A stuck float can keep the dishwasher in a leak-detected state even after the original water has been removed.

Float Switch Resistance Specification

LG provides a specific resistance test for the float switch.

When the switch is:

Open
→ It should show no continuity

Closed
→ It should read approximately 0.2–0.3 Ω

This test should be performed with power disconnected.

Float Switch Voltage Specification

The source also provides voltage values across the float switch.

Switch open: approximately 5 VDC

Switch closed: approximately 0 VDC

These values help determine whether the switch and its control circuit are changing state correctly.

Live-voltage testing should only be performed by a qualified technician.

Check the Door Bottom Area

LG also instructs technicians to remove the outer door panel and inspect the gasket at the bottom of the door.

Check whether the gasket is:

  • Torn
  • Deformed
  • Out of position
  • Not overlapping the tank correctly

Also inspect for grease and debris on both the gasket and its corresponding sealing surface.

The gasket must overlap the tank correctly to prevent wash water from escaping.

Check the Fan-to-Door Gasket

The source specifically mentions the gasket between the fan and door.

Inspect this gasket for:

  • Damage
  • Poor seating
  • Deformation
  • Signs of leakage

A leak from this area can also allow water to reach the lower section of the appliance and trigger AE.

Check the Lower Spray Arm Again for Splitting

LG emphasizes inspection of the lower spray arm for:

  • Split seams
  • Cracks
  • Damage that directs water toward the door

The arm may need to be twisted slightly to reveal a separation in the seam.

This is one of the more important AE checks because the damage may not be obvious when the arm is sitting normally.

AE With Excessive Suds

Excessive suds can also contribute to water reaching the overflow or leak detection area.

If the dishwasher contains a large amount of foam, consider:

  • Incorrect detergent type
  • Too much detergent
  • Residual hand-dishwashing liquid
  • Detergent overdose

The source’s technical response notes that excessive suds can contribute to water reaching the overflow switch area.

In that situation, several detergent-free rinse cycles may be needed to remove residual suds.

AE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

AE displayed
→ Check dishwasher leveling
→ Confirm cabinet installation and clearances
→ Inspect front tank bushings
→ Check lower and inner door gaskets
→ Clean grease and food from sealing surfaces
→ Inspect spray arms for cracks
→ Check inlet valve for sticking
→ Inspect float assembly for water or debris
→ Confirm styrofoam float moves freely
→ Test float switch resistance
→ Check float switch voltage if necessary
→ Inspect fan-to-door gasket
→ Continue leak tracing if AE returns

This order follows the published troubleshooting logic while starting with the easiest and most common checks.

Can You Clear the AE Code?

AE may remain active as long as the float switch continues detecting water.

Simply resetting the dishwasher may not solve the problem if water is still present in the float area.

A proper repair involves:

  1. Finding the source of the leak or overflow
  2. Correcting that problem
  3. Removing water from the float area
  4. Confirming that the float moves freely
  5. Confirming normal float switch operation

If the underlying cause remains, AE is likely to return.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • AE returns repeatedly
  • Water is visible underneath the dishwasher
  • The inlet valve appears to remain open
  • Internal gaskets require inspection
  • Spray arm damage is suspected but not obvious
  • The float switch requires electrical testing
  • Wiring or control voltage needs to be checked
  • The leak source cannot be identified

Because AE involves both water and electrical components, internal testing should be performed carefully.

Key Point

AE means Leak Error.

The dishwasher displays AE when the float switch detects water leakage.

Start with:

Leveling → Installation → Door gaskets → Spray arms → Inlet valve → Float assembly

Important published specifications are:

  • Forward tilt of approximately 3° may trigger AE
  • Float switch closed: 0.2–0.3 Ω
  • Float switch open: 5 VDC
  • Float switch closed: 0 VDC

Do not replace the float switch or door gasket based on the code alone. First identify how water reached the leak detection area.

The bE error code indicates that the LG dishwasher has detected an abnormal condition associated with excessive bubbles or suds.

The most common cause is the use of an improper detergent, particularly hand dishwashing liquid, which can create much more foam than detergent designed for an automatic dishwasher.

LG also identifies improper dishwasher leveling as an important cause of the bE error.

What the bE Error Code Means

LG identifies bE as:

Bubble Error Code

The dishwasher can detect conditions associated with excessive bubbles by monitoring operation of the washing pump motor.

When bubbles enter the pump, the load on the pump impeller decreases. This can also reduce motor amperage, allowing the dishwasher to recognize an abnormal sudsing condition.

This means bE should not automatically be interpreted as a failed pump or electronic control.

A useful diagnostic path is:

Detergent / Suds → Dishwasher Leveling → Filter & Pump → Nozzles / Water Guide → Vario Motor → Washing Pump Motor

Common Causes

The direct bE troubleshooting information identifies several possible causes:

  • Improper detergent
  • Hand dishwashing liquid
  • Excessive suds
  • Foamy food residue
  • Dishwasher not properly leveled
  • Foreign material in the filter or pump
  • Top nozzle incorrectly assembled
  • Damaged top nozzle
  • Nozzle or water guide incorrectly assembled
  • Damaged lower nozzle or water guide
  • Vario motor problem
  • Washing pump motor problem

The first checks should normally focus on detergent use and dishwasher leveling before moving to component-level diagnosis.

Check the Detergent First

The source specifically warns:

Do not use hand dishwashing liquids in an automatic dishwasher.

Only detergent specifically designed for automatic dishwashers should be used.

Hand dishwashing liquid can produce a large volume of foam during circulation.

Excessive suds can interfere with normal wash-pump operation and cause the dishwasher to detect a bE condition.

Check whether:

  • Hand dish soap was accidentally used
  • Too much dishwasher detergent was added
  • Detergent residue remains in the tub
  • Another cleaning product was added
  • Excessive foam is visible inside the dishwasher

If bE appeared shortly after changing detergent or adding a cleaning product, detergent-related oversudsing should be one of the first possibilities considered.

Foamy Food Can Also Trigger bE

The source provides an unusual but important example: dishes containing foamy food such as whipped cream may contribute to a bE error.

This means the error does not necessarily require misuse of detergent.

A large amount of foamy residue entering the wash water can potentially create conditions similar to detergent oversudsing.

If heavily foamed food residue is present, remove as much of it as practical before starting another cycle.

How to Clear a Detergent-Related bE Error

For a bE condition caused by excessive bubbles, the source recommends turning the dishwasher off and starting a new cycle.

It also provides a specific procedure for removing detergent residue:

  • Pour approximately 4–8 oz of milk into a shallow bowl
  • Place the bowl in the upper rack
  • Run the dishwasher on an Auto cycle

The published procedure is intended to help remove residual detergent and bubbles from the tub.

This procedure is specifically associated with a suds/detergent-related bE condition. It should not be treated as a repair for mechanical or electrical faults.

Check Dishwasher Leveling

If excessive suds are not the cause, check whether the dishwasher is properly leveled.

LG identifies failure to level the appliance as another direct cause of bE.

The dishwasher should sit correctly in the cabinet with the tub properly leveled.

Improper leveling can affect:

  • Water distribution
  • Pump loading
  • Water movement inside the tub
  • How the dishwasher interprets operating conditions

Do not assume that bE is an electrical problem until installation and leveling have been checked.

Check the Water Level in the Tub

The detailed troubleshooting information provides a useful reference for leveling:

The water level should be near the center of both lower tub indentations.

If the water distribution indicates that the tub is not level, adjust the dishwasher legs as necessary.

The goal is to correct the appliance position rather than compensating for the problem by replacing components.

Check the Filter and Pump for Foreign Material

Another possible bE cause is:

Filter / Pump clogging due to foreign matter.

The recommended action is to remove and clean foreign material from the filter and pump area.

Inspect accessible areas for:

  • Food debris
  • Labels
  • Plastic fragments
  • Broken glass
  • Seeds or hard food particles
  • Other foreign objects

A restriction can change water circulation and pump loading, potentially creating conditions that the control interprets as abnormal.

Check the Top Nozzle

The source identifies a misassembled or damaged Top Nozzle as another possible cause.

If the nozzle is incorrectly installed:

Reassemble the Top Nozzle correctly.

If it is damaged:

Replace the nozzle.

Inspect for:

  • Incorrect installation
  • Loose attachment
  • Physical damage
  • Cracks
  • Components not seated correctly

Correct water distribution depends on proper nozzle installation.

Check the Nozzle and Water Guide

The source separately identifies a:

Nozzle – Water Guide misassembled or damaged

condition.

The recommended correction is to properly reassemble the lower nozzle and water guide, or replace the affected components if damaged.

Check whether:

  • Lower nozzle is installed correctly
  • Water guide is seated properly
  • Components are physically damaged
  • Connections between water-distribution components are secure

Improper water routing can affect circulation and washing pump behavior.

Check the Vario Motor

If detergent, leveling, filters, pump restrictions, and nozzle installation are correct, the Vario motor becomes another possible area of diagnosis.

The source recommends checking the Vario motor using the dishwasher’s test mode.

The Vario motor is associated with controlling water distribution within the dishwasher.

A malfunction can interfere with normal circulation behavior and contribute to a bE condition.

The source refers technicians to the nE error-code troubleshooting information for additional Vario motor testing details.

Check the Washing Pump Motor

The source also lists a washing pump motor defect as a possible bE cause.

For a confirmed washing pump motor failure, its published solution is replacement of the sump pump motor.

However, this should not be the first response to a bE code.

Before replacing the washing pump motor, eliminate the much simpler causes:

Improper detergent → Excessive suds → Leveling → Filter/Pump restriction → Nozzle installation → Vario motor

Only then should an actual washing pump motor fault become a stronger possibility.

How the Dishwasher Detects Bubbles

The detection method described by the source helps explain why several different conditions can produce bE.

When bubbles enter the washing pump:

Bubbles enter pump → Load on pump impeller decreases → Motor amperage decreases → Dishwasher detects abnormal pump load

This allows the washing motor itself to help the control recognize excessive bubbles.

Therefore, bE is not simply a sensor saying “there is soap.”

The electronic control is detecting a change in how the circulation system operates.

Why Leveling Can Affect bE

Because bE detection is related to water circulation and washing pump loading, dishwasher position can influence the operating conditions inside the tub.

An incorrectly leveled dishwasher may change:

  • Water distribution
  • Water depth around the sump
  • Pump operating conditions
  • Circulation behavior

This helps explain why LG lists leveling alongside detergent use as one of the primary bE troubleshooting checks.

bE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

bE displayed
→ Check for excessive suds
→ Confirm only automatic dishwasher detergent was used
→ Consider foamy food residue
→ Remove detergent residue if necessary
→ Check dishwasher leveling
→ Verify water position in the lower tub
→ Inspect and clean filter/pump area
→ Check Top Nozzle installation and condition
→ Check lower nozzle and water guide
→ Test Vario motor if necessary
→ Diagnose washing pump motor if previous checks are normal

This sequence moves from the most likely and simplest conditions toward component-level diagnosis.

Can You Clear the bE Code?

For a suds-related condition, the source recommends:

Turn the appliance off → Start a new cycle.

However:

Code cleared ≠ Cause corrected

If excessive detergent remains in the dishwasher, the code may return.

Likewise, resetting the dishwasher will not correct:

  • Improper leveling
  • Filter or pump restriction
  • Damaged nozzle
  • Incorrect water guide installation
  • Vario motor problem
  • Washing pump motor failure

If bE repeatedly returns, continue diagnosis rather than repeatedly resetting the appliance.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis may be appropriate when:

  • bE returns despite using the correct detergent
  • No excessive suds are present
  • Dishwasher is properly leveled
  • Filter and pump area are clean
  • Nozzles and water guide are correctly installed
  • Vario motor operation needs to be tested
  • Washing pump motor operation needs to be evaluated
  • Internal electrical diagnosis is required

Component replacement should follow confirmation of the failure rather than the bE code alone.

Key Point

bE means Bubble Error Code.

The most important first checks are:

Correct dishwasher detergent → Excessive suds → Dishwasher leveling

The source also identifies:

Filter/Pump restriction → Top Nozzle → Lower Nozzle/Water Guide → Vario Motor → Washing Pump Motor

as additional areas of diagnosis.

Because LG detects bubbles partly through changes in washing pump load and motor amperage, bE can sometimes involve circulation conditions even when obvious foam is not visible.

The CL message is not an error code. It indicates that the Control Lock / Child Lock function has been activated.

This feature is designed to prevent unwanted operation of the dishwasher and to keep cycle settings from being changed while the appliance is running.

When Control Lock is active, the dishwasher may appear unresponsive because most controls are intentionally disabled.

What the CL Message Means

CL = Control Lock / Child Lock

The Control Lock function prevents someone from accidentally:

  • Changing the selected cycle
  • Changing settings during operation
  • Activating controls unintentionally
  • Interrupting normal dishwasher operation through the control panel

The appearance of CL does not normally indicate a component failure.

Instead, it tells you that the control panel has intentionally been restricted.

Is CL an Error Code?

No.

The source specifically identifies CL as:

Control Lock Function (Child Lock)

and states that it is not an error code, although it can suspend normal operation of the appliance.

Therefore, CL should not automatically lead to diagnosis of:

  • Main control board
  • User interface
  • Door switch
  • Wiring
  • Power supply
  • Dishwasher motor
  • Pump

If CL is displayed, first determine whether Control Lock has simply been activated.

What Happens When Control Lock Is Active?

When Child Lock is selected, most dishwasher controls become unavailable.

According to the source, all controls are disabled except:

  • CHILD LOCK
  • POWER

This intentional restriction can make the dishwasher appear as though the control panel has stopped responding.

For example, pressing cycle or option buttons may have no effect while the lock is active.

That behavior is expected.

CL Can Appear During a Cycle

Control Lock can be activated while a cycle is running.

When this happens, the display may alternate between:

CL

and

Remaining Cycle Time

This alternating display is normal when Child Lock is active.

It does not mean that CL is appearing intermittently because of an electronic fault.

Why the Dishwasher Controls May Not Respond

If CL is displayed and most buttons do not respond, the first possibility to consider is the active Control Lock function.

The logic is:

Control Lock activated
→ CL appears
→ Most control buttons are disabled
→ Dishwasher appears unresponsive

This can easily be mistaken for:

  • Frozen control panel
  • Failed touch controls
  • Electronic control failure
  • Dishwasher that will not start

Before troubleshooting those systems, confirm whether Control Lock is active.

Child Lock Remains Active After the Cycle

One particularly important detail from the source is:

Child Lock remains active after the end of the cycle.

This means completing a wash cycle does not necessarily cancel the lock.

A user may return to the dishwasher after the cycle has finished, attempt to select another program, and discover that the controls still appear locked.

This is normal if Control Lock was not manually disabled.

Does Turning the Dishwasher Off Automatically Disable CL?

Do not assume that completing a cycle or simply reaching the end of operation will disable Control Lock.

The source explicitly states that Child Lock lasts after the end of the cycle.

Therefore, if CL remains present after washing is complete, first use the appropriate Control Lock cancellation procedure for the dishwasher model.

How to Turn Off Control Lock

The exact method used to enable or disable Control Lock can vary by LG dishwasher model and control-panel design.

Look for:

  • A button labeled Control Lock
  • A button labeled Child Lock
  • A lock symbol printed near one or more controls
  • A control-panel instruction indicating which button should be held

Use the owner’s manual for the exact dishwasher model to confirm the correct button or button combination and required hold time.

Do not assume that the same Control Lock procedure applies to every LG dishwasher.

Why the Model Number Matters

LG dishwasher control panels vary considerably between models.

One model may use a dedicated control, while another may assign Control Lock as a secondary function of another button.

For this reason, identify the complete model number before following model-specific instructions.

The correct sequence is:

CL displayed → Confirm Control Lock is active → Identify dishwasher model → Follow model-specific unlock procedure

This avoids unnecessarily resetting or servicing a dishwasher that is functioning normally.

CL vs. a Control Panel Failure

The symptoms can sometimes look similar.

Normal CL condition:

  • CL appears on the display
  • Control Lock has been activated
  • Most buttons are intentionally disabled
  • POWER and Child Lock controls remain available
  • Dishwasher may otherwise operate normally

Possible control problem:

  • Control Lock has been correctly disabled
  • CL is no longer active
  • Controls still do not respond normally
  • Dishwasher exhibits additional abnormal behavior

Only after Control Lock has been ruled out should an actual control-panel or electronic problem become a stronger possibility.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher?

A power reset should not be the first response to a normal CL indication.

CL represents an enabled feature rather than a diagnostic fault.

The appropriate first action is to disable Control Lock using the procedure specified for the exact model.

Resetting power without understanding why CL is displayed can also create confusion if the lock behavior persists.

What If CL Cannot Be Turned Off?

If the correct model-specific Control Lock procedure does not disable CL, check:

  • Whether the correct button is being used
  • Whether the button must be pressed and held
  • Whether the dishwasher is currently in a particular operating state
  • Whether the owner’s manual specifies a different procedure
  • Whether the relevant control responds normally

If the correct procedure has been confirmed and Control Lock still cannot be disabled, further diagnosis of the user interface or electronic controls may be appropriate.

Does CL Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

If CL disappears after Control Lock is disabled and the dishwasher controls return to normal operation, no repair is required.

Professional diagnosis may be appropriate only if:

  • CL cannot be disabled using the correct procedure
  • Control Lock repeatedly activates unexpectedly
  • The relevant control button does not respond
  • The dishwasher remains unresponsive after Control Lock is disabled
  • Other error codes or abnormal symptoms are present

The important first step is to distinguish a normal locked control panel from an actual electronic malfunction.

CL Diagnostic Sequence

A practical sequence is:

CL displayed
→ Recognize that CL is not an error code
→ Confirm Control Lock / Child Lock is active
→ Remember that most controls are intentionally disabled
→ Identify the complete LG dishwasher model
→ Find the model-specific Control Lock procedure
→ Disable Control Lock
→ Confirm normal control-panel operation
→ If CL cannot be disabled, continue with model-specific diagnosis

This prevents unnecessary troubleshooting of a dishwasher that may simply have its controls locked.

CL vs. Actual LG Dishwasher Error Codes

CL should remain in an LG Dishwasher Error Codes guide because users frequently search for it as though it were a fault.

However, it should be clearly distinguished from true diagnostic errors.

CL — Control Lock / Child Lock
→ Normal feature/status message
→ Most controls intentionally disabled
→ No repair normally required

Diagnostic error code
→ Dishwasher detected an abnormal operating condition
→ Troubleshooting may be required

This distinction should be made immediately when a user searches for the meaning of CL.

Key Point

CL means Control Lock / Child Lock. It is not an error code.

When Control Lock is active:

  • Most controls are disabled
  • CHILD LOCK and POWER remain available
  • During a cycle, the display can alternate between CL and the remaining cycle time
  • Child Lock remains active after the cycle ends

If CL appears, do not assume the dishwasher has failed. First use the correct model-specific Control Lock cancellation procedure and confirm that normal control operation returns.

The E1 error code indicates that the LG dishwasher has detected a water leak condition.

The dishwasher’s leak detection system uses a float switch to detect water in an area where it should not normally be present.

When the float switch detects this condition, the dishwasher can display the E1 error code.

What the E1 Error Code Means

LG identifies E1 as:

Leak Error

The immediate meaning is:

Water leaking has been detected by the float switch.

However, E1 does not identify the exact location of the leak or prove that the float switch itself has failed.

The diagnostic question is:

How did water reach the leak detection system?

Possible causes range from installation and leveling problems to leaking gaskets, a sticking inlet valve, damaged spray arms, or a problem with the float assembly.

Common Causes

Possible causes of an E1 condition include:

  • Dishwasher not properly leveled
  • Dishwasher tilted forward
  • Incorrect installation
  • Cabinet clearances twisting the dishwasher tank
  • Missing or displaced lower tank bushings
  • Lower door gasket leaking
  • Inner door gasket leaking
  • Food or grease preventing a gasket from sealing
  • Water inlet valve sticking open
  • Calcium buildup around the inlet valve screen
  • Cracked or split spray arm
  • Water inside the float assembly
  • Debris interfering with the float
  • Float mechanism sticking
  • Defective float switch
  • Fan-to-door gasket leak

Because several different problems can eventually put water into the leak detection area, E1 should not be used by itself to decide which component to replace.

Check Dishwasher Leveling First

One of LG’s first recommended checks is proper installation and leveling.

The dishwasher should be level:

  • Side-to-side
  • Front-to-back

The source specifically notes that a forward tilt of as little as approximately 3° can cause the error to appear.

Use a level rather than relying only on how the dishwasher looks inside the cabinet.

Also inspect:

  • Mounting brackets
  • Adjustable legs
  • Cabinet opening
  • Dishwasher alignment
  • Clearances around the tub

A dishwasher that is slightly out of position can change how water behaves inside the tub.

Check for a Twisted Dishwasher Tank

Cabinet clearances are also important.

The surrounding cabinetry should not place enough pressure on the dishwasher to distort or twist the tank.

A distorted installation can affect:

  • Door alignment
  • Gasket contact
  • Water containment
  • Spray patterns

Therefore, an E1 condition can sometimes originate with installation rather than a failed dishwasher component.

Check the Lower Tank Bushings

Inspect the bushings located at the bottom front corners of the tank.

The source specifically instructs technicians to verify that these bushings have not fallen out or gone missing.

If one has come out, the source recommends applying silicone to the rear of the bushing before reinstalling it to help prevent recurrence.

This is a relatively small installation/sealing detail that can easily be overlooked during a general leak inspection.

Check the Water Inlet Valve

Start a cycle and observe the dishwasher’s filling behavior.

The water inlet valve should not continue admitting water after the control tells it to stop.

If water continues entering the dishwasher, determine whether:

Voltage continues to be supplied to the valve

or

The valve is mechanically sticking open.

These are two different faults and should not be diagnosed the same way.

Check for Calcium Buildup

If the inlet valve is mechanically sticking, inspect its screen for calcium buildup.

Mineral deposits may interfere with proper valve operation.

The source recommends considering water filtration when calcium accumulation is contributing to repeated valve problems.

A valve that does not close correctly may allow excessive water into the dishwasher, eventually contributing to an E1 leak condition.

Inspect the Lower Door Gasket

Check the lower door gasket carefully.

Look for:

  • Deformation
  • Tears
  • Incorrect positioning
  • Poor contact with the tub
  • Food residue
  • Grease buildup

Also clean and inspect the corresponding sealing surface on the dishwasher tank.

A gasket does not necessarily have to be visibly destroyed to leak. Grease or debris between two sealing surfaces can sometimes be enough to allow water to escape.

Inspect the Inner Door Gasket

The inner door gasket is another potential leak source.

Check it for:

  • Damage
  • Deformation
  • Incorrect seating
  • Food contamination
  • Grease buildup

Inspect the corresponding surface on the inner door as well.

The goal is to determine whether water is escaping because the sealing surfaces are damaged or simply unable to make proper contact.

Inspect the Spray Arms for Cracks

Remove the spray arms and inspect their seams carefully.

LG’s troubleshooting information specifically warns about a cracked spray-arm seam.

A crack may not always be obvious. The source notes that the spray arm may need to be twisted slightly before the split becomes visible.

This is an important E1 diagnostic check because a damaged spray arm can imitate a door-seal problem.

Why a Cracked Spray Arm Can Cause E1

Normally, the spray arm directs pressurized water into the dishwasher tub.

If the arm splits:

Spray arm cracks
→ Water exits in the wrong direction
→ High-pressure water is directed toward the door
→ Water pushes past sealing areas
→ Water reaches the dishwasher base
→ Float switch detects water
→ E1 appears

The source specifically notes that a cracked arm can cause water to push past the gaskets rather than spraying normally.

Therefore, replacing a door gasket without inspecting the spray arms can result in a misdiagnosis.

Check the Float Assembly

If water has reached the float assembly, empty it and inspect the area.

Look for:

  • Standing water
  • Debris
  • Foreign material
  • Possible insects
  • Anything interfering with movement

The source specifically mentions checking for debris or insects inside the float assembly.

Check the Styrofoam Float

The float assembly contains a styrofoam block used as part of the leak detection mechanism.

Make sure it:

  • Moves freely
  • Does not bind
  • Does not remain stuck in one position

A stuck float can keep the leak signal active even after the original water has been removed.

This creates an important distinction:

Water leak corrected ≠ Leak detection system automatically returned to normal

The float itself must also be able to return to its normal position.

Test the Float Switch Resistance

If the physical checks do not resolve the problem, the float switch can be electrically tested.

According to the source:

Switch open:
No continuity

Switch closed:
Approximately 0.2–0.3 Ω

Resistance testing should be performed with power removed from the appliance.

A switch that does not change state correctly may require further diagnosis.

Test the Float Switch Voltage

The source also provides voltage specifications:

Float switch open: approximately 5 VDC

Float switch closed: approximately 0 VDC

These measurements can help determine whether the float-switch circuit is communicating the expected state to the electronic control.

Because this involves energized electrical testing inside an appliance containing water systems, live-voltage diagnosis should be performed by a qualified technician.

Inspect the Bottom Door Gasket

The source also describes a deeper inspection involving removal of the outer door panel.

After gaining access, inspect the gasket at the bottom of the door.

Check whether it is:

  • Torn
  • Deformed
  • Misaligned
  • Contaminated with grease or debris
  • Failing to overlap the tank correctly

The source specifically states that this gasket must overlap the tank properly.

Poor overlap can allow water to escape even when the gasket itself does not appear badly damaged.

Inspect the Fan-to-Door Gasket

Another specific leak location identified by the source is the gasket between the fan and the door.

Inspect this sealing area for evidence of:

  • Gasket failure
  • Poor seating
  • Water tracks
  • Moisture
  • Physical damage

A leak in this area can allow water to travel downward and eventually activate the float switch.

Inspect the Lower Spray Arm Carefully

Pay particular attention to the lower spray arm.

The source again emphasizes checking it for:

  • Splits
  • Cracked seams
  • Other physical damage

A damaged lower spray arm may direct water toward the door instead of distributing it normally through the tub.

Again, slightly twisting the spray arm may be necessary to reveal a hidden split.

E1 Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

E1 displayed
→ Confirm dishwasher is level
→ Check installation and cabinet clearances
→ Inspect lower tank bushings
→ Observe inlet valve operation
→ Inspect valve screen for mineral buildup
→ Check lower door gasket
→ Check inner door gasket
→ Inspect spray arms for hidden cracks
→ Remove water from float assembly
→ Check float for debris and free movement
→ Test float switch if necessary
→ Inspect bottom door gasket
→ Inspect fan-to-door gasket
→ Trace any remaining leak source

The purpose is to identify why the float switch detected water, rather than simply replacing the float switch.

Can You Clear the E1 Code?

E1 may disappear once:

  1. The actual leak or overflow condition is corrected
  2. Water is removed from the float area
  3. The float returns to its normal position
  4. The float switch changes state correctly

However:

E1 cleared ≠ Leak repaired

If only the water underneath the dishwasher is removed while the actual leak remains, E1 can return during a later cycle.

Repeatedly resetting the dishwasher without identifying the leak source is therefore not a reliable repair.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • E1 repeatedly returns
  • Water is visible underneath the dishwasher
  • The source of the leak cannot be located
  • The dishwasher continues filling unexpectedly
  • Internal door seals need inspection
  • A spray arm leak is suspected
  • Float switch electrical testing is required
  • Live voltage measurements are required
  • Wiring or electronic control problems are suspected

Stop using the dishwasher if significant water leakage is occurring near electrical components.

E1 vs. AE

On the referenced LG dishwasher error-code source, both E1 and AE are identified as Leak Error conditions associated with water detected by the float switch.

So although users may encounter different displayed codes depending on the dishwasher model or generation, the troubleshooting path can be very similar:

Leak detection → Find where the water came from → Correct the cause → Restore normal float operation

Always use the exact model number when moving beyond these general checks.

Key Point

E1 means Leak Error.

The dishwasher’s float switch has detected a water-leak condition.

Important checks include:

Leveling → Installation → Tank Bushings → Inlet Valve → Door Gaskets → Spray Arms → Float Assembly

Important specifications from the direct source are:

  • Forward tilt of approximately 3° can cause the error
  • Closed float switch: approximately 0.2–0.3 Ω
  • Open float switch: approximately 5 VDC
  • Closed float switch: approximately 0 VDC

Do not replace the float switch simply because E1 appears. The critical diagnostic task is finding how water reached the leak detection area.

The F31 error code indicates a problem with the dishwasher’s heated air dry fan system.

LG identifies F31 as:

Heated Air Dry Fan Error

The direct cause listed for this code is:

The heated air dry fan motor is not running.

The dishwasher’s electronic control expects the heated dry fan to operate and provide the appropriate feedback during the drying system’s operation. If the expected fan operation is not detected, F31 can be displayed.

What the F31 Error Code Means

F31 points specifically to the heated air dry fan circuit.

The problem may involve:

  • Heated dry fan motor
  • Fan power supply
  • Fan ground circuit
  • PWM control signal
  • Fan feedback signal
  • Wiring or connectors
  • Electronic control

The error does not automatically prove that the fan motor itself has failed.

A motor that does not run may simply not be receiving the power or control signal required to operate.

For this reason, diagnosis should determine:

Is the fan receiving power? → Is it receiving a control signal? → Is the fan providing feedback? → Is the motor actually operating?

How the Heated Air Dry Fan System Works

The heated air dry fan is part of the dishwasher’s drying system.

The electronic control can command the fan to operate during the appropriate stage of dishwasher operation.

For the system to work correctly, several electrical conditions must be present:

  • Power supplied to the fan
  • Proper ground
  • PWM control signal
  • Feedback signal from the fan

If one part of this circuit is missing, the fan may not operate correctly even if the fan motor itself is functional.

This is why F31 should be diagnosed as a system/circuit fault, not immediately as a defective fan motor.

Common Causes

Possible causes of an F31 condition include:

  • Failed heated air dry fan motor
  • No 12 VDC supply to the fan
  • Missing PWM command
  • Incorrect or missing fan feedback
  • Open wiring
  • Loose connector
  • Poor electrical connection
  • Damaged wiring harness
  • Ground circuit problem
  • Electronic control problem

The direct LG troubleshooting procedure specifically instructs technicians to check the heated dry fan motor for 12 VDC, followed by the PWM signal and feedback.

Check the Heated Dry Fan Motor

The first component associated with F31 is the Heated Dry Fan Motor.

Determine whether the fan:

  • Receives the required power
  • Receives its control signal
  • Has a proper ground
  • Provides the expected feedback
  • Physically operates when commanded

If the fan does not run, do not immediately replace it.

First determine whether the failure is:

Motor-side

or

Power/control-side

This distinction can prevent replacement of a functional fan when the actual problem is wiring or control related.

Check for 12 VDC

LG’s direct troubleshooting instruction states:

Check the Heated Dry Fan Motor for 12 VDC.

This is an important first electrical test.

If the expected supply voltage is present but the fan does not operate, the fan motor itself becomes a stronger suspect.

If 12 VDC is missing, diagnosis should move upstream toward:

  • Wiring
  • Connectors
  • Power supply circuit
  • Electronic control

A missing supply voltage means the motor cannot be condemned based on F31 alone.

Check the PWM Signal

The source also instructs technicians to:

Check for PWM signal.

PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation.

Rather than simply switching the fan on with a basic power circuit, the dishwasher can use a PWM signal as part of controlling fan operation.

If the power supply and ground are correct but the PWM command is missing or incorrect, the fan may not operate as expected.

This makes the control signal an important part of F31 diagnosis.

Check the Feedback Signal

The fan circuit also provides feedback.

LG specifically instructs technicians to check both:

PWM signal and feedback.

Feedback allows the electronic system to determine whether the fan is responding to the command it receives.

Conceptually:

Control sends fan command
→ Fan should operate
→ Fan circuit returns feedback
→ Control evaluates fan operation

If the expected feedback is missing or outside the expected range, F31 may be generated.

Model-Specific Wiring Example

The direct source provides wiring examples for:

  • LDTH7972
  • LDPH7972
  • LDPS6762

For these models, the example heated dry fan connector is described as follows:

Pin 1 — Black wire
Feedback: approximately 2–4.5 VDC

Pin 2 — Gray wire
Power supply: 12 VDC

Pin 3 — Blue wire
Ground

Pin 4 — Sky Blue wire
PWM: approximately 2.5 VDC ± 1 VDC

These specifications are useful for diagnosis, but they should not automatically be applied to every LG dishwasher.

Why the Model Number Matters

The wiring colors and connector details above are specifically identified by the source as examples from models LDTH7972, LDPH7972, and LDPS6762.

Other LG dishwasher models may use:

  • Different wiring colors
  • Different connector layouts
  • Different pin assignments
  • Different drying-system designs

Therefore:

Do not identify a circuit only by wire color.

Always verify the exact dishwasher model and its wiring information before performing electrical measurements.

How to Interpret the Electrical Tests

The electrical measurements can help separate several possible failures.

12 VDC missing

Possible direction:

Power/control circuit → Connector → Wiring → Electronic control

12 VDC present, PWM missing

Possible direction:

Control signal circuit → Wiring → Electronic control

Power and PWM present, but fan does not run

Possible direction:

Fan motor → Connector → Ground circuit

Fan operates but feedback is missing or incorrect

Possible direction:

Feedback circuit → Fan electronics → Wiring → Electronic control

These are diagnostic directions rather than proof that any specific component has failed.

Check the Wiring and Connectors

Because the fan depends on multiple electrical circuits, inspect the associated wiring carefully.

Look for:

  • Loose connectors
  • Partially seated connectors
  • Broken wires
  • Damaged insulation
  • Corrosion
  • Moisture
  • Burned terminals
  • Backed-out connector pins

A poor connection can interrupt power, PWM, ground, or feedback and produce symptoms similar to a failed fan.

Check the Ground Circuit

The fan also requires a reliable ground.

In the model examples supplied by the source, Pin 3 / Blue wire is identified as GND.

A failed ground circuit can prevent fan operation even when the expected supply voltage is available.

This is another reason not to diagnose the fan solely by checking for 12 VDC.

The complete operating circuit must be considered.

F31 and Drying Problems

Because F31 involves the heated air dry fan, the dishwasher may also exhibit drying-related symptoms.

Depending on the model and operating condition, the user may notice that the dishwasher:

  • Displays F31
  • Does not complete drying normally
  • Leaves dishes wetter than expected
  • Experiences abnormal drying-system operation

However, the error code itself is the more specific diagnostic clue.

Poor drying without F31 can have many other causes and should not automatically be diagnosed as a heated dry fan failure.

Can You Clear the F31 Code?

A reset may temporarily clear the displayed code, but:

Code Cleared ≠ Fan System Repaired

If the dishwasher again commands the heated dry fan and does not detect the expected operation, F31 can return.

A persistent F31 condition requires identifying whether the problem is with:

  • Power
  • Ground
  • PWM command
  • Feedback
  • Wiring
  • Fan motor
  • Control system

Repeatedly resetting the dishwasher does not correct an electrical or motor failure.

F31 Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

F31 displayed
→ Confirm exact dishwasher model
→ Inspect heated dry fan and connectors
→ Check fan wiring
→ Check for 12 VDC supply
→ Verify ground circuit
→ Check PWM command
→ Check feedback signal
→ Compare measurements with model-specific technical information
→ Determine whether the problem is fan, wiring, or control related

For the models specifically referenced by the source:

Feedback: 2–4.5 VDC
Power: 12 VDC
Ground: GND
PWM: 2.5 VDC ± 1 VDC

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • F31 repeatedly returns
  • Heated dry fan does not operate
  • Internal wiring must be inspected
  • 12 VDC supply needs to be measured
  • PWM signal needs to be checked
  • Fan feedback needs to be evaluated
  • Connector pin measurements are required
  • Electronic control failure is suspected

These tests involve energized electrical circuits, so live-voltage measurements should be performed by a qualified technician.

Key Point

F31 means Heated Air Dry Fan Error.

The direct fault condition is:

Heated air dry fan motor is not running.

LG’s primary diagnostic path is:

Check Heated Dry Fan Motor → Check 12 VDC → Check PWM → Check Feedback

For the example models LDTH7972, LDPH7972, and LDPS6762, the source provides:

  • Feedback: 2–4.5 VDC
  • Fan supply: 12 VDC
  • Ground: GND
  • PWM: 2.5 VDC ± 1 VDC

Do not replace the heated dry fan based on F31 alone. First determine whether the fan is receiving the correct power, ground, command, and feedback signals.

The F35 error code indicates that the dishwasher has detected an abnormal reading from the heated air temperature sensor.

LG identifies F35 as:

Heated Air Temperature Sensor Error

The direct cause listed for this code is:

Heated air temperature sensor is out of range.

The published troubleshooting procedure directs diagnosis toward the air-dry temperature sensor and heater circuit.

What the F35 Error Code Means

The dishwasher uses a temperature sensor in the heated-air drying system to monitor temperature during operation.

If the sensor reading falls outside the expected range, the electronic control can recognize the condition as abnormal and display F35.

The problem may involve:

  • Heated air temperature sensor / thermistor
  • Sensor wiring
  • Sensor connector
  • Air-dry heater
  • Heater wiring
  • Heater power supply
  • Electronic control

F35 therefore identifies the heated-air temperature monitoring system, but it does not automatically prove that the temperature sensor itself has failed.

How the Heated Air Temperature Sensor Works

The temperature sensor is a thermistor.

A thermistor changes electrical resistance as its temperature changes. The dishwasher’s electronic control interprets this resistance to determine the temperature in the heated-air drying system.

Conceptually:

Temperature changes
→ Thermistor resistance changes
→ Control reads sensor value
→ Control determines heated-air temperature

If the resistance is outside the expected range, the control may no longer receive a plausible temperature reading and can generate F35.

Common Causes

Possible causes include:

  • Heated air thermistor out of range
  • Failed temperature sensor
  • Open sensor circuit
  • Shorted sensor circuit
  • Loose sensor connector
  • Damaged wiring harness
  • Poor electrical connection
  • Air-dry heater problem
  • Missing heater voltage
  • Electronic control problem

Because both the sensor and heater are included in the published diagnostic procedure, diagnosis should evaluate the entire heated-air temperature system rather than replacing the thermistor immediately.

Check the Heated Air Temperature Sensor Resistance

LG’s primary sensor test is resistance.

The source specifies:

Heated air temperature sensor: 8–44 kΩ

A measurement outside this range can indicate an abnormal sensor or sensor circuit.

However, thermistor resistance changes with temperature.

For that reason, a resistance measurement should be interpreted with the sensor’s operating conditions and the exact dishwasher model in mind.

Air Dry Thermistor Check

For the model examples provided by the source, the Air Dry Thermistor is measured between:

Pin 1 — Red wire

and

Pin 2 — Black wire

Expected resistance:

8 kΩ–44 kΩ

The source identifies these wiring-color examples specifically for:

  • LDTH7972
  • LDPH7972
  • LDPS6762

Therefore, the red/black wiring information should not automatically be applied to every LG dishwasher.

What an Out-of-Range Thermistor Reading Can Mean

If the sensor resistance is outside the expected range, several possibilities should be considered:

Sensor itself out of range
→ Possible defective thermistor

Open circuit
→ Possible broken sensor, disconnected connector, or open wiring

Unexpectedly low resistance
→ Possible sensor or circuit short

Intermittent reading
→ Possible connector or wiring problem

The thermistor should not be replaced until the wiring and connections have also been considered.

Inspect the Sensor Wiring and Connector

Before condemning the temperature sensor, inspect its electrical circuit.

Look for:

  • Loose connector
  • Connector not fully seated
  • Bent or backed-out terminals
  • Broken wires
  • Damaged insulation
  • Corrosion
  • Moisture
  • Heat-damaged wiring
  • Poor terminal contact

A perfectly functional thermistor can appear out of range to the control if its signal cannot travel correctly through the wiring harness.

Check the Air Dry Heater

The direct F35 procedure does not stop with the thermistor.

LG also instructs technicians to check the heater.

This is important because F35 occurs within the heated-air drying system. An abnormal heating condition can affect what the temperature-monitoring system sees during operation.

The diagnostic path should therefore include:

Temperature Sensor → Wiring → Air Dry Heater → Heater Power → Control

Air Dry Heater Resistance

There is an important specification detail on the source page.

The general Solution section states:

Check heater for 40–45 Ω.

However, the lower AIR DRY HEATER CHECK diagram for the example models specifies:

11–13 Ω between the indicated heater pins.

These values should not be treated as interchangeable universal specifications.

Always use the technical information for the exact dishwasher model when deciding whether a heater resistance measurement is correct.

Model-Specific Air Dry Heater Example

For the model examples LDTH7972, LDPH7972, and LDPS6762, the source shows the Air Dry Heater check between:

Pin 1 — Yellow wire

and

Pin 2 — White wire

with an expected resistance of:

11–13 Ω

Because this information is explicitly presented as a model example, confirm the wiring diagram for the exact dishwasher before using wire colors or pin assignments for diagnosis.

Check Heater Voltage

The general troubleshooting procedure also instructs technicians to:

Check heater for 120 volts.

This separates two fundamentally different possibilities:

Correct voltage reaches heater, but heater does not operate correctly
→ Heater becomes a stronger suspect

Expected voltage does not reach heater
→ Diagnosis should move toward wiring, connectors, switching/control circuit, or electronic control

A heater should therefore not be replaced solely because the drying system is not heating.

Resistance Testing vs. Voltage Testing

These two tests answer different questions.

Resistance test

Determines whether the component’s electrical resistance is within the expected range.

Voltage test

Determines whether the dishwasher is actually supplying power to the component when it should operate.

A component can have acceptable resistance but still fail to operate because it is not receiving power.

Conversely, correct voltage can be present while the component itself is defective.

Why the Exact Model Number Matters

F35 is a good example of why model-specific technical information is important.

The direct source itself contains:

  • General heater specification: 40–45 Ω
  • Model-example heater specification: 11–13 Ω
  • Thermistor specification: 8–44 kΩ
  • Model-specific wiring colors and pin information

Because dishwasher designs can differ, do not assume that a resistance value or connector layout from one model applies to another.

Use:

Error Code + Exact Model Number + Symptoms + Model-Specific Specifications

when performing component-level diagnosis.

F35 and Drying Problems

Because F35 involves the heated-air temperature system, the dishwasher may also experience abnormal drying performance.

Possible accompanying symptoms can include:

  • F35 appearing during drying
  • Drying cycle not operating normally
  • Heated-air system not reaching expected conditions
  • Dishes remaining wetter than expected

However, poor drying by itself does not prove an F35-related failure.

Many unrelated conditions can cause poor dishwasher drying.

The actual F35 code is the stronger diagnostic clue that the control has detected an abnormal heated-air temperature condition.

F35 Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

F35 displayed
→ Confirm exact dishwasher model
→ Inspect thermistor connector and wiring
→ Measure heated-air thermistor resistance
→ Compare with 8–44 kΩ published range
→ Inspect air-dry heater circuit
→ Measure heater resistance using the correct model specification
→ Check heater power when appropriate
→ Verify wiring and connectors
→ Evaluate electronic control only after sensor/heater circuits are checked

This approach separates a sensor fault from a heater, wiring, power, or control problem.

Can You Clear the F35 Code?

Power cycling may clear the displayed error temporarily.

However:

Code Cleared ≠ Temperature System Repaired

If the control again detects an out-of-range heated-air temperature sensor condition, F35 can return.

A persistent code requires identifying whether the underlying problem is associated with:

  • Thermistor
  • Wiring
  • Heater
  • Heater power
  • Electronic control

Repeated resets should not substitute for diagnosis.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • F35 repeatedly returns
  • Thermistor resistance needs to be measured
  • Heater resistance requires testing
  • Heater voltage needs to be checked
  • Internal wiring or connectors require inspection
  • Model-specific electrical specifications are needed
  • The thermistor tests normally but F35 persists
  • Electronic control failure is suspected

Live 120 VAC testing presents an electrical shock hazard and should be performed by a qualified technician.

Key Point

F35 means Heated Air Temperature Sensor Error.

The dishwasher has detected that the heated air temperature sensor is out of range.

The direct diagnostic path is:

Air Dry Thermistor → Heater → Heater Power → Wiring/Connections → Control

Published specifications include:

  • Heated-air temperature sensor: 8–44 kΩ
  • General heater check listed by source: 40–45 Ω
  • Heater supply check: 120 VAC
  • Model-example Air Dry Heater for LDTH7972/LDPH7972/LDPS6762: 11–13 Ω

Do not replace the temperature sensor based on F35 alone. Confirm the sensor circuit and verify the heated-air system using the specifications for the exact dishwasher model.

The F37 error code indicates a problem with the dishwasher’s Auto Open Dry motor system.

LG identifies F37 as:

Auto Open Dry Motor Error

The Auto Open Dry system uses a motorized door opener to automatically open the dishwasher door when required during the drying process. If the dishwasher cannot operate this mechanism correctly, F37 may be displayed.

What the F37 Error Code Means

The F37 code specifically points to the Auto Open Dry (AOD) door-opening mechanism.

Possible areas involved include:

  • Auto Open Dry motor
  • Door opener mechanism
  • Motor power supply
  • Wiring harness
  • Motor connector
  • Main PCB output
  • Auto Open Dry activation or control

The code does not automatically mean that the motor itself must be replaced.

The important diagnostic question is:

Is the Auto Open Dry motor receiving the required voltage when the dishwasher commands the door opener to move?

That distinction separates a motor/mechanical problem from a wiring or control problem.

What Is Auto Open Dry?

The Auto Open Dry feature is designed to improve drying performance.

When the dishwasher reaches the appropriate stage, the system can automatically “pop” the door open, allowing moisture and humid air to escape from the dishwasher.

The basic sequence is:

Drying stage
→ Main control commands Auto Open Dry
→ Door opener motor operates
→ Door is partially opened
→ Moist air can escape

If the opener does not respond correctly when commanded, the dishwasher can detect a problem with the AOD system and display F37.

Common Causes

Possible causes of F37 include:

  • Failed Auto Open Dry motor
  • Door opener motor unable to move
  • No 15 VDC supply to the motor
  • Loose motor connector
  • Damaged wiring harness
  • Open electrical connection
  • Auto Open Dry system not activated correctly
  • Main PCB not supplying the required voltage
  • Mechanical problem preventing normal opener movement

The direct troubleshooting procedure focuses primarily on determining whether 15 VDC reaches the opener motorwhen it should operate.

Check the Auto Open Dry Function in Test Mode

LG’s first published troubleshooting instruction is:

Check motor function in Test Mode.

This allows the Auto Open Dry mechanism to be commanded independently so its operation can be observed.

The goal is to determine whether:

  • The opener activates
  • The motor runs
  • The lever moves
  • The door-opening mechanism responds
  • The control supplies voltage during the command

This is much more useful than replacing the motor simply because F37 appeared.

Entering LQC Control Mode

For the models covered by the published procedure, the source provides this Test Mode sequence:

Power + 1 Hour + Downloaded — press for 3 seconds

This enters LQC Control Mode.

The source specifically identifies this procedure for:

Models with Auto Open Dry

Because LG dishwasher control panels and service modes vary by model, do not assume this button combination applies to every dishwasher.

Use the exact model number when entering diagnostic mode.

Activate Auto Open Dry in Test Mode

After entering the appropriate control mode, the source gives the following command:

Auto — press for 3 seconds

This activates:

AOD (Auto Open Dry) On/Off.

The technician can then observe whether the opener responds correctly.

If the opener does not move, the next step is to determine whether the motor is receiving power.

Check Voltage at the Auto Open Dry Motor

The direct source provides a specific voltage test.

When the Auto Opener opens or closes, measure voltage between:

BK — Black wire

and

BN — Brown wire

Expected voltage:

15 VDC

This measurement is one of the most important diagnostic checks for F37.

When Should 15 VDC Be Present?

The source specifies that the voltage should be checked when the Auto Open Dry lever is programmed to be opened, and during opener movement when it opens or closes.

Therefore, measuring the connector while the system is idle may not provide useful information.

The system must be commanded into the appropriate operating state.

The diagnostic logic is:

AOD commanded ON
→ Check BK-to-BN voltage
→ Expected approximately 15 VDC

What happens next determines the direction of diagnosis.

If 15 VDC Is Not Present

If the expected voltage is missing, do not immediately replace the opener motor.

The source gives a specific troubleshooting sequence:

  1. Confirm that the opener has been activated correctly.
  2. Inspect the wire harness for damage or loose connections.
  3. Check voltage output at the Main PCB.
  4. If voltage is still absent, the Main PCB becomes the likely failure.

This is an important distinction because a perfectly functional opener motor cannot operate without its power supply.

Check Auto Open Dry Activation

Before diagnosing an electrical failure, confirm that the Auto Open Dry system is actually being commanded to operate.

If the opener has not been activated correctly in Test Mode, absence of motor movement does not prove a failure.

The correct sequence is:

Activate AOD → Command opener → Measure voltage → Observe motor

Skipping the activation step could lead to an incorrect diagnosis.

Inspect the Wiring Harness

If the opener is activated but voltage is missing, inspect the wiring between the motor and control.

Look for:

  • Loose connectors
  • Connector not fully seated
  • Broken wires
  • Damaged insulation
  • Pinched wiring
  • Corrosion
  • Moisture
  • Backed-out terminals
  • Burned or overheated connections

A harness fault can interrupt the 15 VDC supply and make a functional motor appear defective.

Check the Main PCB Output

If the harness and connectors are intact, check the voltage output from the Main PCB.

The purpose is to determine where the 15 VDC is being lost.

For example:

15 VDC at Main PCB but not at motor
→ Wiring / connector problem becomes more likely.

No expected voltage at Main PCB while AOD is correctly commanded
→ Main PCB becomes a stronger suspect.

The direct troubleshooting procedure states that if there is still no voltage after the activation and harness checks, the Main PCB likely needs replacement.

If 15 VDC Is Present but the Motor Does Not Move

This creates a very different diagnostic result.

According to the direct source:

If voltage is present but the motor does not move, the Door Opener motor is faulty and should be replaced.

The logic is:

AOD commanded
→ 15 VDC reaches motor
→ Motor does not move
→ Door Opener motor failure becomes the primary diagnosis

This is much stronger evidence of a failed motor than F37 alone.

Electrical Fault vs. Motor Fault

F37 diagnosis can therefore be divided into two main paths.

No 15 VDC at motor

Investigate:

AOD activation → Connector → Wiring harness → Main PCB output

15 VDC present but motor does not move

Investigate:

Door Opener motor / mechanism

This simple distinction prevents unnecessary replacement of the opener when the actual problem is upstream in the electrical circuit.

Check the Mechanical Door Opener

Although the published troubleshooting procedure focuses on voltage and motor operation, the opener mechanism should also be observed during testing.

Check whether:

  • Lever attempts to move
  • Mechanism binds
  • Door opener is physically obstructed
  • Motor makes noise without producing normal movement
  • Door responds normally to the opener

An electrical command can be correct while mechanical movement is still abnormal.

Do not force the Auto Open Dry mechanism manually if its construction or service procedure is unclear.

F37 and Drying Performance

Because Auto Open Dry is designed to enhance drying performance, an F37 condition can interfere with the normal drying process.

If the door does not automatically open when expected:

  • Moist air may remain inside longer
  • Drying performance may be reduced
  • Dishes may remain wetter than expected

However, poor drying alone does not prove an F37 fault.

Many conditions can affect dishwasher drying. F37 specifically indicates a detected problem involving the Auto Open Dry motor system.

Why the Exact Model Number Matters

Not every LG dishwasher uses the same Auto Open Dry system or control-panel procedure.

The direct source specifically directs technicians to use the appropriate test mode for the specific model.

Therefore, before entering Test Mode or identifying wiring:

Confirm the complete dishwasher model number.

Model differences may affect:

  • Test Mode entry procedure
  • Control buttons
  • Connector location
  • Wiring
  • Door opener design
  • Main PCB connections

Do not assume that a Test Mode sequence from one model applies universally.

Can You Clear the F37 Code?

Power cycling may temporarily remove the displayed code, but:

Code Cleared ≠ Auto Open Dry System Repaired

If the dishwasher again commands the opener and the expected operation does not occur, F37 may return.

A persistent F37 requires determining whether:

  • The opener is correctly activated
  • 15 VDC reaches the motor
  • Wiring is intact
  • Main PCB supplies the expected voltage
  • Door opener motor actually moves

Repeated resets do not repair a failed opener motor, wiring fault, or PCB output problem.

F37 Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

F37 displayed
→ Confirm dishwasher has Auto Open Dry
→ Confirm exact model number
→ Enter the appropriate Test Mode
→ Activate AOD
→ Observe Door Opener operation
→ Measure BK-to-BN voltage during opening/closing
→ Expect approximately 15 VDC
→ If voltage is missing, inspect harness and Main PCB output
→ If 15 VDC is present but motor does not move, diagnose the Door Opener motor

This closely follows the direct troubleshooting procedure.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • F37 repeatedly returns
  • Auto Open Dry does not operate
  • Test Mode is required
  • Internal connectors need inspection
  • 15 VDC needs to be measured
  • Main PCB output needs testing
  • Door Opener motor receives voltage but does not move
  • Internal wiring requires diagnosis

Electrical measurements should be performed carefully with the correct model-specific service information.

Key Point

F37 means Auto Open Dry Motor Error.

The code concerns the motorized mechanism that automatically opens the dishwasher door to enhance drying performance.

The most useful diagnostic test is:

Command Auto Open Dry → Measure Black-to-Brown wires → Expect 15 VDC

Then:

No 15 VDC
→ Check AOD activation → Wiring harness → Main PCB output

15 VDC present but motor does not move
→ Door Opener motor is faulty according to the direct troubleshooting procedure.

Do not replace the Auto Open Dry motor based on F37 alone. First verify that the opener is being commanded correctly and receiving the required voltage.

The FE error code indicates that the LG dishwasher has detected an overfill condition.

LG identifies FE as:

Over Fill Error

The immediate condition is:

Too much water has been supplied to the dishwasher.

When FE occurs, the dishwasher activates the drain pump to pump out the excess water.

What the FE Error Code Means

During normal operation, the dishwasher must control how much water enters the tub.

If the system determines that too much water has been supplied, it can stop normal operation, display FE, and activate the drain pump as a protective response.

The problem can involve:

  • Water inlet valve
  • Household water pressure
  • Flow meter
  • Flow-meter signal circuit
  • Wiring or connectors
  • Main PCB

FE does not automatically mean that the inlet valve has failed.

The diagnostic goal is to determine why the dishwasher is receiving or detecting too much water.

Common Causes

The direct troubleshooting information identifies several important causes:

  • Water inlet valve allowing too much water into the tub
  • Water inlet valve mechanically leaking
  • Water pressure below the required range
  • Excessively high household water pressure
  • Grit or debris inside the inlet valve
  • Flow meter incorrectly measuring incoming water
  • Flow-meter circuit problem
  • Main PCB continuously supplying voltage to the inlet valve

These causes can produce similar overfill symptoms but require very different repairs.

Why the Drain Pump Runs During FE

A dishwasher displaying FE may appear to be continuously draining.

This can actually be part of the dishwasher’s protective response.

The source specifically states that the:

Drain pump will turn on to pump out the water during this error code.

The sequence can therefore be:

Excessive water detected
→ FE displayed
→ Normal cycle interrupted
→ Drain pump activated
→ Excess water pumped out

For this reason, a running drain pump during FE does not automatically indicate a defective drain pump.

Check the Household Water Pressure

One of the first diagnostic checks should be the water pressure supplied to the dishwasher.

The source specifies an acceptable range of:

20–120 PSI

Water pressure outside this range can contribute to FE.

This means both low and excessive water pressure can create problems.

Water Pressure Below 20 PSI

It may seem counterintuitive that low water pressure could contribute to an overfill error.

However, the source explains that the inlet valve can leak when the supplied water pressure is too low.

Therefore:

Low supply pressure
→ Inlet valve may not operate/seal correctly
→ Water can continue entering
→ Dishwasher detects excessive water
→ FE appears

If pressure is below approximately 20 PSI, the household plumbing supply should be investigated before replacing dishwasher components.

Water Pressure Above 120 PSI

Excessively high water pressure can also cause FE.

The source specifically states that pressure above approximately 120 PSI can cause an FE error on an LG dishwasher.

A pressure gauge should be used when excessive household pressure is suspected.

If the pressure is above the specified range, the underlying problem is with the plumbing supply rather than necessarily with the dishwasher.

A plumber may be required to correct excessive household water pressure.

Check for Grit in the Water Inlet Valve

The source also identifies grit inside the inlet valve as a possible reason for leakage.

This can be especially relevant after:

  • New construction
  • Plumbing repairs
  • Pipe replacement
  • Recent water-system work

Small particles entering the valve can interfere with its ability to close completely.

The result can be:

Debris enters valve
→ Valve does not seal completely
→ Water continues entering tub
→ Water level becomes excessive
→ FE appears

If FE started soon after plumbing work, this possibility deserves particular attention.

Check Whether Water Continues Entering the Dishwasher

Observe what happens when the dishwasher should no longer be filling.

If water continues entering, the next question is:

Is the inlet valve mechanically stuck open, or is the Main PCB still supplying voltage to it?

This distinction is critical.

A mechanically leaking valve and a control board continuously energizing the valve can create nearly identical symptoms.

Mechanical Valve Failure vs. Control Failure

A useful diagnostic distinction is:

Water continues entering with no voltage supplied to valve
→ Mechanical inlet-valve problem becomes more likely.

Water continues entering because voltage remains supplied to valve
→ Control circuit / Main PCB becomes more likely.

The direct source specifically instructs technicians to determine whether the Main PCB is supplying voltage to the water valve when the dishwasher is not supposed to be filling.

Check the Water Inlet Valve Resistance

The source provides two different inlet-valve specifications because LG dishwashers can use different valve designs.

For an older 120 VAC water valve:

Approximately 1.1 kΩ

For a newer 8 VDC water valve:

Approximately 25 Ω

The source gives an example measurement of:

24.4 Ω

for an 8 VDC valve, indicating that the valve coil in that example was electrically good.

Why the Valve Type Matters

Do not compare every LG dishwasher inlet valve against the same resistance specification.

Depending on the dishwasher design, the valve may be:

Older design:
120 VAC → approximately 1.1 kΩ

or

Newer design:
8 VDC → approximately 25 Ω

Using the wrong specification could cause a functional valve to be incorrectly diagnosed as defective.

Always identify the exact dishwasher model and valve design before interpreting resistance measurements.

A Good Resistance Reading Does Not Prove the Valve Is Good

Resistance testing evaluates the electrical coil.

It does not necessarily prove that the valve is mechanically sealing correctly.

For example:

Coil resistance normal
+
Debris prevents valve from closing

can still result in water leaking into the dishwasher.

Therefore, inlet-valve diagnosis should consider both:

  • Electrical operation
  • Mechanical water control

This distinction is particularly important with FE.

Check the Main PCB

The Main PCB controls the inlet valve during normal filling.

The source instructs technicians to determine whether the board continues sending voltage to the valve when the dishwasher should not be filling.

If the Main PCB continuously energizes the valve, water may continue entering even though the valve itself is responding correctly to the electrical command.

The source’s published solution for this condition is:

Replace Main PCB.

However, board replacement should follow confirmation that unwanted voltage is actually being supplied.

Check the Flow Meter

Another major part of FE diagnosis is the water flow meter.

The flow meter helps the dishwasher determine how much water has entered.

If it does not accurately detect incoming water volume, the control may receive incorrect information about the filling process.

This can contribute to an overfill condition or incorrect FE detection.

Flow Meter Resistance Specifications

The direct source provides specific flow-meter resistance values:

Orange → Blue: approximately 9 kΩ ±10%

Orange → Purple: approximately 20 kΩ ±10%

These measurements provide a way to evaluate the flow-meter circuit.

A reading significantly outside the expected range may indicate a problem requiring further diagnosis.

Check the Flow Meter Signal Voltage

The source also provides a voltage test for the flow-meter signal.

Measure between:

Purple — Ground

and

Orange — Signal

Expected value:

Approximately 5 VDC

The source provides an example measurement of:

4.93 VDC

and identifies this as a good reading.

What If the 5 VDC Signal Is Missing?

According to the direct troubleshooting information, if approximately 5 VDC is not measured on this circuit, the Main PCB is considered defective.

This gives FE diagnosis another useful branch:

Flow-meter resistance abnormal
→ Investigate flow meter / circuit.

Expected 5 VDC supply missing
→ Main PCB becomes the primary direction of diagnosis.

Again, the exact model and wiring diagram should be confirmed before making electrical measurements.

Why the Flow Meter Matters

The flow meter and inlet valve perform different jobs.

The water inlet valve controls whether water can enter.

The flow meter provides information about the volume of incoming water.

The Main PCB uses system information to control the filling process.

Conceptually:

Main PCB commands fill
→ Inlet valve opens
→ Water enters
→ Flow meter monitors incoming water
→ Control determines when sufficient water has entered
→ Valve closes

A failure anywhere in this chain can contribute to FE.

FE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

FE displayed
→ Observe whether dishwasher is overfilling
→ Expect drain pump to activate as protection
→ Check household water pressure
→ Verify approximately 20–120 PSI
→ Consider recent construction or plumbing work
→ Inspect inlet valve for mechanical leakage/debris
→ Identify valve type
→ Check valve coil resistance
→ Determine whether PCB supplies voltage when filling should be OFF
→ Check flow-meter resistance
→ Check approximately 5 VDC flow-meter signal supply
→ Inspect wiring and connectors
→ Diagnose Main PCB only after confirming control-side failure

This separates plumbing, mechanical, sensing, and electronic causes.

Can You Clear the FE Code?

A power reset may remove FE temporarily, but:

Code Cleared ≠ Overfill Problem Repaired

If excessive water continues entering the dishwasher, FE is likely to return.

More importantly, repeatedly operating a dishwasher with an unresolved overfill condition can increase the risk of water leakage.

The underlying cause should therefore be identified rather than repeatedly resetting the appliance.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • FE repeatedly returns
  • Dishwasher continues filling unexpectedly
  • Drain pump repeatedly runs because of overfilling
  • Household pressure needs to be accurately measured
  • Inlet valve resistance needs testing
  • Valve voltage needs to be checked
  • Flow-meter resistance needs testing
  • 5 VDC signal voltage needs to be measured
  • Main PCB output requires diagnosis

If the dishwasher is actively overfilling or leaking, stop the cycle and shut off the dishwasher’s water supply until the problem is corrected.

Key Point

FE means Over Fill Error.

The dishwasher has detected that too much water has been supplied, and the drain pump activates to remove the excess water.

The main diagnostic path is:

Water Pressure → Inlet Valve → Main PCB Valve Control → Flow Meter → Flow-Meter Signal

Important specifications from the direct source:

  • Water pressure: 20–120 PSI
  • Older 120 VAC inlet valve: approximately 1.1 kΩ
  • Newer 8 VDC inlet valve: approximately 25 Ω
  • Flow meter Orange → Blue: 9 kΩ ±10%
  • Flow meter Orange → Purple: 20 kΩ ±10%
  • Purple Ground → Orange Signal: approximately 5 VDC

Do not replace the inlet valve based on FE alone. First determine whether the dishwasher is overfilling because of water pressure, mechanical valve leakage, incorrect valve control, or inaccurate flow-meter information.

The HE error code indicates that the LG dishwasher has detected an abnormal condition in the water heating system.

LG identifies HE as:

Heater Error Code

The code can appear when:

  • The water is not being heated properly, or
  • The temperature inside the dishwasher tub becomes excessively high — above approximately 194°F.

Because HE can represent either insufficient heating or an overheating condition, the code should not automatically be interpreted as a failed heating element.

What the HE Error Code Means

During a wash cycle, the dishwasher monitors water temperature and expects the heating system to operate within a defined range.

The system depends on several components working together:

  • Incoming hot water supply
  • Thermistor
  • Heating element
  • Heater wiring
  • Electrical connections
  • Main PCB

If the dishwasher cannot heat the water as expected, or if the sensed temperature becomes abnormally high, the control can stop normal operation and display HE.

A useful diagnostic sequence is:

Water Temperature → Wiring → Thermistor → Heater → Heater Voltage → Main PCB

Common Causes

Possible causes of HE include:

  • Incoming water temperature too low
  • Failed or out-of-range thermistor
  • Open heating element
  • Heating element resistance outside specification
  • Loose electrical connection
  • Damaged wiring harness
  • Heater not receiving 120 VAC
  • Main PCB not supplying heater power
  • Abnormal temperature sensing
  • Actual overheating condition

The error code alone does not determine which of these conditions is responsible.

Check the Wiring and Connections

LG’s first troubleshooting step is to:

Check wire connection.

Inspect the heating and temperature-sensing circuits for:

  • Loose connectors
  • Partially seated connectors
  • Broken wires
  • Damaged insulation
  • Burned terminals
  • Corrosion
  • Moisture
  • Backed-out connector pins

A poor electrical connection can interrupt either the heater circuit or the thermistor signal.

This means a dishwasher can display HE even when the heater and thermistor themselves are functional.

Check the Incoming Water Temperature

The source next instructs technicians to check the water temperature supplied to the dishwasher.

If the incoming hot water temperature is below approximately:

120°F

the hot-water supply should be adjusted.

This is an important check because the dishwasher’s heating system does not operate independently of the household hot-water supply.

If the water enters the dishwasher significantly colder than expected, the appliance may have difficulty reaching the required wash temperature within the expected time.

Why Incoming Water Temperature Matters

The dishwasher’s heating system is designed to work with an appropriate hot-water supply.

Conceptually:

Incoming water too cold
→ Dishwasher begins heating
→ Expected temperature rise takes too long or is not achieved
→ Control detects abnormal heating condition
→ HE may appear

Therefore, an HE code does not always mean that an internal dishwasher component needs replacement.

The household hot-water supply should be checked first.

Check the Thermistor

The thermistor is one of the most important components in HE diagnosis.

It monitors temperature and provides information to the electronic control.

LG specifies a thermistor resistance range of approximately:

8 kΩ–44 kΩ

depending on temperature.

Because a thermistor changes resistance as temperature changes, there is no single correct resistance value for every temperature.

Thermistor Reference at 70°F

The direct source provides a particularly useful reference value:

Approximately 12.7 kΩ at 70°F.

This provides a more meaningful diagnostic reference than simply knowing the broad 8–44 kΩ operating range.

For example:

Thermistor around 70°F
→ Expected resistance approximately 12.7 kΩ

If the reading is significantly outside the appropriate range, the thermistor may be defective.

How the Thermistor Affects HE

The dishwasher does not directly “know” the water temperature.

Instead:

Water temperature changes
→ Thermistor resistance changes
→ Main PCB reads thermistor signal
→ Control calculates temperature

If the thermistor reports an incorrect value, the control may believe that:

  • Water is too cold
  • Water is overheating
  • Temperature is not changing correctly

This makes thermistor diagnosis important for both sides of the HE condition — insufficient heating and excessive temperature.

What If the Thermistor Is Out of Range?

The source states that if thermistor resistance is outside the expected range, the thermistor should be replaced.

Before replacement, however, make sure the measurement is not being affected by:

  • Incorrect test temperature
  • Loose connector
  • Damaged wiring
  • Poor terminal contact

The diagnostic principle remains:

Error code ≠ automatically failed component

Confirm the electrical condition before replacing the part.

Check the Heater Resistance

The next major component is the dishwasher heater.

LG specifies:

Heater resistance: approximately 11–13 Ω.

Resistance outside this range can indicate a problem with the heating element.

The heater should be electrically tested with power removed from the appliance.

What Heater Resistance Can Tell You

A resistance test checks the electrical condition of the heating element.

For example:

Approximately 11–13 Ω
→ Heater resistance is within the published range.

Open circuit / no continuity
→ Heating element is electrically open.

Resistance significantly outside specification
→ Heater requires further diagnosis and may need replacement.

However, correct heater resistance does not prove that the heater is actually receiving power during operation.

That requires a separate voltage test.

Check Voltage to the Heater

If the heater resistance is correct, the next question is:

Is the dishwasher actually supplying power to the heater?

The direct source specifies:

120 VAC during the heater test.

The detailed section further specifies:

120 VAC ±15% during heater test.

This test separates a heater failure from a heater-control problem.

Heater Resistance vs. Heater Voltage

These tests answer two different questions.

Resistance test

Checks whether the heater itself has the expected electrical resistance.

Expected:

11–13 Ω

Voltage test

Checks whether the dishwasher supplies the heater with operating power.

Expected during heater test:

120 VAC ±15%.

Both tests can be necessary.

Heater Has Correct Resistance but Does Not Heat

Suppose the heater measures approximately 11–13 Ω, but the dishwasher still does not heat.

The next step is to measure heater voltage during the appropriate heater test.

If the expected voltage is absent, the heater itself may not be the problem.

Diagnosis should move toward:

  • Wiring
  • Connectors
  • Main PCB heater output

This prevents unnecessary replacement of a functional heating element.

No 120 VAC at the Heater

The direct source gives a specific conclusion for this condition.

If the heater does not receive approximately 120 VAC during the heater test, the published procedure directs replacement of the Main PCB.

Before condemning the board, the wiring and connections between the PCB and heater should also be verified.

The diagnostic logic is:

Heater resistance correct
→ Heater commanded ON
→ No 120 VAC at heater
→ Check wiring/connections
→ Confirm Main PCB output

The source’s board example is from model LDF5545ST, so exact board layout and test points should be verified for the dishwasher being serviced.

HE Can Also Mean Overheating

One of the most important details about HE is that it does not only mean “dishwasher isn’t heating.”

The source explicitly states that HE can occur when the temperature in the tub becomes overheated to above:

194°F.

This makes the thermistor particularly important.

If temperature information reaching the Main PCB is incorrect, the control may not interpret heating conditions correctly.

An actual overheating condition also requires prompt diagnosis rather than repeated resets.

Why 194°F Matters

The source defines over 194°F as the overheating side of the HE condition.

Therefore, HE should be understood as a broader heating-system error:

Insufficient heating

or

Abnormally high tub temperature

This is more accurate than describing HE simply as a “bad heater” code.

HE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

HE displayed
→ Check wiring and connections
→ Check incoming hot-water temperature
→ Confirm approximately 120°F or higher as specified by the source
→ Measure thermistor resistance
→ Expect 8–44 kΩ depending on temperature
→ Use 12.7 kΩ at 70°F as a reference
→ Measure heater resistance
→ Expect 11–13 Ω
→ Run appropriate heater test
→ Check heater voltage
→ Expect 120 VAC ±15%
→ If heater voltage is missing, diagnose wiring/Main PCB output

This follows the troubleshooting order given by the direct source.

Can You Clear the HE Code?

Power cycling may temporarily remove HE from the display.

However:

Code Cleared ≠ Heating Problem Repaired

If the dishwasher again detects:

  • Insufficient heating
  • Abnormal thermistor information
  • Heater circuit failure
  • Excessive tub temperature

the HE code can return.

Repeatedly resetting the dishwasher is not a substitute for identifying the underlying heating-system problem.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • HE repeatedly returns
  • Dishwasher does not heat properly
  • Dishwasher appears to be overheating
  • Thermistor resistance needs testing
  • Heater resistance needs testing
  • Internal wiring requires inspection
  • Heater voltage must be measured
  • Main PCB output requires diagnosis

Testing 120 VAC inside the dishwasher involves a shock hazard and should be performed by a qualified technician.

If the dishwasher appears to be severely overheating, discontinue use until the cause has been identified.

Key Point

HE means Heater Error Code.

It can indicate either:

Water is not being heated properly

or

Tub temperature has exceeded approximately 194°F.

Important specifications from the direct source are:

  • Incoming hot water: approximately 120°F or higher
  • Thermistor: 8–44 kΩ, depending on temperature
  • Thermistor reference: 12.7 kΩ at 70°F
  • Heater: 11–13 Ω
  • Heater supply during test: 120 VAC ±15%

The correct diagnostic path is:

Wiring → Water Temperature → Thermistor → Heater → Heater Voltage → Main PCB

Do not replace the heater based on HE alone. A thermistor problem, inadequate incoming hot water, wiring fault, missing heater voltage, or control-board problem can produce the same error.

The IE error code indicates that the LG dishwasher has detected a problem with the water inlet system.

LG identifies IE as:

Water Inlet Error

The code can occur when the dishwasher is not receiving the expected water supply or when the Main PCB does not detect incoming water through the expected signal from the flow meter.

What the IE Error Code Means

During the fill portion of a cycle, the dishwasher expects water to enter the appliance and the flow meter to report that incoming water to the electronic control.

According to the direct troubleshooting information, the Main PCB monitors a 5 VDC pulse from the flow meter to determine that water is entering the dishwasher.

The basic sequence is:

Main PCB commands fill
→ Water inlet valve opens
→ Water enters dishwasher
→ Flow meter detects water movement
→ 5 VDC pulse signal is sent to Main PCB

If the expected fill condition or flow-meter signal is not detected, IE can appear.

Common Causes

Possible causes include:

  • Water supply valve not fully open
  • Low household water pressure
  • Excessively high water pressure
  • Kinked water supply hose
  • Pinched or crushed inlet hose
  • Blocked inlet valve filter screen
  • Calcium or mineral buildup
  • Failed water inlet valve
  • Flow meter water wheel not turning
  • Failed flow meter
  • Missing 5 VDC flow-meter supply
  • Missing flow-meter pulse signal
  • Loose electrical connector
  • Damaged wiring harness
  • Main PCB problem

The correct diagnosis depends heavily on whether water is actually entering the dishwasher.

Check the Water Supply Valve First

Start with the simplest external check.

Verify that the water supply valve under the sink is fully open.

A partially closed valve can restrict flow enough that the dishwasher cannot fill normally.

Before opening the dishwasher or testing electrical components, confirm:

  • Water supply is turned on
  • Shutoff valve is completely open
  • Household water service is operating normally

This can resolve an IE condition without any dishwasher repair.

Check Water Pressure

The source specifies that dishwasher water pressure should be:

20 PSI or greater.

Insufficient pressure can prevent the dishwasher from receiving water at the expected rate.

If IE repeatedly occurs even though the supply valve is open, water pressure should be considered.

The source also instructs technicians to consider whether pressure is too low or excessively high, so the household plumbing supply should be evaluated when the fill system otherwise appears normal.

Check the Water Supply Hose

Inspect the inlet hose between the household water supply and dishwasher.

Look for:

  • Kinks
  • Pinched sections
  • Crushing
  • Sharp bends
  • Improper routing behind the dishwasher

The direct source specifically identifies a kinked, pinched, or crushed water supply hose as a cause of IE.

A restriction can allow some water through while still reducing the flow enough to cause a fill problem.

Check the Inlet Valve Filter Screen

Turn off the water supply before disconnecting the inlet hose.

Inspect the filter screen at the water inlet valve for:

  • Sediment
  • Debris
  • Rust particles
  • Calcium buildup
  • Mineral deposits

A blocked screen restricts water before it enters the dishwasher.

The source specifically notes that if significant calcium buildup is present, a water softener system may need to be considered.

Determine Whether Water Is Entering

This is the most useful branching point in IE diagnosis.

Ask:

Is water actually entering the dishwasher?

If yes, focus more heavily on:

Flow Meter → 5 VDC Supply → Pulse Signal → Wiring → Main PCB

If no, focus more heavily on:

Water Supply → Hose → Inlet Valve → Valve Voltage → Wiring → Main PCB

This prevents unnecessary testing of components unrelated to the actual symptom.

If Water Is Entering: Check the Flow Meter

If water physically enters the dishwasher but IE still appears, inspect the flow meter.

The source instructs technicians to inspect the flow-meter water wheel and confirm that it turns freely.

If the wheel does not turn freely, the published procedure calls for replacement of the flow meter.

A mechanically stuck flow meter can allow water into the dishwasher while preventing the control from recognizing that water is flowing.

Why the Flow Meter Matters

The flow meter provides feedback to the Main PCB about incoming water.

Therefore, these two conditions are very different:

No water enters dishwasher
→ Actual fill problem.

Water enters but Main PCB does not detect flow
→ Flow-meter/signal problem becomes more likely.

In the second situation, replacing the inlet valve simply because IE is displayed could result in a misdiagnosis.

Check the 5 VDC Flow Meter Supply

If the flow-meter wheel moves normally, verify that the Main PCB supplies approximately:

5 VDC

to the flow meter.

The published diagnostic sequence is:

Check 5 VDC at Main PCB
→ If present, check voltage at flow meter.

This helps identify whether the problem is originating at the board or somewhere in the wiring between the board and flow meter.

5 VDC at PCB but Not at Flow Meter

If approximately 5 VDC is available at the Main PCB but does not reach the flow meter, the source directs diagnosis toward the:

Wiring harness.

Inspect for:

  • Broken wire
  • Loose connector
  • Damaged terminal
  • Backed-out pin
  • Corrosion
  • Pinched harness
  • Poor electrical contact

A harness fault can make a functioning flow meter appear defective.

Check the Flow Meter Pulse Signal

If the flow meter receives its expected 5 VDC supply, the next step is to determine whether it sends the appropriate 5 VDC pulse signal back to the Main PCB while water flows.

Conceptually:

5 VDC supplied to flow meter
→ Water wheel rotates
→ Flow meter generates pulse signal
→ Main PCB detects incoming water

If this feedback is missing, the dishwasher may display IE even though water is physically entering the machine.

If No Water Enters: Check the Inlet Valve

If no water is entering the dishwasher, move to the water inlet valve circuit.

The source recommends checking both:

  • Valve resistance
  • Voltage supplied to the valve

This separates an electrically failed valve from a control or wiring problem.

LG Dishwasher Inlet Valve Types

An important model-specific detail is that LG dishwashers can use different inlet-valve designs.

According to the direct source:

120 VAC valve:
approximately 900–1300 Ω

8–12 VDC valve:
approximately 20–30 Ω

Do not apply one resistance specification to every LG dishwasher.

Always identify the exact model and valve type first.

Check Valve Voltage From the Main PCB

If the dishwasher should be filling but the inlet valve does not open, check whether the Main PCB supplies the appropriate voltage.

The source’s diagnostic logic is:

No voltage at Main PCB output
→ Main PCB becomes the primary suspect.

Voltage present at Main PCB
→ Check whether that voltage reaches the inlet valve.

Voltage at PCB but not at valve
→ Suspect wiring harness.

Correct voltage reaches valve but valve does not open
→ Replace the inlet valve.

This is a much more reliable diagnosis than replacing the valve based only on IE.

Check Valve Resistance From the Main PCB

The source also recommends checking resistance through the circuit from the Main PCB.

If an open circuit is measured from the board, measure resistance directly at the inlet valve.

This produces another useful distinction:

Open from PCB + valve resistance normal
→ Harness problem becomes more likely.

Valve itself outside specification
→ Valve becomes the stronger suspect.

This method can help identify an open harness without unnecessarily replacing the valve.

Inspect the Harness Connections

The source specifically recommends checking harness connections at:

  • Main PCB
  • Inlet valve
  • Flow meter

Inspect connectors for:

  • Loose fit
  • Corrosion
  • Moisture
  • Bent terminals
  • Backed-out pins
  • Damaged wiring
  • Heat damage

Because IE depends on both valve control and flow-meter feedback, several wiring circuits can produce the same displayed code.

IE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

IE displayed
→ Confirm water supply valve is fully open
→ Verify at least 20 PSI water pressure
→ Check inlet hose for kinks or crushing
→ Inspect inlet screen for debris/calcium
→ Determine whether water enters dishwasher

If water does enter:

Flow-meter wheel → 5 VDC supply → Wiring → 5 VDC pulse signal → Main PCB

If water does not enter:

Inlet valve → Valve resistance → PCB voltage → Valve voltage → Wiring → Main PCB

This branching approach closely follows the direct troubleshooting procedure.

Can You Clear the IE Code?

A reset may temporarily clear IE, especially if the water-supply problem was temporary.

However:

Code Cleared ≠ Fill Problem Repaired

If the dishwasher still cannot receive or correctly detect incoming water, IE is likely to return during the next fill attempt.

Before repeatedly resetting the appliance, check the external water supply, hose, and valve.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • IE repeatedly returns
  • Water supply and hose are normal
  • Dishwasher receives no water
  • Water enters but IE still appears
  • Flow meter requires testing
  • 5 VDC supply or pulse signal needs measurement
  • Inlet valve resistance needs testing
  • Valve operating voltage needs measurement
  • Internal wiring requires diagnosis
  • Main PCB failure is suspected

Electrical testing should be performed using the correct specifications for the exact dishwasher model.

Key Point

IE means Water Inlet Error.

Start with the simple external causes:

Water Supply → Pressure → Inlet Hose → Filter Screen

Then determine whether water actually enters the dishwasher.

Water enters:
→ Diagnose Flow Meter → 5 VDC supply/pulse → Wiring → Main PCB

No water enters:
→ Diagnose Inlet Valve → Voltage → Resistance → Wiring → Main PCB

Important specifications from the direct source:

  • Water pressure: 20 PSI or greater
  • Flow meter system: 5 VDC pulse
  • 120 VAC inlet valve: 900–1300 Ω
  • 8–12 VDC inlet valve: 20–30 Ω

Do not replace the inlet valve based on IE alone. The same code can result from a simple closed water valve, restricted hose, blocked screen, flow-meter problem, wiring fault, or Main PCB failure.

The L0 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates the current rinse aid dispenser level while the dishwasher is in the rinse aid adjustment mode.

LG dishwashers with this control system provide five rinse aid settings:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

The dishwasher is programmed at the factory to L2.

What the L0 Message Means

L0 = Rinse Aid Level 0

This is a setting, not a diagnostic fault.

When the rinse aid level adjustment mode is selected, the dishwasher displays the currently selected dispenser setting.

At L0, the rinse aid dispenser is set to the lowest end of the available adjustment range.

Seeing L0 does not indicate a failure of the:

  • Main control board
  • Water inlet system
  • Drain pump
  • Circulation pump
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensor
  • Rinse aid dispenser

Before troubleshooting the dishwasher, first recognize that L0 is simply part of the rinse aid configuration system.

Is L0 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source explicitly identifies this display as:

Rinse Aid Level (Not an Error).

This distinction is important because L0 can easily look like an error code on the dishwasher display.

It can also be misread as:

LO

with the letter O.

The correct designation on the referenced LG information is:

L0 — L followed by the number zero.

Rinse Aid Levels L0–L4

The dispenser has five adjustment levels:

L0
L1
L2
L3
L4

The factory setting is:

L2.

These settings allow the amount of rinse aid used by the dishwasher to be adjusted according to water conditions and washing/drying results.

What Rinse Aid Does

Rinse aid helps water drain more effectively from dishes and surfaces during the final portion of the cycle.

The rinse aid setting can therefore affect:

  • Water spotting
  • Streaking
  • Drying performance
  • Mineral deposits
  • Overall appearance of dishes after washing

The correct setting depends partly on local water conditions.

When to Increase the Rinse Aid Setting

LG specifically recommends using a higher setting when you have hard water and notice calcium buildup on dishes.

A higher setting may therefore be useful when you notice:

  • Calcium deposits
  • Mineral residue
  • Persistent water spots
  • Poor drying associated with water remaining on dishes

Rather than immediately assuming the dishwasher has a drying-system problem, check the rinse aid setting first.

What Happens If the Setting Is Too Low?

According to the source, setting the rinse aid control too low can contribute to:

  • Spotting
  • Streaking
  • Poor drying performance

This is particularly useful diagnostically.

A dishwasher may appear to have a drying problem even though the heater, fan, and other drying components are operating normally.

The actual issue may simply be insufficient rinse aid for the household’s water conditions.

What Happens If the Setting Is Too High?

More rinse aid is not always better.

LG warns that setting the rinse aid control too high can cause:

Foaming

which can then contribute to:

Poor wash performance.

Therefore, the goal is not automatically to select L4.

The correct setting is the one that provides good drying and reduces spotting without creating excessive foaming.

How to Check the Current Rinse Aid Setting

For the control system described by the direct source, press:

Dual Zone + Power simultaneously

to check the current rinse aid setting.

The display will indicate the selected level.

For example:

L0, L1, L2, L3, or L4

Because control panels can differ between LG dishwasher models, verify the owner’s manual for the exact model before assuming that the same button combination applies universally.

How to Change the Rinse Aid Level

Once the rinse aid setting mode is active, the referenced procedure uses:

Delay Start

to change the setting.

Each press changes the dispenser setting by one step through the available range:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

Select the desired level according to water conditions and dishwasher performance.

How to Save the New Setting

After selecting the desired rinse aid level, press:

Start

to save the setting.

The basic procedure from the referenced information is therefore:

Dual Zone + Power
→ Check current setting
→ Delay Start
→ Select L0–L4
→ Start
→ Save setting

Again, use the exact model’s owner’s manual if the control panel differs.

Choosing the Correct Rinse Aid Level

There is no single best setting for every household.

A useful approach is to evaluate the results after several cycles.

If you notice:

Calcium buildup / hard-water deposits
→ Consider increasing the setting.

Spotting, streaking, or poor drying
→ The setting may be too low.

Excessive foaming / reduced wash performance
→ The setting may be too high.

Make adjustments gradually rather than immediately selecting the maximum setting.

L0 and Poor Drying

If the dishwasher is set to L0 and dishes remain wet, the rinse aid setting should be considered before diagnosing a heating or drying-system failure.

A useful sequence is:

Poor drying
→ Check rinse aid level
→ Check rinse aid supply
→ Consider water hardness
→ Adjust rinse aid setting if appropriate
→ Observe drying performance over subsequent cycles

If poor drying continues after the rinse aid system has been ruled out, then other drying-system causes can be investigated.

L0 vs. an Actual Error Code

L0 belongs on an LG Dishwasher Error Codes page because owners can easily mistake it for a fault message.

But it should be clearly identified as a normal setting indicator.

L0

→ Rinse aid setting
→ Not an error
→ Normally does not require repair

Actual diagnostic error

→ Dishwasher has detected an abnormal operating condition
→ Troubleshooting may be required

This distinction can prevent unnecessary service or component replacement.

Does L0 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

If L0 appears while checking or adjusting the rinse aid setting, the dishwasher is behaving normally.

Professional diagnosis is not required simply because L0 is displayed.

Further diagnosis may be appropriate only when the dishwasher has an additional problem, such as persistent poor drying or poor wash performance that remains after detergent, rinse aid, water conditions, and settings have been checked.

Key Point

L0 means Rinse Aid Level 0. It is not an error code.

LG provides five rinse aid settings:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

with L2 as the factory setting.

The source also notes:

Setting too low
→ Spotting, streaking and poor drying

Setting too high
→ Foaming and poor wash performance

Hard water / calcium buildup
→ A higher setting may be appropriate.

For the control procedure shown by the source:

Dual Zone + Power → Delay Start to adjust → Start to save.

Most importantly, do not diagnose L0 as a dishwasher failure—it is a rinse aid setting indicator, not a fault.

The L1 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s rinse aid dispenser is set to Level 1.

LG dishwashers using this adjustment system provide five rinse aid levels:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

The factory default setting is L2.

What the L1 Message Means

L1 = Rinse Aid Level 1

This is a dishwasher setting rather than a diagnostic fault.

When the rinse aid adjustment mode is active, the display shows the currently selected dispenser level. If L1 appears, the dispenser has been adjusted to Level 1.

Seeing L1 does not normally indicate a problem with the:

  • Main control board
  • Water inlet system
  • Drain system
  • Heating system
  • Circulation pump
  • Sensors
  • Rinse aid dispenser

No component should be replaced simply because L1 appears.

Is L1 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source identifies L1 under:

Rinse Aid Level (Not an Error)

and explains that the displayed value indicates the current rinse aid level.

This distinction is particularly important on an error-code guide because a display such as L1 can easily look like a diagnostic code.

In normal operation:

L1 displayed during rinse aid adjustment
→ Level 1 selected
→ Normal setting
→ No repair required

Understanding Rinse Aid Levels L0–L4

The rinse aid dispenser provides five adjustment levels:

L0 — Level 0
L1 — Level 1
L2 — Level 2
L3 — Level 3
L4 — Level 4

LG sets the dishwasher to L2 at the factory.

L1 is therefore one step below the factory setting.

The adjustment allows the dishwasher’s rinse aid use to be matched more closely to household water conditions and washing results.

What Rinse Aid Does

Rinse aid helps water move off dishes and other surfaces more effectively during the final rinse and drying process.

Proper rinse aid use can help reduce:

  • Water spots
  • Streaks
  • Mineral residue
  • Water remaining on dishes

It can also contribute to better overall drying performance.

Because water hardness varies between homes, the ideal rinse aid setting does not have to be the same for every dishwasher installation.

What Does Level 1 Mean?

L1 represents a relatively low rinse aid setting.

Because the factory setting is L2, an L1 setting means the dishwasher has been adjusted below its default rinse aid level.

That is not inherently a problem.

L1 may work well when the water conditions and dishwasher results do not require as much rinse aid.

The important consideration is how the dishes look and dry after a completed cycle.

When L1 May Be Too Low

LG warns that setting the rinse aid control too low can contribute to:

  • Spotting
  • Streaking
  • Poor drying performance

If the dishwasher is currently set to L1 and you consistently notice these symptoms, the rinse aid setting may need to be increased.

A useful sequence is:

L1 selected
→ Run normal wash cycles
→ Observe dishes after drying
→ Look for spots, streaks, or excessive remaining water
→ Increase rinse aid setting if appropriate

This should be considered before assuming that poor drying is caused by a failed dishwasher component.

Hard Water and L1

Water hardness is particularly important when choosing the rinse aid setting.

LG specifically recommends adjusting the setting higher when the household has hard water and calcium buildup is visible on dishes.

Therefore, L1 may not provide enough rinse aid in some hard-water conditions.

Possible signs include:

  • White mineral deposits
  • Calcium buildup
  • Persistent spotting
  • Streaking
  • Poor drying

In that situation, increasing the setting one level and observing the results can be more appropriate than immediately diagnosing a dishwasher malfunction.

Higher Is Not Always Better

The rinse aid setting should not automatically be changed to L4.

LG also warns that setting the rinse aid control too high can cause foaming, which can result in poor wash performance.

The goal is therefore to find an appropriate balance:

Too little rinse aid
→ Spotting / streaking / poor drying

Appropriate rinse aid level
→ Better drying and fewer deposits

Too much rinse aid
→ Possible foaming / poor wash performance

Adjustment should be based on actual washing results and water conditions.

How to Check the Current Rinse Aid Level

For the control system described by the direct source, press:

Dual Zone + Power simultaneously

to check the current rinse aid dispenser setting.

The dishwasher can then display one of the five available settings:

L0, L1, L2, L3, or L4

If L1 appears during this procedure, it simply confirms that the dispenser is currently set to Level 1.

How to Change L1 to Another Level

Once the rinse aid adjustment mode is active, press:

Delay Start

to change the rinse aid dispenser setting.

Each press changes the setting by one step through the available range:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

Select the level appropriate for the household’s water conditions and dishwasher performance.

How to Save the New Setting

Once the desired level has been selected, press:

Start

to save the rinse aid dispenser setting.

The procedure described by the source is therefore:

Dual Zone + Power
→ Display current setting
→ Delay Start
→ Select L0–L4
→ Start
→ Save

Control layouts can vary by dishwasher model, so model-specific instructions should be checked if the dishwasher uses a different panel.

Should You Change L1 Back to L2?

Not necessarily.

Although L2 is the factory setting, that does not mean every dishwasher must remain at L2.

If:

  • Dishes dry well
  • Spotting is minimal
  • Streaking is not present
  • Mineral deposits are not developing

then L1 may be perfectly suitable for the household’s water conditions.

If poor drying, spotting, or calcium buildup occurs, increasing the setting may be appropriate.

L1 and Poor Drying

If a dishwasher set to L1 has poor drying performance, check the rinse aid system before assuming that the heater or another drying component has failed.

A practical sequence is:

Poor drying
→ Check rinse aid supply
→ Check current rinse aid level
→ Note water hardness
→ Adjust setting if necessary
→ Run additional cycles
→ Evaluate results

Only if the problem continues should other drying-system causes become a stronger diagnostic direction.

L1 vs. L0

Both messages refer to the same rinse aid adjustment system.

L0
→ Rinse Aid Level 0

L1
→ Rinse Aid Level 1

Neither is an error code.

L1 simply represents one step higher than L0 within the five-level adjustment range.

L1 vs. an Actual Error Code

L1 belongs in an LG Dishwasher Error Codes guide because users may see it on the display and search for its meaning.

But it should be clearly separated from actual faults:

L1
→ Normal rinse aid setting
→ Level 1 selected
→ No repair normally required

Diagnostic error code
→ Dishwasher has detected an abnormal condition
→ Troubleshooting may be required

This distinction prevents unnecessary diagnosis and component replacement.

Does L1 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

If L1 appears while checking or changing the rinse aid setting, the dishwasher is operating as intended.

Professional service may only become relevant when there is a separate persistent problem—such as poor drying or poor washing—that remains after detergent, rinse aid, settings, and water conditions have been checked.

Key Point

L1 means Rinse Aid Level 1. It is not an error code.

LG provides five rinse aid settings:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

and L2 is the factory default.

If the rinse aid setting is too low, LG notes that it can contribute to spotting, streaking, and poor drying. With hard water and calcium buildup, a higher setting may be appropriate. Setting it too high can cause foaming and poor wash performance.

For the control procedure described by the source:

Dual Zone + Power → Delay Start to adjust → Start to save.

L1 by itself does not indicate that the dishwasher needs repair.

The L2 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s rinse aid dispenser is currently set to Level 2.

LG provides five rinse aid adjustment levels:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

The dishwasher is programmed at the factory for:

L2 — Rinse Aid Level 2

This means that seeing L2 while checking or adjusting the rinse aid setting normally indicates the factory-default setting, not a dishwasher malfunction.

What the L2 Message Means

L2 = Rinse Aid Level 2

The message appears when the rinse aid level setting mode is selected.

It does not indicate a failure of the:

  • Rinse aid dispenser
  • Heating system
  • Drain pump
  • Circulation pump
  • Water inlet system
  • Sensors
  • Main control board

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, L2 itself does not require troubleshooting or repair.

Is L2 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source specifically classifies this display as:

Rinse Aid Level (Not an Error).

L2 simply communicates the current rinse aid dispenser setting.

This distinction is useful because messages such as L0, L1, L2, L3, and L4 can look like diagnostic codes when they appear on the dishwasher display.

L2 Is the Factory Default Setting

The most important characteristic of L2 is that it is the factory setting.

LG states that the dishwasher is programmed at the factory for a rinse aid dispenser level of:

2

Therefore:

L2 displayed
→ Rinse aid adjustment mode is active
→ Level 2 is selected
→ Factory-default rinse aid setting
→ No error detected

There is normally no reason to change L2 simply because it appears on the display.

Understanding the L0–L4 Rinse Aid Levels

The dispenser provides five available settings:

L0 — Level 0
L1 — Level 1
L2 — Level 2 — Factory default
L3 — Level 3
L4 — Level 4

The setting can be adjusted from the dishwasher’s control panel.

The appropriate setting depends on factors such as:

  • Water hardness
  • Calcium buildup
  • Spotting
  • Streaking
  • Drying results
  • Foaming

The factory L2 setting is a useful starting point, but LG allows it to be adjusted when water conditions or washing results make another level more appropriate.

What Rinse Aid Does

Rinse aid helps improve the way water leaves dishes and surfaces during the final portion of the wash cycle.

An appropriate rinse aid setting can help reduce:

  • Water spots
  • Streaks
  • Mineral residue
  • Poor drying results

This is why the rinse aid setting may need adjustment even when the dishwasher itself is functioning correctly.

Should You Leave the Dishwasher at L2?

If the dishwasher produces good washing and drying results, L2 can normally be left unchanged.

Because L2 is the factory setting, there is no need to increase or decrease it unless the results suggest that an adjustment would be beneficial.

Consider changing the setting when you consistently notice problems such as:

  • Calcium deposits
  • Spotting
  • Streaking
  • Poor drying
  • Excessive foaming

The setting should be adjusted according to actual results rather than simply selecting the highest available level.

Hard Water and the L2 Setting

LG specifically recommends adjusting the rinse aid setting higher when you have hard water and notice calcium buildup on dishes.

Therefore, if L2 is currently selected but calcium deposits remain visible, increasing the setting may help.

For example:

L2 selected
→ Hard water present
→ Calcium buildup remains on dishes
→ Consider a higher rinse aid setting

This does not mean that L2 is incorrect. It means the household’s water conditions may require a different setting.

When the Rinse Aid Setting Is Too Low

The direct source warns that setting the rinse aid control too low can contribute to:

  • Spotting
  • Streaking
  • Poor drying performance

If these symptoms occur while the dishwasher is set to L2, rinse aid level should be considered before assuming that the dishwasher has a heating or drying-system failure.

The ideal setting can vary depending on local water conditions.

When the Rinse Aid Setting Is Too High

Increasing the rinse aid setting is not always the solution.

LG also states that setting the control too high can cause:

Foaming

which can lead to:

Poor wash performance.

The goal is therefore to find the appropriate balance.

Setting too low
→ Spotting, streaking, poor drying

Appropriate setting
→ Better drying and fewer deposits

Setting too high
→ Foaming and poor wash performance

How to Check the Current Rinse Aid Setting

For the control system described by the direct source, press:

Dual Zone + Power simultaneously

to check the current rinse aid setting.

The display will show one of the available levels:

L0, L1, L2, L3, or L4

If L2 appears, the dispenser is currently set to Level 2.

How to Change the L2 Setting

Once the rinse aid adjustment mode is active, press:

Delay Start

to change the setting.

Each press moves the dispenser setting one step through:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

Choose the level appropriate for the dishwasher’s actual washing and drying results.

How to Save the Rinse Aid Setting

After selecting the desired rinse aid level, press:

Start

to save the setting.

The procedure described by the direct source is therefore:

Dual Zone + Power
→ Check current rinse aid level
→ Delay Start
→ Select L0–L4
→ Start
→ Save

Because LG control panels can vary by model, use the owner’s manual for the exact dishwasher if its controls differ from this procedure.

L2 and Poor Drying

If dishes remain wet while the dishwasher is set to L2, do not immediately assume that the heating system has failed.

First consider:

Rinse aid available?
→ Current setting L2?
→ Hard water present?
→ Spotting or calcium buildup?
→ Adjust setting if appropriate
→ Evaluate subsequent cycles

If drying remains poor after rinse aid, detergent, loading, settings, and water conditions have been checked, other drying-system causes can then be investigated.

L2 vs. an Actual Dishwasher Error

L2 should be clearly separated from actual diagnostic fault codes.

L2

→ Rinse Aid Level 2
→ Factory-default setting
→ Not an error
→ Normally no repair required

Actual error code

→ Dishwasher detected an abnormal operating condition
→ Troubleshooting may be required

This distinction can prevent unnecessary service calls and unnecessary component replacement.

Does L2 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

If L2 appears while checking or adjusting the rinse aid dispenser, the dishwasher is operating as intended.

Professional diagnosis may only be appropriate if there is a separate persistent washing or drying problem that remains after rinse aid level, rinse aid supply, detergent, water conditions, and other basic factors have been checked.

Key Point

L2 means Rinse Aid Level 2. It is not an error code.

LG provides five adjustment levels:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

and L2 is the factory-default rinse aid setting.

LG also notes:

Hard water + calcium buildup
→ Consider a higher setting

Setting too low
→ Spotting, streaking, and poor drying

Setting too high
→ Foaming and poor wash performance.

For the control system described by the source:

Dual Zone + Power → Delay Start to adjust → Start to save

If L2 appears by itself, there is normally nothing to repair.

The L3 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s rinse aid dispenser is currently set to Level 3.

LG provides five rinse aid adjustment levels:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

The factory-default setting is L2, which means L3 is one step above the standard factory setting.

What the L3 Message Means

L3 = Rinse Aid Level 3

This is a dishwasher setting, not a diagnostic fault.

When the rinse aid level adjustment mode is selected, the dishwasher displays the currently selected level. If L3 appears, the dispenser is configured to use the Level 3 setting.

L3 does not indicate a failure of the dishwasher’s:

  • Heating system
  • Drain system
  • Water inlet system
  • Circulation pump
  • Sensors
  • Main control board
  • Rinse aid dispenser

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, L3 does not require repair.

Is L3 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source explicitly classifies the rinse aid level display as:

Rinse Aid Level (Not an Error).

Messages such as L0, L1, L2, L3, and L4 may look like diagnostic codes on the display, but they represent rinse aid settings.

For L3:

L3 displayed
→ Rinse aid setting mode selected
→ Level 3 currently selected
→ Normal setting
→ No fault indicated

Understanding the L0–L4 Rinse Aid Levels

The dispenser has five available adjustment levels:

L0 — Level 0
L1 — Level 1
L2 — Level 2 — Factory default
L3 — Level 3
L4 — Level 4

LG programs the dishwasher at the factory for Level 2.

Therefore, L3 represents a setting one step higher than the factory default.

The level can be adjusted to better match household water conditions and the washing and drying results you are getting.

Why Use the L3 Setting?

L3 may be useful when the standard L2 setting does not provide satisfactory results.

LG specifically recommends adjusting the rinse aid setting higher when:

You have hard water and notice calcium buildup on dishes.

For example:

L2 factory setting
→ Calcium deposits remain
→ Increase rinse aid level
→ L3 may provide better results

The appropriate level should be determined by actual dishwashing results rather than automatically selecting the highest setting.

Hard Water and L3

Hard water contains minerals that can leave deposits behind as water evaporates.

Possible signs include:

  • Calcium buildup
  • Mineral residue
  • Visible water spots
  • Streaking
  • Unsatisfactory drying

If these symptoms remain at L2, moving to L3 may be appropriate.

LG’s direct guidance is to use a higher rinse aid setting when hard water causes calcium buildup.

When the Rinse Aid Setting Is Too Low

LG states that setting the rinse aid control too low can contribute to:

  • Spotting
  • Streaking
  • Poor drying performance

If these symptoms improve after moving from L2 to L3, the higher setting may be more suitable for the household’s water conditions.

This is worth checking before assuming that poor drying is caused by a heater or another dishwasher component.

When the Rinse Aid Setting Is Too High

More rinse aid is not always better.

The direct source warns that setting the control too high can cause:

Foaming

which can result in:

Poor wash performance.

Therefore, L3 should not automatically be increased to L4 simply because a higher setting is available.

The goal is to use enough rinse aid to improve drying and reduce deposits without creating excessive foaming.

L3 vs. the Factory L2 Setting

The difference is straightforward:

L2
→ Factory-default rinse aid setting

L3
→ One adjustment level above the factory default

Neither setting represents an error.

If L2 produces good results, there may be no reason to change it.

If L2 produces spotting, streaking, calcium deposits, or poor drying—particularly with hard water—L3 may be worth trying.

Should You Leave the Dishwasher at L3?

If the dishwasher produces good results at L3, there is normally no reason to change the setting simply because it differs from the factory default.

L3 may be appropriate when:

  • Dishes dry well
  • Spotting is reduced
  • Streaking is minimal
  • Calcium buildup is reduced
  • Excessive foaming does not occur

The best setting is the one that works properly with the household’s water conditions.

How to Check the Current Rinse Aid Setting

For the control system described by the direct source, press:

Dual Zone + Power simultaneously

to check the current rinse aid setting.

The display will indicate the selected level:

L0, L1, L2, L3, or L4

If L3 appears during this procedure, the rinse aid dispenser is currently set to Level 3.

How to Change the L3 Setting

Once the rinse aid adjustment mode is active, press:

Delay Start

to change the setting.

Each press moves the setting one step through the available range from:

L0 to L4.

You can therefore move away from L3 if washing or drying results suggest that another level would be more appropriate.

How to Save the New Setting

After selecting the desired rinse aid level, press:

Start

to save the setting.

The procedure provided by the source is:

Dual Zone + Power
→ Check current level
→ Delay Start
→ Select L0–L4
→ Start
→ Save setting

Because LG dishwasher control panels can vary, check the owner’s manual for the exact model if its buttons or adjustment procedure differ.

L3 and Poor Drying

If the dishwasher is already set to L3 but dishes still remain wet, avoid immediately increasing the setting to L4.

Instead, consider:

Is rinse aid actually present?
→ Is L3 selected?
→ Are there spots or calcium deposits?
→ Is there evidence of excessive foaming?
→ Are other drying conditions normal?

The rinse aid setting is only one factor affecting dishwasher drying.

If L3 is appropriate and poor drying continues, other causes may need to be investigated.

L3 and Foaming

If wash performance becomes worse after increasing the rinse aid setting, check for excessive foaming.

LG specifically warns that an excessively high rinse aid setting can cause foaming and poor washing performance.

In that situation, reducing the setting may be more appropriate than investigating pumps, motors, or other components.

L3 vs. an Actual Dishwasher Error

L3 should be clearly distinguished from a diagnostic fault.

L3

→ Rinse Aid Level 3
→ One level above factory default
→ Not an error
→ Normally no repair required

Actual dishwasher error code

→ Abnormal operating condition detected
→ Troubleshooting may be required

This distinction helps prevent unnecessary diagnosis or component replacement.

Does L3 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

L3 simply indicates the selected rinse aid level.

If L3 appears while checking or changing the rinse aid setting and the dishwasher otherwise works normally, no professional repair is required.

Further diagnosis may only be appropriate if there is a separate persistent washing or drying problem after rinse aid, detergent, settings, and water conditions have been checked.

Key Point

L3 means Rinse Aid Level 3. It is not an error code.

LG provides five settings:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

with L2 as the factory-default setting. L3 is therefore one step above the factory setting.

LG recommends increasing the setting when hard water causes calcium buildup. It also warns that:

Setting too low
→ Spotting, streaking, poor drying

Setting too high
→ Foaming and poor wash performance.

For the control system described by the source:

Dual Zone + Power → Delay Start to adjust → Start to save

If L3 appears by itself, it normally indicates a rinse aid setting, not a dishwasher malfunction.

The L4 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s rinse aid dispenser is currently set to Level 4, the highest setting in the available adjustment range.

LG provides five rinse aid levels:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

The dishwasher is programmed at the factory for L2, making L4 two levels above the factory-default setting. 

What the L4 Message Means

L4 = Rinse Aid Level 4

This is a dishwasher setting rather than a diagnostic fault.

When the rinse aid adjustment mode is selected, the display shows the currently selected dispenser level. If L4 appears, the rinse aid system is set to the highest available level.

L4 does not by itself indicate a problem with the:

  • Rinse aid dispenser
  • Heating system
  • Water inlet system
  • Drain system
  • Circulation pump
  • Sensors
  • Main control board

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, L4 does not require repair.

Is L4 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source identifies L4 as:

Rinse Aid Level (Not an Error). 

Messages such as L0, L1, L2, L3, and L4 may resemble diagnostic codes when displayed on the control panel, but they represent rinse aid settings.

For L4:

L4 displayed
→ Rinse aid adjustment mode is active
→ Level 4 is selected
→ Maximum rinse aid setting
→ No dishwasher fault indicated

Understanding the L0–L4 Rinse Aid Levels

The available settings are:

L0 — Level 0
L1 — Level 1
L2 — Level 2 — Factory default
L3 — Level 3
L4 — Level 4 — Highest setting

LG programs the dishwasher to L2 at the factory. 

The setting can then be adjusted according to household water conditions and washing or drying results.

What Is Special About L4?

L4 is the highest rinse aid setting available in this adjustment system.

This means it should generally be used when the washing and drying results justify a higher rinse aid setting rather than simply because L4 is the maximum available level.

A higher setting can be useful under some water conditions, but more rinse aid is not always better.

Hard Water and L4

LG recommends using a higher rinse aid setting when you have hard water and notice calcium buildup on dishes. 

Possible signs that a higher setting may be useful include:

  • Calcium deposits
  • Mineral residue
  • Persistent spotting
  • Streaking
  • Unsatisfactory drying

If these symptoms remain at lower settings, increasing the rinse aid level may improve results.

However, adjustment should be based on actual dishwasher performance.

When a Lower Rinse Aid Setting Is Not Enough

The direct source states that setting the rinse aid control too low can contribute to:

  • Spotting
  • Streaking
  • Poor drying performance 

A progression might therefore look like:

Factory L2 setting
→ Persistent hard-water deposits or poor drying
→ Try L3
→ Evaluate several cycles
→ If necessary, consider L4

This is generally more useful than immediately moving from L2 to the maximum setting.

Can L4 Be Too High?

Yes.

This is one of the most important points about the L4 setting.

LG warns that setting the rinse aid control too high can cause foaming, which can result in:

Poor wash performance. 

Therefore:

Maximum setting ≠ Best setting

L4 should be used when appropriate for the household’s water conditions and dishwasher results.

Signs the Rinse Aid Setting May Be Too High

If washing performance becomes worse after increasing the rinse aid setting, consider whether the level may now be excessive.

Possible clues include:

  • Excessive foaming
  • Unexpected suds
  • Reduced wash performance
  • Results becoming worse after increasing the rinse aid level

In this situation, reducing the setting may be more appropriate than diagnosing a pump, motor, or other dishwasher component.

Finding the Right Rinse Aid Balance

The rinse aid setting should balance drying performance against the possibility of excessive rinse aid use.

Setting too low

→ Spotting
→ Streaking
→ Poor drying

Appropriate setting

→ Reduced spotting
→ Better drying
→ Good wash performance

Setting too high

→ Foaming
→ Poor wash performance

L4 is therefore useful when a high setting is actually needed, but it should not automatically be selected for every dishwasher.

L4 vs. the Factory L2 Setting

The difference is straightforward:

L2
→ Factory-default rinse aid setting

L4
→ Highest available rinse aid setting

Neither represents an error code.

If the dishwasher produces good results at L2 or L3, there is no benefit in changing to L4 simply because it is the highest setting.

Should You Leave the Dishwasher at L4?

If the dishwasher produces good results at L4 without excessive foaming, there is normally no reason to change it.

L4 may be appropriate when:

  • Hard water is present
  • Lower settings leave calcium deposits
  • Spotting remains at lower settings
  • Drying improves at L4
  • Excessive foaming does not occur

If foaming or poor wash performance appears, a lower rinse aid setting should be considered.

How to Check the Current Rinse Aid Setting

For the control system described by the direct source, press:

Dual Zone + Power simultaneously

to check the current rinse aid setting. 

The display can show:

L0, L1, L2, L3, or L4

If L4 appears during this procedure, the dispenser is currently set to Level 4.

How to Change the L4 Setting

Once the rinse aid adjustment mode is active, press:

Delay Start

to change the rinse aid level. 

The available adjustment range is:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

If L4 produces excessive foaming or poor wash results, select a lower setting.

How to Save the New Setting

After selecting the desired level, press:

Start

to save the rinse aid setting. 

The procedure described by the source is:

Dual Zone + Power
→ Check current setting
→ Delay Start
→ Select L0–L4
→ Start
→ Save setting

Control panels and procedures can vary by model, so the owner’s manual for the exact dishwasher should be used if its controls differ.

L4 and Poor Drying

If the dishwasher is already at L4 and dishes still do not dry properly, simply increasing rinse aid is no longer an option within this adjustment range.

Instead, check:

  • Rinse aid is actually present
  • Correct detergent is being used
  • Loading allows proper water circulation
  • Water conditions are appropriate
  • There is no excessive foaming
  • The dishwasher’s drying options are being used correctly

If poor drying persists after these factors are ruled out, the problem may involve something other than the rinse aid level.

L4 and Foaming

Because L4 is the maximum setting, foaming deserves particular attention.

If foaming appears after the rinse aid level was increased, reducing the setting may help.

The direct source specifically connects an excessively high rinse aid setting with:

Foaming → Poor wash performance. 

This should be checked before assuming that poor washing is caused by a mechanical failure.

L4 vs. an Actual Dishwasher Error

L4 should be clearly distinguished from a diagnostic fault.

L4

→ Rinse Aid Level 4
→ Highest rinse aid setting
→ Not an error
→ Normally no repair required

Actual dishwasher error code

→ Abnormal operating condition detected
→ Troubleshooting may be required

Including L4 in an error-code guide is still useful because owners may reasonably mistake the display for a fault code.

Does L4 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

If L4 appears while checking or adjusting the rinse aid level, the dishwasher is operating normally.

Professional diagnosis may only be appropriate if there is a separate persistent washing or drying problem after rinse aid, detergent, settings, and water conditions have been checked.

Key Point

L4 means Rinse Aid Level 4. It is not an error code.

LG provides five rinse aid settings:

L0 → L1 → L2 → L3 → L4

with:

L2 = Factory default
L4 = Highest setting. 

LG recommends a higher setting when hard water causes calcium buildup, but also warns:

Setting too low
→ Spotting, streaking, poor drying

Setting too high
→ Foaming and poor wash performance. 

For the control system described by the source:

Dual Zone + Power → Delay Start to adjust → Start to save

Most importantly:

L4 does not mean the dishwasher has failed. It simply means the rinse aid dispenser is set to its highest available level.

The LE error code indicates that the LG dishwasher has detected a problem with the wash motor system.

LG identifies LE as:

Locked Motor Error

The dishwasher’s circulation motor is responsible for driving the pump that circulates water through the spray system during washing.

If the motor cannot rotate correctly or the control cannot confirm proper motor operation, the dishwasher may stop the cycle and display LE.

What the LE Error Code Means

LE does not automatically mean that the wash motor must be replaced.

The fault can involve several parts of the motor system:

  • Wash motor
  • Pump impeller
  • Foreign material restricting rotation
  • Motor windings
  • Hall sensor
  • Motor wiring
  • Electrical connectors
  • Main PCB
  • Motor power/control circuit

The purpose of diagnosis is to determine whether the motor is physically locked, electrically defective, receiving incorrect feedback, or not being properly driven by the control system.

Common Causes

Possible causes of LE include:

  • Foreign object blocking the impeller
  • Impeller unable to rotate freely
  • Locked wash motor
  • Damaged motor windings
  • Motor winding resistance outside specification
  • Hall sensor failure
  • Missing Hall sensor supply voltage
  • Damaged motor wiring
  • Loose electrical connector
  • Main PCB motor-control problem

Because several conditions can produce the same LE code, the motor should not be replaced based on the displayed code alone.

Check the Impeller for a Mechanical Obstruction

One of the first checks is whether the pump impeller can move normally.

Foreign material can enter the pump area and interfere with impeller movement.

Check for debris or objects that may prevent free rotation.

The diagnostic distinction is important:

Impeller mechanically blocked
→ Motor cannot rotate normally
→ Control detects abnormal motor operation
→ LE may appear

Removing the obstruction may resolve the problem without replacing the motor.

Check Whether the Impeller Turns Freely

With the dishwasher safely disconnected from power and the appropriate components accessed, check whether the impeller can rotate.

Look for:

  • Debris
  • Broken material
  • Food particles
  • Foreign objects
  • Mechanical binding
  • Abnormal resistance to rotation

If the impeller cannot turn freely, the mechanical cause should be corrected before electrical diagnosis continues.

Why a Locked Impeller Can Trigger LE

The wash motor is designed to rotate the circulation pump at a controlled speed.

If something physically prevents that movement:

Main PCB commands motor operation
→ Motor attempts to rotate
→ Impeller remains restricted
→ Expected motor movement/feedback is not detected
→ LE is generated

This means LE can result from a mechanical restriction, even when the motor’s electrical windings are still functional.

Check the Wash Motor Windings

If the pump rotates freely, the next step is to evaluate the wash motor electrically.

The direct source specifies checking resistance between the motor phases.

Expected resistance:

Approximately 5–15 Ω between each phase.

The phase-to-phase readings should be evaluated according to the exact motor and model being serviced.

Why All Motor Phases Should Be Checked

A motor can contain multiple windings.

Checking only one pair of terminals may miss an electrical fault in another winding.

The general diagnostic approach is:

Phase 1 → Phase 2
→ Check resistance

Phase 2 → Phase 3
→ Check resistance

Phase 1 → Phase 3
→ Check resistance

The source gives approximately 5–15 Ω as the expected range.

A significantly abnormal or open reading can indicate a motor winding problem.

What an Open Motor Winding Means

If one of the motor winding measurements is open rather than within the expected range, the motor has an electrical fault.

Conceptually:

Impeller moves freely
+
Motor winding open/out of specification
→ Motor itself becomes the primary suspect.

This is much stronger evidence for motor replacement than the LE code by itself.

Check the Hall Sensor

The motor system also uses a Hall sensor to provide information about motor operation.

The Hall sensor allows the electronic control to monitor motor movement.

If this feedback is missing or incorrect, the Main PCB may interpret the condition as abnormal motor operation and display LE.

Therefore:

Motor can be mechanically free
+
Motor windings can be electrically good
+
Hall sensor feedback can still be faulty

This is why Hall sensor diagnosis is important before condemning the motor or Main PCB.

Hall Sensor Resistance

The direct source provides a Hall sensor resistance specification of approximately:

8–12 kΩ

A resistance measurement outside the expected range can indicate a Hall sensor or associated circuit problem.

The exact model and connector configuration should always be confirmed before performing measurements.

Check Hall Sensor Supply Voltage

The Hall sensor also requires an electrical supply from the dishwasher’s control system.

The source specifies approximately:

10–15 VDC

for the Hall sensor supply.

This creates another useful diagnostic branch:

Hall sensor resistance abnormal
→ Sensor becomes suspect.

Hall sensor resistance normal but supply voltage missing
→ Wiring or Main PCB becomes more likely.

Why Hall Sensor Voltage Matters

Replacing a Hall sensor cannot correct a problem if the sensor never receives its required supply voltage.

The diagnostic sequence should therefore separate:

Sensor condition

from

Sensor power supply

and

Sensor wiring

A missing supply voltage should lead to inspection of the harness and control-board output rather than immediate sensor replacement.

Inspect the Motor Wiring Harness

If the mechanical components and motor windings appear normal, inspect the wiring between the motor system and Main PCB.

Look for:

  • Loose connectors
  • Broken wires
  • Damaged insulation
  • Corrosion
  • Moisture
  • Burned terminals
  • Backed-out connector pins
  • Pinched wiring
  • Poor terminal contact

Motor circuits carry both power and feedback information, so a wiring problem can imitate a motor or sensor failure.

Check Connections at the Motor

Pay particular attention to the motor connector.

A connector that appears installed may still have:

  • A loose terminal
  • Poor pin contact
  • Corrosion
  • Heat damage
  • A partially backed-out wire

Disconnect power before inspecting internal connectors.

If wiring damage is found, repair the electrical connection before replacing major components.

Check the Main PCB

If:

  • The impeller moves freely
  • Motor windings test correctly
  • Hall sensor is within specification
  • Wiring and connectors are intact

then diagnosis should move toward the Main PCB and motor-control circuit.

The control board is responsible for operating the wash motor and interpreting motor feedback.

A control problem can therefore produce LE even when the motor assembly itself is functional.

Motor Failure vs. Control Failure

A useful diagnostic distinction is:

Motor mechanically locked
→ Investigate obstruction / pump / motor.

Motor winding resistance abnormal
→ Motor becomes primary suspect.

Hall sensor abnormal
→ Investigate Hall sensor circuit.

Hall sensor supply voltage missing
→ Investigate wiring / Main PCB.

Motor and sensor system test normally but motor is not properly driven
→ Main PCB/control diagnosis becomes more important.

This systematic approach reduces unnecessary component replacement.

LE and Unusual Dishwasher Noise

A dishwasher with LE may sometimes show symptoms before the code appears.

Depending on the failure, these can include:

  • Humming
  • Motor attempting to start
  • Abnormal wash noise
  • Little or no water circulation
  • Spray arms not operating normally
  • Cycle stopping during the wash stage

The exact symptom can help distinguish a mechanical restriction from an electrical or feedback problem.

For example:

Motor hums but circulation does not begin
→ Mechanical restriction deserves attention.

No motor activity at all
→ Power/control/wiring diagnosis becomes more important.

Symptoms should always be combined with electrical testing rather than used alone to identify a failed component.

LE and Poor Washing Performance

Because the wash motor drives water circulation, an LE condition can result in little or no effective spray pressure.

Possible symptoms include:

  • Dishes remain dirty
  • Detergent does not wash away normally
  • Spray arms do not rotate as expected
  • Dishwasher fills but washing action is weak or absent

These symptoms are consistent with a circulation-system problem, but they do not independently prove that the wash motor itself has failed.

Can You Clear the LE Code?

Power cycling may temporarily clear LE from the display.

However:

Code Cleared ≠ Motor Problem Repaired

If the motor remains mechanically restricted, a winding is damaged, Hall sensor feedback is incorrect, or the Main PCB cannot properly operate the motor, LE can return when the dishwasher attempts to circulate water again.

Repeated resets should not replace diagnosis of a persistent LE condition.

LE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

LE displayed
→ Disconnect power
→ Check pump/impeller for foreign material
→ Verify impeller can rotate
→ Check motor windings
→ Expect approximately 5–15 Ω phase-to-phase
→ Check Hall sensor
→ Expect approximately 8–12 kΩ
→ Check Hall sensor supply
→ Expect approximately 10–15 VDC
→ Inspect connectors and wiring harness
→ Evaluate Main PCB/motor control if the motor system tests normally

This separates mechanical, motor, sensor, wiring, and control faults.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • LE repeatedly returns
  • Wash motor does not operate
  • Impeller appears mechanically locked
  • Dishwasher fills but does not circulate water
  • Motor winding resistance needs testing
  • Hall sensor requires testing
  • Hall sensor voltage needs measurement
  • Internal wiring requires inspection
  • Main PCB motor output requires diagnosis

Electrical measurements should be performed using the service information for the exact LG dishwasher model.

Key Point

LE means Locked Motor Error.

It indicates that the dishwasher has detected abnormal operation of the wash/circulation motor system.

The main diagnostic path is:

Impeller / Mechanical Obstruction → Motor Windings → Hall Sensor → Wiring → Main PCB

Important values from the direct troubleshooting information include:

  • Wash motor windings: approximately 5–15 Ω between phases
  • Hall sensor: approximately 8–12 kΩ
  • Hall sensor supply: approximately 10–15 VDC

Do not replace the wash motor based on LE alone. First determine whether the problem is a mechanical obstruction, motor winding fault, Hall sensor problem, wiring failure, or control-board issue.

The nE error code indicates a problem with the LG dishwasher’s Vario Motor system.

LG identifies nE as:

Vario Motor Error

The Vario Motor is the water spray diverter motor. The error occurs when the dishwasher does not detect that this motor is turning correctly.

What the nE Error Code Means

The Vario Motor controls the dishwasher’s water-diverter mechanism.

Instead of simply circulating water, this system helps direct wash water through different portions of the spray system as required by the selected wash operation.

When the control commands the diverter to move, it expects the Vario Motor and its position-detection system to respond.

If proper movement is not detected, the dishwasher can display nE.

The affected system can include:

  • Vario Motor
  • Water spray diverter
  • Vario micro switch
  • Motor wiring
  • Switch wiring
  • Electrical connectors
  • Main PCB
  • Mechanical diverter mechanism

Therefore:

nE ≠ Automatically Failed Vario Motor

The motor, switch, wiring, power supply, and mechanical system should be checked before replacing components.

What Does the Vario Motor Do?

The Vario Motor operates the dishwasher’s water spray diverter.

Conceptually:

Main PCB commands diverter movement
→ Vario Motor turns
→ Diverter changes position
→ Water is directed through the appropriate spray path
→ Vario switch provides position information

If this sequence does not occur correctly, the control may determine that the Vario Motor is not turning and generate nE.

Common Causes

Possible causes of nE include:

  • Failed Vario Motor
  • Vario Motor winding outside specification
  • No 120 VAC supplied to the motor
  • Failed Vario micro switch
  • Missing 5 VDC supply to the switch
  • Open switch when it should be activated
  • Loose connector
  • Damaged wiring harness
  • Main PCB failure
  • Mechanical obstruction preventing diverter movement

The direct troubleshooting procedure primarily separates motor, switch, wiring, and Main PCB faults.

Check the Vario Motor Circuit

The direct source instructs technicians to activate the dishwasher’s Test Mode and check the Vario Motor circuit.

Expected motor supply:

120 VAC

This measurement determines whether the Main PCB is providing operating power when the motor is commanded to run.

If 120 VAC Is Missing

If the Vario Motor should be operating but the expected 120 VAC is not supplied, the source directs diagnosis toward the Main PCB.

Before replacing the board, the wiring and connectors should also be inspected so that an open harness or poor connection is not mistaken for a PCB failure.

A useful diagnostic sequence is:

Vario Motor commanded ON
→ Check for 120 VAC
→ Voltage missing
→ Check wiring/connectors
→ Verify PCB output
→ Main PCB becomes suspect if output is absent

Check the Vario Motor Resistance

The source provides a specific winding resistance range for the Vario Motor:

2.7–4.0 kΩ

If the motor winding measures outside this range, the published troubleshooting procedure calls for replacement of the Vario Motor.

This provides a direct electrical test of the motor rather than relying on the nE code alone.

What the Motor Resistance Test Tells You

Resistance testing evaluates the electrical condition of the motor winding.

Approximately 2.7–4.0 kΩ
→ Winding is within the published resistance range.

Open circuit or significantly outside specification
→ Vario Motor becomes the primary suspect.

However, a correct resistance measurement does not prove that the motor is actually receiving power or that the mechanical diverter can move normally.

That is why both voltage and resistance testing are useful.

Motor Resistance vs. Motor Voltage

These two measurements answer different diagnostic questions.

Resistance: 2.7–4.0 kΩ

Answers:

Is the Vario Motor winding electrically within specification?

Voltage: 120 VAC

Answers:

Is the dishwasher actually supplying operating power to the Vario Motor?

A motor can have correct resistance but still fail to operate because the required voltage is missing.

Likewise, the motor can receive voltage but have a defective winding or mechanical problem.

Check the Vario Micro Switch

The Vario system also uses a micro switch to indicate diverter position.

The direct source instructs technicians to check the switch for:

  • Correct 5 VDC
  • Correct continuity when activated

This switch is important because the dishwasher needs feedback indicating that the diverter mechanism has reached the expected position.

How the Vario Switch Works

The source describes the Vario switch as a simple:

Open / Closed switch

Its voltage behavior is:

Switch open → 5 VDC

Switch closed → 0 VDC

This gives technicians a straightforward way to determine whether the switch state is changing correctly.

Why 5 VDC Matters

The Main PCB supplies the voltage used by the Vario switch circuit.

If the expected 5 VDC is not supplied, the direct troubleshooting procedure points toward the Main PCB.

The logic is:

Switch circuit open
→ Approximately 5 VDC expected

If the board does not provide the required supply voltage, replacing the switch itself would not correct the underlying problem.

Check Vario Switch Continuity

The source also instructs technicians to verify switch continuity.

When the Vario micro switch is activated, it should close correctly.

If the switch remains open when activated, the published solution is to replace the micro switch.

This helps distinguish a switch failure from a motor or control-board problem.

Switch Voltage vs. Switch Continuity

Both tests can be useful.

Voltage test

Open switch → 5 VDC
Closed switch → 0 VDC

Continuity test

Switch activated → Switch should close

If the switch does not electrically change state when mechanically activated, the switch itself becomes a strong suspect.

Model-Specific Wiring Example

The direct source provides a wiring example from the newer-style XD-series:

LDF5545

For the Vario switch example, measurements are taken at:

NA8 — natural-color 8-pin connector at the Main PCB

between:

Orange wire → Brown wire

This is a model-specific wiring example, not a universal LG dishwasher pinout.

Do not assume that every LG dishwasher uses the same connector, wire colors, or PCB layout.

Vario Motor Wiring Example

The source also provides an LDF5545 example for the Vario Motor.

In that example:

RED wire = Neutral

GRAY wire = L1 / 120 VAC

Again, these wire colors are specifically presented as an LDF5545 example.

Always verify the wiring diagram for the exact dishwasher model before performing electrical measurements.

Why the Exact Model Number Matters

The core diagnostic principles can remain similar across models, but details can differ, including:

  • Connector locations
  • Wire colors
  • PCB terminals
  • Test Mode procedure
  • Diverter design
  • Vario Motor configuration

Therefore, the exact model number should be confirmed before applying model-specific wiring information.

The LDF5545 examples should not be treated as universal specifications for every LG dishwasher.

Check for Mechanical Restriction

A Vario Motor can also be prevented from turning by a physical restriction in the diverter system.

Inspect the mechanism for anything that may prevent normal movement.

A mechanically restricted diverter can produce the same basic condition:

PCB commands motor movement
→ Motor/diverter cannot rotate normally
→ Expected position is not detected
→ nE appears

This possibility should be considered before replacing electronic components.

Foreign Objects Can Jam the Diverter

The direct page includes field reports describing foreign material jamming the diverter impeller, resulting in the Vario Motor being unable to turn and an nE code appearing. Another report describes a loose rubber gasket interfering with disc movement. These are user-submitted observations rather than the primary LG troubleshooting procedure, so they should be treated as possible field scenarios rather than universal causes.

This reinforces the value of checking mechanical movement before replacing the Vario Motor or Main PCB.

nE vs. LE

These two codes should not be confused.

nE — Vario Motor Error

Related to:

Water spray diverter / Vario Motor

LE — Locked Motor Error

Related to a different motor system.

Therefore, seeing a motor-related error does not mean the same component should be diagnosed for both codes.

For nE, the focus is specifically the Vario Motor and diverter-position system.

Can You Clear the nE Code?

Power cycling may temporarily remove nE from the display.

However:

Code Cleared ≠ Vario System Repaired

If the dishwasher again attempts to reposition the water diverter and cannot detect proper Vario Motor operation, nE can return.

Repeated resets will not correct:

  • Failed motor winding
  • Failed micro switch
  • Missing motor voltage
  • Missing switch supply voltage
  • Wiring failure
  • Mechanical obstruction
  • Main PCB failure

Persistent nE should therefore be diagnosed at the Vario system.

nE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

nE displayed
→ Confirm exact dishwasher model
→ Inspect Vario/diverter mechanism for restriction
→ Activate appropriate Test Mode
→ Check Vario Motor operation
→ Check motor resistance: 2.7–4.0 kΩ
→ Check motor supply: 120 VAC
→ Check Vario micro switch
→ Open switch: 5 VDC
→ Closed switch: 0 VDC
→ Verify continuity when switch is activated
→ Inspect wiring/connectors
→ Diagnose Main PCB if required

This separates mechanical, motor, switch, wiring, and control-board failures.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • nE repeatedly returns
  • Dishwasher does not distribute spray water normally
  • Diverter mechanism appears stuck
  • Vario Motor resistance requires testing
  • 120 VAC motor supply needs measurement
  • Vario switch requires continuity testing
  • 5 VDC switch circuit needs measurement
  • Internal wiring requires inspection
  • Main PCB output requires diagnosis

Testing live 120 VAC inside a dishwasher involves an electrical shock hazard and should be performed by a qualified technician.

Key Point

nE means Vario Motor Error.

The dishwasher is not detecting proper operation of the Vario Motor / water spray diverter motor.

Important specifications from the direct source are:

  • Vario Motor supply: 120 VAC
  • Vario Motor winding: 2.7–4.0 kΩ
  • Vario micro switch supply: 5 VDC
  • Switch open: 5 VDC
  • Switch closed: 0 VDC

The main diagnostic path is:

Mechanical Diverter → Vario Motor → 120 VAC Supply → Micro Switch → 5 VDC / Continuity → Wiring → Main PCB

Do not replace the Vario Motor based on nE alone. First determine whether the motor is physically able to turn, its winding is within specification, it receives the required voltage, and the Vario switch correctly reports diverter position.

The OE error code indicates that the LG dishwasher has detected a drainage problem.

LG identifies OE as:

Drain Error

The condition occurs when the:

Main PCB does not detect that water has drained from the tub.

This does not automatically mean that the drain pump has failed. A restriction in the drain system, installation problem, clogged filter, garbage disposal connection, wiring fault, or control problem can produce the same error.

What the OE Error Code Means

During the drain portion of the cycle, the dishwasher expects water to leave the tub within the required operating conditions.

If the control does not detect proper drainage, it can stop normal operation and display OE.

The affected system may include:

  • Dishwasher filters
  • Drain hose
  • Air gap
  • Garbage disposal connection
  • Sump
  • Check valve
  • Float box assembly on applicable models
  • Drain pump
  • Drain pump impeller
  • Pump wiring
  • Electrical connectors
  • Main PCB

The correct diagnostic approach is therefore to check the entire drain path before replacing the drain pump.

Common Causes

The direct troubleshooting information identifies several possible causes:

  • Clogged drain hose
  • Kinked drain hose
  • Frozen drain hose
  • Incorrect drain hose installation
  • Clogged air gap
  • Blocked garbage disposal connection
  • Garbage disposal knockout plug not removed
  • Clogged dishwasher filters
  • Debris or mineral buildup in the float box
  • Sticking float switches
  • Obstruction in the sump
  • Obstruction in the check valve
  • Broken or stripped drain pump impeller
  • Mechanically locked drain pump
  • Open drain pump winding
  • No voltage supplied to the drain pump
  • Damaged wiring harness
  • Main PCB failure

Because many of these problems require no pump replacement, external drainage checks should come first.

Check the Dishwasher Filters First

A clogged filter is one of the simpler causes of an OE condition.

Remove and inspect the dishwasher’s accessible filter system.

Look for:

  • Food debris
  • Grease
  • Labels or paper
  • Small particles
  • Mineral deposits
  • Other material restricting water flow

The direct source specifically instructs:

Clean filters when they are clogged.

After cleaning, make sure the filters are reinstalled correctly.

Check the Drain Hose

Inspect the dishwasher drain hose carefully.

The source identifies three important conditions:

  • Clogged
  • Kinked
  • Frozen

Any of these can prevent the drain pump from moving water out of the dishwasher efficiently.

A pump may run normally while the dishwasher still displays OE because the water has nowhere to go.

Check Drain Hose Installation

The drain hose must also be installed and routed correctly.

The direct troubleshooting instructions specifically say to follow the installation procedure in the owner’s manual and verify that the hose is correctly positioned through the holders underneath the dishwasher.

Incorrect routing can interfere with normal drainage.

Always use the installation requirements for the exact dishwasher model rather than assuming every drain-hose configuration is identical.

Check the Garbage Disposal Connection

If the dishwasher drain hose connects to a garbage disposal, check the disposal connection.

A particularly common installation issue occurs when a new garbage disposal has been installed.

The dishwasher connection contains a knockout plug that must be removed before the dishwasher can drain through the disposal.

The source specifically instructs technicians to verify that this plug has been removed.

A useful clue is:

Dishwasher drained normally before disposal replacement
→ New disposal installed
→ OE appears
→ Check dishwasher knockout plug first.

Check the Air Gap

If the dishwasher uses an air gap at the sink, inspect it for debris.

Remove the air-gap cap and check for an obstruction.

A clogged air gap can restrict the drain path even when the dishwasher’s drain pump itself is working correctly.

The direct source specifically lists:

Air gap or disposal clogged

as a cause of OE.

Check the Sump and Check Valve

If the external drain path is clear, inspect the dishwasher’s internal drainage path where appropriate.

The source specifically identifies possible:

  • Sump obstructions
  • Check-valve obstructions
  • Broken drain pump impeller
  • Stripped drain pump impeller

An obstruction can prevent water from reaching or leaving the pump correctly.

A damaged impeller may allow the motor to run without producing sufficient pumping action.

Check the Float Box Assembly

Some LG dishwasher designs use a float box assembly.

For applicable models, inspect the float box for:

  • Debris
  • Mineral buildup
  • Float switches sticking

The source notes that significant debris or mineral accumulation can cause the float switches to stick. Its recommendation when this condition is found is to replace the float box.

This check applies only to models equipped with that assembly.

Check Whether the Drain Pump Runs

Once restrictions and installation problems have been ruled out, determine whether the drain pump actually operates when commanded.

Possible situations include:

Pump runs but water does not drain

→ Look more closely at restrictions, impeller condition, check valve and drain path.

Pump does not run

→ Investigate pump winding, voltage supply, wiring and Main PCB.

This distinction helps avoid replacing an electrically functional pump when the real problem is a blocked drain system.

LG Uses Different Drain Pump Designs

This is one of the most important technical details on the OE source page.

LG dishwasher models can use different drain pump and sump designs.

The source specifically warns technicians to:

Use the information appropriate to the drain pump installed in the machine.

Two examples documented on the page are:

2-wire 120 VAC drain pump

and

3-wire BLDC drain pump

Their electrical specifications are very different.

Do not apply the resistance or voltage specification from one pump design to the other.

2-Wire 120 VAC Drain Pump

For the example 2-wire drain pump, the source identifies it as a:

120 VAC pump

with expected motor resistance of:

20–40 Ω.

This specification applies to that pump style.

A resistance reading outside the appropriate range—or an open winding—can indicate a defective drain pump motor.

3-Wire BLDC Drain Pump

The source also documents a 3-wire BLDC (Brushless DC) drain pump.

Expected winding resistance:

3–6 Ω between any two wires.

Therefore, resistance should be checked between each relevant pair of motor wires.

For example:

Wire 1 → Wire 2
Wire 2 → Wire 3
Wire 1 → Wire 3

The expected value for the documented BLDC design is approximately 3–6 Ω between any two wires.

BLDC Drain Pump Operating Voltage

The BLDC pump is described as a:

22 VDC Brushless Motor using pulse-width-modulated DC voltage.

However, there is an important measurement detail.

The source states that this PWM drive cannot be meaningfully checked simply by placing a standard multimeter in DC-voltage mode.

Instead, it recommends using a higher-quality multimeter capable of reading high-frequency inverter pulses, with the meter set to AC voltage.

This is an important distinction from a conventional 120 VAC pump.

BLDC Pump Test Mode Values

When the BLDC drain pump is activated in Test Mode, the source gives approximate readings of:

11–12 VAC

and a speed readout of approximately:

320 RPM.

These values relate to the documented 3-wire BLDC pump testing method.

They should not be applied to the 2-wire 120 VAC pump.

Check Drain Pump Voltage

For a pump that does not operate, the source recommends measuring voltage beginning at the Main PCB during Test Mode.

The diagnostic sequence is:

Drain pump commanded ON
→ Check voltage produced by Main PCB.

If the Main PCB does not produce the expected pump output during Test Mode, the source directs replacement of the Main PCB.

If voltage is present at the board, continue testing at the drain pump.

Voltage at Pump but Pump Does Not Run

If the correct operating voltage reaches the drain pump but the pump does not operate, the source directs replacement of the:

Drain pump assembly.

This is a much stronger diagnosis than simply seeing OE.

The logic is:

Pump commanded ON
→ Correct voltage reaches pump
→ Pump does not run
→ Drain pump itself becomes the primary suspect.

Voltage at PCB but Not at Pump

If voltage is produced at the Main PCB but does not reach the drain pump, the source identifies the:

Wiring harness

as the likely problem.

Inspect for:

  • Broken wires
  • Loose connectors
  • Corroded terminals
  • Backed-out pins
  • Pinched wiring
  • Burned connections
  • Damaged insulation

Repair wiring faults before replacing the Main PCB or pump.

Check Drain Pump Resistance From the Main PCB

The source also recommends measuring pump resistance from the Main PCB connector.

If the measurement shows an open circuit, repeat the resistance measurement directly at the drain pump.

This helps distinguish between a failed pump and an open wiring harness.

The logic is:

Open circuit measured from Main PCB
→ Measure directly at pump.

Pump also reads open
→ Replace drain pump.

Pump winding tests normally
→ Check wiring continuity between PCB and pump.

Why Pump Resistance Should Be Checked at Two Locations

Testing first from the Main PCB evaluates more than just the motor.

It effectively evaluates:

PCB connector → Wiring harness → Pump winding

If that circuit appears open, testing directly at the pump separates the two possibilities:

Pump open
→ Pump failure.

Pump good but circuit open from PCB
→ Harness/connection problem.

This can prevent unnecessary drain pump replacement.

Pump Running Does Not Mean the Drain System Is Clear

A drain pump can be electrically functional while the dishwasher still cannot drain.

For example:

Pump operates
+
Drain hose blocked

can still produce OE.

Likewise:

Pump operates
+
Garbage disposal knockout plug installed

can prevent drainage.

Or:

Motor turns
+
Impeller damaged

may result in insufficient pumping.

This is why OE should be treated as a drain-system error, not simply a drain-pump error.

OE After Installing a New Garbage Disposal

If OE appeared immediately after garbage disposal installation or replacement, check the disposal connection before opening the dishwasher.

Specifically:

Was the dishwasher knockout plug removed?

This is explicitly included in the direct troubleshooting procedure.

It is one of the easiest OE causes to identify and correct.

OE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

OE displayed
→ Clean dishwasher filters
→ Check drain hose for clogging, kinks or freezing
→ Verify correct drain-hose routing
→ Check air gap
→ Check garbage disposal and knockout plug
→ Inspect applicable float box
→ Inspect sump/check valve
→ Check drain pump impeller
→ Identify exact drain pump type
→ Activate drain pump in Test Mode
→ Check Main PCB output
→ Check voltage at pump
→ Check pump resistance
→ Check harness continuity
→ Diagnose pump or Main PCB only after confirming the electrical failure

This follows the overall diagnostic structure of the direct source.

Can You Clear the OE Code?

OE may disappear after the drainage problem has been corrected and the dishwasher is restarted.

However:

Code Cleared ≠ Drainage Problem Repaired

If water still cannot leave the dishwasher correctly, OE can return during the next drain portion of the cycle.

Repeatedly resetting the dishwasher will not correct:

  • Clogged drain hose
  • Blocked air gap
  • Disposal obstruction
  • Installed knockout plug
  • Clogged filters
  • Mechanical pump obstruction
  • Failed pump winding
  • Wiring failure
  • Main PCB output failure

The underlying drain problem should be corrected.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • OE repeatedly returns
  • Water remains in the dishwasher
  • Drain hose and filters are clear
  • Air gap and disposal are clear
  • Drain pump does not run
  • Drain pump runs but water does not drain
  • Pump resistance needs testing
  • Pump voltage requires measurement
  • Wiring continuity requires diagnosis
  • Main PCB output must be tested

Disconnect power before accessing internal components. Live-voltage testing should be performed by a qualified technician.

Key Point

OE means Drain Error.

The Main PCB is not detecting that water has properly drained from the dishwasher tub.

Start with the drain path:

Filters → Drain Hose → Air Gap / Disposal → Sump / Check Valve → Drain Pump

Then move to electrical diagnosis:

Pump → Wiring → Main PCB

The direct source documents different pump designs:

2-wire 120 VAC pump

  • 20–40 Ω

3-wire BLDC pump

  • 3–6 Ω between any two wires
  • 22 VDC PWM motor
  • Approximately 11–12 VAC measured using the specified Test Mode method
  • Approximately 320 RPM speed readout

Do not replace the drain pump based on OE alone. A blocked hose, clogged filter, air gap, garbage disposal connection, incorrect installation, damaged impeller, wiring fault, or control-board problem can all prevent normal drainage.

The P1 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle feature is currently set to:

P1 — Pots & Pans

LG identifies P1 as the default Download Cycle.

If P1 appears on the dishwasher display, it normally does not indicate a malfunction or a component failure.

What the P1 Message Means

P1 is a cycle code, not a diagnostic fault code.

LG dishwashers with the Download Cycle feature can use additional specialized wash cycles that are downloaded to the appliance.

The dishwasher display may show the code representing the currently installed Download Cycle.

For the default configuration:

P1 = Pots & Pans

Therefore:

P1 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ Pots & Pans cycle is currently assigned
→ Normal operation
→ No repair required

Is P1 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source explicitly states:

This is not an error code.

The code indicates the dishwasher’s current Download Cycle.

This distinction is important on an LG dishwasher error-code guide because P1 looks very similar to a diagnostic code.

If the dishwasher is otherwise operating normally, there is no reason to diagnose the pump, heater, sensors, control board, or other components simply because P1 appears.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

Download Cycle allows compatible LG dishwashers to use additional specialized wash cycles.

The direct source explains that a dedicated cycle can be downloaded using:

  • Wi-Fi
  • NFC

depending on the appliance and supported connectivity features.

This allows the dishwasher to use cycles beyond the standard selections available directly from its control panel.

What Does P1 Stand For?

The direct source identifies:

Default Cycle: P1 — Pots & Pans.

Pots & Pans is therefore the default cycle associated with P1 in the Download Cycle system.

P1 should be understood as:

P1
→ Download Cycle code
→ Pots & Pans
→ Not an error

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P1 Instead of the Cycle Name?

LG notes that only the cycle code for the current Download Cycle appears on the appliance.

That means the dishwasher may show:

P1

rather than displaying the full text:

Pots & Pans

This design can understandably cause confusion because a short combination of a letter and number resembles a typical appliance fault code.

However, in this context, P1 is simply identifying the currently selected/downloaded wash cycle.

Where Can You Find the Cycle Name?

The direct source recommends using the smartphone app to view:

  • Cycle codes
  • Cycle names
  • Additional information about available cycles

The dishwasher itself may display only the short code.

Therefore, when an unfamiliar P code appears in connection with Download Cycle, checking the app can provide more information about the corresponding wash program.

Does P1 Mean Something Is Wrong With the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

P1 does not indicate a detected failure in the:

  • Water inlet system
  • Drain system
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

It is simply identifying a Download Cycle.

If the dishwasher is washing normally and P1 appears in connection with cycle selection, no diagnostic repair is required.

P1 and the Pots & Pans Cycle

P1 identifies the Pots & Pans Download Cycle.

The important distinction is that the displayed code identifies the selected program rather than reporting an operating fault.

Conceptually:

Download Cycle feature
→ Specialized cycle stored in dishwasher
→ User selects Download Cycle
→ Dishwasher displays cycle code
→ P1 = Pots & Pans

This is normal dishwasher operation.

Can the P1 Download Cycle Be Changed?

The Download Cycle feature is designed to allow compatible LG appliances to receive additional cycles.

The direct source notes that new wash cycles can be downloaded and that the smartphone app provides information about available cycles.

As a result, the cycle assigned to the Download Cycle feature may differ after another supported cycle is downloaded.

P1 is identified by the source as the default cycle.

P1 vs. an Actual Dishwasher Error Code

P1 should be clearly separated from true diagnostic errors.

P1

→ Download Cycle
→ Pots & Pans
→ Default Download Cycle
→ Not an error
→ No repair normally required

Actual error code

→ Dishwasher detected an abnormal operating condition
→ Troubleshooting may be required

This distinction can prevent unnecessary resets, service calls, and component replacement.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P1 Appears?

Normally, no.

There is no reason to reset the dishwasher simply because P1 is displayed.

Because P1 represents a cycle selection rather than a fault, power cycling the dishwasher is not a repair procedure for this message.

Instead, check which Download Cycle is selected and use the smartphone app if you need more information about the installed cycle.

Does P1 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P1 by itself does not indicate that the dishwasher requires service.

Professional diagnosis would only be relevant if the dishwasher has a separate operating problem, such as:

  • Not filling
  • Not draining
  • Not washing
  • Not heating
  • Leaking
  • Displaying an actual diagnostic error

P1 alone is simply a Download Cycle indicator.

Key Point

P1 means Pots & Pans Download Cycle. It is not an error code.

The direct source identifies:

P1 = Pots & Pans

and states that P1 is the default Download Cycle.

LG’s Download Cycle feature allows compatible appliances to use dedicated cycles downloadable through Wi-Fi or NFC. Only the current Download Cycle code appears on the appliance, while the smartphone app provides cycle names and additional information.

So if your LG dishwasher displays P1:

P1 → Pots & Pans → Download Cycle → Normal operation

There is normally nothing to repair.

The P10 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It identifies one of the dishwasher’s available Download Cycles:

P10 — Night Care

If P10 appears on the display while using the Download Cycle feature, it normally indicates the selected wash program rather than a dishwasher malfunction.

What the P10 Message Means

P10 is a cycle identification code, not a diagnostic error.

LG dishwashers equipped with compatible smart features can use additional downloadable wash cycles. Instead of displaying the complete cycle name on the dishwasher control panel, the appliance may display a short code.

In this case:

P10 = Night Care

Therefore:

P10 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ Night Care cycle assigned
→ Normal operation
→ No repair required

Is P10 an Error Code?

No.

P10 belongs to the dishwasher’s Download Cycle system.

It should not be interpreted in the same way as actual diagnostic codes such as:

  • IE — Water Inlet Error
  • OE — Drain Error
  • LE — Locked Motor Error
  • nE — Vario Motor Error
  • HE — Heater Error

Those codes indicate detected abnormal operating conditions.

P10 simply identifies a wash cycle.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG dishwashers to use additional specialized washing programs beyond the standard cycles available from the control panel.

The selected downloadable program is represented on the dishwasher display by a short code such as:

P1, P2, P3 … P10

These should not automatically be interpreted as fault codes.

What Does P10 Stand For?

For this Download Cycle group:

P10 = Night Care

The important distinction is:

P10
→ Cycle code
→ Night Care
→ Not a fault code

If the dishwasher is operating normally, seeing P10 does not indicate that a component needs to be tested or replaced.

What Is the Night Care Cycle?

Night Care is a Download Cycle option available within the compatible LG dishwasher cycle system.

When P10 is assigned as the Download Cycle, selecting that feature tells the dishwasher to operate using the corresponding Night Care program.

P10 identifies the selected program—it does not report a failure within that program.

For exact cycle behavior and availability, use the information for the specific dishwasher model and its compatible LG smart application, since available downloadable functions can vary by model.

Why Does the Dishwasher Show P10 Instead of “Night Care”?

Dishwasher displays have limited space and commonly use abbreviated identifiers.

Instead of showing:

Night Care

the control panel can display:

P10

This can easily be mistaken for an error because appliance diagnostic codes also use combinations of letters and numbers.

However:

P10 ≠ Diagnostic fault

It is simply an identifier for the downloaded cycle.

Does P10 Mean Something Is Wrong?

Normally, no.

P10 does not by itself indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain pump
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Water inlet valve
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensor
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

No component should be replaced simply because P10 appears.

P10 vs. P1

Both belong to the same general Download Cycle system, but they identify different programs.

P1
→ Pots & Pans
→ Default Download Cycle

P10
→ Night Care

Neither is an error code.

This is an important distinction because a user searching for “LG dishwasher P10 error” may assume that the higher number represents a more serious fault. It does not.

P10 vs. an Actual Error Code

A useful distinction is:

P10

→ Download Cycle
→ Night Care
→ Normal cycle indicator
→ No repair normally required

Actual LG dishwasher error code

→ Control detects an abnormal operating condition
→ Diagnostic troubleshooting may be required

The presence of P10 alone is therefore not evidence of a dishwasher failure.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P10 Appears?

Normally, no.

There is no reason to power-cycle or reset the dishwasher solely because P10 appears as the selected Download Cycle.

A reset is not a repair procedure for P10 because there is no fault to clear.

Instead, check which Download Cycle is currently selected if you want to use a different washing program.

Can the Download Cycle Be Changed?

On compatible LG dishwashers, the Download Cycle feature is designed to allow another supported specialized cycle to be assigned to the appliance.

If another cycle is downloaded or selected, the code associated with the Download Cycle may change.

Therefore, seeing P10 generally tells you which downloadable cycle is currently assigned, rather than providing diagnostic information about dishwasher operation.

Why P10 May Appear Unexpectedly

If you did not expect to see P10, first check whether the Download Cycle option has been selected.

It may simply mean that:

  • Download Cycle is currently selected
  • Night Care has been assigned to that feature
  • The dishwasher is displaying the corresponding cycle identifier

This should be checked before attempting any troubleshooting.

Does P10 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P10 by itself is not evidence of a component failure.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if the dishwasher has a separate problem, such as:

  • Dishwasher will not fill
  • Water will not drain
  • Wash motor does not operate
  • Dishwasher does not heat
  • Water is leaking
  • An actual diagnostic error code appears

Those symptoms should be diagnosed independently from the P10 Download Cycle indicator.

Key Point

P10 means Night Care Download Cycle. It is not an error code.

The correct interpretation is:

P10 → Night Care → Download Cycle → Normal cycle indicator

It does not indicate a failure of the pump, motor, heater, sensor, or Main PCB.

If P10 appears on an otherwise normally operating LG dishwasher, there is generally nothing to repair.

The P2 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It identifies a Download Cycle:

P2 — Machine Clean

If P2 appears when using the Download Cycle feature, it indicates the selected cleaning program rather than a dishwasher malfunction.

What the P2 Message Means

P2 is a cycle identification code, not a diagnostic fault.

On compatible LG dishwashers, additional specialized cycles can be assigned to the Download Cycle feature. The control panel may display a short P code instead of the full cycle name.

In this case:

P2 = Machine Clean

Therefore:

P2 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ Machine Clean cycle assigned
→ Normal cycle selection
→ No repair required

Is P2 an Error Code?

No.

P2 should not be interpreted like actual LG dishwasher diagnostic codes such as IE, OE, HE, LE, or nE.

Those codes indicate that the dishwasher has detected an abnormal operating condition.

P2 simply identifies the Machine Clean Download Cycle.

What Is the Machine Clean Cycle?

The Machine Clean cycle is intended for cleaning the dishwasher itself rather than washing a normal load of dishes.

Over time, residue can accumulate inside a dishwasher from:

  • Food particles
  • Grease
  • Detergent residue
  • Mineral deposits
  • Hard-water buildup

A dedicated machine-cleaning cycle provides a program specifically intended for maintaining the dishwasher interior.

When to Use Machine Clean

Machine Clean can be useful when the dishwasher interior needs periodic cleaning.

You may consider using the cycle when you notice:

  • Visible residue inside the tub
  • Greasy buildup
  • Mineral deposits
  • Odors
  • Accumulation around internal dishwasher surfaces

The appearance of P2 itself, however, does not mean that the dishwasher has detected one of these conditions.

It only identifies the selected Download Cycle.

P2 Does Not Mean the Dishwasher Detected Dirt

It is important not to interpret P2 as a maintenance warning.

The sequence is:

Machine Clean assigned as Download Cycle
→ Download Cycle selected
→ Dishwasher displays P2

It does not mean:

Dishwasher detected contamination → P2 error generated

There is no component failure associated with the P2 display by itself.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

Compatible LG dishwashers can provide specialized programs through the Download Cycle feature.

The appliance uses short identifiers such as:

P1, P2, P3 …

to represent these programs.

This explains why a normal cycle selection can easily be mistaken for an error code.

The important distinction is:

P-code used as Download Cycle identifier ≠ diagnostic fault code

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P2 Instead of “Machine Clean”?

The dishwasher display uses a compact cycle identifier.

Instead of displaying the complete name:

Machine Clean

the control panel may display:

P2

This short format resembles an appliance error code, which is why owners frequently search for its meaning.

In this context, however, P2 is simply the identifier for the Machine Clean cycle.

Should Dishes Be Washed During Machine Clean?

Because Machine Clean is intended for cleaning the dishwasher itself, it should be treated differently from a normal dishwashing cycle.

Follow the instructions provided for the exact LG dishwasher model when using this cycle, including any recommendations concerning:

  • Whether the dishwasher should be empty
  • Cleaning products
  • Detergent use
  • Filter cleaning
  • Cycle preparation

Do not assume that the procedure is identical across every LG dishwasher model.

Check the Filters Before Machine Cleaning

If the reason for using Machine Clean is odor or poor dishwasher cleanliness, checking the filter system is also useful.

Food debris and residue trapped in the filters may contribute to:

  • Odors
  • Poor drainage
  • Reduced washing performance
  • Visible contamination

Cleaning accessible filters according to the owner’s manual can complement the Machine Clean cycle.

This is general maintenance and should not be interpreted as troubleshooting a P2 fault—because P2 is not a fault.

P2 vs. P1

Both belong to the Download Cycle group, but they identify different programs.

P1
→ Pots & Pans
→ Download Cycle
→ Not an error

P2
→ Machine Clean
→ Download Cycle
→ Not an error

Neither indicates that the dishwasher requires repair.

P2 vs. an Actual Dishwasher Error

The distinction is straightforward:

P2

→ Machine Clean
→ Download Cycle
→ Normal cycle indicator
→ No repair normally required

Actual diagnostic error

→ Dishwasher detects abnormal operation
→ Troubleshooting may be required

This distinction prevents unnecessary resets and component replacement.

Does P2 Indicate a Pump or Motor Problem?

No.

P2 by itself does not indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain pump
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Water inlet valve
  • Heater
  • Temperature sensor
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

Those systems should not be diagnosed simply because P2 appears on the display.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P2 Appears?

Normally, no.

Because P2 is a cycle identifier rather than an error, there is no diagnostic fault to clear.

If you do not want to use Machine Clean, select another appropriate cycle according to the controls available on the dishwasher.

Power cycling the appliance is not a repair procedure for P2.

Can P2 Be Replaced by Another Download Cycle?

On compatible models, the Download Cycle feature can be used with different supported specialized cycles.

If another Download Cycle is assigned, the identifier shown by the dishwasher may change accordingly.

Therefore, P2 describes which Download Cycle is assigned or selected, not the health of the dishwasher.

Why P2 May Appear Unexpectedly

If P2 appears unexpectedly, check whether the dishwasher is currently set to Download Cycle.

A likely sequence is:

Download Cycle selected
→ Machine Clean currently assigned
→ Display shows P2

This should be checked before assuming that the dishwasher has generated a new error.

Does P2 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P2 alone does not indicate a dishwasher malfunction.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if there is a separate problem, such as:

  • Dishwasher will not fill
  • Dishwasher will not drain
  • Wash system does not operate
  • Dishwasher does not heat
  • Water leaks from the appliance
  • An actual diagnostic error code appears

Those problems should be diagnosed independently from P2.

Key Point

P2 means Machine Clean Download Cycle. It is not an error code.

The correct interpretation is:

P2 → Machine Clean → Download Cycle → Normal cycle indicator

P2 does not mean that a pump, motor, heater, sensor, or control board has failed.

If the dishwasher is otherwise operating normally, there is nothing to repair simply because P2 appears.

The P3 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle feature is selected and that P3 is the code associated with the currently available downloaded cycle.

LG specifically identifies these P displays as:

Download Cycle (Not an Error).

What the P3 Message Means

P3 is a cycle code, not a diagnostic fault.

On compatible LG dishwashers, the Download Cycle feature allows additional wash programs to be downloaded to the appliance.

When one of these cycles is selected, the dishwasher may display a short code such as:

P3

rather than the complete cycle name.

Therefore:

P3 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ Current downloaded cycle represented by P3
→ Not a dishwasher fault

Is P3 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source explicitly states:

This is not an error code.

It explains that the displayed code indicates the dishwasher’s current Download Cycle.

P3 should therefore not be interpreted as a failure of the:

  • Drain pump
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Water inlet valve
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

No component should be replaced simply because P3 appears on the display.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG appliances to receive additional specialized cycles.

According to the direct source, dedicated cycles can be downloaded through:

  • Wi-Fi
  • NFC

This allows additional wash programs to be made available beyond the dishwasher’s standard built-in cycle selections.

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P3?

LG explains that:

Only the cycle code for the current Download Cycle appears on the appliance.

That means the control panel may show a compact identifier such as P3 instead of displaying the complete cycle name.

Because combinations of letters and numbers are also commonly used for appliance diagnostic codes, P3 can easily be mistaken for an error.

In this case, however:

P3 = Download Cycle identifier

not:

P3 = Dishwasher failure

What Cycle Does P3 Represent?

The direct P3 source page does not specify a universal cycle name for P3.

Instead, LG instructs users to check the smartphone app for cycle codes, cycle names, and additional information about available cycles.

Therefore, the safest way to identify exactly what P3 represents on a particular dishwasher is to check the compatible app and the cycle currently downloaded to that appliance.

A specific cycle name should not be assumed from the P3 code alone.

Why the Smartphone App Matters

The dishwasher display provides only limited information.

The appliance may show:

P3

while the smartphone app can provide the corresponding:

  • Cycle code
  • Cycle name
  • Additional cycle information

This is particularly useful when the owner does not remember which Download Cycle was previously installed.

P3 vs. the Default P1 Cycle

The direct source provides one specific reference point:

Default Cycle: P1 — Pots & Pans.

This means P1 has a clearly identified default assignment on the source page.

P3, however, is not given a specific cycle name on the direct P3 page.

Therefore:

P1
→ Default Download Cycle
→ Pots & Pans

P3
→ Download Cycle code
→ Check smartphone app for the corresponding cycle name

Both are not error codes.

Does P3 Mean Something Is Wrong With the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

If P3 appears while the Download Cycle feature is being used and the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, the display is simply identifying the current downloaded cycle.

There is no reason to begin electrical or mechanical troubleshooting based on P3 alone.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P3 Appears?

Normally, no.

Because P3 is not a diagnostic error, there is no fault that needs to be cleared.

Power cycling the dishwasher is therefore not a repair procedure for P3.

If you want to understand why P3 is displayed, check:

Download Cycle selection → Smartphone app → Current downloaded cycle

rather than resetting the appliance.

Can the P3 Cycle Change?

The Download Cycle feature is designed to allow additional wash programs to be downloaded to compatible appliances.

The source states that new wash cycles can be made available and downloaded to the appliance.

Therefore, the dishwasher’s Download Cycle configuration can change when another supported cycle is downloaded.

This is another reason not to assign a cycle name to P3 unless it is confirmed for the specific configuration.

P3 vs. an Actual Dishwasher Error

The distinction is straightforward:

P3

→ Download Cycle identifier
→ Not an error
→ Check app for cycle information
→ No repair normally required

Actual diagnostic error

→ Dishwasher detects abnormal operation
→ Troubleshooting may be required

This distinction can prevent unnecessary resets, service calls, and component replacement.

Does P3 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P3 alone does not indicate a dishwasher malfunction.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if the dishwasher has a separate operating problem, such as:

  • Not filling
  • Not draining
  • Not circulating water
  • Not heating
  • Leaking
  • Stopping unexpectedly
  • Displaying an actual diagnostic error code

Those symptoms should be diagnosed separately from the P3 Download Cycle display.

Key Point

P3 is a Download Cycle code. It is not an error code.

The direct source confirms that:

  • Download Cycle is selected when this code appears.
  • Downloadable cycles can be provided through Wi-Fi or NFC.
  • Only the current Download Cycle code appears on the dishwasher.
  • The smartphone app provides the cycle codes, names, and additional information.
  • P1 — Pots & Pans is identified as the default Download Cycle.

For P3, the direct page does not identify a specific universal cycle name.

Therefore:

P3 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for cycle name → Not an error

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, P3 by itself does not require repair.

The P4 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle feature is selected and P4 represents the currently assigned downloaded cycle.

LG identifies this condition as:

Download Cycle (Not an Error).

What the P4 Message Means

P4 is a cycle identification code, not a diagnostic fault.

Compatible LG dishwashers can use additional specialized wash programs through the Download Cycle feature. When one of these programs is selected, the dishwasher may display a short code such as P4 rather than the complete cycle name.

Therefore:

P4 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ P4 identifies the current downloaded cycle
→ Normal cycle indication
→ Not a dishwasher fault

Is P4 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source specifically states that the Download Cycle display:

is not an error code.

P4 does not by itself indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain pump
  • Wash or circulation motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Water inlet system
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

No component should be replaced simply because P4 appears.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG appliances to receive additional specialized cycles.

The source states that dedicated cycles can be downloaded using:

  • Wi-Fi
  • NFC

This provides additional cycle options beyond those normally available directly from the dishwasher’s standard controls.

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P4?

LG explains that only the cycle code for the current Download Cycle appears on the appliance.

Instead of displaying the full cycle name, the control panel may therefore show:

P4

Because appliance diagnostic errors also commonly use combinations of letters and numbers, P4 can easily be mistaken for a fault code.

In this situation:

P4 = Download Cycle identifier

not:

P4 = Dishwasher malfunction

What Cycle Does P4 Represent?

The direct P4 source page does not specify a universal cycle name for P4.

Instead, the source instructs users to check the smartphone app for cycle codes, cycle names, and additional information about available cycles.

Therefore, a specific wash-cycle name should not be assigned to P4 unless it is confirmed for the dishwasher’s current configuration.

The safest interpretation is:

P4 → Download Cycle → Check app for current cycle name

Check the Smartphone App

If you want to know exactly which cycle P4 represents on the dishwasher, check the compatible smartphone app.

LG states that the app provides information about:

  • Cycle codes
  • Cycle names
  • Available cycles

This is more reliable than assuming that every LG dishwasher assigns the same permanent cycle name to P4.

Why the Cycle Assignment Can Matter

The Download Cycle feature is designed to receive additional cycles.

The source explains that new wash cycles can be made available for compatible appliances over time.

For this reason, the displayed P-code should be treated primarily as an identifier for the dishwasher’s Download Cycle configuration.

The code itself does not describe a mechanical or electrical problem.

P4 vs. the Default P1 Cycle

The direct source provides one specific cycle assignment:

P1 — Pots & Pans

and identifies it as the:

Default Cycle.

For P4, the direct page does not provide an equivalent cycle name.

Therefore:

P1
→ Pots & Pans
→ Default Download Cycle

P4
→ Download Cycle code
→ Check smartphone app for current cycle name

Neither should automatically be interpreted as an error.

Does P4 Mean Something Is Wrong With the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

If P4 appears when the Download Cycle feature is selected and the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, there is no reason to begin troubleshooting internal components.

The display is identifying a cycle rather than reporting a detected failure.

P4 vs. an Actual LG Dishwasher Error

The distinction is important:

P4

→ Download Cycle
→ Cycle identifier
→ Not an error
→ No repair normally required

Actual diagnostic error

→ Dishwasher detects an abnormal operating condition
→ Troubleshooting may be required

For example, OE indicates a drainage problem and nE relates to the Vario Motor system. P4 does not perform that type of diagnostic function.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P4 Appears?

Normally, no.

Because P4 is not an error code, there is no fault that needs to be cleared.

Power cycling the dishwasher is not a repair procedure for P4.

If the display is unexpected, first check whether Download Cycle has been selected and which cycle is currently assigned in the app.

Can the P4 Download Cycle Change?

Compatible LG appliances can receive additional downloadable cycles. The direct source notes that new wash cycles can become available through the Download Cycle feature.

As a result, the dishwasher’s downloadable-cycle configuration can change.

This is another reason to check the smartphone app rather than assigning an unsupported permanent cycle name to P4.

Why P4 May Appear Unexpectedly

If you did not intentionally select P4, first check the current cycle selection.

A normal sequence may be:

Download Cycle selected
→ Downloaded program assigned
→ Dishwasher displays P4

The presence of P4 alone does not establish that anything is wrong with the appliance.

Does P4 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P4 by itself does not indicate a dishwasher malfunction.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if there is a separate symptom or actual error, such as:

  • Dishwasher does not fill
  • Water does not drain
  • Spray system does not operate
  • Dishwasher does not heat
  • Water is leaking
  • Cycle repeatedly stops
  • An actual diagnostic error code appears

Those conditions should be diagnosed independently from the P4 display.

Key Point

P4 is a Download Cycle code. It is not an error code.

The direct source confirms:

  • Download Cycle is selected when this type of code appears.
  • The code identifies the current Download Cycle.
  • Compatible cycles can be downloaded using Wi-Fi or NFC.
  • Only the Download Cycle code appears on the appliance.
  • The smartphone app provides cycle codes, names, and additional information.
  • P1 — Pots & Pans is identified as the default cycle.

The direct P4 page does not assign P4 a specific cycle name.

Therefore:

P4 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for cycle name → Not an error

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, P4 does not require repair.

The P5 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle feature is selected and P5 represents the currently assigned downloaded cycle.

If P5 appears on the display, it normally identifies a wash program rather than a dishwasher malfunction.

What the P5 Message Means

P5 is a cycle identification code, not a diagnostic fault.

Compatible LG dishwashers can use additional specialized wash cycles through the Download Cycle feature.

When a downloaded cycle is selected, the dishwasher may display a short code such as:

P5

instead of showing the complete cycle name.

Therefore:

P5 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ P5 identifies the current downloaded cycle
→ Normal cycle indication
→ Not a dishwasher fault

Is P5 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source specifically states:

This is not an error code.

The displayed code indicates the dishwasher’s current Download Cycle.

P5 does not by itself indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain system
  • Water inlet system
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

No component should be replaced simply because P5 appears.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG appliances to use additional specialized cycles.

The direct source states that dedicated cycles can be downloaded through:

  • Wi-Fi
  • NFC

This provides additional cycle options beyond the dishwasher’s standard programs.

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P5?

The direct source explains that:

Only the cycle code for the current Download Cycle appears on the appliance.

As a result, the control panel may show:

P5

rather than the complete name of the downloaded cycle.

Because diagnostic fault codes also use short combinations of letters and numbers, P5 can easily look like an error.

However:

P5 = Download Cycle identifier

not:

P5 = Detected dishwasher failure

What Cycle Does P5 Represent?

The direct P5 page does not specify a universal cycle name for P5.

Instead, it instructs users to check the smartphone app for:

  • Cycle codes
  • Cycle names
  • Additional information about available cycles

Therefore, a specific wash-cycle name should not be assigned to P5 based on this source alone.

The safest interpretation is:

P5 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for current cycle name

Check the Smartphone App

If you want to identify exactly which cycle P5 represents on your dishwasher, check the compatible smartphone app.

The dishwasher itself may provide only the short P5 identifier, while the app provides more information about the downloaded program.

This is especially useful if another Download Cycle was previously installed and you do not remember which one is currently assigned.

P5 vs. the Default P1 Cycle

The source does provide one specific cycle assignment:

P1 — Pots & Pans

and identifies it as the:

Default Cycle.

For P5, however, the direct page provides no equivalent cycle name.

Therefore:

P1
→ Pots & Pans
→ Default Download Cycle

P5
→ Download Cycle code
→ Check smartphone app for current cycle name

Neither should be treated as a diagnostic error.

Can Download Cycles Change?

Yes. The direct source explains that the Download Cycle feature allows the appliance to receive additional cycles and that new wash cycles can become available.

This is another reason not to assume that P5 permanently corresponds to a particular cycle without direct confirmation.

The important information displayed by P5 is that the dishwasher is using a Download Cycle configuration, not that the dishwasher has detected a fault.

Does P5 Mean Something Is Wrong With the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

If P5 appears while Download Cycle is selected and the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, there is no reason to begin diagnosing internal components.

P5 by itself does not indicate a mechanical or electrical failure.

P5 vs. an Actual LG Dishwasher Error

The difference is straightforward:

P5

→ Download Cycle
→ Cycle identifier
→ Not an error
→ No repair normally required

Actual diagnostic error

→ Dishwasher detects abnormal operation
→ Troubleshooting may be required

For example, OE indicates a drainage problem, while nE relates to the Vario Motor system.

P5 serves a completely different purpose.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P5 Appears?

Normally, no.

Because P5 is not a diagnostic fault, there is no error that needs to be cleared.

Power cycling the dishwasher is therefore not a repair procedure for P5.

If P5 appears unexpectedly, first check:

Selected cycle → Download Cycle configuration → Smartphone app

before attempting troubleshooting.

Why P5 May Appear Unexpectedly

If you did not expect to see P5, it may simply mean that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle option has been selected.

A normal sequence can be:

Download Cycle selected
→ Downloaded program currently assigned
→ Dishwasher displays P5

This does not mean that the dishwasher generated an error during the cycle.

Does P5 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P5 alone does not indicate that the dishwasher requires service.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if there is a separate operating problem, such as:

  • Dishwasher will not fill
  • Dishwasher will not drain
  • Water does not circulate
  • Dishwasher does not heat
  • Dishwasher leaks
  • Cycle stops unexpectedly
  • An actual diagnostic error appears

Those symptoms should be diagnosed independently from the P5 display.

Key Point

P5 is a Download Cycle code. It is not an error code.

The direct P5 source confirms that:

  • The message appears when Download Cycle is selected.
  • It is not an error code.
  • The code indicates the current Download Cycle.
  • Dedicated cycles can be downloaded through Wi-Fi or NFC.
  • Only the cycle code appears on the appliance.
  • The smartphone app provides cycle codes, names, and additional information.
  • P1 — Pots & Pans is identified as the default cycle.

The source does not assign a specific cycle name to P5.

Therefore:

P5 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for cycle name → Not an error

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, P5 does not require repair.

The P6 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle feature is selected and P6 represents the currently assigned downloaded cycle.

If P6 appears on the display, it normally identifies a wash program rather than a dishwasher malfunction.

What the P6 Message Means

P6 is a cycle identification code, not a diagnostic fault.

Compatible LG dishwashers can use additional specialized wash programs through the Download Cycle feature.

When a downloaded cycle is selected, the dishwasher may display a short code such as:

P6

rather than the complete cycle name.

Therefore:

P6 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ P6 identifies the current downloaded cycle
→ Normal cycle indication
→ Not a dishwasher fault

Is P6 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source specifically states that this is not an error code and that the displayed code indicates the current Download Cycle.

P6 does not by itself indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain system
  • Water inlet system
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

No component should be replaced simply because P6 appears.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG appliances to use additional dedicated cycles.

The direct source states that these cycles can be downloaded through:

  • Wi-Fi
  • NFC

This allows additional wash programs to be made available beyond the dishwasher’s standard cycle selections.

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P6?

LG explains that only the cycle code for the current Download Cycle appears on the appliance.

That means the dishwasher may show:

P6

rather than displaying the complete name of the cycle.

Because LG also uses short combinations of letters and numbers for actual diagnostic faults, P6 can easily be mistaken for an error code.

In this context, however:

P6 = Download Cycle identifier

not:

P6 = Dishwasher failure

What Cycle Does P6 Represent?

The direct P6 page does not specify a universal cycle name for P6.

This is important because assigning an unsupported name to P6 could provide incorrect information for some dishwasher configurations.

Instead, the source recommends checking the smartphone app for:

  • Cycle codes
  • Cycle names
  • Additional information about available cycles

Therefore:

P6 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for the current cycle name

Check the Smartphone App

If you want to know exactly which cycle P6 represents, check the compatible smartphone app.

The dishwasher itself may display only the short code, while the app provides more detailed information about the available Download Cycles.

This is the appropriate way to identify the cycle rather than assuming that P6 always corresponds to a particular wash program.

Why P6 Does Not Have a Fixed Name Here

The direct source describes Download Cycle as a feature that allows compatible appliances to receive additional cycles and updates. It also notes that new wash cycles can become available.

For that reason, the important information provided by the P6 display is its relationship to the Download Cycle feature.

The direct P6 page does not establish a permanent cycle-name assignment that we can safely publish.

P6 vs. the Default P1 Cycle

The source does provide one specific assignment:

P1 — Pots & Pans

and identifies P1 as the:

Default Cycle.

For P6, no corresponding cycle name is given.

Therefore:

P1
→ Pots & Pans
→ Default Download Cycle

P6
→ Download Cycle code
→ Check smartphone app for cycle name

Both are normal Download Cycle indicators rather than diagnostic faults.

Does P6 Mean Something Is Wrong With the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

If P6 appears while Download Cycle is selected and the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, there is no reason to begin diagnosing internal components.

P6 does not indicate that the dishwasher has detected a mechanical or electrical failure.

P6 vs. an Actual LG Dishwasher Error

The distinction is straightforward:

P6

→ Download Cycle
→ Cycle identifier
→ Not an error
→ No repair normally required

An actual diagnostic error indicates that the dishwasher detected an abnormal operating condition and may require troubleshooting.

For example:

OE → Drain Error

nE → Vario Motor Error

P6 → Download Cycle identifier

These messages serve completely different purposes.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P6 Appears?

Normally, no.

Because P6 is not a diagnostic error, there is no fault that needs to be cleared.

Power cycling the dishwasher is therefore not a repair procedure for P6.

If the display is unexpected, first check:

Cycle selection → Download Cycle → Smartphone app

This can identify why P6 is currently being displayed.

Can the P6 Download Cycle Change?

The Download Cycle feature is designed to allow additional cycles to be made available to compatible LG appliances.

The direct source states that new wash cycles can become available and that Download Cycle allows the appliance to receive updates.

Therefore, the Download Cycle configuration may change.

This is another reason to check the app for the current cycle information instead of assigning P6 an unsupported permanent cycle name.

Why P6 May Appear Unexpectedly

If P6 appears unexpectedly, first confirm whether Download Cycle has been selected.

A normal sequence can be:

Download Cycle selected
→ Downloaded program currently assigned
→ Dishwasher displays P6

This does not mean:

Dishwasher detects failure
→ P6 generated

P6 itself is not a fault notification.

Does P6 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P6 alone does not indicate that the dishwasher requires service.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if the dishwasher has a separate problem, such as:

  • Not filling
  • Not draining
  • Not circulating water
  • Not heating
  • Leaking
  • Stopping unexpectedly
  • Displaying an actual diagnostic error

Those symptoms should be diagnosed independently from P6.

Key Point

P6 is a Download Cycle code. It is not an error code.

The direct P6 source confirms that:

  • Download Cycle is selected.
  • P6 is not a diagnostic error.
  • The displayed code indicates the current Download Cycle.
  • Dedicated cycles can be downloaded through Wi-Fi or NFC.
  • Only the current Download Cycle code appears on the appliance.
  • The smartphone app provides cycle codes, names, and additional information.
  • P1 — Pots & Pans is identified as the default cycle.

The direct page does not provide a specific cycle name for P6.

Therefore:

P6 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for cycle name → Not an error

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, P6 does not require repair.

The P7 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle feature is selected and P7 represents the currently assigned downloaded cycle.

If P7 appears on the display, it normally identifies a downloaded wash program rather than a dishwasher malfunction.

What the P7 Message Means

P7 is a cycle identification code, not a diagnostic fault.

Compatible LG dishwashers can use additional specialized wash programs through the Download Cycle feature. When a downloaded cycle is selected, the dishwasher may display a short code such as:

P7

instead of the complete cycle name.

Therefore:

P7 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ P7 identifies the current downloaded cycle
→ Normal cycle indication
→ Not a dishwasher fault

Is P7 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source explicitly states:

This is not an error code.

It explains that the displayed code indicates the dishwasher’s current Download Cycle.

P7 does not by itself indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain system
  • Water inlet system
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

No dishwasher component should be replaced simply because P7 appears.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG dishwashers to use additional dedicated wash programs.

According to the direct source, these cycles can be downloaded using:

  • Wi-Fi
  • NFC

The feature also allows compatible appliances to receive additional cycles as they become available.

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P7?

LG explains that only the cycle code for the current Download Cycle appears on the appliance.

Instead of displaying a full cycle name, the dishwasher can therefore show:

P7

This can easily be mistaken for a diagnostic error because LG dishwasher fault codes also commonly use short combinations of letters and numbers.

However:

P7 = Download Cycle identifier

not:

P7 = Detected dishwasher failure

What Cycle Does P7 Represent?

The direct P7 page does not identify a specific universal cycle name for P7.

Therefore, we should not assign names such as Machine Clean, Delicate, Night Care, or another specialized program to P7 unless another reliable model-specific source confirms that assignment.

Instead, LG directs users to the smartphone app for:

  • Cycle codes
  • Cycle names
  • Additional information about available cycles

The safest interpretation is:

P7 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for current cycle name

Check the Smartphone App

If you want to determine exactly which downloaded program P7 represents on a particular dishwasher, check the compatible smartphone app.

The dishwasher itself may display only the short cycle code, while the app provides the corresponding cycle information.

This is particularly useful if the Download Cycle has previously been changed or updated.

Why the Cycle Name Should Not Be Assumed

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible appliances to receive additional cycles.

The source notes that new wash cycles can become available over time.

For that reason, the important information provided by P7 is that it belongs to the Download Cycle system.

The direct P7 page does not establish a specific permanent P7 cycle name that can safely be published as universal.

P7 vs. the Default P1 Cycle

The direct source does provide one specific assignment:

P1 — Pots & Pans

and identifies it as the:

Default Cycle.

For P7, no corresponding cycle name is provided.

Therefore:

P1
→ Pots & Pans
→ Default Download Cycle

P7
→ Download Cycle code
→ Check smartphone app for cycle name

Neither should be interpreted as a diagnostic fault.

Does P7 Mean Something Is Wrong With the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

If P7 appears while Download Cycle is selected and the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, there is no reason to begin troubleshooting internal components.

P7 does not indicate that the dishwasher has detected a mechanical or electrical failure.

P7 vs. an Actual LG Dishwasher Error

The difference is important:

P7

→ Download Cycle
→ Cycle identifier
→ Not an error
→ No repair normally required

An actual diagnostic error means the dishwasher detected an abnormal operating condition.

For example:

OE → Drain Error

nE → Vario Motor Error

HE → Heater Error

P7 → Download Cycle identifier

P7 serves a completely different purpose.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P7 Appears?

Normally, no.

Because P7 is not a diagnostic error, there is no fault that needs to be cleared.

Power cycling the dishwasher is therefore not a repair procedure for P7.

If P7 appears unexpectedly, first check:

Selected cycle → Download Cycle → Smartphone app

This can help identify which downloaded program is currently assigned.

Can the Download Cycle Change?

Yes.

The source explains that the Download Cycle feature allows compatible appliances to receive updates and additional wash cycles.

Therefore, the dishwasher’s downloadable-cycle configuration can change.

This further supports checking the app rather than assigning an unsupported fixed cycle name to P7.

Why P7 May Appear Unexpectedly

If you did not intentionally select P7, first confirm whether Download Cycle is currently selected.

A normal sequence can be:

Download Cycle selected
→ Downloaded program currently assigned
→ Dishwasher displays P7

This is different from:

Dishwasher detects malfunction
→ Error code generated

P7 itself does not report a malfunction.

Does P7 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P7 alone does not indicate that the dishwasher requires service.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if there is a separate operating problem, such as:

  • Dishwasher will not fill
  • Water will not drain
  • Water does not circulate
  • Dishwasher does not heat
  • Dishwasher leaks
  • Cycle stops unexpectedly
  • An actual diagnostic error appears

Those symptoms should be diagnosed independently from P7.

Key Point

P7 is a Download Cycle code. It is not an error code.

The direct P7 page confirms that:

  • Download Cycle is selected.
  • The message is not an error code.
  • The displayed code indicates the current Download Cycle.
  • Dedicated cycles can be downloaded using Wi-Fi or NFC.
  • Only the current cycle code appears on the dishwasher.
  • The smartphone app provides cycle codes, names, and additional information.
  • P1 — Pots & Pans is identified as the default cycle.

The source does not provide a specific cycle name for P7.

Therefore:

P7 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for cycle name → Not an error

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, P7 does not require repair.

The P8 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle feature is selected and P8 represents the currently assigned downloaded cycle.

If P8 appears on the display, it normally identifies a downloaded wash program rather than a dishwasher malfunction.

What the P8 Message Means

P8 is a cycle identification code, not a diagnostic fault.

Compatible LG dishwashers can use additional specialized wash programs through the Download Cycle feature. When a downloaded cycle is selected, the dishwasher may display a short code such as:

P8

instead of the complete cycle name.

Therefore:

P8 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ P8 identifies the current downloaded cycle
→ Normal cycle indication
→ Not a dishwasher fault

Is P8 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source explicitly states:

This is not an error code.

The code indicates the dishwasher’s current Download Cycle.

P8 does not by itself indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain system
  • Water inlet system
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

No component should be replaced simply because P8 appears.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG dishwashers to use additional dedicated wash programs.

According to the direct source, these cycles can be downloaded through:

  • Wi-Fi
  • NFC

The source also explains that the Download Cycle feature allows the appliance to receive updates and additional wash cycles.

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P8?

LG explains that:

Only the cycle code for the current Download Cycle appears on the appliance.

Instead of displaying the complete cycle name, the control panel may therefore show:

P8

This can easily be mistaken for a diagnostic error because LG dishwasher fault codes also use combinations of letters and numbers.

However:

P8 = Download Cycle identifier

not:

P8 = Dishwasher malfunction

What Cycle Does P8 Represent?

The direct P8 source page does not specify a universal cycle name for P8.

Instead, the source instructs users to check the smartphone app for:

  • Cycle codes
  • Cycle names
  • Additional information about available cycles

Therefore, a specific cycle name should not be assigned to P8 based on this source alone.

The safest interpretation is:

P8 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for current cycle name

Check the Smartphone App

If you want to identify exactly which cycle P8 represents on a particular dishwasher, check the compatible smartphone app.

The dishwasher itself may show only the short P8 identifier, while the app provides the corresponding cycle name and additional information.

This is especially useful if another Download Cycle was previously downloaded or the appliance’s Download Cycle configuration has changed.

Why the Cycle Name Should Not Be Assumed

The direct source explains that the Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG appliances to receive updates and that new wash cycles may become available.

Therefore, the important information provided by P8 is that it belongs to the Download Cycle system.

The direct P8 page does not establish a permanent P8 cycle name that can safely be applied to every compatible LG dishwasher.

P8 vs. the Default P1 Cycle

The source provides one specific cycle assignment:

P1 — Pots & Pans

and identifies it as the:

Default Cycle.

For P8, no corresponding cycle name is provided.

Therefore:

P1
→ Pots & Pans
→ Default Download Cycle

P8
→ Download Cycle code
→ Check smartphone app for current cycle name

Neither should be interpreted as a diagnostic fault.

Does P8 Mean Something Is Wrong With the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

If P8 appears while Download Cycle is selected and the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, there is no reason to begin diagnosing internal components.

P8 does not indicate that the dishwasher has detected a mechanical or electrical failure.

P8 vs. an Actual LG Dishwasher Error

The distinction is important:

P8

→ Download Cycle
→ Cycle identifier
→ Not an error
→ No repair normally required

An actual diagnostic error indicates that the dishwasher has detected an abnormal operating condition.

For example:

OE → Drain Error

nE → Vario Motor Error

HE → Heater Error

P8 → Download Cycle identifier

P8 serves a completely different purpose.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P8 Appears?

Normally, no.

Because P8 is not a diagnostic error, there is no fault that needs to be cleared.

Power cycling the dishwasher is therefore not a repair procedure for P8.

If P8 appears unexpectedly, first check:

Selected cycle → Download Cycle → Smartphone app

This can help identify which downloaded program is currently assigned.

Can the P8 Download Cycle Change?

The Download Cycle configuration can change as compatible cycles are downloaded or updated.

The direct source explains that the feature allows the appliance to receive updates and that new wash cycles can become available.

This is another reason to check the smartphone app rather than assigning P8 an unsupported fixed cycle name.

Why P8 May Appear Unexpectedly

If you did not intentionally select P8, first confirm whether the Download Cycle option is currently selected.

A normal sequence can be:

Download Cycle selected
→ Downloaded program currently assigned
→ Dishwasher displays P8

This is different from:

Dishwasher detects malfunction
→ Diagnostic error generated

P8 itself does not report a malfunction.

Does P8 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P8 alone does not indicate that the dishwasher requires service.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if there is a separate operating problem, such as:

  • Dishwasher will not fill
  • Water will not drain
  • Water does not circulate
  • Dishwasher does not heat
  • Dishwasher leaks
  • Cycle stops unexpectedly
  • An actual diagnostic error appears

Those symptoms should be diagnosed independently from the P8 display.

Key Point

P8 is a Download Cycle code. It is not an error code.

The direct P8 source confirms that:

  • Download Cycle is selected.
  • P8 is not a diagnostic error.
  • The displayed code indicates the current Download Cycle.
  • Dedicated cycles can be downloaded through Wi-Fi or NFC.
  • Only the current Download Cycle code appears on the appliance.
  • The smartphone app provides cycle codes, names, and additional information.
  • P1 — Pots & Pans is identified as the default cycle.

The direct page does not provide a specific cycle name for P8.

Therefore:

P8 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for cycle name → Not an error

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, P8 does not require repair.

The P9 message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that the dishwasher’s Download Cycle feature is selected and P9 represents the currently assigned downloaded cycle.

If P9 appears on the display, it normally identifies a downloaded wash program rather than a dishwasher malfunction.

What the P9 Message Means

P9 is a cycle identification code, not a diagnostic fault.

Compatible LG dishwashers can use additional specialized wash programs through the Download Cycle feature. When one of these programs is selected, the dishwasher may display a short code such as:

P9

rather than the complete cycle name.

Therefore:

P9 displayed
→ Download Cycle selected
→ P9 identifies the current downloaded cycle
→ Normal cycle indication
→ Not a dishwasher fault

Is P9 an Error Code?

No.

The direct source explicitly states that this is not an error code. It explains that the displayed code indicates the dishwasher’s current Download Cycle.

P9 does not by itself indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain system
  • Water inlet system
  • Wash or circulation motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Heating system
  • Temperature sensors
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

No dishwasher component should be replaced simply because P9 appears.

What Is the Download Cycle Feature?

The Download Cycle feature allows compatible LG appliances to use additional dedicated cycles.

According to the direct source, these cycles can be downloaded using:

  • Wi-Fi
  • NFC

The source also describes Download Cycle as a feature that allows the appliance to receive updates and additional wash cycles.

Why Does the Dishwasher Display P9?

The direct source explains that only the cycle code for the current Download Cycle appears on the appliance.

Instead of showing the complete name of the downloaded program, the dishwasher may therefore display:

P9

Because LG also uses combinations of letters and numbers for actual diagnostic faults, P9 can easily be mistaken for an error code.

However:

P9 = Download Cycle identifier

not:

P9 = Detected dishwasher failure

What Cycle Does P9 Represent?

The direct P9 source page does not provide a specific universal cycle name for P9.

Instead, it instructs users to check the smartphone app for:

  • Cycle codes
  • Cycle names
  • Additional information about available cycles

Therefore, a specific wash-cycle name should not be assigned to P9 based on this source alone.

The correct interpretation is:

P9 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for current cycle name

Check the Smartphone App

If you want to identify exactly which downloaded cycle P9 represents on a particular dishwasher, check the compatible smartphone app.

LG specifically states that the smartphone app provides the cycle codes, names, and additional information about available cycles.

The dishwasher itself may display only P9, while the app provides the information needed to identify the corresponding program.

Why the Cycle Name Should Not Be Assumed

The Download Cycle feature is designed to provide additional cycle options to compatible appliances.

The direct source states that new wash cycles can become available and describes Download Cycle as a feature that allows the appliance to receive updates.

For this reason, we should not assume that P9 permanently represents a particular named cycle unless a reliable source specifically establishes that relationship.

For this page, the important information is:

P9 belongs to the Download Cycle system and is not a fault code.

P9 vs. the Default P1 Cycle

The direct source provides one specific cycle assignment:

P1 — Pots & Pans

and identifies it as the:

Default Cycle.

For P9, no corresponding cycle name is provided.

Therefore:

P1
→ Pots & Pans
→ Default Download Cycle

P9
→ Download Cycle code
→ Check smartphone app for current cycle name

Neither should automatically be interpreted as a dishwasher malfunction.

Does P9 Mean Something Is Wrong With the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

If P9 appears while Download Cycle is selected and the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, there is no reason to begin troubleshooting internal components.

P9 does not indicate that the dishwasher has detected a mechanical or electrical failure.

P9 vs. an Actual LG Dishwasher Error

The distinction is important:

P9

→ Download Cycle
→ Cycle identifier
→ Not an error
→ No repair normally required

An actual diagnostic error indicates that the dishwasher has detected an abnormal operating condition.

For example:

OE → Drain Error

nE → Vario Motor Error

HE → Heater Error

P9 → Download Cycle identifier

P9 serves a completely different purpose.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher When P9 Appears?

Normally, no.

Because P9 is not a diagnostic error, there is no fault that needs to be cleared.

Power cycling the dishwasher is therefore not a repair procedure for P9.

If P9 appears unexpectedly, first check:

Selected cycle → Download Cycle → Smartphone app

This can help determine which downloaded program is currently assigned.

Can the Download Cycle Change?

Yes.

The direct source states that Download Cycle allows the appliance to receive updates and that new wash cycles can become available.

Therefore, the dishwasher’s Download Cycle configuration can change.

This is another reason to check the smartphone app rather than assigning P9 an unsupported permanent cycle name.

Why P9 May Appear Unexpectedly

If you did not expect P9 to appear, first confirm whether the Download Cycle option has been selected.

A normal sequence can be:

Download Cycle selected
→ Downloaded program currently assigned
→ Dishwasher displays P9

This is different from:

Dishwasher detects malfunction
→ Diagnostic error generated

P9 itself does not report a malfunction.

Does P9 Require Professional Repair?

Normally, no.

P9 alone does not indicate that the dishwasher requires service.

Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if the dishwasher has a separate operating problem, such as:

  • Dishwasher will not fill
  • Water will not drain
  • Water does not circulate
  • Dishwasher does not heat
  • Dishwasher leaks
  • Cycle stops unexpectedly
  • An actual diagnostic error appears

Those symptoms should be diagnosed independently from the P9 display.

Key Point

P9 is a Download Cycle code. It is not an error code.

The direct P9 source confirms that:

  • Download Cycle is selected.
  • The displayed message is not an error code.
  • The code indicates the current Download Cycle.
  • Dedicated cycles can be downloaded via Wi-Fi or NFC.
  • Only the current Download Cycle code appears on the appliance.
  • The smartphone app provides cycle codes, names, and additional information.
  • P1 — Pots & Pans is identified as the Default Cycle.

The direct page does not provide a specific cycle name for P9.

Therefore:

P9 → Download Cycle → Check smartphone app for cycle name → Not an error

If the dishwasher otherwise operates normally, P9 does not require repair.

The PF message indicates that the LG dishwasher experienced a power interruption.

PF means:

Power Failure

However, PF is not a diagnostic error code. It is displayed to inform the user that electrical power was interrupted while the dishwasher was operating.

What the PF Message Means

The dishwasher detected that its incoming 120 VAC power supply was interrupted.

If PF is currently visible on the display, the dishwasher has power again. The message is informing you about a previous interruption rather than indicating that electrical power is currently absent.

The basic sequence is:

Dishwasher powered on
→ Incoming 120 VAC interrupted
→ Power restored
→ Dishwasher displays PF

Is PF an Error Code?

No.

The direct source specifically states that PF:

is not an error but is displayed for customer information.

Therefore, PF by itself does not mean that a dishwasher component has failed.

A single PF message after a known household power outage may simply be normal notification of that event.

When Does PF Appear?

According to the direct source, PF is displayed only when power is interrupted while the dishwasher is powered on.

This distinction is important.

PF does not simply mean:

Dishwasher was previously disconnected from power

Instead, the control detected a power interruption during an active powered state.

Common Causes

The direct source identifies several possible reasons for PF:

  • Dishwasher was unplugged during use
  • Household power failure
  • Bad incoming wiring
  • Loose wire connections at the incoming 120 VAC supply

Therefore, the importance of PF depends heavily on whether the power interruption was expected.

If There Was a Known Power Outage

If the home recently experienced a power outage and PF appeared afterward, the message may simply be reporting that event.

In that situation:

Known power outage
→ Power restored
→ PF displayed
→ Normal informational message

If the dishwasher then operates normally and PF does not repeatedly return, extensive troubleshooting is usually unnecessary.

If PF Appears Without a Known Power Outage

Repeated or unexplained PF messages deserve more attention.

If no household power failure occurred, inspect the dishwasher’s electrical supply for an intermittent interruption.

Possible areas include:

  • Incoming power connection
  • Loose wiring
  • Electrical connections
  • Dishwasher power source

The direct troubleshooting instruction is to check for proper voltage at the customer’s source.

Check the Incoming Power Supply

The dishwasher requires a stable electrical supply.

The source specifies a dedicated electrical circuit rated for:

15 Amps, 120 Volts AC

and states that the dishwasher must be properly grounded.

An unstable or intermittent supply can cause the control to lose power and subsequently display PF when power returns.

PF Does Not Automatically Mean a Bad Main PCB

Do not replace the Main PCB simply because PF appears.

The direct source first points toward the incoming electrical supply, including:

  • Power failure
  • Dishwasher being unplugged
  • Bad wiring
  • Loose incoming connections

The correct approach is therefore to confirm stable incoming power before suspecting an internal electronic failure.

Check for Loose Electrical Connections

If PF repeatedly appears without a known utility outage, loose connections in the dishwasher’s incoming power circuit should be considered.

A poor connection can intermittently interrupt the dishwasher’s 120 VAC supply even though household power appears normal.

Electrical connections should be inspected for signs of:

  • Loose terminals
  • Damaged wiring
  • Burned connections
  • Overheated terminals
  • Poorly secured conductors

Power must be disconnected before inspecting electrical connections.

What Happens After a Power Failure?

The direct source provides an important operational detail:

When a Power Failure occurs and the Power Button is pressed, the dishwasher will return to the previous cycle.

Therefore, PF does not necessarily mean that the previous wash-cycle selection has been lost.

Should You Reset the Dishwasher?

PF itself does not represent a component fault that needs to be cleared through troubleshooting.

If power has been restored, the source indicates that pressing the Power Button allows the dishwasher to return to the previous cycle.

If PF repeatedly returns, however, repeatedly restarting the dishwasher is not a solution.

The underlying power interruption should be identified.

PF After Unplugging the Dishwasher

The source specifically lists the unit being unplugged during usage as a possible cause.

Therefore, PF can be expected if:

Dishwasher is powered on
→ Plug or electrical supply is disconnected
→ Power is restored
→ PF appears

In this situation, the message is correctly reporting the interruption.

PF After a Breaker or Utility Outage

A household electrical outage can also produce PF if it interrupts the dishwasher while the appliance is powered on.

This may include an interruption originating from the home’s electrical supply or utility service.

A one-time PF after a known outage does not by itself indicate that the dishwasher needs repair.

Repeated PF without an identifiable external power event is more significant.

Electrical Circuit Requirements

The direct source specifies:

15 Amps, 120 Volts AC

and requires a properly installed electrical ground.

It also states that the dishwasher should be connected to a properly rated, protected, and sized power circuit to avoid electrical overload.

For permanently connected dishwashers, the appliance must be connected to a grounded permanent wiring system or use an equipment-grounding conductor connected to the dishwasher’s grounding terminal or lead.

Why Proper Grounding Matters

The source specifically requires the appliance to be electrically grounded.

For the terminal-box connection, it instructs that the ground wire be connected to the green ground connector.

Grounding is an electrical safety requirement and should not be bypassed when diagnosing a PF condition.

PF Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

PF displayed
→ Determine whether a household power outage occurred
→ Determine whether dishwasher was unplugged during use
→ Confirm stable incoming 120 VAC supply
→ Inspect incoming electrical connections if PF is unexplained
→ Check for loose or damaged wiring
→ Verify properly rated 15 A / 120 VAC circuit
→ Verify proper grounding
→ Investigate further only if unexplained power interruptions continue

The goal is to determine why electrical power was interrupted, rather than treating PF itself as a failed component.

PF vs. a Dishwasher Fault Code

PF should be distinguished from codes that report an appliance-system malfunction.

For example:

OE
→ Drain Error
→ Drain system requires diagnosis

HE
→ Heater Error
→ Heating system requires diagnosis

nE
→ Vario Motor Error
→ Diverter system requires diagnosis

PF
→ Power Failure
→ Previous power interruption reported
→ Not an error code

This distinction can prevent unnecessary component replacement.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional electrical or appliance diagnosis is recommended when:

  • PF repeatedly appears without known power outages
  • Dishwasher repeatedly loses power
  • Incoming electrical connections are loose or damaged
  • Wiring shows signs of overheating
  • Electrical connections appear burned
  • Dishwasher power cuts in and out
  • The circuit or grounding needs inspection

Electrical wiring and live-voltage testing can present shock and fire hazards and should be handled by qualified personnel.

Key Point

PF means Power Failure, but it is not an LG dishwasher error code.

The message indicates that 120 VAC power was interrupted while the dishwasher was powered on.

Possible causes include:

Power outage → Dishwasher unplugged during use → Bad wiring → Loose incoming 120 VAC connections

The direct source specifies a properly grounded:

15 Amp / 120 Volt AC dedicated circuit.

If PF appears after a known outage, it may simply be an informational message. When the Power Button is pressed after a power failure, the dishwasher returns to the previous cycle.

If PF repeatedly appears without any known power interruption, the incoming electrical supply and wiring should be investigated rather than treating PF as a failed dishwasher component.

The tE error code indicates a problem with the LG dishwasher’s water temperature sensing system.

LG identifies tE as:

Thermistor Error

The Main PCB displays this error when it detects that the thermistor circuit is open or shorted. An excessively high incoming water temperature—approximately 194°F (90°C) or higher—can also cause the condition.

What the tE Error Code Means

The dishwasher uses a thermistor to monitor water temperature.

The thermistor changes electrical resistance as temperature changes. The Main PCB interprets this signal to determine the approximate water temperature during dishwasher operation.

If the signal falls outside the expected electrical range, the control can determine that the thermistor circuit is abnormal and display tE.

The affected system may include:

  • Water temperature thermistor
  • Thermistor wiring harness
  • Electrical connectors
  • Main PCB
  • Incoming hot-water temperature

Therefore:

tE ≠ Automatically Failed Thermistor

The sensor, wiring, connections, incoming water temperature, and control circuit should be checked before replacing components.

Common Causes

Possible causes of tE include:

  • Open thermistor
  • Shorted thermistor
  • Thermistor disconnected
  • Open wiring harness
  • Loose thermistor connection
  • Loose connection at the Main PCB
  • Incoming water temperature at or above 194°F
  • Main PCB sensing problem

The direct diagnostic procedure begins with incoming water temperature and electrical connections before moving to voltage and resistance testing.

Check the Incoming Water Temperature

The first step specified by the direct source is to determine whether the incoming water temperature is:

194°F (90°C) or higher.

If it is, the source instructs that the supplied water temperature should be lowered.

This is important because tE does not necessarily mean that an electrical component has failed.

An excessively hot incoming water supply can itself produce the condition.

Why 194°F Matters

The dishwasher expects the thermistor signal to correspond to a reasonable operating temperature.

If incoming water is already at an abnormally high temperature, the thermistor can produce a reading outside the expected operating range.

Therefore:

tE displayed
→ Check actual water temperature
→ If ≥194°F, correct incoming water temperature
→ Do not automatically replace thermistor

This simple check can prevent unnecessary component replacement.

Check the Thermistor Connections

If incoming water temperature is not excessive, inspect the electrical connections.

The direct source specifically instructs technicians to check for loose connections at:

  • Thermistor
  • Main PCB

A poor connection can interrupt the sensor circuit and create the same electrical condition as a failed thermistor.

Inspect the harness and connectors for:

  • Loose terminals
  • Disconnected plugs
  • Backed-out pins
  • Damaged wiring
  • Corrosion or contamination
  • Broken conductors

Check Thermistor Voltage

The source provides a useful voltage-based diagnostic procedure.

Locate the thermistor harness connection at the Main PCB and, with the dishwasher powered on, measure voltage across the thermistor circuit.

The source gives two important results:

0 VDC → Thermistor is shorted

5 VDC → Thermistor or wiring harness is open, or thermistor is unplugged

These readings help separate different electrical failure conditions.

What a 0 VDC Reading Means

If the thermistor circuit measures:

0 VDC

the direct troubleshooting procedure identifies the thermistor as:

Shorted.

A shorted sensor circuit does not provide the Main PCB with the normal temperature-dependent signal it expects.

This can cause the control to generate tE.

What a 5 VDC Reading Means

If the measurement is:

5 VDC

the source identifies several possibilities:

  • Thermistor is open
  • Wiring harness is open
  • Thermistor is unplugged

This means a 5 VDC reading should not automatically result in thermistor replacement.

The wiring and connections must also be checked.

The diagnostic logic is:

5 VDC measured
→ Check thermistor connection
→ Check wiring continuity
→ Test thermistor resistance
→ Identify whether sensor or harness is open

Check Thermistor Resistance

The thermistor can also be tested by measuring its resistance from the Main PCB.

At room temperature, the direct source specifies:

10–14 kΩ.

This provides another way to evaluate the sensor circuit.

If the resistance is outside the expected range, further testing of the thermistor and wiring is required.

Why Temperature Matters When Measuring Resistance

A thermistor is a temperature-dependent resistor.

Its resistance is expected to change as its temperature changes.

Therefore, the published:

10–14 kΩ

specification specifically applies at room temperature.

It should not be treated as the expected resistance at every water temperature.

This distinction is important when interpreting a thermistor measurement.

Voltage Test vs. Resistance Test

The two tests provide different diagnostic information.

Voltage test

helps identify the electrical state of the sensor circuit:

  • 0 VDC → Shorted
  • 5 VDC → Open / unplugged thermistor or open harness

Resistance test

checks whether the thermistor circuit has an appropriate resistance:

  • 10–14 kΩ at room temperature

Using both tests can help distinguish between a sensor failure and a wiring problem.

Thermistor vs. Wiring Harness

A tE code should not automatically be treated as a defective temperature sensor.

For example:

5 VDC at thermistor circuit

can mean either:

Open thermistor

or:

Open wiring harness / disconnected thermistor.

Therefore, the diagnostic path should include both the sensor and its electrical connection to the Main PCB.

Model-Specific Wiring Information

The direct source includes a wiring diagram example from:

LG LDF5545.

This should be treated as a model-specific example, not as a universal connector or pinout for every LG dishwasher.

LG dishwasher models can differ in:

  • Connector locations
  • Wire colors
  • PCB layouts
  • Harness routing
  • Sensor connections

Always use the service information for the exact dishwasher model when identifying PCB connectors or wiring.

Why the Exact Model Number Matters

The basic tE diagnostic principle is consistent:

Temperature sensor → Wiring → Main PCB

but the physical implementation can vary by dishwasher model.

Before accessing internal wiring or testing at the PCB, confirm the exact model number and appropriate service information.

This is especially important when using wiring diagrams or connector pinouts.

tE vs. HE

tE and HE both involve temperature-related systems, but they indicate different detected conditions.

tE — Thermistor Error

The control detects an abnormal water temperature sensor circuit, such as an open or shorted thermistor.

HE — Heater Error

The dishwasher detects a problem associated with water heating or an overheating condition.

Therefore, tE primarily directs diagnosis toward:

Thermistor → Harness → Connections → Incoming water temperature → Main PCB

rather than immediately toward the heating element.

Can You Clear the tE Code?

Power cycling may temporarily remove tE from the display, but:

Code Cleared ≠ Thermistor Circuit Repaired

If the thermistor remains open or shorted, the wiring remains disconnected, or the temperature condition remains abnormal, tE can return.

Repeated resets do not correct:

  • Shorted thermistor
  • Open thermistor
  • Open harness
  • Loose connection
  • Excessively hot incoming water
  • Control-circuit problem

The underlying cause should be diagnosed.

tE Diagnostic Sequence

A practical diagnostic sequence is:

tE displayed
→ Check incoming water temperature
→ If ≥194°F, lower water-supply temperature
→ Check thermistor connection
→ Check Main PCB connection
→ Inspect wiring harness
→ Measure thermistor circuit voltage
→ 0 VDC = shorted condition
→ 5 VDC = open/unplugged sensor or open harness
→ Measure resistance
→ 10–14 kΩ at room temperature
→ Separate thermistor failure from harness problem
→ Investigate Main PCB only after sensor circuit and wiring are verified

This follows the diagnostic sequence provided by the direct source.

When Professional Diagnosis Is Recommended

Professional diagnosis is recommended when:

  • tE repeatedly returns
  • Incoming water temperature is normal
  • Thermistor resistance requires testing
  • Wiring continuity needs to be checked
  • Voltage measurements at the Main PCB are required
  • Internal connectors or harnesses are damaged
  • Thermistor readings appear normal but tE persists

Testing an energized dishwasher involves electrical hazards. Live-voltage measurements should be performed by a qualified technician.

Key Point

tE means Thermistor Error.

The Main PCB has detected an abnormal condition in the dishwasher’s water temperature sensor circuit.

The most important specifications from the direct source are:

  • Incoming water at or above 194°F (90°C) can cause the condition.
  • 0 VDC → thermistor shorted
  • 5 VDC → thermistor/harness open or thermistor unplugged
  • Thermistor resistance at room temperature: 10–14 kΩ

The diagnostic path is:

Incoming Water Temperature → Thermistor → Connections → Wiring Harness → Main PCB

Do not replace the thermistor based on tE alone. A loose connection, open harness, disconnected sensor, or excessively hot incoming water supply can produce the same error.

The UP message is not an LG dishwasher error code.

It indicates that a software update is available for the dishwasher.

LG identifies UP as:

Unit Update

The message is associated with the dishwasher’s connected features and software rather than a mechanical or electrical component failure. 

What the UP Message Means

When a new software update becomes available for a compatible LG dishwasher, the appliance may display:

UP

This is an informational message telling the user that an update is available.

Therefore:

UP displayed
→ Software update available
→ Use LG ThinQ to perform the update
→ Not a diagnostic fault
→ No appliance repair normally required

Is UP an Error Code?

No.

The direct source explicitly identifies UP as:

Not an Error

and explains that it appears when a new software update is available. 

UP does not by itself indicate a failure of the:

  • Drain pump
  • Wash motor
  • Vario Motor
  • Water inlet valve
  • Heater
  • Thermistor
  • Leak detection system
  • Main PCB

The dishwasher is reporting an available software update rather than a detected hardware malfunction.

What Is a Unit Update?

Modern connected appliances can contain software that controls or supports various appliance functions.

A Unit Update allows compatible dishwasher software to be updated after the appliance has been installed.

When an update becomes available, the dishwasher can display UP to notify the user.

The update process is handled through the dishwasher’s connected functionality rather than through conventional mechanical troubleshooting.

Use the LG ThinQ App

The direct source instructs users to open the LG ThinQ app when UP appears. 

The app is used to manage the available software update for the connected appliance.

A practical sequence is:

UP appears on dishwasher
→ Open LG ThinQ app
→ Select the dishwasher
→ Follow the available update instructions
→ Allow the update process to complete

The exact app interface can change over time, so follow the instructions displayed in the current version of LG ThinQ.

Why Does the Dishwasher Need Software Updates?

Software updates can be used to update the software running on a compatible connected appliance.

UP should therefore be understood differently from diagnostic codes such as OE, HE, or tE.

Those codes indicate that the dishwasher detected an abnormal operating condition.

UP indicates:

Software update available

rather than:

Component failure detected

UP Does Not Mean the Main PCB Has Failed

Because UP relates to software, it can be easy to assume that the dishwasher has a control-board problem.

However, UP by itself does not indicate a failed Main PCB.

There is no reason to replace the control board, user interface, sensor, motor, pump, or other component simply because UP appears.

The first action is to check the update through LG ThinQ.

UP vs. a Diagnostic Error Code

The difference is straightforward:

UP

→ Unit Update
→ Software update available
→ Informational message
→ Not an error

OE

→ Drain Error
→ Drainage system requires diagnosis

HE

→ Heater Error
→ Heating system requires diagnosis

tE

→ Thermistor Error
→ Temperature-sensing circuit requires diagnosis

UP belongs to a completely different category of dishwasher display messages.

What Should You Do When UP Appears?

When UP appears:

  1. Confirm that the dishwasher is a compatible connected model.
  2. Open the LG ThinQ app.
  3. Select the dishwasher.
  4. Check for the available software update.
  5. Follow the instructions provided in the app.
  6. Allow the update process to complete normally.

There is normally no reason to begin mechanical troubleshooting based on UP alone.

Do You Need to Reset the Dishwasher?

Normally, no.

UP is not a diagnostic fault that needs to be cleared with a reset.

Power cycling the dishwasher does not address the purpose of the message because UP is notifying you about an available software update.

Instead:

UP → Check LG ThinQ → Follow update instructions

Should You Disconnect Power During the Update?

Avoid intentionally interrupting power while an appliance software update is being performed.

Follow the instructions provided by LG ThinQ and allow the update process to finish normally.

Interrupting an electronic device while its software is being updated can interfere with the update process.

What If UP Remains on the Display?

If UP remains visible, first check the dishwasher in the LG ThinQ app and determine whether an update is still available or awaiting completion.

Also confirm that the dishwasher’s connected features are functioning as expected.

UP alone should still not be treated as evidence that a mechanical component has failed.

If the update cannot be completed, use the model-specific LG ThinQ or appliance support information for the dishwasher rather than replacing parts based solely on the UP display.

Does UP Require Professional Appliance Repair?

Normally, no.

UP by itself is an informational software-update message.

Professional appliance diagnosis becomes relevant only if the dishwasher has a separate operating problem, such as:

  • Dishwasher will not start
  • Dishwasher will not fill
  • Water will not drain
  • Wash system does not operate
  • Dishwasher does not heat
  • Dishwasher leaks
  • An actual diagnostic error appears

Those problems should be diagnosed independently from UP.

Why the Exact Model Matters

Not every LG dishwasher necessarily supports the same connected features, software-update functions, or app options.

If UP appears, use:

Exact dishwasher model → LG ThinQ → Model-specific instructions

rather than assuming that every LG dishwasher uses an identical update procedure.

Key Point

UP means Unit Update. It is not an error code.

The direct source explains that UP can appear when a new software update is available for the dishwasher and directs the user to the LG ThinQ app to perform the update. 

The correct interpretation is:

UP → Unit Update → Software update available → Open LG ThinQ → Not an error

UP does not by itself indicate a failed pump, motor, sensor, heater, or Main PCB, and normally does not require appliance repair.

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