LG Washer Error Codes & Troubleshooting Guide
Find your LG washer error code and learn what it means, what may be causing it, and which components or systems may need attention. Explore common drain, water supply, door lock, motor, sensor, and control system fault codes with practical troubleshooting guidance.
BROWSE LG ERROR CODES BY APPLIANCE
LG REFRIGERATOR
ERROR CODES
Cooling, defrost, ice maker, sensor & communication fault codes
LG WASHER
ERROR CODES
Drain, spin, water supply, door lock & motor fault codes
LG DRYER
ERROR CODES
Heating, airflow, motor, sensor & control fault codes
LG OVEN & RANGE
ERROR CODES
Temperature, ignition, sensor, door lock & control fault codes
LG DISHWASHER
ERROR CODES
Drain, fill, heating, leak & circulation fault codes
On This Page
- How LG Washer Error Codes Work
- What an LG Washer Error Code Can Tell You
- An Error Code Does Not Always Mean a Part Has Failed
- Why LG Washer Error Codes Can Vary by Model
- What to Do When an Error Code Appears
- Can You Clear an LG Washer Error Code?
- When an Error Code Requires Professional Diagnosis
- Find Your LG Washer Error Code
- 1F — Filter Missing Error
- AE — Leak Error
- bE — Ball Sensor Error
- bU — Heavy Vibration Error
- Cd — Cool Down
- CE — Over Current Error
- CL — Control Lock
- CO1 — Wi-Fi Program Version
- dE — Door Error
- dE1 — Door Open Error
- dE2 — Door Not Locked Error
- dE4 — Door Open Error
- dHE — Dry Heater Error
- dr — Drain Feature
- Ed1 — ezDispense Detergent Error
- Ed2 — ezDispense Detergent Pump Error
- Ed3 — ezDispense Softener Error
- Ed4 — ezDispense Softener Pump Error
- Ed5 — ezDispense Communication Error
- EE — EEPROM Error
- F1 — Temperature Too High Error
- FE — Overfill Error
- IE — Inlet Error
- LE — Locked Rotor Error
- LE1 — Fan Motor Error
- LE2 — Compressor Error
- LE3 — Drying Blower Fan Motor Error
- LOE — Lid Open Error
- nC — NFC Module Error
- nE — Modem Is Abnormal Error
- nF — Wi-Fi Not Connected to Router
- nU — NFC Module Error
- OE — Outlet / Drain Pump Error
- OPn — Open Dispenser Drawer Error
- PE — Pressure Sensor Error
- PF — Power Failure
- PS — Supplied Voltage Is Not Correct
- Sud — Suds Error
- tcL — Tub Clean Cycle
- tE — Thermistor Error
- tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
- tE2 — Compressor Inlet Temperature Error
- tE3 — Condenser Outlet Temperature Error
- tE4 — Evaporator Inlet Temperature Error
- tE5 — Duct Outlet Temperature Error
- Ub — Unbalance Detected
- UE — Unbalanced Error
- u5 — Vibration Sensor Error
- UP — ThinQ UP Feature
Understanding LG Washer Error Codes
Modern LG washing machines use electronic control boards, water-level sensors, temperature sensors, motors, pumps, door-lock systems, and other components to monitor washer operation.
When the control system detects an abnormal condition, it may display an error code on the control panel. Depending on the model, an LG washer error code may indicate a problem involving water supply, drainage, the door-lock system, motor operation, water level, temperature sensing, electrical circuits, or communication between electronic components.
An error code can provide an important starting point for troubleshooting, but it should not automatically be interpreted as confirmation that a specific component has failed.
For example, a drain-related error may be caused by a clogged drain filter or hose, but it can also result from a failed drain pump, damaged wiring, an abnormal water-level signal, or another condition that prevents the washer from draining within the expected time.
Understanding what the code represents can help narrow down the system that needs to be checked.
How LG Washer Error Codes Work
The main control board continuously receives information from sensors, switches, motors, and other components throughout the washer.
Depending on the model, the control system may monitor:
- Water supply and fill time
- Water level
- Drain operation
- Door or lid lock status
- Drum and motor operation
- Load balance
- Water temperature
- Heating system operation
- Water leaks or overflow conditions
- Communication between electronic modules
When the control receives a signal outside the expected operating range—or does not receive an expected signal—it may store or display an error code.
Some codes appear immediately, while others may only appear after the washer has attempted to perform a function several times or has exceeded a programmed time limit.
This is why an error code should generally be viewed as diagnostic information about a system or operating condition, rather than an automatic instruction to replace a particular part.
What an LG Washer Error Code Can Tell You
An LG washer error code is a diagnostic message generated when the washer’s electronic control system detects an operating condition outside the expected range.
Depending on the model and code, the message may point to a problem involving water supply, drainage, door locking, motor operation, water level, temperature sensing, heating, load balance, or communication between electronic components.
What the Code Actually Identifies
In many cases, an error code identifies a system, circuit, or operating condition rather than a specific failed component.
For example, a drain-related code may indicate that the washer did not reduce the water level within the expected amount of time. That condition could potentially be caused by:
- A clogged drain pump filter
- A kinked or blocked drain hose
- A foreign object inside the pump
- A weak or failed drain pump
- Damaged pump wiring
- An abnormal water-level signal
- An electronic control problem
The code tells you where to begin troubleshooting, but further diagnosis may be required to determine the actual cause.
Symptoms Still Matter
Pay attention to what the washer was doing immediately before the code appeared.
Useful observations include:
- Did the washer fill with water?
- Did the drum begin turning?
- Is water still inside the tub?
- Did the door lock?
- Can you hear the drain pump?
- Did the code appear during wash, rinse, drain, or spin?
- Did the washer stop with a wet load?
- Did the problem begin suddenly or become progressively worse?
Combining the displayed code with the washer’s symptoms often provides much more diagnostic information than the code alone.
An Error Code Does Not Always Mean a Part Has Failed
One of the most important things to understand about LG washer error codes is that a code does not automatically prove that the component associated with that system has failed.
The control board usually determines that something abnormal happened by monitoring sensor signals, operating time, electrical feedback, or whether a commanded function was completed successfully.
It may not be able to determine the exact physical reason for the abnormal condition.
One Code Can Have Several Possible Causes
For example, if the washer detects a drainage problem, possible causes may include:
- Blocked pump filter
- Restricted drain hose
- Foreign object in the drainage system
- Failed drain pump
- Loose electrical connector
- Damaged wiring
- Incorrect water-level feedback
- Control-board problem
Replacing the drain pump simply because a drain-related code appears could therefore result in an unnecessary repair.
The same principle applies to fill, motor, door-lock, sensor, heating, and communication errors.
External Conditions Can Also Trigger Codes
Some error conditions can be caused by factors outside the washer itself.
Examples may include:
- Household water supply turned off
- Low water pressure
- Frozen or kinked inlet hose
- Household drain restriction
- Incorrect drain-hose installation
- Excessive detergent or suds
- Severely unbalanced load
- Power interruption
These conditions can sometimes produce symptoms that resemble a component failure.
Diagnose the System, Not Just the Code
A good troubleshooting process asks:
What condition did the washer detect, and what could cause that condition?
That approach is more reliable than treating every code as an instruction to replace a particular component.
Why LG Washer Error Codes Can Vary by Model
LG has produced many washer platforms, including front-load washers, top-load washers, washer-dryer combinations, WashTower systems, and models with different motors, sensors, pumps, heating systems, and electronic controls.
Because of these design differences, not every LG washer supports the same error codes.
The Same Brand Does Not Mean the Same Diagnostic System
A code found on one LG washer may:
- Not exist on another model
- Apply only to certain washer platforms
- Be displayed differently
- Have model-specific diagnostic procedures
- Involve different components depending on the design
Some newer models may also monitor systems that older washers do not.
Front-Load and Top-Load Washers Can Differ
Front-load and top-load washers use different mechanical arrangements and may monitor different operating conditions.
For example, door-lock operation on a front-load washer and lid-lock operation on a top-load washer perform related safety functions but use different mechanisms.
Motor, suspension, water-level, drain, and load-balance diagnostics may also differ between platforms.
Always Identify the Model Number
Before ordering parts or performing advanced troubleshooting, locate the washer’s complete model number.
The model number allows you to verify:
- Correct error-code definition
- Correct replacement components
- Wiring diagrams
- Service procedures
- Diagnostic or test modes
- Model-specific technical information
Two LG washers that look nearly identical from the outside may use different components internally.
For this reason, the information in this guide should be used as a troubleshooting starting point, while model-specific service information should be used when exact component testing is required.
What to Do When an Error Code Appears
When your LG washer displays an error code, avoid immediately resetting the machine or replacing a component.
The code and the conditions surrounding it can provide valuable diagnostic information.
1. Record the Exact Code
Write down or photograph the code exactly as it appears on the display.
Pay attention to similar-looking characters such as:
1andI0andO5andS
Washer displays can sometimes make these characters difficult to distinguish.
2. Note When the Code Appeared
Determine which part of the cycle was running.
For example:
- During filling
- During washing
- During draining
- During rinsing
- During spin
- Immediately after Start
- Near the end of the cycle
This can significantly narrow the possible causes.
3. Observe the Washer
Before disconnecting power, look and listen.
Check whether:
- Water is entering the washer
- Water remains inside the drum
- The drum is turning
- The drain pump can be heard
- The door or lid is locked
- Unusual noises are present
- Water is leaking
- There is an unusual odor
These observations may disappear after the washer is reset.
4. Check Simple External Conditions
Depending on the code, inspect basic conditions such as:
- Water supply valves
- Inlet hoses
- Drain hose
- Household drain
- Load distribution
- Detergent amount and type
- Door or lid closure
- Power supply
Do not disassemble the washer unless you understand the required procedure and safety precautions.
5. Look Up the Exact Code
Use the LG washer error-code list below to determine what system or operating condition the code represents.
Then follow troubleshooting appropriate for that particular code and washer model.
Can You Clear an LG Washer Error Code?
Some LG washer error codes may disappear after the condition that caused them has been corrected. Others may return as soon as the washer detects the same problem again.
Resetting the washer can sometimes clear a temporary electronic condition, but a reset does not repair a mechanical, electrical, or plumbing failure.
Basic Power Reset
When appropriate for the model and condition, a basic reset may involve:
- Turn the washer off.
- Disconnect it from electrical power.
- Wait several minutes.
- Restore power.
- Start an appropriate cycle and observe operation.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific washer when a particular reset procedure is provided.
When a Reset May Help
A reset may be useful after:
- A temporary power interruption
- A brief electronic control disturbance
- An operating condition that has already been corrected
- A cycle that was unexpectedly interrupted
However, the fact that the code disappears temporarily does not prove the problem has been solved.
When the Code Comes Back
If the same error returns, the washer is likely detecting the abnormal condition again.
For example, repeatedly resetting a washer with a blocked drain hose will not remove the blockage.
Likewise, a reset cannot repair:
- Failed drain pump
- Defective water valve
- Damaged door lock
- Failed sensor
- Motor problem
- Broken wiring
- Failed electronic component
If a code repeatedly returns, diagnose the system associated with the code rather than continuing to reset the appliance.
When an Error Code Requires Professional Diagnosis
Some LG washer error codes can be caused by simple conditions that a homeowner can safely check.
Others involve internal electrical circuits, motors, pumps, sensors, heating components, wiring, or electronic control boards that require testing.
Professional Diagnosis May Be Recommended When:
- The same code repeatedly returns
- The washer will not drain
- The washer will not fill
- The drum will not rotate
- The washer will not enter high-speed spin
- The door remains locked
- Water is leaking from inside the machine
- The circuit breaker repeatedly trips
- There is a burning smell
- Wiring or connectors appear damaged
- Multiple unrelated error codes appear
- A motor or control-system code returns after resetting
- The washer requires internal electrical testing
What a Technician May Check
Depending on the error, diagnosis may include:
- Stored error-code history
- Service diagnostic mode
- Component resistance
- Supply and control voltage
- Sensor signals
- Drain pump operation
- Water inlet valve operation
- Door or lid lock feedback
- Water-level sensing
- Motor operation and position feedback
- Wiring and connectors
- Main control-board inputs and outputs
The exact procedure depends on the washer model and the code being diagnosed.
Why Proper Diagnosis Matters
Modern washers contain interconnected electronic and mechanical systems.
A failed component can produce an error code, but damaged wiring, incorrect sensor feedback, mechanical restrictions, or another system fault can sometimes create the same result.
Proper diagnosis helps identify the actual failure before parts are replaced.
Find Your LG Washer Error Code
Use the list below to find the error code displayed on your LG washing machine.
Each code section explains:
- What the code means
- Which system is affected
- Common possible causes
- What you can safely check
- What may require professional diagnosis
Error codes and diagnostic procedures can vary by LG washer model, so verify the complete model number before ordering replacement parts or performing component-level testing.
If your code is not listed—or if the displayed characters are difficult to identify—record exactly what appears on the control panel and check the model-specific documentation.
Select your LG washer error code below to begin troubleshooting.
1F — Filter Missing Error
The 1F (IF) error code on an LG washer indicates that the lint filter is missing or that the washer cannot detect the filter correctly.
This code applies to LG washer models equipped with a removable lint filter and a filter-detection system, such as certain washer-dryer combo models.
A magnet built into the lint filter activates a reed switch located inside the vent-duct housing. When the filter is installed correctly, the control system receives confirmation that the filter is in place.
If the filter is removed, installed incorrectly, or the washer does not receive the expected signal from the reed switch, the 1F / IF code may appear and the machine may not start.
Common Causes
Possible causes include:
- Lint filter is not installed
- Lint filter is not fully or correctly seated
- Filter was removed for cleaning and not reinstalled
- Magnet in the lint filter is missing, damaged, or incorrectly positioned
- Reed switch does not detect the filter
- Faulty lint-filter reed switch
- Loose or damaged wiring in the filter-detection circuit
- Control system does not receive the expected filter-presence signal
The 1F code does not necessarily mean the reed switch has failed. A missing or improperly installed filter should be checked first.
What You Can Check
- Check that the lint filter is installed.
Make sure the removable lint filter has not been left out after cleaning or maintenance. - Remove and reinstall the filter.
Take the lint filter out, inspect it, and reinstall it completely in its proper position. - Clean the lint filter.
Remove accumulated lint and debris before reinstalling the filter. Make sure nothing prevents it from seating correctly. - Inspect the filter for damage.
Check the filter housing for cracks, deformation, or other damage that could prevent correct positioning. - Check whether the code clears.
After correctly reinstalling the filter, restart the washer and check whether the1Fcode disappears.
Do not bypass the filter-detection system or operate the appliance without the required lint filter.
If the 1F Code Returns
If 1F continues to appear even though the lint filter is correctly installed, the filter-detection system may require further diagnosis.
A technician may need to:
- Verify that the filter’s magnet is present and correctly positioned
- Check operation of the lint-filter reed switch
- Test the reed switch for continuity
- Inspect wiring and electrical connectors
- Verify the filter-presence signal reaching the control system
- Inspect the vent-duct filter housing
- Evaluate the applicable electronic control circuit
Because the 1F / IF Filter Missing Error is associated with the lint-filter system used on specific LG washer and washer-dryer combo models, the exact diagnostic procedure should be verified using the complete model number.
AE — Leak Error / Heat Pump Compressor Error
The AE error code on an LG washer can have different meanings depending on the washer design.
On a standard LG front-load washer, AE indicates a Leak Error. The washer has detected a condition associated with water in the base of the machine or an abnormal signal from the flood safety system.
On certain LG heat-pump washer/dryer combo models, however, AE can indicate a locked compressor in the heat-pump system.
Because these are completely different faults, identifying the exact washer model is important before troubleshooting the AE code.
AE on a Standard Front-Load Washer — Leak Error
On a standard LG front-load washer, the AE code is associated with the Flood Safety Switch.
If water collects in the base of the washer, the safety system can detect the condition and display the AE error. When this happens, the washer may also activate the drain pump in an attempt to remove water.
The presence of AE does not necessarily mean that the safety switch itself has failed. The first step is determining whether water is actually present and, if so, where it came from.
Common Causes
Possible causes include:
- Water leaking into the base of the washer
- Damaged or leaking tub
- Loose, cracked, or damaged internal hose
- Leaking hose connection
- Flood safety switch activated by water
- Object or debris interfering with the safety-switch float
- Damaged wire or wiring harness
- Faulty flood safety switch
- Electrical connection problem in the leak-detection circuit
The source specifically notes that even when no water is present, a broken wire or harness—or something trapped underneath the float—can cause the AE condition.
What You Can Check
- Stop the washer if there is visible water.
If water is leaking from the appliance, discontinue normal operation until the source of the leak has been identified. - Look for signs of a leak.
Check around and underneath the washer for visible water. - Inspect accessible hoses.
Look for loose connections, cracks, damage, or signs of water around the washer’s hoses. - Consider when the error occurs.
Note whether AE appears during filling, washing, draining, or another part of the cycle. The timing may help identify where the leak originates. - Check for excessive water or unusual operation.
If the washer appears to fill abnormally, leak internally, or continuously operate the drain pump, further diagnosis may be required.
Avoid repeatedly resetting and operating the washer when there is evidence of an active internal leak.
If the AE Code Returns
If AE continues to appear on a standard front-load washer, the leak-detection system and the washer’s internal water-carrying components should be inspected.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect the tub and internal hoses for leaks or damage
- Locate the source of water in the washer base
- Inspect the flood-safety float mechanism
- Check for debris or foreign objects beneath the float
- Test the Flood Safety Switch
- Inspect the switch wiring and harness
- Verify the safety-switch signal to the main control board
- Inspect related connectors and control circuitry
The source specifies that the safety switch is a normally open switch and provides a 5 VDC signal to the main board, making electrical testing useful when no physical leak can be found.
AE on Heat Pump Washer/Dryer Combo Models
On certain LG heat-pump washer/dryer combo models, AE has a completely different meaning.
In this application, the code can indicate that the heat-pump compressor is locked. This is not the same leak-detection fault used on a standard front-load washer.
Diagnosis may require:
- Checking compressor operation
- Testing compressor windings
- Inspecting compressor wiring and connectors
- Checking the inverter/compressor circuit
- Performing model-specific heat-pump diagnostics
The source uses the LG WM6998 as an example of a heat-pump combo equipped with a 240-volt inverter BLDC compressor and provides model-specific compressor resistance specifications. Those values should not automatically be applied to other LG models.
Before Replacing Any Parts
Always verify the complete LG model number before diagnosing an AE error.
For a standard front-load washer, begin with the leak and Flood Safety Switch system.
For a heat-pump washer/dryer combo, determine whether the model uses AE as a compressor-related diagnostic code.
Because the same displayed code can represent two fundamentally different systems, replacing a component based on the AE code alone can lead to an incorrect repair.
bE — Ball Sensor Error
The bE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Ball Sensor Error. The ball sensor is part of the load-balance detection system used on certain older LG washer models.
The sensor detects excessive tub movement or vibration. When the tub moves far enough to activate the sensor, the washer can interrupt drum rotation and attempt to redistribute and rebalance the load.
According to LG service information, the ball sensor was used primarily on older models produced around 2006 and earlier, so this code does not apply to most newer LG washers. The bE code is also displayed only during Test Modeon applicable models.
How the Ball Sensor Works
The ball sensor contains a small internal ball positioned between an LED and a phototransistor.
During normal operation, the ball blocks the light path. If excessive tub movement or vibration moves the ball from its normal position, light can reach the phototransistor.
The washer interprets this signal as excessive movement and can stop drum rotation before attempting to rebalance the load.
This means that activation of the sensor does not automatically indicate that the sensor itself has failed. The washer may simply have experienced enough vibration to trigger the balance-detection system.
Common Causes
Possible causes include:
- Washer experienced excessive vibration
- Severely unbalanced laundry load
- Ball sensor activated by excessive tub movement
- Loose connection at the ball sensor
- Poor connection at the main control board
- Damaged wiring between the sensor and control board
- Faulty ball sensor
Because the sensor responds to tub movement, a temporary balance problem can sometimes trigger the system without an actual component failure.
What You Can Check
- Check whether the drum turns normally.
Verify that the drum can rotate and that the washer is able to enter a spin cycle. - Redistribute the laundry.
If the load became concentrated on one side of the drum, redistribute the items and try the cycle again. - Observe the next spin attempt.
If the washer resumes normal spinning after redistributing the load, the washer may have successfully corrected the unbalanced condition. - Check for excessive vibration.
Make sure the washer is stable and does not move excessively during operation. - Consider the age and model of the washer.
Since the ball sensor was primarily installed on older LG washers, verify the complete model number before assuming that the machine uses this system.
If the bE Code Appears in Test Mode
LG’s diagnostic procedure specifically associates the bE display with Test Mode.
During model-specific diagnostic testing, if bE appears after the applicable Test Mode command, the ball-sensor circuit should be checked.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect the connection at the ball sensor
- Inspect the connection at the main control board
- Check the associated wiring and connectors
- Verify ball-sensor operation
- Perform the model-specific Test Mode procedure
- Replace the ball sensor if the circuit and connections are good but the sensor fails testing
LG’s service procedure specifically directs technicians to check the connections at the Main Board and Stator/Ball Sensor before replacing the sensor.
Before Replacing the Ball Sensor
Do not replace the ball sensor based only on evidence that the washer experienced an unbalanced load.
If the drum returns to normal spin operation, the balance condition may have corrected itself.
If bE repeatedly appears during Test Mode, however, and the wiring and connections are confirmed to be good, the ball sensor itself may require replacement.
Because this system is primarily found on older LG washer designs, use the complete model number and model-specific service information before ordering parts or performing component-level diagnosis.
bU — Heavy Vibration Error
The bU error code on an LG washer indicates a Heavy Vibration Error. The washer has detected an abnormal level of vibration that may be caused by a mechanical problem with the drum, an incorrectly installed vibration sensor, or improper installation or leveling of the appliance.
This code should not automatically be treated as a simple unbalanced-load warning. On applicable models, the vibration monitoring system can detect conditions that may indicate a problem with the drum assembly or washer installation.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the bU error include:
- Damaged or broken inner drum welds
- Mechanical damage to the inner drum
- Vibration sensor not mounted correctly to the outer tub
- Improper washer installation
- Washer not properly leveled
- Uneven or unstable flooring
- Excessive movement of the appliance during operation
The source specifically recommends checking the inner drum welds first, followed by the vibration sensor and then the washer installation and leveling.
What You Can Check
- Stop the washer if vibration is severe.
If the washer is shaking violently, making unusual mechanical noises, or the drum appears unstable, discontinue operation until the cause has been identified. - Check that the washer is level.
Make sure all feet are firmly contacting the floor and the appliance does not rock from side to side. - Inspect the floor.
The washer should be installed on a stable, reasonably level surface. Uneven flooring can allow excessive movement during high-speed spin. - Check the drum for unusual movement.
With the washer turned off, inspect the inner drum for obvious looseness, deformation, or abnormal movement. - Look for visible drum damage.
If accessible, visually inspect the inner drum for signs of damaged or separated welds. - Consider the load.
Redistribute an unusually heavy or concentrated load before testing the washer again. However, ifbUrepeatedly returns under normal loads, do not assume that laundry distribution is the only cause.
Inner Drum Welds
LG’s troubleshooting sequence begins with an inspection of the inner drum welds.
If a weld has broken or separated, the drum may no longer rotate normally and can produce excessive vibration during operation.
If damaged welds are found, the source recommends replacement of the affected tub/drum assembly and any additional components damaged as a result.
This is a mechanical failure rather than something that can normally be corrected by resetting or leveling the washer.
Vibration Sensor
If the drum welds are intact, the next component to inspect is the vibration sensor.
The sensor must be correctly mounted to the outer tub. If it is loose, displaced, or installed incorrectly, the washer may receive an abnormal vibration signal even when the drum itself is not damaged.
The sensor and its mounting should therefore be verified before replacing electronic components.
If the bU Code Returns
If the washer is properly leveled and no obvious installation problem is present, repeated bU errors require further inspection of the drum and vibration-monitoring system.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect the inner drum and welds for structural damage
- Check the tub and drum assembly for related damage
- Verify that the vibration sensor is mounted correctly
- Inspect the vibration sensor and its connections
- Check the washer installation and leveling
- Evaluate the floor and support conditions
- Perform model-specific diagnostic procedures
On applicable WashTower models, the source also describes clearing the stored error through LQC Mode after the underlying condition has been addressed. Simply clearing the code does not repair the cause of excessive vibration.
Model Compatibility
The bU Heavy Vibration Error is not used across all LG washers.
The source states that, as of February 27, 2025, the code was limited to certain WashTower models and notes that it may be added to additional models in the future. Therefore, always verify the complete model number before applying model-specific diagnostic procedures or ordering parts.
Cd — Cool Down (Not an Error)
The Cd code on an LG front-load washer is not an error code. It stands for Cool Down and indicates that the appliance has entered a programmed cool-down period at the end of the cycle.
When the programmed temperature has been reached, the heater turns off. The display may initially show approximately 5 minutes remaining, and Cd can then appear at the end of the cycle while the Cool Down function continues.
This is normal operation and does not, by itself, indicate a failed heater, temperature sensor, control board, or other component.
What Happens During Cool Down
During the Cool Down period, the appliance does not simply remain stationary.
According to the LG diagnostic information, the drum tumbles intermittently:
- Approximately 4.5 minutes without tumbling
- Approximately 30 seconds of tumbling
- Drum movement alternates between clockwise and counterclockwise directions
The Cool Down function can continue for up to four hours.
This intermittent tumbling is part of the programmed operation and should not be mistaken for the washer repeatedly attempting to restart a completed cycle.
Why Cd Appears
The Cd indication generally appears because:
- The programmed temperature has been reached
- The heater has turned off
- The cycle has reached its ending stage
- The appliance has entered the programmed Cool Down function
- Intermittent tumbling is continuing after the main cycle
In other words, there is normally nothing that needs to be repaired when Cd appears by itself.
Does the Thermistor End Cool Down?
No. According to the source, thermistor temperature does not terminate the Cool Down function.
This is an important distinction because a homeowner may assume that the appliance continues tumbling because it is still detecting excessive temperature.
The Cool Down period is a programmed operating function rather than a fault condition that remains active until the thermistor reaches a particular temperature.
What You Can Check
If Cd appears at the end of the cycle:
- Do not assume the washer has developed a fault.
Cd is a normal operating indication. - Allow the Cool Down function to operate.
Intermittent drum movement during this period is expected. - Do not replace parts because of Cd alone.
The indication does not by itself point to a failed heater, thermistor, motor, or control board. - Check the owner’s manual for your model.
LG notes that customer-specific information about the Cool Down function can be found in the appliance owner’s manual.
When Should Cd Be Investigated?
The presence of Cd alone normally does not require professional diagnosis.
Further troubleshooting may be appropriate only if the appliance also exhibits an actual malfunction, such as:
- Cycle does not complete normally
- Drum does not operate as expected
- Appliance displays another error code
- Unusual noises or odors occur
- Heating or drying performance is abnormal
- Appliance becomes unresponsive
In those situations, diagnosis should focus on the accompanying symptom or error code rather than treating Cd itself as a failure.
Key Point
Cd means Cool Down — it is a normal operating status, not an LG washer error code.
The function may remain active for up to four hours and can intermittently tumble the drum during that period. If the appliance is otherwise operating normally, no repair is required.
CE — Over Current Error
The CE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an Over Current Error. The washer’s main control board has detected abnormally high current associated with the stator and drive-motor system.
This code can appear when the motor requires excessive current to rotate the drum or when an electrical problem causes abnormal current in the stator circuit.
Because excessive motor current can be caused by either a mechanical restriction or an electrical problem, the CE code does not automatically mean that the stator or main control board has failed.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the CE error include:
- Foreign object restricting drum movement
- Drum that is difficult to rotate
- Worn or damaged tub bearings
- Stator or motor electrical problem
- Loose connection at the stator
- Loose or damaged connection at the main control board
- Damaged wiring or connectors in the motor circuit
- Abnormally high electrical load on the drive system
The first diagnostic distinction is whether the drum can rotate freely by hand. LG’s troubleshooting information specifically uses this check to separate a possible mechanical restriction from a stator-related problem.
What You Can Check
- Turn the washer off and disconnect power.
Do not inspect drum movement while the washer is operating. - Try rotating the drum by hand.
The drum should rotate without a severe mechanical restriction. - Listen and feel for abnormal resistance.
Grinding, scraping, binding, or unusually heavy resistance can indicate that something is interfering with drum movement. - Check for trapped objects.
A foreign object can sometimes become lodged in a way that restricts the drum and increases the load on the motor. - Do not repeatedly operate a washer with a restricted drum.
Continued attempts to run the motor against a mechanical restriction may place additional stress on the drive system.
If the drum rotates normally but CE returns, electrical diagnosis of the motor system may be necessary.
If the Drum Does Not Spin Freely
According to the LG diagnostic procedure, if the drum does not rotate freely by hand, it should first be inspected for an object restricting its movement.
If an obstruction is found, it should be removed before further testing.
If no foreign object or other obvious restriction is found, the tub bearings may be damaged or failing. Bearing problems can increase the mechanical resistance placed on the drive motor, which in turn can produce abnormally high motor current.
Other symptoms of bearing problems may include:
- Grinding or rumbling during rotation
- Excessive noise during high-speed spin
- Rough drum movement
- Increasing resistance when the drum is turned by hand
Bearing diagnosis generally requires further disassembly and mechanical inspection.
If the Drum Spins Freely
If the drum rotates freely and there is no obvious mechanical restriction, the next area to investigate is the stator and its electrical circuit.
LG’s diagnostic information specifically instructs technicians to check the stator when the drum turns freely.
Diagnosis may include:
- Inspecting the stator
- Checking stator windings
- Inspecting electrical connectors
- Checking the wiring harness
- Verifying connections at the main control board
- Checking for damaged, overheated, or loose terminals
- Performing model-specific motor-system electrical tests
Component specifications can vary between washer models, so resistance or voltage measurements should be compared with service information for the exact model.
If the CE Code Returns
If CE returns after the washer has been restarted, especially when the drum rotates freely by hand, the motor circuit should be professionally diagnosed rather than repeatedly resetting the appliance.
A technician may need to:
- Check connections at the Main Board
- Check connections at the Stator
- Inspect the motor wiring harness
- Test the stator electrically
- Check for mechanical drag from the drum or bearings
- Inspect the drive system for abnormal resistance
- Verify main control board operation
- Run model-specific diagnostic tests
The source specifically recommends a visual inspection of the connections at both the Main Board and Statorbefore proceeding with further diagnosis.
Before Replacing the Stator or Main Board
Do not replace the stator simply because the washer displays CE.
An Over Current Error describes the electrical condition detected by the control board, not necessarily the component responsible for creating that condition.
A mechanically restricted drum can increase motor current even when the stator itself is functioning correctly. Conversely, if the drum rotates freely, the stator, wiring, connections, and associated control circuit become more important diagnostic targets.
The correct sequence is therefore to check drum movement first, eliminate mechanical restrictions, inspect the electrical connections, and then test the stator and drive system as required.
CL — Control Lock / Child Lock (Not an Error)
The CL code on an LG front-load washer is not an error code. It indicates that the Control Lock (Child Lock)function is currently enabled.
Control Lock is designed to prevent unwanted operation of the washer or accidental changes to cycle settings. When the function is active, most controls are disabled until Control Lock is turned off.
If your LG washer displays CL, it usually does not indicate a failed component or a problem that requires repair.
What CL Means
When Control Lock is activated, the washer restricts access to the control panel.
On applicable models, the display may alternate between:
CL- The remaining cycle time
The source states that all controls except the Control Lock and Power buttons are disabled while the function is active. Control Lock can also remain enabled after the cycle has finished, which is why CL may still appear the next time the washer is used.
Why CL Appears
The CL indication normally appears because:
- Control Lock has been intentionally activated
- Control Lock was activated accidentally
- The function remained enabled after the previous cycle
- A control button associated with the lock function was pressed or held
In normal circumstances, no component replacement or diagnostic repair is required.
How to Turn Off CL
On many LG washer models, Control Lock is activated and deactivated by pressing and holding the button associated with the Child Lock / Control Lock function for approximately three seconds.
However, the exact button can vary by model.
The Control Lock function may be shown as a secondary function underneath one of the main control-panel buttons, rather than having its own dedicated button.
Look for:
Control LockChild Lock- A lock symbol
- A secondary label underneath a control button
Press and hold the appropriate button according to the instructions for your washer model.
What You Can Check
If CL is displayed:
- Do not assume the washer has failed.
CL normally indicates an active control-panel lock. - Look for the Control Lock or Child Lock marking.
Check the control panel for a lock symbol or secondary Control Lock function. - Press and hold the appropriate button.
On many models, holding the designated button for approximately three seconds disables the function. - Check whether CL disappears.
Once Control Lock is disabled, normal control-panel operation should return. - Check the owner’s manual if necessary.
The exact activation/deactivation procedure can vary between LG models.
If CL Will Not Turn Off
If you are using the correct model-specific procedure but CL remains displayed, further troubleshooting may be necessary.
First confirm that you are pressing the correct button. Because Control Lock is often a secondary button function, it can be easy to use the wrong control.
If the correct procedure does not disable Control Lock, possible areas to investigate include:
- Control-panel button not responding
- Damaged or sticking user-interface button
- Control-panel problem
- Display/user-interface problem
- Wiring or connector problem
- Electronic control issue
The source also recommends verifying the exact model number when the normal three-second procedure does not work, because the Control Lock procedure can differ by model.
Does CL Require Professional Repair?
Normally, no.
If CL disappears after Control Lock is disabled and the washer operates normally, no repair is necessary.
Professional diagnosis may be appropriate if:
- The correct Control Lock procedure does not work
- Control-panel buttons do not respond
- CL activates unexpectedly or repeatedly
- The user interface behaves abnormally
- Other error codes or operating problems are present
In these cases, the problem is not the CL indication itself—the underlying control-panel or electronic issue needs to be diagnosed.
Key Point
CL means Control Lock / Child Lock and is not an LG washer error code.
It is a normal feature designed to prevent unwanted operation or changes to washer settings. On many models, it can be disabled by holding the designated Control Lock button for approximately three seconds, but the exact procedure should be verified for the specific LG washer model.
CO1 — Wi-Fi Program Version (Not an Error)
The CO1 code on an LG front-load washer is not an error code. It indicates the Wi-Fi program version installed in the washer.
If CO1 appears during diagnostic testing, it does not mean that the Wi-Fi module, main control board, or communication system has failed.
According to LG diagnostic information, the displayed Wi-Fi program version can change as different software versions are used. CO1 is displayed only in Test Mode.
What CO1 Means
LG washers equipped with Wi-Fi connectivity use software that allows the appliance’s Wi-Fi module to communicate with supported connected features.
During Test Mode, the washer can display information related to the installed Wi-Fi software version.
CO1 is one such informational display.
It should therefore be interpreted as service or diagnostic information rather than a fault condition.
Does CO1 Mean the Wi-Fi Module Has Failed?
No.
The presence of CO1 by itself does not indicate a problem with the Wi-Fi module. The LG error-code reference specifically states that there is no problem with the Wi-Fi module when this indication is displayed.
You should not replace:
- The Wi-Fi module
- Main control board
- User interface
- Wiring or communication components
simply because CO1 appears during Test Mode.
Why CO1 Appears
The CO1 indication normally appears because:
- The washer has been placed into Test Mode
- The diagnostic sequence has reached the Wi-Fi program information
- The washer is displaying its Wi-Fi program version
This is expected diagnostic behavior on applicable models.
What You Can Check
If CO1 appears:
- Determine whether the washer is in Test Mode.
CO1 is intended to appear during diagnostic testing rather than normal washer operation. - Do not treat CO1 as a failure.
No repair is required based solely on this indication. - Continue or exit Test Mode as appropriate.
Follow the model-specific diagnostic procedure if you intentionally entered Test Mode. - Diagnose Wi-Fi problems separately.
If the washer actually has trouble connecting to Wi-Fi or LG ThinQ, troubleshoot that symptom rather than assumingCO1identifies the problem.
What If the Washer Has a Wi-Fi Problem?
A real connectivity problem should be diagnosed based on the actual symptoms.
For example, separate troubleshooting may be necessary if:
- The washer cannot connect to a Wi-Fi network
- The appliance cannot be added to LG ThinQ
- The washer repeatedly disconnects
- Connected features stop responding
- A separate communication or Wi-Fi fault is displayed
CO1 alone does not confirm any of these conditions.
Does CO1 Require Professional Repair?
Normally, no.
If the washer is operating correctly and CO1 appears only while Test Mode is active, no repair is necessary.
Professional diagnosis would only be appropriate if the washer has a separate operating or connectivity problem. In that situation, diagnosis should focus on the actual symptom rather than the CO1 display.
Key Point
CO1 means Wi-Fi Program Version and is not an LG washer error code.
It is an informational display used only in Test Mode, and the Wi-Fi program version may vary. Seeing CO1 does not mean that the washer’s Wi-Fi module is defective.
dE — Door Error
The dE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Door Error. The washer’s control system is not receiving the expected signal confirming that the door is properly closed and locked.
LG front-load washers use a Door Lock/Switch Assembly to verify that the door is safely secured before the drum is allowed to operate normally.
If the door cannot close correctly, the lock cannot engage, or the control board does not receive the proper door-lock signal, the washer may stop operation and display the dE code.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the dE error include:
- Washer door is not completely closed
- Clothing or another object is trapped between the door and gasket
- Door is misaligned
- Door hinge is loose, worn, or damaged
- Door strike is damaged or does not enter the lock correctly
- Door Lock/Switch Assembly is not operating correctly
- Loose electrical connection at the door-lock assembly
- Damaged wiring or wiring harness
- Abnormal door-lock signal reaching the main control board
The presence of dE does not automatically mean that the Door Lock/Switch Assembly needs to be replaced. A mechanical problem preventing the door from closing correctly can produce the same condition.
What You Can Check
- Open and close the door again.
Make sure the door closes completely and does not require excessive force. - Check for trapped laundry.
Clothing caught between the door and the rubber gasket can prevent the door from reaching the correct closed position. - Inspect the door strike.
Look for obvious cracks, deformation, looseness, or damage where the door engages with the locking mechanism. - Check the door alignment.
A loose or damaged hinge can allow the door to sag, preventing the strike from entering the lock correctly. - Listen for the door lock.
When a cycle starts, the washer should attempt to engage the locking mechanism. Failure to lock, repeated clicking, or unusual lock behavior can provide useful diagnostic information. - Restart the washer after correcting an obvious door problem.
If clothing was trapped or the door was not completely closed, correct the condition and check whether normal operation resumes.
Do not repeatedly slam the door or force the locking mechanism.
Door Lock / Switch Assembly
If the door closes mechanically but the dE code remains, the Door Lock/Switch Assembly becomes an important part of the diagnosis.
The assembly does more than physically secure the door. It also provides electrical feedback that allows the control system to determine whether the door has reached the required state.
A washer can therefore have a door that appears closed from the outside while the control board still does not receive the correct confirmation signal.
Possible problems include:
- Internal failure of the door-lock assembly
- Lock mechanism unable to engage
- Door switch not changing state correctly
- Loose connector
- Damaged wiring
- Incorrect alignment between the door strike and lock
The lock and its circuit should be tested before replacing the main control board.
If the Door Will Not Lock
If the washer attempts to start but the door does not lock, first check the mechanical relationship between the door, strike, hinge, and lock assembly.
A misaligned door can create what appears to be an electrical door-lock failure.
If alignment is correct, further diagnosis may require checking:
- Door Lock/Switch Assembly
- Electrical connector at the lock
- Wiring between the lock and main control board
- Control voltage supplied to the lock
- Feedback signal from the lock
- Main control board output
Exact electrical specifications and test procedures should be verified for the complete LG model number.
If the Door Is Locked but dE Still Appears
A physically locked door does not necessarily mean the entire door-detection circuit is working correctly.
The lock assembly may engage mechanically while failing to provide the expected electrical feedback to the control board.
In this situation, diagnosis may include:
- Testing the door-switch contacts
- Inspecting the lock connector
- Checking the wiring harness for open or damaged conductors
- Verifying the door-lock feedback signal
- Checking main-board connections
- Performing the model-specific diagnostic procedure
This is why replacing parts based only on the fact that the door “looks locked” can lead to an incorrect diagnosis.
If the dE Code Returns
If dE repeatedly returns after confirming that the door is properly closed and unobstructed, the door-lock system should be diagnosed.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect the door and hinge alignment
- Inspect the door strike
- Test the Door Lock/Switch Assembly
- Inspect electrical connectors
- Check the wiring harness
- Verify lock operation and feedback
- Test applicable control-board inputs and outputs
- Run the washer’s model-specific diagnostic mode
The exact procedure can vary between LG washer platforms, so the complete model number should be used when performing component-level testing.
Before Replacing the Door Lock
Do not automatically replace the Door Lock/Switch Assembly when dE appears.
Start with the simpler mechanical possibilities:
Door → trapped clothing → hinge/alignment → door strike → lock assembly → wiring → control circuit
This sequence helps distinguish a door that simply cannot close correctly from an actual electrical failure in the locking system.
Key Point
dE means Door Error.
The washer is not receiving the expected confirmation that the door is properly closed and locked. Begin by checking the door, trapped laundry, hinge alignment, and door strike. If those are normal and dE continues to return, the Door Lock/Switch Assembly, wiring, and control circuit may require further diagnosis.
dE1 — Door Open Error
The dE1 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Door Open Error. The washer’s Main PCB is not detecting the expected electrical signal confirming that the door interlock switch is closed.
The door may appear physically closed, but the washer will not begin normal operation unless the control system receives the correct confirmation from the door-lock circuit.
How the Door Detection System Works
On applicable LG front-load washers, closing the door activates an interlock switch inside the door-lock assembly.
The Main PCB monitors the electrical signal from this circuit to determine whether the door has been properly closed.
According to the LG diagnostic information for 2009-and-newer models, the control expects approximately 120 VAC on the Blue wire from the door-lock circuit when the door is closed. If the expected signal is missing, the control can display dE1.
Because this is an electrical confirmation circuit, a door that looks completely closed can still produce a dE1 error if the interlock switch, wiring, connector, or control circuit is not operating correctly.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the dE1 error include:
- Door is not completely closed
- Door is warped or misaligned
- Door strike does not engage the lock correctly
- Loose connection at the door switch or lock assembly
- Loose connection at the Main PCB
- Faulty door switch / interlock switch
- Damaged wiring or wiring harness
- Faulty Main PCB
- Abnormally low incoming supply voltage
- On some conditions, an abnormal drain-pump electrical load
The source specifically recommends checking door alignment and electrical connections before replacing the door switch or Main Board.
What You Can Check
- Open and firmly close the door.
Make sure nothing is preventing it from reaching the fully closed position. - Check for trapped laundry.
Clothing caught between the door and gasket can prevent proper engagement of the interlock. - Inspect door alignment.
Look for a sagging, warped, or misaligned door. The door strike should enter the locking mechanism correctly. - Check the power connection.
Make sure the washer’s power cord is firmly inserted into the wall receptacle and that the receptacle itself is not loose. - Observe what happens after Start is pressed.
Listen for the door-lock mechanism and note whether the washer attempts to begin the cycle before displayingdE1.
Do not force or repeatedly slam the door in an attempt to clear the error.
Door Lock and Interlock Circuit
The door-lock assembly performs two related functions: it detects that the door has been closed and then locks the door so that the cycle can operate safely.
For applicable 2009-and-newer LG front-load washers, the source describes the sequence as follows:
- Closing the door completes the interlock circuit.
- The resulting electrical signal confirms the closed-door condition to the Main PCB.
- After Start is pressed, the Main PCB energizes the door-lock solenoid.
- The lock then provides additional feedback confirming that the door has actually locked.
- Once the required signals are detected, the selected cycle can begin.
This distinction is important because dE1 relates to detection of the closed-door/interlock condition, while another door-related code can be generated when the control does not receive the expected locked-door confirmation.
Incoming Power Can Also Matter
The source notes that low incoming supply voltage can contribute to a dE1 condition.
For applicable U.S. models, the door-lock circuit is designed around a nominal 120 VAC supply. If the voltage supplied by the household receptacle falls significantly below the expected level, the door-monitoring circuit may not operate correctly.
For this reason, a persistent dE1 code should not automatically be blamed on the door-lock assembly.
Checking household voltage involves potentially hazardous electrical measurements and should be performed only by someone qualified to work safely around line voltage.
Drain Pump Can Be an Unexpected Cause
LG’s diagnostic information also notes an unusual possible cause: a drain pump with abnormally low winding resistance may contribute to a dE1 error.
The source gives approximately 10–20 Ω as a normal drain-pump winding reading, while readings around 0.8–3 Ωmay indicate a problem in the condition it describes.
This is a good example of why dE1 should not automatically result in replacement of the door lock.
These resistance values should be applied only where appropriate to the specific washer design and verified against model-specific service information.
If the dE1 Code Returns
If dE1 repeatedly returns even though the door is properly closed and aligned, the door-detection circuit should be diagnosed.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect the door and door strike
- Verify door alignment
- Test the interlock/door switch
- Inspect the Door Lock/Switch Assembly
- Check connections at the door switch
- Check connections at the Main PCB
- Inspect the wiring harness
- Verify the door-close monitoring signal
- Check incoming supply voltage
- Test the drain pump if appropriate
- Evaluate the Main PCB if the rest of the circuit tests correctly
The exact electrical procedure should be based on the complete washer model number.
Model-Specific Note
The detailed circuit information provided by the source applies to LG Front Load Washers manufactured in 2009 or newer.
For 2008-and-older models, the source states that the circuit polarity is reversed in the corresponding diagnostic information.
Therefore, technicians should not apply wire-voltage measurements from one generation of washer directly to another without checking the model-specific wiring diagram.
Key Point
dE1 means Door Open Error.
The Main PCB is not receiving the expected confirmation that the door interlock switch is closed. Start with the physical door and its alignment, then check the door switch/lock, electrical connections and wiring. If those are normal, incoming power, the drain-pump circuit, and ultimately the Main PCB may require further diagnosis.
dE2 — Door Not Locked Error
The dE2 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Door Not Locked Error. The washer detects that the door may be closed, but the Main Board does not receive the expected confirmation that the Door Lock Switch has successfully locked the door.
Because a front-load washer must confirm that the door is securely locked before normal operation can begin, the washer will not start the selected cycle when the required lock signal is missing.
How the Door Lock System Works
On applicable LG front-load washers, closing the door and locking the door are two separate stages of the safety sequence.
First, closing the door completes the interlock circuit. After the user selects a cycle and presses Start, the Main Board energizes the door-lock solenoid.
Once the locking mechanism engages, the Door Lock Switch changes state and sends confirmation back to the Main Board.
For the 2009-and-newer design described by the source, the Main Board monitors approximately 120 VAC on the BLACK wire of the Door Lock Monitor Circuit. If this signal is not detected, the washer displays dE2 and the cycle will not start.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the dE2 error include:
- Door is not completely closed
- Door is warped or misaligned
- Damaged door strike
- Door strike does not align correctly with the door lock
- Door Lock/Switch Assembly cannot engage
- Faulty Door Lock Switch
- Loose connection at the door-lock assembly
- Loose connection at the Main Board
- Damaged wiring or connectors
- Faulty Main Board
- Another component on a shared electrical circuit creating an abnormal condition
The source specifically recommends checking the physical door, strike, alignment, connections, and Door Switch before assuming that the Main Board has failed.
What You Can Check
- Open and close the door again.
Make sure the door closes completely and nothing is trapped between the door and gasket. - Inspect the door strike.
Check the strike for cracks, looseness, deformation, or other visible damage. - Check door alignment.
A sagging or misaligned door can allow the door to close while preventing the strike from correctly engaging the lock. - Listen when you press Start.
The washer should attempt to activate the door-lock mechanism. Repeated clicking or failure to lock can help narrow down the problem. - Do not force the door.
Slamming or forcing the door can damage the strike, hinge, or lock assembly.
If the door closes normally but dE2 returns, the lock mechanism and its electrical monitoring circuit may require further diagnosis.
dE1 vs. dE2
These two codes are closely related but describe different stages of the door safety system.
dE1 — Door Open Error:
The Main Board does not receive the expected confirmation that the door/interlock circuit is closed.
dE2 — Door Not Locked Error:
The door-close condition may have been satisfied, but the Main Board does not receive the expected confirmation from the Door Lock Switch that the locking mechanism has engaged.
This distinction can be useful when diagnosing whether the problem occurs during door detection or during the subsequent locking process.
Door Lock / Switch Assembly
If the door and strike are correctly aligned, the Door Lock/Switch Assembly becomes an important diagnostic target.
After Start is pressed, the Main Board energizes the lock solenoid. The lock should engage and change the state of the Door Lock Switch.
If the lock cannot engage—or if it locks mechanically but the electrical switch does not provide the expected feedback—the Main Board may interpret the condition as an unlocked door and display dE2.
Possible problems include:
- Failed lock solenoid
- Mechanical problem inside the lock assembly
- Failed Door Lock Switch
- Poor electrical connection
- Damaged wiring
- Missing lock-monitor signal
The lock circuit should be tested before replacing the Main Board.
Shared Electrical Circuit Problems
The source includes an important diagnostic detail: on models where the door-lock circuit shares a ground or neutral path with another device, a shorted component elsewhere in that circuit may contribute to a dE2 error.
Examples mentioned include:
- Drain pump
- Water valves
- Other devices sharing the applicable circuit
Therefore, a persistent dE2 does not always mean the Door Lock/Switch Assembly itself is defective.
If the dE2 Code Returns
If dE2 repeatedly returns even though the door closes correctly, the complete locking circuit should be diagnosed.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect the door and hinge alignment
- Inspect the door strike
- Verify that the strike properly enters the lock
- Test the Door Lock/Switch Assembly
- Verify operation of the lock solenoid
- Inspect connectors at the door lock
- Inspect connections at the Main Board
- Check the wiring harness
- Verify the Door Lock Monitor signal
- Check other components sharing the applicable electrical circuit
- Evaluate Main Board operation if the rest of the system tests correctly
Electrical measurements should be performed using the service information for the exact LG model.
Model-Specific Note
The detailed circuit information on the source applies to LG Front Load Washers manufactured in 2009 or newer.
For 2008-and-older models, the source states that the polarity is reversed: references to 120 VAC (L1) become Neutral (N), and references to Neutral become 120 VAC (L1).
For this reason, the complete model number and model-specific wiring diagram should always be verified before performing electrical tests.
Key Point
dE2 means Door Not Locked Error.
The washer is not receiving the expected confirmation that the Door Lock Switch has engaged. Begin with the door, strike, and alignment. If those are normal, the Door Lock/Switch Assembly, wiring, electrical connections, shared circuits, and Main Board may require further diagnosis.
dE4 — Door Open Error
The dE4 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Door Open Error associated with the door sensor inside the Door Lock Assembly.
The washer relies on the door-lock assembly not only to physically secure the door but also to provide electrical signals that allow the control system to determine whether the door is open, closed, or locked.
If the door sensor malfunctions or the Main Board does not receive the expected signal from the door-lock circuit, the washer may display dE4.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the dE4 error include:
- Door not completely closed
- Warped or misaligned door
- Door strike not engaging the lock correctly
- Malfunctioning door sensor
- Faulty Door Lock Assembly
- Loose connection at the door switch
- Loose connection at the Main Board
- Damaged wiring or electrical connector
- Failed door switch
The LG diagnostic reference specifically identifies the door sensor inside the Door Lock Assembly as the primary component associated with this error.
What You Can Check
- Open and close the washer door again.
Make sure it closes completely and nothing is trapped between the door and the rubber gasket. - Check the door alignment.
Look at the door from the front and verify that it does not appear to sag or sit unevenly. - Inspect the door strike.
Make sure the strike is not cracked, loose, bent, or otherwise damaged. - Listen to the locking mechanism.
Start a cycle and listen for the Door Lock Assembly attempting to engage. - Watch for repeated door-related errors.
IfdE4returns even though the door is properly closed and aligned, the door sensor or its electrical circuit becomes a more likely diagnostic target.
Do not repeatedly slam or force the door. This can damage the door strike, hinge, or locking mechanism.
Door Sensor & Door Lock Assembly
The door sensor is contained inside the Door Lock Assembly. Its purpose is to provide the washer’s electronic controls with information about the state of the door.
The diagnostic information for dE4 provides different electrical readings for three door conditions: Opened, Closed, and Locked.
For the system described by the source:
Door Opened
- Pin 2 to Pin 4: approximately 1 kΩ
- Pin 2 to Pin 3: open
- Pin 4 to Pin 5: open
Door Closed
- Pin 2 to Pin 4: approximately 900 Ω
- Pin 2 to Pin 3: approximately 1.1 kΩ
- Pin 4 to Pin 5: open
Door Locked
- Pin 4 to Pin 5: less than 1 Ω
These measurements demonstrate that the control system can distinguish different door states through the Door Lock Assembly.
Why a Closed Door Can Still Produce dE4
A common source of confusion is that the washer door may look completely closed while dE4 remains on the display.
Physically closing the door and electrically detecting its position are not the same thing.
For example:
- The door may close but be slightly misaligned.
- The strike may enter the lock without correctly operating the sensor.
- The Door Lock Assembly may mechanically engage while its internal sensor fails.
- A loose connector may interrupt the sensor signal.
- Damaged wiring may prevent the Main Board from receiving the correct door-state information.
Therefore, visual confirmation that the door is closed does not rule out a door-sensor problem.
If the dE4 Code Returns
If dE4 continues to appear after confirming that the door is properly closed and aligned, the Door Lock Assembly and its electrical circuit should be diagnosed.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect door alignment
- Inspect the door strike
- Check the Door Lock Assembly
- Test the internal door sensor
- Verify the door-state resistance readings
- Inspect the door-switch connector
- Inspect connections at the Main Board
- Check the wiring harness for open or damaged conductors
- Verify that the correct door-state signal reaches the Main Board
If the door and wiring are normal but the sensor does not provide the expected readings, the Door Lock Assembly may require replacement, since the sensor is contained inside the assembly. The source specifically directs replacement of the Door Lock Assembly when the door sensor has malfunctioned.
dE4 vs. Other LG Door Errors
LG front-load washers can display several related door codes, and they should not automatically be treated as identical.
dE, dE1, dE2, and dE4 all involve the door system, but they can represent different conditions within the closing, locking, and detection sequence.
For dE4, the source specifically points to the door sensor contained within the Door Lock Assembly and recommends referring to the dE1 and dE2 diagnostic information for further troubleshooting.
Before Replacing the Door Lock Assembly
Before replacing the assembly, first eliminate simple mechanical and connection problems.
A useful diagnostic sequence is:
Door closure → door alignment → door strike → connectors → wiring → door sensor / Door Lock Assembly
If all external conditions and electrical connections are correct but the door sensor does not change state as expected, replacement of the Door Lock Assembly may be necessary.
Key Point
dE4 means Door Open Error and is specifically associated with a malfunction of the door sensor located inside the Door Lock Assembly.
First make sure the door closes correctly and is not warped or misaligned. If dE4 continues to return, inspect the connections at the door switch and Main Board and test the Door Lock Assembly. If the internal sensor is defective, the Door Lock Assembly may need to be replaced.
dHE — Dry Heater Error
The dHE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Dry Heater Error. The washer has detected that the drying system is not producing or detecting the expected heat.
This code applies to LG washer models equipped with a drying system, such as certain washer/dryer combo models.
Although dHE is associated with the dry heater, the code does not automatically mean that the heater itself has failed. The drying system depends on the heater, temperature sensor, dry fan, thermostat, wiring, and electronic controls working together. A problem with any of these components can prevent the expected temperature change and trigger the error.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the dHE error include:
- Failed or open dry heater
- Dry heater not receiving the required voltage
- Faulty dryer thermistor
- Dry fan not operating
- Dry fan motor or winding problem
- Open thermostat
- Loose electrical connection
- Damaged or open wiring harness
- Control circuit problem
The important point is that dHE represents a drying-system heating problem, not necessarily a single failed component.
How the Dry Heating System Works
During the drying portion of the cycle, the dry heater generates heat while the dry fan moves heated air through the system.
A thermistor monitors temperature changes and provides temperature information to the electronic control.
If the heater operates correctly, the thermistor should detect the resulting change in temperature. If that expected change does not occur, the washer can determine that the drying system is not operating correctly and display dHE.
This means several different failures can produce essentially the same result:
No heater output → no temperature increase
Heater works but fan does not move the heated air correctly → expected temperature change may not be detected
Heater and fan work but thermistor does not correctly detect temperature → control receives incorrect feedback
This is why the complete drying system should be diagnosed before replacing the heater.
What You Can Check
- Confirm that the problem occurs during drying.
Note whether the washer completes the washing portion normally and displaysdHEwhen drying begins. - Check whether the appliance produces heat.
If the drying cycle runs but there is no noticeable heating, the heater circuit may require diagnosis. - Listen for the dry fan.
Abnormal or missing airflow can indicate a problem with the fan or its electrical circuit. - Check for other symptoms.
Note unusual noises, burning odors, repeated cycle interruption, or drying performance that became progressively worse. - Do not repeatedly reset the washer if dHE returns.
A reset cannot repair an open heater, thermostat, fan motor, thermistor, or damaged wiring.
Internal testing involves live voltage and electrical components and should be performed only by someone qualified to work safely on the appliance.
Dry Heater
The first major component to check is the dry heater.
The LG diagnostic reference lists two possible heater resistance ranges depending on the model:
- Approximately 10–14 Ω
- Approximately 33–37 Ω
The source also specifies checking the dry heater circuit for approximately 120 VAC.
These values are model-dependent. The correct specification should therefore be confirmed using the complete washer model number before deciding that a heater is defective.
A heater can fail electrically even when there is no obvious visible damage.
Dryer Thermistor
The thermistor provides temperature feedback to the control system.
The source specifies a broad thermistor resistance range of approximately 2.5–180 kΩ, depending on temperature. It also shows the characteristics of an NTC temperature sensor: resistance decreases as temperature increases.
For example, the reference provides approximate values of:
- 32°F: 150 kΩ
- 70°F: 53 kΩ
- 105°F: 25 kΩ
A thermistor that provides an incorrect or unchanging signal can cause the control system to interpret the drying system as not heating correctly even when the heater itself is functioning.
Dry Fan
The dry fan is another important part of dHE diagnosis.
The heater may generate heat, but that heat must be moved through the drying system. If the fan does not operate correctly, the expected temperature change may not reach the area monitored by the sensor.
The source specifies checking the dry fan for approximately 24 VDC and checking the motor windings at approximately 2–5 Ω between each pair:
- U to V
- U to W
- V to W
If the fan does not operate, diagnosis should include both the fan motor and its wiring/control circuit.
Thermostat
The drying system also uses a thermostat as part of its temperature and safety circuit.
According to the source, the thermostat should be checked for an open circuit. If the thermostat is open when it should have continuity, replacement may be required.
An open thermostat can interrupt the heating circuit and prevent the dry heater from operating even when the heater itself is good.
Wiring & Connections
A persistent dHE error can also be caused by an open or damaged wire.
This is especially important because replacing the heater or control board will not solve the problem if electrical continuity between the components has been lost.
Diagnosis may therefore include checking the heater, fan, and thermistor circuits from the Main Board to determine whether the components and their wiring are electrically intact.
If the dHE Code Returns
If dHE repeatedly returns, the complete drying system should be diagnosed rather than replacing the dry heater automatically.
A technician may need to:
- Measure dry heater resistance
- Verify voltage to the heater
- Test the dryer thermistor
- Monitor thermistor response as temperature changes
- Verify dry fan operation
- Check dry fan winding resistance
- Verify voltage supplied to the fan
- Test the thermostat for continuity
- Inspect wiring harnesses and connectors
- Check for open or damaged conductors
- Verify Main Board outputs
Exact specifications should always be confirmed for the complete LG model number.
Before Replacing the Dry Heater
The most useful way to interpret dHE is:
The washer expected the drying system to produce a measurable temperature change, but that did not happen correctly.
Therefore, do not assume:
dHE = bad heater
The actual failure could be in the:
Heater → power supply → thermostat → dry fan → thermistor → wiring → electronic control
Testing the complete system helps prevent unnecessary replacement of expensive components.
Key Point
dHE means Dry Heater Error.
The drying system is not producing or detecting the expected heat. The dry heater is an important diagnostic target, but the thermistor, dry fan, thermostat, wiring, electrical supply, and control circuit can also produce the same error.
Because the heater resistance specification varies by LG model, use the complete model number when performing component-level diagnosis.
dr — Drain Feature (Not an Error)
The dr code on an LG front-load washer is not an error code. It indicates that the washer’s automatic Drain Feature has been activated.
If the washer remains paused or idle for too long, the control system can automatically cancel the current cycle and drain any water remaining in the tub. During this process, dr appears on the display to indicate what the washer is doing.
Why dr Appears
According to LG diagnostic information, dr can appear in two common situations:
- The washer has been paused during a cycle for approximately 4–8 minutes.
- The washer has been powered on and left idle for approximately 4–8 minutes without starting a cycle.
In either situation, the washer can time out and activate its automatic drain function. If water remains in the tub, the machine drains it and displays dr to identify the action.
This is normal programmed behavior rather than an indication that the drain pump, water-level sensor, or electronic control has failed.
What Happens During the Drain Feature
If a cycle is paused for longer than the allowed period, the washer does not necessarily remain paused indefinitely.
Instead, the control system can:
- Cancel the current cycle.
- Activate the drain function.
- Remove water remaining in the tub.
- Display
drwhile performing the automatic drain.
This feature helps prevent water from remaining inside the washer indefinitely after a cycle has been abandoned or interrupted.
What You Can Check
If dr appears on the display:
- Consider whether the washer was left paused.
If a cycle was paused several minutes earlier, the automatic drain function may simply have timed out. - Consider whether the washer was turned on but no cycle was started.
Leaving the machine powered on and idle can also activate this feature. - Listen for the drain pump.
The washer may operate the pump to remove water remaining in the tub. - Allow the washer to finish draining.
If the appliance drains normally and no other error appears, repair is generally not necessary. - Start a new cycle if needed.
Because the previous cycle may have been canceled, you may need to select and start the desired cycle again.
Does dr Mean the Drain Pump Is Bad?
No.
Seeing dr does not mean that the drain pump has failed. In fact, the washer may intentionally be operating the drain pump as part of the automatic Drain Feature.
There is an important difference between:
dr displayed while the washer successfully drains
→ Normal automatic drain operation.
and
Washer attempts to drain but water remains in the tub
→ A separate drainage problem may be present.
If water does not drain correctly, troubleshooting should focus on the actual drainage symptoms and any additional error code that appears.
When dr May Need Further Investigation
The dr indication itself normally does not require repair.
Further diagnosis may be appropriate if:
- Water remains in the tub after the drain operation
- The drain pump runs but cannot remove the water
- The washer repeatedly enters the drain function unexpectedly
- Another error code appears
- The washer cannot begin or complete normal cycles
- The drain pump makes unusual noises
- The washer exhibits another abnormal symptom
In these situations, the underlying symptom should be diagnosed rather than treating dr itself as a fault code.
Can You Clear dr?
Normally, there is no fault that needs to be cleared.
If dr appeared because the washer was left paused or idle, allow the automatic drain operation to finish. The previous cycle may have been canceled, so a new cycle can then be selected and started as needed.
Repeatedly disconnecting power is unnecessary when the washer is simply performing its normal Drain Feature.
Key Point
dr means Drain Feature and is not an LG washer error.
If an LG front-load washer is paused during a cycle for approximately 4–8 minutes, the cycle can be canceled and the remaining water automatically drained. The same function can occur when the washer is powered on but left idle without starting a cycle for approximately 4–8 minutes. In both cases, dr appears to identify the washer’s automatic drain action.
Ed1 — EZ Dispenser (Detergent) Error
The Ed1 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an EZ Dispenser (Detergent) Error. The washer has detected that the expected amount of liquid detergent in the ezDispense detergent reservoir did not decrease, indicating that detergent was not dispensed as expected.
This code applies to LG washer models equipped with the ezDispense automatic detergent dispensing system.
When ezDispense is enabled, the washer automatically dispenses a programmed amount of liquid detergent at the appropriate point during the wash cycle. If the detergent remains in the reservoir instead of being delivered correctly, the washer may display Ed1.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the Ed1 error include:
- Liquid detergent has thickened or hardened inside the reservoir
- Detergent residue has accumulated inside the ezDispense system
- Detergent reservoir has not been cleaned regularly
- Washer was left unused for an extended period with detergent in the reservoir
- Old detergent is restricting normal dispensing
- Detergent passage is obstructed by residue
- ezDispense reservoir requires cleaning
- Detergent dispensing system is unable to deliver the expected amount
The source specifically identifies detergent left in the reservoir for an extended period as an important cause. Over time, the detergent can harden and create residue inside the dispenser.
How the ezDispense System Works
When the ezDispense function is enabled, the washer automatically delivers liquid detergent and fabric softener in predetermined amounts at the appropriate time during the cycle.
According to the LG reference, a full detergent reservoir can provide enough detergent for approximately 18 standard cycles when the drum is loaded about halfway.
Because the washer expects detergent to leave the reservoir during dispensing, the control system can recognize when the expected change does not occur.
If the detergent level does not decrease as expected, Ed1 may be displayed.
Why Detergent Can Stop Dispensing
Liquid detergent does not necessarily remain in the same condition indefinitely.
If detergent sits inside the ezDispense reservoir for a long period—especially when the washer is not being used—it can leave deposits or become thick enough to interfere with normal dispensing.
Residue can accumulate in:
- The detergent reservoir
- Reservoir outlet
- Dispenser drawer
- Areas through which detergent must flow
This is why cleaning should be the first step before assuming that the dispenser has suffered an electrical or mechanical failure.
What You Can Check
- Remove the detergent dispenser drawer.
Pull the drawer outward until it stops and use the release mechanism to completely remove it. - Remove the ezDispense reservoirs.
Take the reservoirs out of the dispenser drawer and open their lids. - Check the detergent condition.
Look for thickened detergent, dried residue, buildup, or deposits inside the reservoir. - Rinse the components with warm water.
The source recommends warm water to help dissolve detergent or fabric-softener residue. - Clean remaining residue carefully.
A soft cloth or soft brush can be used to remove buildup without damaging the dispenser components. - Reinstall the reservoir correctly.
Make sure the reservoir and dispenser drawer are completely and correctly seated before operating the washer again.
Avoid using sharp objects that could damage the dispenser components.
Cleaning the ezDispense Reservoir
LG’s guidance emphasizes regular cleaning of the automatic dispenser.
The source recommends removing and cleaning the ezDispense reservoir every time detergent or fabric softener is refilled, as well as when changing to a different type of detergent or softener.
This helps prevent different products from mixing and reduces the accumulation of hardened detergent or softener residue.
The general dispenser drawer should also be cleaned regularly.
How Often Should the Dispenser Drawer Be Cleaned?
According to the source, the detergent dispenser drawer should be removed and cleaned approximately once or twice per month.
Regular cleaning is particularly useful when:
- The washer is used infrequently
- Detergent remains in the reservoir for long periods
- A thick liquid detergent is used
- Detergent or softener brands are changed
- Visible residue begins accumulating
- Automatic dispensing becomes inconsistent
Preventive cleaning may help avoid Ed1 returning.
If the Ed1 Code Returns
If Ed1 returns after the reservoir and dispenser drawer have been thoroughly cleaned, the ezDispense system may require further diagnosis.
At that point, a technician may need to inspect:
- Detergent reservoir
- Detergent dispensing path
- ezDispense mechanism
- Dispenser connections
- Applicable dispenser components
- Wiring and electrical connectors
- Control signals associated with automatic dispensing
The exact components and diagnostic procedures can vary by model, so the complete LG washer model number should be used for component-level troubleshooting.
Does Ed1 Mean the Dispenser Must Be Replaced?
Not necessarily.
The source places significant emphasis on detergent buildup and cleaning, rather than immediately replacing the dispenser system.
Therefore, a sensible troubleshooting sequence is:
Check detergent condition → clean reservoir → clean dispenser drawer → reinstall correctly → test ezDispense operation → diagnose dispenser system if Ed1 returns
Replacing the dispenser before eliminating detergent residue or blockage could result in an unnecessary repair.
Preventing Ed1 From Returning
To reduce the chance of future dispensing problems:
- Do not leave old detergent in the reservoir for extended periods
- Clean the reservoir when refilling it
- Clean it when switching detergent or softener products
- Remove accumulated residue before it hardens
- Clean the dispenser drawer approximately once or twice per month
- Follow the detergent and dispenser instructions for the specific LG model
Regular maintenance is especially important for an automatic dispensing system because detergent remains stored inside the appliance between cycles.
Key Point
Ed1 means EZ Dispenser (Detergent) Error.
The washer has determined that the amount of liquid detergent in the reservoir did not decrease as expected, indicating that detergent was not properly dispensed. Begin by checking for hardened detergent and residue, then thoroughly clean the ezDispense reservoir and dispenser drawer.
If Ed1 continues to return after the dispensing system has been cleaned and correctly reassembled, further diagnosis of the ezDispense system may be necessary.
Ed2 — EZ Dispenser Detergent Pump Error
The Ed2 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an EZ Dispenser Detergent Error associated with the detergent pump circuit.
The washer has detected that the expected amount of liquid detergent in the detergent reservoir did not decrease and, more specifically, has detected an open circuit in the detergent pump.
This code applies to LG washers equipped with the ezDispense automatic detergent dispensing system.
Unlike Ed1, which can be associated with detergent not being dispensed as expected, Ed2 provides a more specific electrical diagnostic clue: the control system is detecting a problem in the detergent pump circuit.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the Ed2 error include:
- Open circuit in the detergent pump
- Failed detergent pump
- Loose connector at the detergent pump
- Poor electrical connection
- Damaged or broken wiring
- Loose connection at the Main Board
- Main Board not supplying power to the detergent pump
- Problem within the ezDispense detergent pump circuit
The presence of Ed2 does not automatically prove that the pump itself has failed. A disconnected connector, broken wire, or missing power supply from the Main Board can create the same condition.
How the ezDispense Pump System Works
LG’s ezDispense system uses separate pumping circuits to automatically dispense detergent and fabric softener.
The source identifies a 6-pin connector for the pumps and a 4-pin connector for the sensors, with the detergent-related wiring identified as black and brown.
When detergent is required, the control board supplies power to the detergent pump. The pump then moves liquid detergent from the reservoir into the dispensing system.
If the control detects an open electrical circuit—or the expected detergent dispensing does not occur—the washer can display Ed2.
What You Can Check
- Check the detergent reservoir.
Make sure liquid detergent is present and that the reservoir is correctly installed. - Inspect the ezDispense system for obvious problems.
Look for detergent buildup, improperly installed components, or visible damage. - Clean the dispenser if necessary.
Although Ed2 specifically points toward an electrical pump-circuit problem, keeping the reservoir and dispensing system clean helps eliminate a physical dispensing restriction as a contributing factor. - Restart the washer and observe the dispenser.
IfEd2immediately or repeatedly returns, further electrical diagnosis may be required. - Do not replace the detergent pump based only on the code.
The wiring, connectors, and Main Board power supply should be checked before condemning the pump.
Detergent Pump Electrical Testing
The LG diagnostic reference provides useful specifications for testing the ezDispense pumps.
The pump power supply should measure approximately:
11.5–13.5 VDC
For the detergent pump, the source specifies measuring between terminals 5 and 1 of the 6-pin connector.
The detergent pump itself should have a resistance of approximately:
36 Ω
A significantly abnormal or open resistance reading may indicate a failed pump winding.
These measurements should be performed only by someone qualified to safely diagnose appliance electrical systems.
Using Test Mode to Diagnose Ed2
The source provides an especially useful way to distinguish a pump failure from a Main Board problem.
Both ezDispense pumps are powered during Step 13 of Test Mode.
During that test:
- No voltage supplied from the Main Board → the Main Board may be defective.
- Correct voltage reaches the pump but the pump does not operate → the pump may be defective.
This distinction is important because replacing the detergent pump will not solve the problem if the control board is not supplying power to it.
Wiring & Connections
Before replacing either component, inspect the electrical path between them.
LG specifically instructs technicians to check connections at the pump and Main Board.
Diagnosis may include checking:
- Detergent pump connector
- 6-pin pump connector
- Wiring harness
- Broken or damaged conductors
- Loose terminals
- Corroded or contaminated connections
- Main Board connector
A simple open connection can produce the same electrical condition as an internally failed pump.
If the Ed2 Code Returns
If Ed2 continues to return, the detergent pump circuit should be diagnosed systematically.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect connections at the detergent pump
- Inspect connections at the Main Board
- Check the wiring harness for continuity
- Measure detergent pump resistance
- Verify the approximately 11.5–13.5 VDC pump supply
- Run Step 13 of the washer’s Test Mode
- Verify whether the detergent pump operates when energized
- Determine whether the failure is in the pump, wiring, or Main Board
This approach prevents unnecessary replacement of otherwise functional components.
Ed1 vs. Ed2
Although both codes relate to the ezDispense detergent system, they should not be treated as identical.
Ed1 indicates that the amount of detergent in the reservoir did not decrease as expected and can be associated with detergent dispensing problems such as buildup or hardened detergent.
Ed2 specifically indicates that the washer has detected an open circuit in the detergent pump.
Therefore, Ed2 places considerably more diagnostic emphasis on the pump’s electrical circuit, wiring, connections, and power supply.
Before Replacing the Detergent Pump
A useful diagnostic sequence for Ed2 is:
Pump connections → wiring → pump resistance → Main Board supply voltage → Test Mode → pump or Main Board diagnosis
The source gives approximately 36 Ω for pump resistance and 11.5–13.5 VDC for the pump power supply.
If correct voltage reaches the pump during the appropriate Test Mode step but the pump does not operate, the pump becomes the likely failure.
If the Main Board does not provide the expected voltage, the control side of the circuit requires diagnosis.
Key Point
Ed2 indicates an EZ Dispenser Detergent Pump Error involving an open circuit in the detergent pump.
Begin by checking the pump and Main Board connections. If the error remains, test the pump circuit, approximately 36 Ω pump resistance, and approximately 11.5–13.5 VDC supply. Correct voltage at a non-operating pump points toward the pump; missing voltage from the Main Board points toward the control circuit.
Ed3 — EZ Dispenser Softener Error
The Ed3 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an EZ Dispenser Softener Error. The washer has detected that the amount of liquid fabric softener in the ezDispense reservoir did not decrease as expected, indicating that the softener was not properly dispensed.
This code applies to LG washer models equipped with the ezDispense automatic detergent and fabric-softener dispensing system.
According to LG diagnostic information, one of the primary causes is fabric softener being left inside the reservoir for an extended period. The softener can thicken, harden, or leave residue that interferes with normal dispensing.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the Ed3 error include:
- Fabric softener has thickened or hardened inside the reservoir
- Softener residue has accumulated inside the ezDispense system
- Dispenser reservoir has not been cleaned regularly
- Fabric softener was left in the reservoir for an extended period
- Residue is restricting the softener dispensing path
- ezDispense reservoir is dirty
- Reservoir is not correctly installed
- Softener dispensing system is unable to deliver the expected amount
Because the source specifically identifies softener buildup and hardening as a cause, cleaning the reservoir and dispenser should be one of the first troubleshooting steps before assuming that an electrical component has failed.
How the ezDispense Softener System Works
When the ezDispense function is enabled, the washer automatically dispenses predetermined amounts of liquid detergent and fabric softener at the appropriate stages of the cycle.
The control system expects the amount of softener stored in the reservoir to decrease as it is dispensed.
If the expected dispensing does not occur, the washer can recognize the abnormal condition and display Ed3.
According to the source, a full softener reservoir can last approximately 18 standard cycles when the drum is loaded about halfway. The actual number of cycles can vary depending on dispenser settings and usage.
Why Fabric Softener Can Cause Dispensing Problems
Fabric softener can leave significant residue when it remains inside the dispenser for long periods.
Over time, the product may:
- Become thicker
- Partially harden
- Form deposits
- Coat surfaces inside the reservoir
- Restrict the dispensing path
This is especially likely when the washer is used infrequently or the reservoir is not cleaned between refills.
A dispensing restriction can prevent the expected amount of softener from leaving the reservoir, causing the washer to detect an Ed3 condition.
What You Can Check
- Check the fabric-softener reservoir.
Inspect the softener for thickening, hardened material, or visible residue. - Remove the dispenser drawer.
Pull the detergent dispenser drawer outward until it stops, then use the drawer-release mechanism to remove it completely. - Remove the ezDispense reservoir.
Take the reservoir out of the drawer and open its lid. - Empty old fabric softener if necessary.
If the product has been stored for an extended period or appears unusually thick, remove it before cleaning. - Rinse the dispenser components with warm water.
LG’s guidance recommends warm water to help dissolve detergent and softener residue. - Remove remaining buildup carefully.
Use a soft cloth or soft brush to clean residue from the reservoir and dispenser. - Reinstall the reservoir correctly.
Make sure all components are properly seated before testing the washer again.
Avoid sharp tools or aggressive cleaning methods that could damage the dispenser components.
Cleaning the ezDispense System
Regular cleaning is particularly important with automatic dispensing systems because detergent and fabric softener can remain stored inside the appliance between cycles.
The source recommends cleaning the ezDispense reservoir every time detergent or fabric softener is refilled.
It should also be cleaned when switching to a different type of detergent or softener.
This reduces the possibility of:
- Old and new products mixing
- Thick residue accumulating
- Softener hardening inside the reservoir
- Dispensing passages becoming restricted
How Often Should the Dispenser Drawer Be Cleaned?
The source recommends removing and cleaning the detergent dispenser drawer once or twice per month.
More frequent cleaning may be useful if:
- Fabric softener remains in the reservoir for long periods
- The washer is used infrequently
- A particularly thick softener is used
- Different softener products are frequently changed
- Visible residue develops quickly
- Automatic dispensing becomes inconsistent
Preventive cleaning can reduce the likelihood of dispensing problems developing into a recurring Ed3 condition.
Ed1 vs. Ed3
Ed1 and Ed3 are closely related but involve different reservoirs:
Ed1 — EZ Dispenser Detergent Error
The expected amount of liquid detergent did not dispense.
Ed3 — EZ Dispenser Softener Error
The expected amount of fabric softener did not dispense.
For Ed3, troubleshooting should therefore concentrate on the softener reservoir and softener dispensing path rather than the detergent side of the system.
If the Ed3 Code Returns
If Ed3 returns after the reservoir and dispenser have been thoroughly cleaned, the problem may require further diagnosis.
A technician may need to inspect:
- Softener reservoir
- Reservoir seating and contacts
- Softener dispensing path
- ezDispense components
- Electrical connections
- Applicable sensors or dispensing components
- Wiring between the dispenser and control system
- Main control system
A persistent Ed3 should not automatically result in parts replacement until buildup, contamination, and installation of the reservoir have been checked.
Does Ed3 Mean the Dispenser Must Be Replaced?
Not necessarily.
The source’s primary troubleshooting guidance for Ed3 is cleaning the ezDispense reservoir and dispenser drawer.
A sensible diagnostic sequence is therefore:
Check softener condition → clean reservoir → clean dispenser drawer → reinstall correctly → test ezDispense operation → diagnose the dispensing system if Ed3 returns
If the reservoir is clean and correctly installed but the washer still cannot detect normal softener dispensing, component-level diagnosis may then be necessary.
Preventing Ed3 From Returning
To help prevent future softener dispensing problems:
- Avoid leaving old fabric softener in the reservoir for long periods
- Clean the reservoir whenever it is refilled
- Clean it when changing softener products
- Remove residue before it becomes hardened
- Clean the dispenser drawer once or twice per month
- Follow the ezDispense instructions for the specific washer model
Regular cleaning is particularly useful because fabric softener can leave deposits even when the dispensing system is otherwise operating normally.
Key Point
Ed3 means EZ Dispenser Softener Error.
The washer has detected that the amount of fabric softener in the reservoir did not decrease as expected. Begin by checking for thickened softener, hardened residue, and dispenser buildup, then clean the ezDispense reservoir and drawer thoroughly.
If Ed3 continues to return after the dispenser has been cleaned and correctly reinstalled, the ezDispense system may require further diagnosis.
Ed4 — EZ Dispenser Softener Pump Error
The Ed4 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an EZ Dispenser Softener Error associated with the fabric-softener pump circuit.
The washer has detected that the amount of fabric softener in the reservoir did not decrease as expected and, more specifically, has detected an open circuit in the softener pump.
This code applies to LG washers equipped with the ezDispense automatic detergent and fabric-softener dispensing system.
Unlike Ed3, which indicates that fabric softener was not dispensed as expected, Ed4 provides a more specific electrical diagnostic clue: the control system has detected an open condition in the softener pump circuit.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the Ed4 error include:
- Open circuit in the softener pump
- Failed softener pump
- Open pump winding
- Loose connector at the softener pump
- Poor electrical connection
- Broken or damaged wiring
- Loose connection at the Main Board
- Main Board not supplying power to the softener pump
- Electrical problem within the ezDispense softener circuit
The Ed4 code does not automatically prove that the softener pump itself has failed. A loose connector, broken wire, damaged terminal, or missing power supply from the Main Board can produce the same open-circuit condition.
How the ezDispense Softener Pump Works
The ezDispense system automatically delivers measured amounts of detergent and fabric softener during the appropriate stages of a wash cycle.
Separate pumps are used for the detergent and softener sides of the system.
The source identifies a 6-pin connector for the pumps and a 4-pin connector for the sensors. It also identifies the detergent sensor wiring as white and orange.
When fabric softener needs to be dispensed, the Main Board supplies power to the softener pump.
If the electrical circuit to that pump is open, the pump cannot operate normally and the expected amount of softener does not leave the reservoir. The washer can then display Ed4.
What You Can Check
- Check the softener reservoir.
Make sure fabric softener is present and the reservoir is properly installed. - Inspect the dispenser for obvious problems.
Look for improperly seated components, visible damage, or excessive softener residue. - Clean the reservoir if necessary.
Although Ed4 specifically identifies an electrical pump-circuit problem, removing accumulated softener residue helps eliminate a separate physical restriction. - Reinstall the dispenser correctly.
Make sure the reservoir and dispenser drawer are fully seated. - Test the washer again.
IfEd4repeatedly returns, electrical diagnosis of the softener-pump circuit is appropriate.
Do not replace the softener pump based solely on the displayed code. Its wiring and power supply should be verified first.
Softener Pump Electrical Testing
The source provides specific electrical values for diagnosing the ezDispense pump system.
Pump supply voltage should be approximately:
11.5–13.5 VDC
For the softener pump, this voltage is measured between terminals 3 and 4 of the 6-pin connector.
The pump resistance should be approximately:
36 Ω
An open resistance reading or a reading significantly outside the expected specification may indicate a problem with the pump winding.
Electrical testing should be performed only by someone qualified to safely diagnose appliance electrical systems.
Using Test Mode to Diagnose Ed4
The source provides a useful diagnostic method for separating a softener pump failure from a Main Board problem.
Both ezDispense pumps are energized during Step 13 of Test Mode.
The results can help narrow down the failure:
No voltage from the Main Board during Test Mode
→ The Main Board or its output circuit may be defective.
Correct voltage reaches the softener pump, but the pump does not operate
→ The softener pump may be defective.
This distinction is important. Replacing the pump will not solve an Ed4 problem if the Main Board is not providing the required power.
Wiring & Connections
Before replacing either the softener pump or Main Board, inspect the electrical path between them.
The LG diagnostic information specifically instructs technicians to check connections at the pump and Main Board.
Diagnosis may include:
- Softener pump connector
- 6-pin pump connector
- Wiring harness
- Broken or open conductors
- Loose terminals
- Damaged connectors
- Main Board connector
- Continuity between the pump and control board
An open connection anywhere in this circuit can prevent the pump from operating even when both the pump and Main Board are otherwise functional.
Ed3 vs. Ed4
These two codes both involve the ezDispense fabric-softener system, but they indicate different conditions.
Ed3 — EZ Dispenser Softener Error
The amount of softener in the reservoir did not decrease as expected. Troubleshooting begins with the softener itself, buildup, reservoir cleanliness, and normal dispensing.
Ed4 — EZ Dispenser Softener Pump Error
The amount of softener did not decrease, and the washer detects an open circuit in the softener pump. Troubleshooting therefore focuses much more heavily on the pump, wiring, connectors, and Main Board power supply.
This distinction is important because Ed4 provides substantially more specific electrical diagnostic information than Ed3.
If the Ed4 Code Returns
If Ed4 continues to return, the softener pump circuit should be systematically diagnosed.
A technician may need to:
- Inspect connections at the softener pump
- Inspect connections at the Main Board
- Check wiring continuity
- Measure softener pump resistance
- Verify the approximately 11.5–13.5 VDC pump supply
- Run Step 13 of Test Mode
- Confirm whether the pump operates when energized
- Determine whether the failure is in the pump, wiring, connector, or Main Board
According to the source, if there is no voltage from the Main Board during the Test Mode pump test, the Main Board should be investigated. If proper voltage is present at the pump but the pump does not operate, the pump becomes the likely failure.
Before Replacing the Softener Pump
A useful diagnostic sequence for Ed4 is:
Pump connections → wiring → pump resistance → supply voltage → Test Mode → pump or Main Board diagnosis
The expected values given by the source are approximately:
Softener pump resistance: 36 Ω
Softener pump supply: 11.5–13.5 VDC
Supply measurement: terminals 3 and 4 on the 6-pin connector
These measurements make it possible to distinguish an open pump from a wiring or control-board problem instead of replacing components by trial and error.
Key Point
Ed4 indicates an EZ Dispenser Softener Pump Error involving an open circuit in the softener pump.
Start by checking the softener pump and Main Board connections. If the error remains, test the pump circuit, approximately 36 Ω pump resistance, and approximately 11.5–13.5 VDC supply between terminals 3 and 4.
Correct voltage reaching a non-operating pump points toward a failed pump. Missing voltage from the Main Board points toward the control side of the circuit.
Ed5 — EZ Dispenser Communication Error
The Ed5 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an EZ Dispenser Communication Error.
The washer has detected a communication problem involving the ezDispense Sub PCB (Sub Board). This means the Main Board and the electronic board responsible for the ezDispense system are not communicating correctly.
Unlike Ed1 through Ed4, Ed5 does not primarily indicate a detergent or fabric-softener dispensing problem. It points to the electronic communication circuit between the Main Board and Sub PCB.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the Ed5 error include:
- Loose connector at the Main Board
- Loose connection at the ezDispense Sub PCB
- Damaged wiring between the Main Board and Sub Board
- Broken wire or open circuit in the harness
- Poor terminal contact inside a connector
- Wiring harness damage
- Loss of continuity between the boards
- Problem with the ezDispense Sub PCB
- Main Board communication problem
The LG diagnostic reference specifically directs technicians to inspect the board connections and wiring before assuming that an electronic board has failed.
What Does an EZ Dispenser Communication Error Mean?
LG washers equipped with ezDispense use electronic controls to operate and monitor the automatic dispensing system.
The Main Board communicates with the Sub PCB associated with the dispenser system.
When this communication path is interrupted, the Main Board may no longer receive the expected information from the dispenser electronics. The washer then displays Ed5.
Therefore, the problem may exist anywhere along the communication path:
Main Board → connector → wiring harness → connector → Sub PCB
This is why Ed5 should not automatically be interpreted as a failed dispenser assembly or failed control board.
What You Can Check
Basic checks can include:
- Turn the washer off.
Disconnect power before inspecting internal electrical connections. - Check for an obvious temporary fault.
After the washer has been powered down, restore power and see whether Ed5 returns. - Inspect accessible dispenser components.
Make sure the dispenser assembly has not been disturbed or damaged. - Look for visible wiring damage.
If wiring near the dispenser electronics is accessible, check for loose, pinched, or damaged wires. - If Ed5 returns, further electrical diagnosis is required.
Persistent communication errors generally require inspection of the connectors and communication wiring.
Internal electrical testing should be performed by someone qualified to service appliance electronic systems.
Main Board Connector Check
The source provides a specific starting point for diagnosing Ed5.
Check the NA (natural-color) 5-pin connector on the Main Board and make sure it is securely connected.
The connector should be inspected for:
- Loose seating
- Partially disconnected plug
- Bent or damaged terminals
- Backed-out terminals
- Corrosion or contamination
- Damaged wires entering the connector
- Signs of overheating or physical damage
A connector can sometimes appear installed while one individual terminal is not making reliable electrical contact.
Wiring Between the Main Board and Sub PCB
If the Main Board connector is secure, the source instructs technicians to inspect the wires running to the Sub Board for damage and/or continuity.
This is an important diagnostic step because Ed5 can occur even when both electronic boards are functional.
The wiring harness should be checked for:
- Broken conductors
- Pinched wiring
- Loose terminals
- Connector damage
- Intermittent connections
- Open circuits
- Physical damage along the harness
A continuity test can determine whether the electrical path between the boards remains intact.
Does Ed5 Mean the Sub PCB Is Bad?
Not necessarily.
The code identifies a communication problem with the Sub PCB, but a communication error does not prove that the Sub PCB itself has failed.
For example, the same communication failure can result from:
Loose connector → damaged wire → open circuit → poor terminal contact → Sub PCB problem → Main Board problem
Because LG’s diagnostic guidance specifically begins with checking the connector and wiring, those items should be eliminated before replacing an electronic board.
Ed1–Ed5: What Is Different?
The first five Ed codes form a useful group of ezDispense-related faults:
Ed1 — Detergent Dispensing Error
The expected amount of detergent did not dispense.
Ed2 — Detergent Pump Circuit Error
An open circuit is detected in the detergent pump.
Ed3 — Softener Dispensing Error
The expected amount of fabric softener did not dispense.
Ed4 — Softener Pump Circuit Error
An open circuit is detected in the softener pump.
Ed5 — EZ Dispenser Communication Error
Communication with the dispenser Sub PCB is abnormal.
Ed5 therefore shifts troubleshooting away from the liquid reservoirs and individual pumps toward the electronic communication system.
If the Ed5 Code Returns
If Ed5 returns after restarting the washer, a technician may need to:
- Inspect the 5-pin NA connector at the Main Board
- Reseat the connector
- Inspect connector terminals
- Inspect wiring between the Main Board and Sub PCB
- Check the harness for physical damage
- Test wiring continuity
- Verify connections at the Sub PCB
- Determine whether communication is reaching the Sub PCB
- Diagnose the Sub PCB if wiring is intact
- Diagnose the Main Board if the communication circuit and Sub PCB test correctly
The exact diagnostic procedure can vary by washer model, so the complete model number should be used when performing component-level testing.
Before Replacing a Control Board
Do not replace the Main Board or Sub PCB solely because Ed5 is displayed.
A better diagnostic sequence is:
Main Board connector → Sub PCB connector → wiring inspection → continuity testing → Sub PCB diagnosis → Main Board diagnosis
The source specifically identifies the 5-pin Main Board connector and wiring to the Sub Board as the primary areas to check.
This helps avoid replacing an expensive electronic board when the actual problem is simply an open wire or poor connection.
Key Point
Ed5 means EZ Dispenser Communication Error.
The washer has detected a communication problem involving the ezDispense Sub PCB. Start by checking the NA 5-pin connector on the Main Board, then inspect the wiring between the Main Board and Sub Board for damage and continuity.
If the connections and wiring are intact but Ed5 continues to return, further diagnosis of the Sub PCB and Main Board communication circuit may be necessary.
EE — EEPROM Error
The EE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an EEPROM Error.
EEPROM stands for Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory. It is non-volatile electronic memory used by the washer’s control system to store information needed for operation.
When the washer displays EE, the problem is associated with the electronic memory or Main Control Board, rather than a mechanical component such as the drain pump, motor, door lock, or water valves.
What Does the EE Error Mean?
The Main Board is the primary electronic controller of the washer. It processes sensor information and controls functions such as:
- Water filling
- Draining
- Drum operation
- Door locking
- Cycle sequencing
- Temperature control
- Communication with other electronic components
EEPROM memory allows certain information to remain stored electronically even when power to the washer is removed.
An EE code indicates that the control system has detected a problem involving this memory.
Common Causes
Possible causes associated with an EE condition may include:
- EEPROM malfunction
- Corrupted or unreadable control data
- Internal Main Board memory failure
- Main Board electronic failure
Because EE is an electronic control fault, it is fundamentally different from codes caused by clogged hoses, unbalanced loads, water-supply problems, or similar external conditions.
What You Can Check
Before proceeding with component-level diagnosis:
- Turn the washer off.
- Disconnect the washer from power.
- Wait several minutes.
- Restore power and turn the washer on.
- Check whether EE returns.
A power reset can be used as a basic preliminary check, but repeatedly resetting the washer does not repair an EEPROM failure.
If EE consistently returns, further Main Board diagnosis is appropriate.
Testing the EE Error in Test Mode
The source provides a specific procedure for confirming the fault.
Enter the washer’s Test Mode.
At the first press of the Start button, observe the display.
If the washer displays:
EE
the source instructs:
Replace the Main Board.
This is an important distinction from many other LG washer error codes because the reference does not provide a long troubleshooting sequence involving several different components.
Instead, the Test Mode result points directly toward the Main Board.
Does EE Mean the Main Board Is Bad?
According to the referenced diagnostic procedure, if EE appears at the first press of the Start button in Test Mode, the specified corrective action is Main Board replacement.
This makes EE considerably more specific than error codes that can be triggered by several unrelated components.
However, the correct replacement board must always be identified using the washer’s complete model and serial information. Different LG washer models can use different Main Board assemblies.
Can Resetting the Washer Clear EE?
Power cycling may be attempted as a preliminary check, particularly if the code appeared only once.
However, if the washer repeatedly displays EE and the error is confirmed through Test Mode, repeatedly disconnecting power should not be considered a repair.
An actual EEPROM or Main Board fault requires electronic diagnosis and, according to the source’s Test Mode procedure, Main Board replacement when EE is confirmed.
EE Is Different From a Communication Error
It is useful not to confuse EE with codes indicating communication problems between separate electronic boards.
A communication error can sometimes result from:
Board → connector → wiring harness → connector → second board
In those situations, wiring and connections can be responsible even when both boards are functional.
EE, however, specifically identifies an EEPROM-related fault. The diagnostic procedure provided by the source focuses on the Main Board itself rather than an external communication harness.
Before Replacing the Main Board
If Main Board replacement is required:
- Confirm the exact washer model number
- Verify the correct Main Board part number
- Disconnect power before servicing the washer
- Inspect connectors during replacement
- Transfer or reconnect wiring exactly as required for the model
- Follow model-specific service procedures
Electronic control boards can be model-specific, and visually similar boards should not be assumed to be interchangeable.
When to Call a Professional Technician
An EE error is generally less suitable for homeowner troubleshooting than codes caused by simple conditions such as an open door, clogged drain filter, or unbalanced load.
Professional diagnosis is appropriate when:
EErepeatedly returns- The washer cannot operate normally
- EE appears during Test Mode
- Main Board replacement is being considered
- Electrical or electronic testing is required
A technician can confirm the fault and identify the correct control board for the specific washer model.
Key Point
EE means EEPROM Error.
The fault is associated with the washer’s electronic memory and Main Control Board.
The referenced LG diagnostic procedure is very specific: enter Test Mode and check the display at the first press of the Start button. If EE appears, the specified corrective action is to replace the Main Board.
F1 — Temperature Too High Error
The F1 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Temperature Too High Error.
The washer has detected that the temperature inside the tub has become too high because there is not enough airflow.
This condition is associated with the washer’s drying and airflow system. Restricted airflow can prevent heat from being removed or circulated properly, allowing the temperature inside the appliance to rise beyond the expected operating range.
What Does the F1 Error Mean?
During drying operation, the appliance must maintain adequate airflow through the drying system.
If airflow becomes restricted, heat can accumulate inside the tub instead of moving through the system normally.
According to the LG diagnostic reference, the cause of F1 is:
The temperature in the tub is too high due to insufficient airflow.
This makes airflow restriction the primary area to investigate before assuming that an electronic component has failed.
Common Causes
Possible conditions associated with an F1 error include:
- Clogged lint filter
- Heavy lint accumulation on the filter
- Dirty lint filter restricting airflow
- Dirty condenser
- Lint or debris accumulated around the condenser
- Restricted airflow through the drying system
- Insufficient air circulation causing excessive tub temperature
The source specifically directs attention to the lint filter and condenser.
What You Can Check
Start with the airflow components identified by the LG diagnostic information.
1. Remove the lint filter.
Take the lint filter out of the appliance and inspect it carefully for lint and other accumulated material.
2. Clean the lint filter.
Remove accumulated lint and rinse the filter thoroughly.
Make sure the filter is clean before reinstalling it.
3. Reinstall the lint filter correctly.
Once cleaned, return the filter to its proper position.
4. Inspect and clean the condenser.
The source also recommends cleaning the condenser. A brush and vacuum can be used to remove accumulated lint and debris.
Why Airflow Is Important
The drying system depends on air movement to manage heat.
When lint or debris restricts airflow, the system may experience:
Restricted airflow → reduced heat transfer → rising tub temperature → F1 error
This is why an F1 code should first be approached as an airflow and maintenance problem, rather than immediately assuming that a temperature sensor, heater, or control board has failed.
Lint Filter Inspection
A lint filter can become restrictive even when it does not appear completely blocked.
Inspect it for:
- Heavy lint buildup
- Dust and fine debris
- Residue covering the filter surface
- Material trapped around the filter housing
Remove the filter, clean away lint, rinse it, and reinstall it correctly.
Regular lint-filter maintenance helps maintain the airflow required by the drying system.
Condenser Inspection
If the lint filter is clean but F1 returns, inspect the condenser.
Lint and debris accumulated on the condenser can reduce the amount of air moving through the drying system.
The referenced troubleshooting procedure specifically recommends cleaning the condenser using a brush and vacuum.
Take care not to damage delicate condenser surfaces while cleaning.
Does F1 Mean a Temperature Sensor Has Failed?
Not according to the referenced F1 diagnostic information.
The source identifies the cause as excessive tub temperature due to insufficient airflow and directs troubleshooting toward the lint filter and condenser.
Therefore, a temperature sensor should not be replaced simply because F1 appears.
The airflow system should be inspected and cleaned first.
If the F1 Code Returns
If F1 returns after the lint filter and condenser have been thoroughly cleaned, the drying system may require further diagnosis.
A technician may need to investigate whether airflow remains restricted elsewhere in the system or whether another drying-system problem is causing excessive temperature.
Further inspection may include:
- Airflow passages
- Drying-system components
- Fan operation
- Temperature monitoring components
- Wiring and connectors
- Electronic controls associated with drying
These additional possibilities go beyond the specific troubleshooting steps given on the referenced F1 page, so they should be treated as secondary diagnostic areas, not confirmed causes of the code.
Is F1 Used on Every LG Front-Load Washer?
No.
Because the referenced troubleshooting procedure involves a lint filter, condenser, airflow, and excessive temperature, this F1 definition applies to LG washer models equipped with the relevant drying system.
Error-code definitions and diagnostic procedures can vary by model.
Always use the complete washer model number when performing component-level diagnosis.
Preventing the F1 Error
To help maintain proper drying airflow:
- Clean the lint filter regularly
- Do not allow heavy lint buildup to develop
- Rinse the filter when necessary
- Keep the condenser clean
- Remove accumulated lint and debris from accessible airflow components
- Follow the maintenance schedule for the specific LG model
Keeping these components clean helps the drying system move air and control temperature normally.
Key Point
F1 means Temperature Too High Error.
The washer has detected that the temperature inside the tub is too high because of insufficient airflow. The LG troubleshooting procedure specifically says to remove and clean the lint filter, rinse and reinstall it, and clean the condenser using a brush and vacuum.
If F1 continues to return after these airflow components have been thoroughly cleaned, further diagnosis of the drying and airflow system may be necessary.
FE — Overfill Error
The FE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an Overfill Error.
The washer has detected that the water level inside the tub is too high. The control system monitors water level through the pressure-sensing system and displays FE when it detects an overflow condition.
An FE error can be caused by a water inlet valve that continues allowing water into the washer, a problem with the water-level sensing system, a blocked or leaking pressure hose, or an electronic control problem.
What Does the FE Error Mean?
LG front-load washers use a pressure sensor (pressure switch) to monitor the amount of water inside the tub.
As the water level changes, air pressure within the pressure hose and air chamber changes. The pressure sensor converts this information into a frequency signal that the Main PCB uses to determine the water level.
The referenced diagnostic information identifies FE as an Overfill Error and states that the water level is too high.
Common Causes
Possible causes of an FE error include:
- Water inlet valve stuck open
- Defective water inlet valve
- Main PCB supplying voltage to the inlet valve when it should be off
- Loose connection between the Main PCB and pressure sensor
- Blocked pressure-sensor air hose
- Leaking or damaged pressure hose
- Buildup inside the air chamber
- Poor pressure-sensor connection
- Pressure sensor malfunction
- Wiring or connector problems
The exact cause can often be narrowed down by observing whether water continues entering the washer when the appliance is unplugged.
First Check: Is Water Still Entering the Washer?
This is one of the most useful tests for an FE error.
If the washer is overfilling, unplug the appliance and observe whether water continues flowing into the tub.
Water continues entering while the washer is unplugged:
The water inlet valve is likely mechanically stuck open or defective.
Water stops when the washer is unplugged:
The valve may be physically capable of closing, and the pressure-sensing system, wiring, or Main PCB should be investigated.
The source specifically uses this distinction in its FE diagnostic procedure.
Why an Inlet Valve Can Cause FE
The inlet valves control the flow of hot and cold water into the washer.
Normally, the Main PCB energizes a valve when water is required and removes power when the correct water level has been reached.
A valve can fail mechanically and remain partially or fully open even after electrical power has been removed.
This creates a characteristic symptom:
Washer unplugged → water continues entering → suspect defective inlet valve
In this situation, replacing a pressure sensor would not correct the underlying problem.
Checking for a Main PCB Problem
The opposite condition can point toward the electronic control system.
According to the source, if water does not continue entering with the washer unplugged, technicians should determine whether voltage is being supplied to the inlet valve when the washer is powered on but no wash cycle has been selected.
If voltage is being supplied to the valve when it should not be energized, the source identifies the Main PCB as defective.
This distinction helps separate:
Mechanical valve failure
from
Incorrect electronic control of the valve
Pressure Sensor & Water-Level System
If the inlet valve is not continuously receiving water or improper voltage, attention should shift toward the water-level sensing system.
The Main PCB depends on the pressure sensor to determine when enough water has entered the tub.
If the pressure sensor receives incorrect pressure information—or its signal cannot reach the Main PCB—the washer may incorrectly determine the water level or fail to stop filling at the proper time.
The source specifically recommends checking the connection between the Main PCB and pressure switch.
Pressure Hose & Air Chamber
The pressure sensor depends on an air path between the tub and sensor.
If the water-level frequency is being detected in Test Mode, LG’s diagnostic information recommends inspecting the air hose between the tub and pressure switch.
Check for:
- Blockages
- Kinks
- Cracks
- Leaks
- Loose connections
- Damaged hose
A leaking or obstructed pressure hose can prevent the pressure sensor from accurately detecting the actual water level.
The source states that the hose should be replaced if necessary.
Check the Air Chamber
The air chamber should also be inspected for buildup.
Residue inside the chamber can interfere with the pressure signal transmitted through the hose to the water-level sensor.
The referenced procedure recommends cleaning the air chamber if accumulation is found, then testing the washer again to see whether FE returns.
This is important because an FE code does not automatically mean the pressure sensor itself has failed.
Test Mode & Water-Level Frequency
The source recommends using Test Mode to check the water-level frequency.
It references a reading of approximately:
21.3 kHz
and notes that the displayed number should decrease as water is added.
This frequency information helps determine whether the pressure-sensing system is responding to changes in water level.
Because Test Mode procedures and displayed values can vary by model, this type of diagnostic testing is best performed using the service information for the exact washer model.
Pressure Sensor Resistance
If FE remains after the pressure hose, air chamber, and connections have been checked, the pressure sensor circuit may require electrical testing.
The source specifies approximately:
20–25 Ω between the violet and sky-blue wires at the pressure switch.
It also directs technicians to the PE error code for additional pressure-sensor diagnostic information.
These resistance measurements should be performed only with the washer safely disconnected from power and by someone familiar with electrical appliance diagnostics.
What You Can Check
For basic troubleshooting:
- Stop the washer if it is continuing to fill.
- Unplug the washer.
- Observe whether water continues entering the tub.
- If water continues flowing while unplugged, shut off the household water supply.
- Check the inlet hoses and visible connections.
- If the washer stops filling when unplugged but FE returns during operation, the pressure-sensing and control systems may require diagnosis.
Do not repeatedly operate a washer that is actively overfilling, because excessive water can cause leakage and property damage.
FE vs. PE
These two codes are related to the washer’s water-level monitoring system, but they should not be treated as identical.
FE — Overfill Error
The washer detects that the water level is too high.
PE — Pressure Sensor Error
The problem is associated more directly with the water-level pressure-sensing system.
Because both codes involve water-level information, some diagnostic areas—particularly the pressure sensor, air hose, connections, and wiring—can overlap.
If the FE Code Returns
If FE continues to return, diagnosis should follow the water-fill system logically:
Does water enter while unplugged?
→ Check the inlet valve.
Does the valve receive voltage when no cycle is selected?
→ Check the Main PCB.
Is valve operation normal?
→ Inspect the pressure-sensor connection.
Is the pressure signal abnormal?
→ Inspect the pressure hose and air chamber.
Are hose and chamber clear?
→ Check the pressure sensor, wiring, and control circuit.
This sequence is preferable to replacing components based only on the displayed code.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended when:
- The washer continuously fills with water
- FE repeatedly returns
- The inlet valve requires electrical testing
- Pressure-sensor frequency needs to be checked
- The pressure hose and air chamber require internal inspection
- Main PCB output voltage needs to be measured
- Wiring or pressure-sensor resistance needs to be tested
If the washer is actively overfilling, turn off the water supply and disconnect power until the problem is corrected.
Key Point
FE means Overfill Error.
The LG washer has detected that the water level inside the tub is too high. A particularly useful first diagnostic step is to determine whether water continues entering when the washer is unplugged.
If it does, suspect a defective inlet valve. If it does not, diagnosis moves toward the Main PCB, pressure sensor, pressure hose, air chamber, wiring, and connections. The source also specifies a pressure-switch resistance of approximately 20–25 Ω between the violet and sky-blue wires and uses approximately 21.3 kHz as a Test Mode water-level frequency reference.
IE — Inlet Error
The IE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an Inlet Error.
The washer is not detecting the expected increase in water level while filling. The Main PCB determines this by monitoring the water-level pressure sensor frequency.
If too little water enters the tub—or water enters but the pressure-sensing system does not detect the expected change—the washer may stop the cycle and display IE.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the IE error include:
- Water supply faucet is closed or not fully open
- Household water pressure is too low
- Water inlet hose is kinked, pinched, or crushed
- Inlet valve filter screens are clogged
- Water inlet valve is not opening correctly
- Water inlet valve has an open electrical winding
- Wiring or connector problem at the inlet valves
- Wiring or connector problem at the Main PCB
- Main PCB is not supplying voltage to the inlet valve
- Pressure sensor hose is cracked or leaking
- Pressure sensor hose or air chamber is blocked
- Pressure sensor or its circuit is malfunctioning
- Drain hose is installed too deeply into the standpipe, causing siphoning
- Flood-safe inlet hoses are interfering with normal valve operation
LG’s diagnostic information therefore treats IE as a water-fill / water-level detection problem, not simply as a failed inlet valve.
What You Can Check
1. Make sure the water faucets are fully open.
Check both hot and cold water supplies where applicable.
A partially closed valve can restrict flow enough for the washer to determine that filling is taking too long.
2. Inspect the inlet hoses.
Make sure the hoses behind the washer are not:
- Kinked
- Pinched
- Crushed
- Bent sharply
This is particularly important if the washer has recently been moved.
3. Check the inlet filter screens.
Sediment and mineral deposits can clog the small screens at the water inlet connections and significantly reduce water flow.
LG specifically recommends cleaning the inlet filters when they are clogged.
Check the Household Water Pressure
The source specifies an incoming water pressure range of:
20–120 psi (138–827 kPa).
Pressure below the required range may prevent the washer from filling quickly enough.
If supply pressure exceeds 120 psi, the reference recommends installing a pressure-reducing valve.
Avoid Flood-Safe Inlet Hoses
The diagnostic information specifically asks whether flood-safe hoses are being used.
According to the source, these hoses should not be used because the LG washer’s water valves operate in a pulsing manner, which can interfere with the operation of some flood-safe hose mechanisms.
Standard appropriate washer supply hoses should be used instead.
Check the Drain Hose for Siphoning
This is an important and easily overlooked cause of IE.
The washer may actually be receiving water correctly, but if the drain hose is inserted too deeply into the standpipe, water can siphon back out while the washer is filling.
The result can look like this:
Water enters → water siphons out → water level does not rise → pressure sensor does not detect expected change → IE
The source specifies installing the drain hose only about 4 inches below the elbow bracket.
This means an IE code does not necessarily mean that water isn’t entering the washer.
Water Inlet Valve Testing
If the external water supply is normal, the inlet valves may require electrical testing.
With the washer unplugged, disconnect the valve harness and measure resistance.
The source specifies approximately:
120 VAC valves: 800–1200 Ω
DC valves: 26–28 Ω
An open reading indicates that the affected valve should be replaced.
Because different LG models can use different valve systems, identify whether the particular washer uses AC or DC valves before interpreting the measurement.
Inlet Valve Voltage
The water valves can also be activated individually through the washer’s Test Mode.
The source specifies approximately:
120 VAC for AC valve systems
or
12 V for DC models.
If the expected voltage is not present at the valve, check the voltage at the Main PCB.
The diagnostic logic is:
No voltage at valve → check Main PCB output
No voltage at Main PCB → suspect/replace Main PCB
Voltage at Main PCB but not at valve → suspect wiring harness or connection problem
This prevents replacing an inlet valve when the real problem is that the valve is not receiving power.
Pressure Sensor & Water-Level Detection
If the inlet valves operate correctly, the next question is whether the washer recognizes the rising water level.
During Test Mode, the water-level frequency should decrease as water enters the tub.
If water is clearly entering but the frequency does not change normally, inspect:
- Pressure sensor hose
- Air chamber
- Pressure sensor
- Sensor wiring and connections
A failure anywhere in this system can make the washer behave as though it is not filling even when water is physically entering the tub.
Pressure Sensor Hose Problems
The source specifically identifies a small hole in the pressure sensor tube as a possible IE cause.
It instructs replacement of the pressure sensor assembly, because the tube is supplied with the pressure sensor.
The pressure hose and air chamber should also be inspected for:
- Cracks
- Air leaks
- Blockages
- Detergent residue
- Debris
- Loose connections
Any condition that prevents pressure from reaching the sensor correctly can interfere with water-level detection.
Pressure Sensor Electrical Testing
The source provides additional specifications for checking the pressure sensor:
Pin 1 to Pin 3: approximately 20–25 Ω
With the sensor connected:
Pin 2 to Pin 3: approximately 2.5–3 VDC
Pin 2 to Pin 1: approximately 2.5–3 VDC
These are technician-level measurements and should be performed using the service information for the exact washer model.
IE Does Not Always Mean a Bad Inlet Valve
This is particularly important for this error code.
IE tells you that the washer did not detect the expected water-level increase. It does not identify one failed component by itself.
For example:
No water entering
→ Check supply, hoses, filters, inlet valves, valve power.
Water entering but level not rising
→ Check for drain-hose siphoning.
Water level rising but control does not recognize it
→ Check pressure hose, air chamber, pressure sensor, wiring.
Valve receives no power
→ Check wiring and Main PCB.
Following the symptoms is more reliable than replacing the inlet valve based only on IE.
If the IE Code Returns
A useful diagnostic sequence is:
Water faucets → household water pressure → inlet hoses → filter screens → drain hose installation → inlet valves → valve voltage → wiring/Main PCB → pressure hose & air chamber → pressure sensor
This sequence covers both the simple installation-related causes and the electrical faults identified by the LG diagnostic reference.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis may be appropriate when:
- IE continues after confirming adequate water supply
- Inlet valves require resistance or voltage testing
- Water enters but the washer does not recognize the level
- Pressure sensor testing is required
- Wiring continuity needs to be checked
- Main PCB output needs to be measured
- The washer repeatedly fills and drains because of an unresolved condition
Before replacing parts, the technician should determine whether the problem is with water delivery, water retention, or water-level detection.
Key Point
IE means Inlet Error.
The Main PCB is not detecting the expected increase in water level through the pressure-sensor system.
Start with the simple causes: fully open the water faucets, check water pressure, straighten the inlet hoses, and clean the inlet filter screens. Also inspect the drain hose position, because a hose inserted too deeply into the standpipe can siphon water out while the washer fills and trigger IE.
If those checks are normal, diagnosis should move to the inlet valves, wiring, Main PCB, pressure sensor hose, air chamber, and pressure sensor.
LE — Locked Rotor Error
The LE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Locked Rotor Error.
The washer has detected that the drive motor cannot rotate the drum as expected.
Although the code is associated with the motor system, LE does not automatically mean the motor or Main Board has failed. Mechanical resistance, damaged rotor magnets, stator problems, wiring faults, tub-bearing failure, or a Hall Sensor problem on applicable models can all prevent normal drum rotation.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the LE error include:
- Drum cannot rotate freely
- Failed or damaged tub bearing
- Foreign object trapped between the inner and outer tubs
- Cracked or damaged rotor magnets
- Loose rotor bolt
- Loose stator bolts
- Damaged rotor, clutch, or coupler components
- Damaged stator windings
- Stator resistance outside the expected range
- Loose stator electrical connector
- Damaged stator wiring harness
- Open wiring between the Main Board and stator
- Hall Sensor problem on models equipped with one
The LG diagnostic reference recommends starting with a manual drum-rotation check before replacing electrical components.
First Check: Does the Drum Turn Freely by Hand?
With the washer powered off, rotate the drum manually.
The drum should rotate without severe resistance, grinding, or a gritty mechanical feel.
If the drum is difficult to turn, possible causes include:
- Tub-bearing failure
- Foreign object between the tubs
- Rotor or drive-system damage
If the drum turns but produces unusual noise, the rotor, stator, bearing, and related mechanical components should be inspected.
This distinction is important because a mechanically locked drum can trigger LE even when the electrical motor components are functioning normally.
Listen & Feel for Bearing Problems
Rotate the drum slowly by hand and pay attention to how it feels.
A failing tub bearing may produce:
- Grinding
- Roughness
- Gritty sensation
- Abnormal vibration
- Mechanical resistance
- Unusual noise as the drum rotates
The source states that if the other inspected motor components are normal but these symptoms are present, a bad tub bearing is a likely cause.
Depending on the washer model, the bearing may be available separately or the entire tub assembly may need to be replaced.
Check for Foreign Objects
A foreign object trapped between the inner drum and outer tub can physically restrict drum movement.
Possible objects can include small items that pass through openings in the drum during washing.
If the drum cannot rotate freely, mechanical obstruction should be eliminated before diagnosing the stator, Hall Sensor, or electronic controls.
Inspect the Rotor & Magnets
The rotor is part of the washer’s direct-drive motor system.
The source specifically recommends checking:
- Rotor bolt
- Rotor magnets
- Rotor assembly
- Clutch/coupler components where applicable
A loose rotor bolt should be tightened during reassembly.
Cracked or damaged rotor magnets can interfere with motor operation and may cause LE. Damaged rotor components should be replaced.
Inspect the Stator
The stator contains the motor windings responsible for creating the magnetic field that turns the rotor.
The source identifies stator winding resistance outside approximately:
5–15 Ω
as a possible cause of LE.
In other words, resistance:
greater than 15 Ω or less than 5 Ω
can indicate an abnormal stator condition according to this diagnostic reference.
The stator should also be visually inspected for damage, and its mounting bolts should be checked for looseness.
Because specifications can vary by model, component-level measurements should always be compared with the service information for the exact washer.
Check the Stator Wiring Harness
If the drum moves freely and there is no obvious mechanical damage, inspect the electrical connections to the motor.
Check for:
- Disconnected stator connector
- Loose connector
- Damaged harness
- Broken conductors
- Poor terminal contact
- Wiring damage between the stator and Main Board
The source specifically recommends checking continuity from the Main Board to the stator. If continuity is absent, the damaged harness should be replaced.
Hall Sensor & LE Error
Some LG front-load washers use a Hall Sensor to monitor motor position and rotation.
A Hall Sensor problem can cause LE if the sensor signal is outside the expected range.
However, this does not apply to every LG front-load washer.
Earlier models were manufactured with a Hall Sensor, while LG later phased the Hall Sensor out on some designs. The wiring diagram or exploded parts view for the exact model should therefore be checked before attempting Hall Sensor diagnosis.
Hall Sensor Resistance Test
For models equipped with the applicable Hall Sensor, the source provides the following resistance specifications with the washer powered off:
White → Red: 8–12 kΩ
White → Blue: 8–12 kΩ
A reading outside the expected range may indicate a Hall Sensor or associated circuit problem.
Do not apply these values to a washer that does not use this Hall Sensor design.
Hall Sensor Voltage & Pulse Test
The source also provides a powered diagnostic procedure for applicable Hall Sensor models.
With the washer powered on but not running:
White → Gray: approximately 10–15 VDC
Then rotate the drum manually and check:
Gray → Red: approximately 10 VDC pulses
Gray → Blue: approximately 10 VDC pulses
The changing pulse signals allow the control system to detect motor position as the drum rotates.
If the expected signals are absent, the Hall Sensor, its wiring, or associated circuit requires further diagnosis.
These are technician-level live-voltage measurements and should not be attempted without appropriate electrical-service experience.
If the Drum Makes Noise
The source provides a useful diagnostic split based on whether the drum makes abnormal noise when turned manually.
If noise is present:
- Inspect the rotor and stator.
- Check whether the rotor bolt is loose.
- Check the stator mounting bolts.
- Inspect the rotor, clutch, and coupler assembly where applicable.
- Inspect the stator harness.
- If these components are normal, investigate the tub bearing.
This helps distinguish a mechanical drive problem from an electronic motor-control problem.
If the Drum Turns Quietly & Freely
If there is no abnormal mechanical noise and the drum rotates normally by hand, attention shifts toward the motor electrical system.
Inspect:
- Stator connector
- Hall Sensor connector, if equipped
- Rotor magnets
- Stator windings
- Wiring harness
- Continuity between Main Board and stator
A freely rotating drum makes a severe bearing seizure or physical obstruction less likely.
Does LE Mean the Motor Must Be Replaced?
No.
This is one of the most important points about the LE code.
LE means the washer has detected a Locked Rotor condition—essentially, the motor cannot turn the drum as expected. It does not identify one specific failed component.
The actual problem may be mechanical:
Bearing → obstruction → rotor damage
or electrical:
Stator → wiring → Hall Sensor (if equipped) → associated motor-control circuit
Replacing the motor assembly without first determining why the rotor cannot turn can lead to unnecessary parts replacement.
A Practical LE Diagnostic Sequence
A logical diagnostic order is:
Turn drum by hand → listen/feel for mechanical resistance → inspect for obstruction → inspect rotor & magnets → check rotor/stator mounting → inspect stator → check stator resistance → inspect wiring & continuity → test Hall Sensor if the model uses one
This follows the diagnostic direction given by the LG reference while separating mechanical and electrical causes.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended when:
- Drum is difficult to rotate manually
- Grinding or roughness suggests bearing failure
- Rotor removal is necessary
- Stator resistance needs to be measured
- Rotor magnets appear damaged
- Motor wiring continuity needs testing
- Hall Sensor voltage or pulse testing is required
- LE repeatedly returns after basic checks
Motor-system diagnosis can involve heavy mechanical components and live electrical measurements, so advanced testing is better handled with the correct service information and equipment.
Key Point
LE means Locked Rotor Error.
The washer has detected that the motor cannot turn the drum normally. Do not assume that LE automatically means a failed motor.
Start by checking whether the drum rotates freely by hand. Mechanical resistance can point toward a tub bearing, foreign object, rotor, or other drive-system problem. If the drum rotates normally, investigate the rotor magnets, stator, wiring harness, electrical connections, and Hall Sensor on models that use one.
The source specifies approximately 5–15 Ω for the stator windings and, for applicable Hall Sensor models, 8–12 kΩ from White-to-Red and White-to-Blue.
LE1 — Fan Motor Error
The LE1 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Fan Motor Error.
The washer has detected a problem with the fan motor used during the drying cycle. According to the LG diagnostic reference, the primary condition associated with LE1 is that the fan motor is restricted.
This code applies to LG washer models equipped with the relevant drying system and fan motor. It should not be confused with the standard LE code, which indicates a Locked Rotor Error involving the main drum drive system.
Common Causes
Possible causes of an LE1 error include:
- Fan motor is physically restricted
- Fan motor cannot rotate normally
- Fan motor connector is disconnected
- Poor electrical contact at the fan motor connector
- Open wiring harness between the fan motor and controller
- Damaged fan motor wiring
- Abnormal fan motor winding resistance
- Fan motor failure
The source specifically identifies fan restriction, connector problems, and an open wiring harness as the primary diagnostic areas.
What Does the Fan Motor Do?
The fan motor is part of the drying system on applicable LG washer models.
According to the source, it is a:
3-phase 24 VDC motor
and it operates during the dry cycle.
Its purpose is to move air through the drying system. If the motor becomes restricted or cannot operate electrically, the washer can detect abnormal fan operation and display LE1.
Because this code relates to the drying fan, it should not automatically be interpreted as a problem with the washer’s main direct-drive drum motor.
First Check: Is the Fan Motor Restricted?
The source identifies a restricted fan motor as the cause of LE1.
The fan assembly should therefore be inspected for anything preventing normal rotation.
Possible physical problems can include:
- Debris around the fan
- Lint accumulation
- An obstruction contacting the fan
- Fan wheel interference
- Mechanical resistance inside the motor
If the fan cannot rotate normally, the restriction should be corrected before electrical components are replaced.
Check the Fan Motor Connector
If there is no obvious mechanical restriction, inspect the electrical connector at the fan motor.
The source specifically states that if the fan-motor connector is disconnected or has a contact fault, the connector should be reconnected and the poor connection corrected.
Inspect for:
- Disconnected connector
- Connector not fully seated
- Loose terminals
- Backed-out terminals
- Bent contacts
- Damaged connector housing
- Corrosion or contamination
- Damaged wires entering the connector
A poor connection can prevent the motor from operating even when the fan motor itself is functional.
Check the Wiring Harness
The next diagnostic area is the wiring between the fan motor and controller.
The source states that if the harness between the fan motor assembly and controller is open, the fan-motor harness should be replaced.
The harness should be checked for:
- Broken wires
- Open conductors
- Pinched wiring
- Damaged insulation
- Loose terminals
- Connector damage
- Lack of continuity
An open harness can produce an LE1 condition without requiring replacement of the fan motor.
Fan Motor Resistance
The source provides specific winding-resistance values for the fan motor.
The motor windings should measure approximately:
11 Ω ±10%
between each pair of terminals.
Specifically:
Pin 1 → Pin 2: approximately 11 Ω ±10%
Pin 1 → Pin 3: approximately 11 Ω ±10%
Pin 2 → Pin 3: approximately 11 Ω ±10%
Because this is a three-phase motor, the three measurements should be reasonably similar.
What the Resistance Readings Can Tell You
A healthy three-phase motor should generally show comparable resistance across its three winding combinations.
For this fan motor, the reference value is approximately 11 Ω ±10%.
If one pair produces a substantially different reading—or an open circuit while the others measure normally—the motor winding may be damaged.
For example, the diagnostic pattern is:
1–2 ≈ 11 Ω
1–3 ≈ 11 Ω
2–3 ≈ 11 Ω
→ windings are electrically consistent with the source specification.
If one or more measurements are open or significantly outside the expected range, further fan-motor diagnosis is required.
Always disconnect power before performing resistance measurements.
Does LE1 Mean the Fan Motor Must Be Replaced?
Not necessarily.
The source specifically identifies multiple conditions that should be checked before replacing the motor:
Fan restriction → connector/contact problem → open harness → fan motor
A disconnected connector or broken wire can prevent an otherwise functional motor from operating.
For this reason, replacing the fan motor based only on the LE1 code can result in unnecessary parts replacement.
LE vs. LE1
These two codes look similar but indicate very different systems.
LE — Locked Rotor Error
This relates to the main drum drive motor. Possible causes include mechanical drum restriction, bearing problems, rotor magnets, stator windings, motor wiring, and Hall Sensor problems on applicable models.
LE1 — Fan Motor Error
This relates to the fan motor used during the drying cycle. The primary diagnostic areas are fan restriction, fan-motor connector, wiring harness, and fan motor itself.
Therefore, troubleshooting procedures for LE should not automatically be applied to LE1.
Why LE1 May Appear During Drying
The source states that the fan motor turns on during the dry cycle.
This explains why a washer may perform normal washing functions but develop an LE1 problem when drying is used.
The sequence can be:
Dry cycle begins → fan motor should operate → fan is restricted or electrically unable to operate → abnormal fan operation detected → LE1
This symptom can help distinguish LE1 from a main drive-motor problem.
If the LE1 Code Returns
If LE1 returns, a logical diagnostic sequence is:
Check fan for restriction → inspect fan connector → correct poor contacts → inspect harness → test harness continuity → measure all three motor windings → diagnose fan motor
The source specifically instructs:
- Correct a disconnected or poor fan-motor connection.
- Replace the fan-motor harness if it is open.
- Expect approximately 11 Ω ±10% across each of the three winding combinations.
This sequence helps separate a mechanical restriction from a wiring or motor failure.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis may be appropriate when:
- LE1 repeatedly returns during drying
- Fan motor cannot rotate normally
- Access to the fan assembly requires appliance disassembly
- Wiring continuity needs to be tested
- Fan motor resistance needs to be measured
- Connector or harness damage is suspected
- Fan motor replacement is being considered
Because the fan is an internal component of the drying system, accessing it may require significant disassembly depending on the washer model.
Key Point
LE1 means Fan Motor Error.
It is not the same as the LE Locked Rotor Error. LE1 concerns the fan motor used during the dry cycle.
According to the LG diagnostic reference, start by checking whether the fan motor is restricted, then inspect the fan-motor connector and wiring harness between the fan assembly and controller.
The fan is a 3-phase 24 VDC motor, and its windings should measure approximately 11 Ω ±10% between Pins 1–2, Pins 1–3, and Pins 2–3.
If the fan moves freely and the connector and harness are good but the winding measurements are abnormal, the fan motor itself becomes the likely fault.
LE2 — Compressor Error
The LE2 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Compressor Error.
The washer has detected that the compressor is not running when operation is expected. This code applies to LG washer models equipped with a compressor-based drying system.
Unlike LE, which relates to the main drum drive system, or LE1, which relates to the drying fan motor, LE2 specifically points to the compressor circuit and compressor operation.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the LE2 error include:
- Compressor is not running
- Compressor connector is disconnected
- Poor electrical contact at the compressor connector
- Damaged compressor wiring harness
- Open circuit in the compressor harness
- Failed compressor
The LG diagnostic reference specifically directs troubleshooting toward the compressor connector, electrical connection, harness continuity, and compressor itself.
What Does the Compressor Do?
On applicable LG washer models with a compressor-based drying system, the compressor is part of the system used during drying.
If the compressor does not operate when commanded, the drying system cannot function normally and the control system may display LE2.
Because not every LG front-load washer uses this type of drying system, LE2 should always be interpreted using the exact washer model number.
First Check: Compressor Connector
The LG diagnostic procedure first instructs technicians to check the compressor connector.
If the connector is disconnected, reconnect it.
If the connector has a contact fault, correct the poor connection.
Inspect the connection for:
- Connector not fully seated
- Loose terminals
- Backed-out terminals
- Bent or damaged contacts
- Damaged connector housing
- Corrosion or contamination
- Damaged wires near the connector
A poor connection can prevent an otherwise functional compressor from operating.
Check the Compressor Harness
If the compressor connector is properly installed, the next step is to inspect the compressor wiring harness.
The source specifically instructs technicians to:
Check the Compressor Harness for continuity.
A continuity test can identify an open electrical path between the compressor and the rest of its circuit.
Inspect the harness for:
- Broken conductors
- Open wiring
- Pinched wires
- Damaged insulation
- Loose terminals
- Damaged connectors
- Physical damage along the harness
If the harness has an open circuit, the compressor may be unable to operate even though the compressor itself is functional.
What If the Harness Is Open?
The referenced LG diagnostic procedure is straightforward:
If the compressor harness fails the continuity check, replace the harness.
This is important because replacing the compressor before checking the wiring could result in an unnecessary and considerably more expensive repair.
A logical sequence is:
Connector → connection quality → harness continuity → compressor
Does LE2 Automatically Mean a Failed Compressor?
No.
Although LE2 is a Compressor Error, the LG diagnostic procedure does not immediately instruct technicians to replace the compressor.
It first directs them to:
- Check the compressor connector.
- Correct a poor connection if present.
- Check the compressor harness for continuity.
- Replace the harness if defective.
- Replace the compressor if necessary.
Therefore, LE2 means the compressor is not running, but the reason may be external to the compressor itself.
Compressor Replacement
If:
- The compressor connector is secure,
- Electrical contact is good,
- The compressor harness has continuity,
- The wiring path is intact,
but the compressor still does not operate, the diagnostic procedure ultimately calls for compressor replacement.
Compressor replacement is not a typical DIY repair. The exact service procedure depends on the drying-system design and washer model.
LE vs. LE1 vs. LE2
These three LG codes look closely related but identify very different problems:
LE — Locked Rotor Error
The main drive motor cannot rotate the drum as expected.
LE1 — Fan Motor Error
The drying-system fan motor is restricted or unable to operate normally.
LE2 — Compressor Error
The compressor is not running.
This distinction is particularly important when building a troubleshooting guide because the diagnostic procedures for these three codes should not be combined.
What You Can Check
Homeowners can perform only limited checks for LE2.
You can:
- Turn the washer off
- Disconnect it from power for several minutes
- Restore power and see whether LE2 returns
- Note whether the error occurs specifically during drying
- Record the complete washer model number
Internal compressor wiring and continuity testing require access to electrical components and are better suited to professional diagnosis.
Repeatedly resetting the washer should not be considered a repair if LE2 consistently returns.
If the LE2 Code Returns
A technician should follow a systematic diagnostic sequence:
Compressor connector → connector contact → compressor harness → harness continuity → compressor
Specifically:
Disconnected connector
→ Reconnect it.
Poor connector contact
→ Correct the connection.
Harness has no continuity
→ Repair/replace the harness as appropriate.
Connector and harness are good but compressor does not operate
→ Compressor becomes the primary suspect.
This sequence closely follows the troubleshooting path given by the referenced LG diagnostic information.
Do Not Confuse LE2 With a Main Motor Problem
Because LE2 begins with the same letters as the common LG LE error, it can easily be mistaken for a main drive-motor fault.
However, the referenced LE2 page specifically identifies it as:
COMPRESSOR ERROR
with the cause:
The Compressor is not running.
Therefore, troubleshooting the rotor, stator, Hall Sensor, or tub bearing—as you would for a standard LE code—would be the wrong diagnostic path for this definition of LE2.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional service is appropriate when:
LE2repeatedly returns- The compressor does not operate
- Compressor connector inspection requires appliance disassembly
- Harness continuity must be tested
- Compressor replacement is being considered
Because this error involves the compressor-based drying system, component-level troubleshooting should use service information for the exact LG model.
Key Point
LE2 means Compressor Error.
The washer has detected that the compressor is not running. Do not immediately assume that the compressor itself has failed.
The LG diagnostic sequence is straightforward:
Check compressor connector → correct poor connection → check compressor harness continuity → replace defective harness → replace compressor if the circuit is intact but the compressor still does not operate.
LE3 — Drying Blower Fan Motor Error
The LE3 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Drying Blower Fan Motor Error.
The washer has detected that the drying blower fan motor is restricted or locked and cannot operate normally.
This code applies to LG washer-combo models equipped with the corresponding drying blower system. Because the blower is used during drying, LE3 may appear even when the washer can perform its washing functions normally.
Common Causes
Possible causes of the LE3 error include:
- Drying blower fan is physically restricted
- Blower fan motor is locked
- Fan motor bearing is binding or damaged
- Debris or buildup is interfering with fan movement
- Fan motor connector is disconnected
- Poor electrical contact at the fan connector
- Open wiring harness between the fan motor and controller
- Damaged fan motor wiring
- Abnormal fan motor windings
- Failed drying blower fan motor
The LG diagnostic reference specifically directs technicians to check the connector, wiring harness, motor windings, and fan-motor bearing.
What Does the Drying Blower Fan Do?
On applicable LG washer-combo models, the drying blower fan moves air through the drying system during a dry cycle.
The reference uses the WM6998 washer combo as its diagnostic example. On this model, the drying blower fan uses a:
3-phase 24 VDC motor
The motor operates during the dry cycle.
If the blower becomes mechanically restricted or the motor cannot operate electrically, normal drying airflow cannot be maintained and the washer may display LE3.
First Check: Is the Blower Fan Restricted or Locked?
Because the source defines the cause as a blower motor that is restricted or locked, mechanical inspection is an important first step.
With power disconnected, inspect the blower assembly for conditions that could prevent normal movement.
Check for:
- Fan wheel obstruction
- Debris around the blower
- Material contacting the fan
- Excessive resistance when turning
- Binding
- Damaged fan components
- Bearing problems
If the fan cannot rotate normally, determine what is causing the restriction before replacing electronic components.
Check the Fan Motor Bearing
Unlike some error codes that focus primarily on electrical faults, the LE3 diagnostic information specifically says to check the bearing of the fan motor.
A deteriorated or seized bearing can create enough mechanical resistance to prevent the motor from reaching normal operating speed—or prevent it from turning at all.
Signs of a possible bearing problem may include:
- Fan difficult to rotate
- Rough rotation
- Grinding or scraping
- Excessive mechanical resistance
- Fan stopping quickly after being turned manually
- Abnormal noise during drying
A mechanically locked blower should be corrected before proceeding with control-system diagnosis.
Check the Fan Motor Connector
If the blower is mechanically free, inspect the fan motor electrical connection.
The LG reference specifically instructs technicians to reconnect the connector and correct any poor connection or contact fault.
Inspect for:
- Disconnected connector
- Connector not fully seated
- Loose terminals
- Bent contacts
- Backed-out terminals
- Damaged connector housing
- Corrosion or contamination
- Damaged wires near the connector
A poor connection can prevent an otherwise functional blower motor from operating.
Check the Fan Motor Wiring Harness
Next, inspect the wiring between the fan motor assembly and controller.
According to the source, if this harness is open, the fan-motor harness should be replaced.
Check the harness for:
- Broken wires
- Open conductors
- Pinched wiring
- Damaged insulation
- Loose terminals
- Damaged connectors
- Lack of electrical continuity
An open harness can produce LE3 even when the blower motor itself is functional.
Drying Blower Motor Resistance
For the WM6998 example used by the source, the drying blower uses a 3-phase 24 VDC motor with approximately:
11 Ω winding resistance
The specified measurements are:
Pin 1 → Pin 2: 11 Ω ±10%
Pin 1 → Pin 3: 11 Ω ±10%
Pin 2 → Pin 3: 11 Ω ±10%
All three measurements should therefore be reasonably similar.
Resistance testing must be performed with power disconnected.
What the Resistance Measurements Can Tell You
Because this is a three-phase motor, comparing all three winding measurements is useful.
A normal pattern based on the WM6998 example would be approximately:
1–2 ≈ 11 Ω
1–3 ≈ 11 Ω
2–3 ≈ 11 Ω
If one winding pair is open or substantially different from the others, the blower motor may have an internal winding problem.
However, these exact values come from the WM6998 example. The source states that other washer-combo models may be basically similar while wiring colors can differ. Therefore, model-specific service information should be used before making a final component diagnosis.
Does LE3 Mean the Blower Motor Must Be Replaced?
Not necessarily.
LE3 tells you that the drying blower fan motor is restricted or locked, but several different conditions can prevent it from operating.
The diagnostic path should be:
Mechanical restriction → fan bearing → connector → wiring harness → motor windings → fan motor
For example, replacing the motor would not solve the problem if the actual cause is an open wiring harness or poor connector contact.
LE1 vs. LE3
These codes deserve particular attention because both involve a fan motor.
For LE3, the referenced page specifically defines the fault as:
Drying Blower Fan Motor Error
and identifies a restricted or locked drying blower fan motor as the cause.
The LE3 page uses the WM6998 as an example and gives the 3-phase 24 VDC blower specifications above.
Therefore, even when two LG codes appear to involve similar drying components, the diagnostic information for the specific code and washer model should be followed rather than assuming the codes are interchangeable.
Why LE3 May Appear During Drying
The source states that the drying blower motor operates during the dry cycle.
This creates a useful symptom pattern:
Washing works normally → dry cycle begins → blower should operate → blower is restricted/locked or electrically unable to run → LE3 appears
If the washer operates normally until drying is used, that behavior is consistent with investigating the drying blower system rather than the main drum drive motor.
WM6998 Model-Specific Information
The LG diagnostic page uses the WM6998 washer combo as its example.
On this model:
- Drying blower fan is located in the top-right area
- Main Board and Inverter Board are located in the bottom-front area
- The front bulkhead must be removed to make checks from the boards
- Blower motor is 3-phase, 24 VDC
- Motor operates during the dry cycle
- Winding resistance is approximately 11 Ω ±10% between each pair of motor pins
These physical locations should not be assumed to be identical on every LG washer combo.
If the LE3 Code Returns
If LE3 continues to return, a technician should follow a systematic diagnostic sequence:
1. Check the blower for mechanical restriction.
Make sure the fan is not blocked or locked.
2. Check the fan-motor bearing.
Look for binding, roughness, or excessive resistance.
3. Inspect the fan-motor connector.
Reconnect it and correct poor contact if necessary.
4. Check the wiring harness.
Test continuity between the fan motor assembly and controller.
5. Test the motor windings.
On the WM6998 example, expect approximately 11 Ω ±10% between each pair of motor terminals.
6. Diagnose the blower motor.
If the mechanical system, connector, and harness are good but the motor does not operate or its windings test abnormally, the motor itself becomes the likely fault.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is appropriate when:
- LE3 repeatedly appears during drying
- Blower fan is difficult or impossible to rotate
- Fan bearing appears damaged
- Access to the blower requires appliance disassembly
- Wiring continuity needs to be tested
- Motor winding resistance needs to be measured
- Fan motor replacement is being considered
On models such as the WM6998, reaching the control boards can require significant disassembly, making advanced LE3 diagnosis unsuitable as a simple homeowner check.
Key Point
LE3 means Drying Blower Fan Motor Error.
The washer has detected that the drying blower fan motor is restricted or locked.
Start with the mechanical side: check whether the blower can rotate normally and inspect the fan-motor bearing. Then check the fan connector and wiring harness between the motor assembly and controller.
For the WM6998 example used by the source, the blower is a 3-phase 24 VDC motor, with approximately 11 Ω ±10% between Pins 1–2, 1–3, and 2–3. Exact wiring and component locations can differ on other models, so model-specific service information should be used for final diagnosis.
LOE — Lid Open Error
The LOE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Lid Open Error.
The washer has detected that the detergent dispenser lid is open or is not properly closed. When this condition is detected, the appliance disables the washing or drying function until the dispenser lid is correctly closed.
What Does the LOE Error Mean?
On applicable LG washer models, the detergent dispensing system must be properly closed before normal washing or drying operation can continue.
If the detergent dispenser lid remains open, is not completely seated, or cannot close correctly because of a mechanical problem, the washer may display LOE.
This is primarily a dispenser-lid condition, rather than a drain, water-supply, drum-motor, or heating error.
Common Causes
Possible causes of an LOE error include:
- Detergent dispenser lid is open
- Lid is not completely closed
- Lid is not properly seated
- Something is preventing the lid from closing
- Dispenser drawer is damaged
- Dispenser housing assembly is damaged
- Mechanical damage prevents the lid from closing tightly
The source specifically directs attention to the detergent lid, dispenser drawer, and housing assembly.
What You Can Check
1. Check the detergent dispenser lid.
Make sure the lid is completely closed.
The source specifically instructs:
Close the detergent lid tightly.
If the lid appears closed but LOE remains, open it and close it again carefully, making sure it seats correctly.
2. Check for an obstruction.
Inspect the area around the dispenser lid for anything that could prevent complete closure.
Look for:
- Detergent residue
- Foreign material
- Misaligned dispenser components
- Objects caught around the lid
- Components that are not fully seated
Remove any obstruction before closing the lid again.
Inspect the Dispenser Drawer
If the lid is properly closed but LOE remains, inspect the dispenser drawer.
The LG diagnostic reference specifically recommends checking for damage to the dispenser drawer or housing assembly.
Look for:
- Cracks
- Warping
- Broken plastic
- Misalignment
- Damaged hinges or mounting points
- Parts preventing the lid from sitting correctly
A damaged drawer may prevent the lid from reaching its normal closed position even when the user appears to close it correctly.
Inspect the Dispenser Housing Assembly
The housing assembly surrounding the dispenser should also be inspected.
Physical damage or misalignment in this area can interfere with the way the lid closes.
If the lid cannot sit tightly because the housing is cracked, distorted, or otherwise damaged, simply reopening and closing the lid may not permanently clear the problem.
The damaged dispenser component may need to be repaired or replaced.
Does LOE Mean the Washer Has a Major Failure?
Not necessarily.
Compared with codes involving the Main Board, motor, compressor, or other major components, LOE can result from a relatively simple condition: the detergent dispenser lid is not closed tightly.
For this reason, the first troubleshooting step should always be to inspect and correctly close the lid before considering a component failure.
Why Washing or Drying Stops
According to the source, when the detergent dispenser lid is open, the washing or drying feature is disabled.
This behavior is intentional.
A typical sequence is:
Dispenser lid remains open → washer detects open-lid condition → washing/drying is disabled → LOE appears
Once the lid is correctly closed and the washer recognizes the proper condition, normal operation should be able to resume.
If the Lid Looks Closed but LOE Remains
If the detergent lid appears to be fully closed but LOE continues to appear:
- Open the lid again.
- Inspect the lid and surrounding area.
- Remove detergent residue or other obstructions.
- Check that dispenser components are correctly seated.
- Close the lid firmly.
- Inspect the dispenser drawer for physical damage.
- Inspect the housing assembly for cracks, warping, or misalignment.
If no visible problem is found but the washer continues to report an open lid, the dispenser system may require further professional inspection.
Does LOE Mean the Dispenser Drawer Must Be Replaced?
No.
The code itself does not prove that the dispenser drawer is defective.
The source’s troubleshooting sequence begins with the simplest condition:
Close the detergent lid tightly.
Only after that does it instruct technicians to check the dispenser drawer or housing assembly for damage.
Therefore, a sensible troubleshooting order is:
Close lid → check for obstruction → inspect lid alignment → inspect dispenser drawer → inspect housing assembly
Parts should not be replaced until an actual defect is identified.
LOE vs. ezDispense Ed Codes
LOE should also be distinguished from the Ed1–Ed5 codes.
The Ed-series codes we have already covered involve problems such as:
- Detergent dispensing
- Softener dispensing
- Detergent pump circuit
- Softener pump circuit
- ezDispense electronic communication
LOE, by contrast, indicates that the detergent dispenser lid is open.
This makes LOE primarily a lid/closure condition, rather than a pump or dispensing-performance fault.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional service may be appropriate when:
- The lid is completely closed but LOE remains
- Dispenser drawer is cracked or damaged
- Housing assembly is damaged
- Lid cannot remain securely closed
- Dispenser components are visibly misaligned
- LOE repeatedly interrupts washing or drying despite correct lid closure
A technician can inspect the dispenser assembly and determine whether a mechanical component needs adjustment or replacement.
Key Point
LOE means Lid Open Error.
The washer has detected that the detergent dispenser lid is open or not properly closed, and washing or drying is disabled while this condition is present.
Start by closing the detergent lid tightly. If LOE remains, inspect the dispenser drawer and housing assembly for damage or anything preventing proper closure. Those are the two specific corrective areas identified by the LG diagnostic reference.
nC — NFC Module Error
The nC code on an LG front-load washer indicates an NFC Module Error.
The washer has detected that the NFC module circuit is open or shorted.
Unlike many LG washer error codes, nC is a diagnostic code displayed only in Test Mode. It is not normally displayed as a standard operating error during a regular wash cycle.
What Does the nC Code Mean?
The nC code specifically identifies an electrical fault involving the washer’s NFC module.
According to the LG diagnostic reference, the condition is:
NFC module open or shorted.
This means the control system has detected an abnormal electrical condition in the NFC module or its circuit.
nC Appears Only in Test Mode
An important characteristic of this code is that:
nC is displayed only in Test Mode.
This distinction matters because a homeowner may never encounter nC during normal washer operation.
Instead, the code may appear when a technician runs the washer’s built-in diagnostic procedure and the control system checks the NFC module.
Therefore, nC should be treated primarily as a service diagnostic code rather than a typical user-facing operating error.
Common Causes
The referenced diagnostic information identifies two electrical conditions:
- NFC module circuit is open
- NFC module circuit is shorted
An open circuit means the expected electrical path through the module is interrupted.
A short circuit means an unintended low-resistance electrical path exists within the module or its circuit.
Both conditions prevent the NFC module from operating as expected.
What You Can Check
Because nC is a Test Mode diagnostic code and the source identifies an electrical module fault, there is relatively little homeowner troubleshooting associated with it.
Basic steps include:
- Record the exact code displayed in Test Mode.
- Confirm that the code is
nC. - Record the complete washer model number.
- Disconnect power before any internal inspection.
- Have the NFC module and its associated circuit professionally diagnosed if necessary.
This is not a code that should be approached by cleaning filters, checking drain hoses, balancing the load, or changing detergent.
Does nC Mean the NFC Module Should Be Replaced?
According to the referenced diagnostic procedure, yes—the specified solution is to replace the NFC module.
The source does not provide a multi-step component diagnostic tree for this code. Its troubleshooting information is concise:
Cause: NFC module open or shorted
Condition: nC appears only in Test Mode
Solution: Replace NFC module
For that reason, we should not add unsupported resistance values, voltage specifications, or detailed board-level tests to this section.
Is nC a Normal Operating Error?
No.
The source specifically states that nC is displayed only in Test Mode.
That means the washer can potentially have an NFC-related diagnostic condition without displaying nC during an ordinary wash cycle.
If the code appears while running diagnostics, it indicates that the washer has detected the NFC module fault during the service test.
nC vs. Other Electronic Errors
It is useful to distinguish nC from some of the other electronic codes in this LG washer guide.
EE — EEPROM Error
Associated with the Main Board’s EEPROM memory.
Ed5 — EZ Dispenser Communication Error
Associated with communication involving the ezDispense Sub PCB.
nC — NFC Module Error
Associated specifically with an open or shorted NFC module and displayed only in Test Mode.
Although all three involve electronics, they identify different systems and should not share the same troubleshooting procedure.
If nC Appears in Test Mode
If nC appears during Test Mode:
- Confirm the washer’s complete model number
- Confirm that the diagnostic display is
nC - Disconnect power before servicing internal components
- Identify the correct NFC module for that specific model
- Inspect the module and related connections during service
- Follow model-specific service procedures for replacement
The referenced diagnostic page ultimately specifies NFC module replacement as the solution.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional service is appropriate when nC is detected because resolving the fault involves an internal electronic module rather than a normal maintenance item.
A technician can confirm the model-specific NFC system, access the module safely, and ensure that the correct replacement component is used.
Key Point
nC means NFC Module Error.
The washer has detected that the NFC module is open or shorted. This code is unusual because it is displayed only in Test Mode, rather than as a normal wash-cycle error.
The corrective action specified by the LG diagnostic reference is straightforward:
Replace the NFC module.
nE — Modem Is Abnormal Error
The nE code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Modem Is Abnormal Error.
The washer has detected a communication problem between the customer’s router and the washer’s Wi-Fi module.
Unlike many LG washer error codes, nE is displayed only in Test Mode. It is therefore primarily a diagnostic code rather than a normal wash-cycle error.
What Does the nE Code Mean?
LG smart washers equipped with Wi-Fi connectivity use an internal Wi-Fi module to communicate with the home’s wireless network.
The nE diagnostic code indicates that this communication is abnormal.
According to the LG diagnostic reference, the cause is:
A problem with communication between the customer’s router and the Wi-Fi module.
This means the problem may be on either side of the connection:
- Home router or wireless network
- Washer’s Wi-Fi module
For that reason, the Wi-Fi module should not automatically be replaced when nE is detected.
nE Appears Only in Test Mode
One of the most important characteristics of nE is that it only appears in Test Mode.
This means it should not be described as a typical error that interrupts an ordinary wash cycle.
A technician may encounter the code while running diagnostic tests even if the washer’s primary washing functions are otherwise operating normally.
Common Causes
Based on the referenced diagnostic information, the main causes are:
- Problem with the customer’s router
- Router requires a reset
- Communication between the router and washer has been interrupted
- Washer cannot communicate properly through its Wi-Fi module
- Defective Wi-Fi module
The source does not provide voltage, resistance, or detailed board-level specifications for nE, so those should not be added to the diagnosis without model-specific service information.
What You Can Check
Because the router is specifically identified as a possible cause, start with the network side before considering washer disassembly.
1. Check the router.
Make sure the home router is powered on and operating normally.
Check whether other connected devices can access the network.
2. Restart the router.
The LG diagnostic reference specifically recommends checking or resetting the customer’s router.
Restart the router according to the router manufacturer’s instructions, allow it to reconnect, and then check the washer again.
3. Check the washer’s Wi-Fi connection.
If the router works normally but the washer continues to have connectivity problems, check whether the appliance can establish its normal Wi-Fi connection.
4. Run diagnostics again if appropriate.
Because nE appears only in Test Mode, the code can be checked again after the router/network issue has been addressed.
Does nE Mean the Wi-Fi Module Is Bad?
Not necessarily.
The source gives two main diagnostic directions:
Router problem → check or reset the router
Wi-Fi module defective → replace the Wi-Fi module
Therefore, replacing the Wi-Fi module before eliminating a router or network problem could result in unnecessary parts replacement.
A sensible troubleshooting sequence is:
Check router → reset router → verify network operation → check washer connectivity → diagnose Wi-Fi module if nE remains
Wi-Fi Module Failure
If the router is functioning normally and communication still cannot be established, the washer’s Wi-Fi module may be defective.
The corrective action given by the source in that situation is:
Replace the Wi-Fi module.
The correct module should be identified using the washer’s complete model information, because electronic components can vary between LG models.
Is nE a Washer Mechanical Failure?
No.
nE does not indicate a problem with normal mechanical systems such as:
- Drain pump
- Water inlet valves
- Drum motor
- Tub bearing
- Door lock
- Heating system
It specifically concerns router-to-Wi-Fi-module communication.
This distinction is useful because a washer may potentially perform its basic washing functions normally even though a connectivity-related diagnostic code is present.
nC vs. nE
These two codes appear next to each other in the LG washer code list, but they identify different electronic problems.
nC — NFC Module Error
The NFC module is detected as open or shorted. nC appears only in Test Mode.
nE — Modem Is Abnormal Error
There is a communication problem between the customer’s router and Wi-Fi module. nE also appears only in Test Mode.
Therefore, nC concerns the NFC module circuit, while nE concerns the washer’s Wi-Fi/network communication.
If the nE Code Returns
If nE continues to appear in Test Mode:
- Confirm that the router is operating normally.
- Restart/reset the router.
- Confirm that the wireless network is functioning.
- Check whether the washer can communicate through Wi-Fi.
- If the router is not the problem, investigate the washer’s Wi-Fi module.
- Replace the Wi-Fi module if it is confirmed defective.
This follows the troubleshooting direction given by the referenced LG diagnostic page.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional service may be appropriate if:
nErepeatedly appears in Test Mode- The router and home network operate normally
- The washer cannot establish normal Wi-Fi communication
- The internal Wi-Fi module requires inspection
- Wi-Fi module replacement is being considered
Because the source provides no detailed electrical measurements for this code, component-level diagnosis should use service information for the exact washer model.
Key Point
nE means Modem Is Abnormal Error.
It indicates a communication problem between the customer’s router and the washer’s Wi-Fi module, and the code only appears in Test Mode.
Start by checking or resetting the router. If the router and network are working normally but nE remains, the washer’s Wi-Fi module may be defective and may need to be replaced.
nF — Wi-Fi Not Connected to Router (Not an Error)
The nF code on an LG front-load washer means that the appliance is not connected to a Wi-Fi router and has not been registered.
nF is not an error code.
It is a status or diagnostic indication that appears only in Test Mode. If the washer has not been connected to the home’s Wi-Fi network and registered, nF may appear during diagnostic testing.
What Does the nF Code Mean?
The nF code indicates:
Wi-Fi Is Not Connected to Router
According to the LG diagnostic reference, the appliance has not been connected to the router and registered.
This does not indicate a mechanical or electrical failure of the washer.
It does not by itself mean there is a problem with the:
- Main Control Board
- Wi-Fi module
- Drum motor
- Water inlet system
- Drain system
- Door lock
- Heating or drying system
Instead, it simply indicates that the washer has not completed its Wi-Fi connection and registration.
nF Appears Only in Test Mode
An important characteristic of nF is that it only appears during Test Mode.
This means most owners will not encounter nF during a normal wash cycle.
A technician running the washer’s diagnostic mode may see nF when the appliance has never been connected to Wi-Fi or has not been registered through LG’s smart-appliance system.
Therefore, nF should be treated as a diagnostic status indication, not a normal operating fault.
Is nF an Error Code?
No.
The LG reference explicitly identifies nF as:
Not an Error Code.
If the washer otherwise operates normally, there is no reason to diagnose or replace mechanical components simply because nF appears in Test Mode.
If Wi-Fi functionality is desired, the appliance needs to be connected and registered.
What You Can Check
If nF appears in Test Mode:
- Check whether the washer has been connected to Wi-Fi.
If the appliance has never been connected to the home’s wireless network, nF can be expected. - Check whether the washer has been registered.
The source indicates that nF can appear when the appliance has not been connected and registered. - Make sure the home router is operating.
A functioning Wi-Fi network is required before the appliance can be connected. - Use the LG ThinQ app to connect the appliance.
The washer can be connected to the Wi-Fi network and registered through the app.
Connecting the Washer With LG ThinQ
The referenced procedure provides the following general sequence:
1. Download the LG ThinQ app.
Install the LG ThinQ app on a compatible mobile device.
2. Register or sign in.
Open the app and create an account or sign in to an existing account.
3. Determine the appropriate connection method.
The setup procedure may vary depending on the appliance and available connection method.
4. Connect using the QR code.
Applicable models can be added to the Wi-Fi network using their QR-code setup process.
5. Connect manually if necessary.
If QR-code setup is not being used, the appliance can also be connected to the Wi-Fi network manually.
Does nF Mean the Wi-Fi Module Is Defective?
No.
This is an important difference between nF and some other network-related diagnostic codes.
The referenced nF page does not identify a defective Wi-Fi module as the cause.
Instead, it says that the appliance:
has not been connected to the router and registered.
Therefore, nF alone is not evidence that the Wi-Fi module should be replaced.
nE vs. nF
These two codes are related to Wi-Fi functionality but indicate different conditions.
nE — Modem Is Abnormal Error
Indicates an abnormal communication condition involving the router and washer’s Wi-Fi system.
nF — Wi-Fi Not Connected to Router
Indicates that the appliance has not been connected to the router and registered. It is not an error code.
Both may appear during Test Mode, but they should not be interpreted the same way.
With nF, the first action is simply to determine whether Wi-Fi setup and appliance registration have been completed.
Do You Need to Connect the Washer to Wi-Fi?
If the washer is operating normally and you do not intend to use its connected features, the presence of nF in Test Mode does not by itself indicate that the washer requires repair.
Wi-Fi connectivity is used for smart features associated with LG ThinQ.
The nF indication simply reports the current connectivity/registration status.
If nF Remains After Wi-Fi Setup
If you want to use the washer’s connected features but cannot complete registration:
- Confirm that the router is working
- Repeat the LG ThinQ setup process
- Make sure the appliance is successfully added to the app
- Verify that appliance registration completes
- Follow the connection instructions for the specific washer model
If the appliance still cannot establish a connection, troubleshoot the Wi-Fi/network issue separately rather than treating nF itself as evidence of a failed component.
When Is Professional Service Necessary?
nF alone does not indicate that professional appliance repair is required.
If it appears only in Test Mode and the washer otherwise works normally, the appliance may simply not have been connected and registered.
Further troubleshooting becomes appropriate if the washer cannot connect to Wi-Fi despite correct setup, particularly if another Wi-Fi-related diagnostic code is also present.
Key Point
nF means Wi-Fi Is Not Connected to Router — and it is not an error code.
It appears only during Test Mode when the appliance has not been connected to a router and registered.
If Wi-Fi features are desired, connect and register the washer using the LG ThinQ app, either through the supported QR-code process or manual Wi-Fi setup.
nU — NFC Module Error
The nU code on an LG front-load washer indicates an NFC Module Error.
The washer has detected that the NFC module is open or shorted.
Unlike many LG washer error codes, nU is displayed only in Test Mode. This means it is primarily a service diagnostic code rather than an error that would normally appear during a regular wash cycle.
What Does the nU Code Mean?
The nU code identifies an electrical problem involving the washer’s NFC module.
According to the LG diagnostic reference, the detected condition is:
NFC module open or shorted.
An open circuit means that the expected electrical path through the module is interrupted, while a short circuit indicates an abnormal electrical path within the module or its circuit.
The washer identifies this condition during diagnostic testing and displays nU.
nU Appears Only in Test Mode
One of the most important characteristics of nU is that it is displayed only in Test Mode.
This means a homeowner would not normally encounter nU as a standard wash-cycle error.
Instead, it may appear when the washer’s diagnostic mode is used to evaluate its electronic systems.
Therefore, nU should be treated primarily as a service diagnostic code.
Common Causes
The referenced diagnostic information identifies two specific electrical conditions:
- NFC module has an open circuit
- NFC module has a short circuit
The source does not provide additional mechanical causes or troubleshooting paths for this code.
For that reason, nU should not be associated with unrelated washer systems such as the drain pump, water inlet valves, door lock, drum motor, or pressure sensor.
What You Can Check
Because nU is a Test Mode code associated with an internal electronic module, homeowner troubleshooting is limited.
If nU appears:
- Confirm that the displayed diagnostic code is
nU. - Record the washer’s complete model number.
- Exit Test Mode and determine whether the washer otherwise operates normally.
- Disconnect the washer from power before any internal inspection.
- If diagnosis or repair is required, inspect the NFC system using service information for the exact model.
The source does not provide resistance or voltage specifications for diagnosing this code, so unsupported electrical measurements should not be used.
Does nU Mean the NFC Module Should Be Replaced?
According to the referenced LG diagnostic information, yes.
The specified solution for nU is:
Replace NFC module.
Unlike codes that require a long diagnostic sequence involving several possible components, the source provides a very direct corrective action for nU.
However, the correct NFC module should always be identified using the washer’s exact model information.
Is nU a Normal Operating Error?
No.
The source specifically states that nU appears only in Test Mode.
Therefore, it should not be described as a fault that normally interrupts a wash cycle.
If nU is discovered during diagnostics, it indicates that the washer has detected an open or shorted NFC module circuit during the service test.
nC vs. nU
The referenced LG pages are unusual in this respect: both nC and nU are identified as NFC Module Error codes and describe the NFC module as open or shorted.
Both are also described as codes that appear only in Test Mode.
Therefore, based on the available LG diagnostic information, we should not invent a technical distinction between nC and nU that the source does not provide.
Model-specific service documentation may provide additional context for why one code is displayed instead of the other.
nE vs. nF vs. nU
These similar-looking diagnostic codes identify different conditions:
nE — Modem Is Abnormal Error
Indicates an abnormal communication condition involving the router and washer’s Wi-Fi system.
nF — Wi-Fi Not Connected to Router
Indicates that the appliance has not been connected to the router and registered. This is not an error code.
nU — NFC Module Error
Indicates that the NFC module is open or shorted and appears only in Test Mode.
This distinction is important because Wi-Fi troubleshooting appropriate for nE or nF would not address an nU NFC-module fault.
If nU Appears in Test Mode
If nU appears during diagnostics, a technician should:
- Confirm the exact washer model
- Confirm that the displayed code is nU
- Disconnect power before servicing internal electronics
- Identify the NFC module used by that model
- Follow the model-specific service procedure
- Replace the NFC module as specified by the diagnostic reference
Because the source does not provide additional component-level testing for nU, there is no reason to add unsupported voltage, resistance, or communication tests to the troubleshooting procedure.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional service is appropriate if nU is detected and NFC module repair or replacement is required.
The NFC module is an internal electronic component, and the correct replacement part and access procedure may differ between LG washer models.
A technician can verify the model-specific component before replacement.
Key Point
nU means NFC Module Error.
The washer has detected that the NFC module is open or shorted. The code is displayed only in Test Mode, making it primarily a diagnostic/service code rather than a normal wash-cycle error.
The corrective action specified by the referenced LG diagnostic information is straightforward:
Replace the NFC module
OE — Outlet Error / Drain Pump Error
The OE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a draining problem.
LG identifies OE as an Outlet Error / Drain Pump Error. The washer’s Main Control Board has determined, based on the water-level pressure sensor signal, that not enough water has drained from the tub.
This does not automatically mean that the drain pump has failed. A clogged filter, restricted drain hose, incorrect drain installation, foreign object, pressure-sensing problem, wiring fault, or control problem can all interfere with the draining process.
What Does the OE Error Code Mean?
During the drain portion of a cycle, the washer expects the water level inside the tub to decrease.
The Main Board monitors this change using information from the pressure sensor.
If the control does not detect that enough water has drained within the expected conditions, the washer can display the OE error code.
The problem therefore needs to be diagnosed as a drain-system fault, rather than immediately assuming the drain pump itself is defective.
Common Causes
Common conditions associated with an LG washer OE error include:
- Clogged drain pump filter
- Debris inside the drain pump housing
- Kinked, twisted, pinched, crushed, or clogged drain hose
- Drain hose installed too high
- Drain hose inserted too far into the standpipe
- Laundry or another foreign object blocking the tub-to-pump drain path
- Blocked air chamber
- Blocked pressure sensor tube
- Loose or disconnected drain pump wiring
- Damaged drain pump impeller
- Failed drain pump motor
- Drain pump wiring harness problem
- Main Control Board problem
The source specifically recommends checking the entire drainage path before condemning the pump or Main Board.
What You Can Check
1. Check the drain pump filter.
A clogged pump filter is one of the first things to inspect when an LG washer displays OE.
Clean the filter and check the pump housing for lint, debris, coins, or other objects that could restrict water flow.
Be prepared for water to come out when opening the filter area if water remains inside the washer.
2. Inspect the drain hose.
Make sure the hose is not:
- Kinked
- Twisted
- Pinched
- Crushed
- Stretched
- Blocked with debris
Pay particular attention to the area behind the washer, where the hose can become compressed against the wall.
3. Check the drain hose installation.
According to the referenced diagnostic information, the end of the drain hose should be located at least 24 inches and no more than 96 inches above the bottom of the washer.
For best draining performance, the source recommends keeping the drain outlet no higher than approximately 66 inches.
As the drain outlet is raised beyond 66 inches, draining performance can become increasingly affected.
4. Check how far the hose enters the standpipe.
The drain hose should extend no more than approximately 4 inches into the standpipe.
Incorrect installation can interfere with proper draining and may also contribute to siphoning problems.
5. Do not create an airtight seal around the drain hose.
There should be an air gap around the hose where it enters the household drain.
The source specifically warns against sealing the hose to the drain with tape or another airtight method.
Without an air gap, water may siphon from the drum and cause poor washing or rinsing performance.
Check for an Internal Drain Blockage
If the filter and external drain hose are clear, the restriction may be farther inside the washer.
The diagnostic procedure specifically recommends checking whether a laundry item or foreign object is stuck in the outer-tub drain opening or in the path from the bellows to the pump housing.
Small clothing items and debris can sometimes reach areas that are not visible simply by removing the pump filter.
Internal inspection usually requires washer disassembly and is better left to a qualified technician.
Air Chamber & Pressure Sensor Tube
OE is not exclusively a pump-related code.
Because the Main Board determines whether the washer has drained by monitoring the pressure sensor frequency, a problem with the water-level sensing system can also interfere with drain detection.
The source specifically recommends checking whether the:
- Air chamber is blocked
- Pressure sensor tube is blocked
If the washer physically drains but the control does not correctly recognize the falling water level, the pressure-sensing system should be included in the diagnosis.
Drain Pump & Wiring Checks
If there are no obvious restrictions, the drain pump system should be inspected.
Check:
- Drain pump electrical connector
- Connection at the Main PCB
- Wiring harness for loose or disconnected connections
- Pump impeller for damage
- Drain pump motor
The exact pump design and electrical specifications depend on the washer model.
26V DC BLDC Drain Pump
For models equipped with the referenced 26V DC brushless drain pump, the source specifies approximately:
1.5–4 Ω on each motor winding
The referenced three-pin connector uses white, blue, and sky-blue wires.
The pump uses pulse-width-modulated DC power. Because of this, the source notes that its operating voltage cannot be meaningfully checked with an ordinary multimeter simply set to DC voltage.
Using an appropriate high-frequency-capable meter and Test Mode, the reference describes a reading of approximately 11–12 VAC for this diagnostic procedure.
These specifications should be treated as model/pump-design dependent, not universal values for every LG washer.
120V AC Drain Pump
For models using the referenced 120V AC drain pump, the source gives an approximate motor resistance of:
10–20 Ω
The referenced wiring check is between the gray and blue wires at the white six-pin connector.
Again, confirm the pump type and service information for the exact washer model before using electrical specifications.
If the Drain Pump Does Not Run
A technician can activate the drain pump through the washer’s Test Mode and determine whether the pump is receiving the appropriate electrical supply.
The diagnostic sequence is essentially:
Pump does not receive proper voltage → check voltage at Main Board
If proper output exists at the Main Board but does not reach the pump:
Suspect the wiring harness or connection.
If the Main Board does not provide the required output after the circuit has been properly diagnosed:
The Main Board may need replacement.
This sequence is important because replacing a drain pump will not solve an OE condition caused by damaged wiring or a control-board output problem.
Does OE Always Mean a Bad Drain Pump?
No.
OE means the washer has detected a drain problem, not necessarily that the drain pump itself has failed.
Before replacing the pump, check the simpler and more common possibilities:
Filter → drain hose → drain installation → internal blockage → pressure-sensing system → pump → wiring → control
This prevents unnecessary replacement of a working drain pump.
If the OE Error Returns
If OE returns after cleaning the filter and checking the drain hose:
- Confirm that the drain hose is correctly installed.
- Check the pump housing for debris.
- Inspect the internal drain path for a blockage.
- Check the air chamber and pressure sensor tube.
- Inspect the drain pump impeller.
- Check the pump motor.
- Inspect the pump wiring and Main PCB connections.
- Diagnose Main Board output if necessary.
The exact electrical testing procedure should follow service information for the washer’s specific model.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended if:
- The filter and drain hose are clear but OE returns
- The washer will not drain
- The drain pump hums but does not move water
- The pump does not operate
- An internal blockage is suspected
- The pressure-sensing system requires inspection
- Wiring or electrical testing is required
- The drain pump or Main Control Board may need replacement
Electrical measurements and internal washer disassembly should be performed with appropriate safety precautions.
Key Point
OE means Outlet Error / Drain Pump Error and indicates that the LG washer is not draining as expected.
The Main Board determines this by monitoring the water level through the pressure sensor system.
Start with the most accessible causes: clean the drain pump filter, inspect the drain hose for restrictions, and verify that the hose is installed correctly.
If the drainage path is clear but OE continues to return, diagnosis may need to move to the drain pump, air chamber and pressure sensor tube, wiring harness, or Main Control Board.
OPn — Open Dispenser Drawer Error
The OPn error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an Open Dispenser Drawer Error.
This code appears when the washer detects that the dispenser drawer was not completely closed when the washer was operated, or when the dispenser drawer was opened while the washer was running.
The first step is to make sure the dispenser drawer is fully closed and inspect the drawer and its housing for damage.
What Does the OPn Error Code Mean?
The OPn code is associated specifically with the washer’s dispenser drawer.
According to the diagnostic reference, OPn can occur in either of these situations:
- The washer was operated without completely closing the dispenser drawer
- The dispenser drawer was opened during washer operation
This makes OPn different from detergent-dispensing errors such as Ed1–Ed5, which relate to ezDispense operation, pumps, or communication.
With OPn, the first area to investigate is the physical position and condition of the dispenser drawer.
Common Causes
Based on the referenced diagnostic information, the primary causes are:
- Dispenser drawer not completely closed
- Dispenser drawer opened while the washer is operating
- Damage to the dispenser drawer
- Damage to the dispenser housing assembly
A drawer that appears closed but cannot seat correctly because of physical damage should therefore be inspected carefully.
What You Can Check
1. Make sure the dispenser drawer is completely closed.
Push the drawer fully into its housing and make sure it reaches its normal closed position.
If the drawer was partially open when the washer was started, close it completely and try operating the washer again.
2. Do not open the drawer during operation.
The source specifically identifies opening the dispenser drawer while the washer is operating as a condition that can trigger OPn.
If the code appeared after the drawer was opened during a cycle, close the drawer completely.
3. Inspect the dispenser drawer.
Remove and visually inspect the drawer if the model’s normal cleaning procedure allows it.
Look for:
- Cracks
- Broken plastic
- Warped sections
- Damaged guides
- Anything preventing the drawer from closing completely
4. Inspect the dispenser housing.
The diagnostic reference specifically recommends checking for damage to the dispenser drawer or housing assembly.
Make sure there is no obvious physical damage preventing the drawer from seating correctly.
Check for Detergent or Softener Buildup
Although the OPn source specifically identifies drawer position and physical damage, detergent or fabric-softener residue can sometimes interfere with normal dispenser operation.
If the drawer does not slide smoothly or cannot close completely, inspect it for accumulated detergent or softener and clean it according to the washer’s normal maintenance instructions.
After cleaning, reinstall the drawer correctly and make sure it closes fully.
Does OPn Mean the Dispenser Is Defective?
Not necessarily.
OPn can occur simply because the dispenser drawer was:
not completely closed or opened while the washer was operating.
Therefore, do not assume that a component needs replacement as soon as OPn appears.
Start by checking the drawer position.
If the drawer is correctly closed but the code continues to return, inspect the drawer and dispenser housing assembly for physical damage.
OPn vs. Ed1–Ed5
Several LG washer codes involve the dispenser system, but they should not be treated as the same problem.
OPn — Open Dispenser Drawer Error
The dispenser drawer is not completely closed or was opened during washer operation.
Ed1 — ezDispense Detergent Error
The expected amount of detergent did not decrease or dispense.
Ed2 — ezDispense Detergent Pump Error
Associated with an open circuit in the detergent pump.
Ed3 — ezDispense Softener Error
The expected amount of softener did not decrease or dispense.
Ed4 — ezDispense Softener Pump Error
Associated with an open circuit in the softener pump.
Ed5 — ezDispense Communication Error
Associated with communication involving the dispenser Sub PCB.
This distinction can prevent unnecessary diagnosis of the ezDispense pumps or electronics when the actual OPn condition is related to the drawer being open or not fully closed.
If the OPn Error Returns
If OPn returns after closing the dispenser drawer:
- Open and close the drawer again, making sure it seats completely.
- Check for anything interfering with drawer movement.
- Inspect the drawer for cracks, warping, or other damage.
- Inspect the dispenser housing assembly for damage.
- Clean buildup that may prevent normal drawer movement.
- If the drawer appears correctly installed and undamaged but OPn continues, further model-specific diagnosis may be necessary.
Because the referenced OPn page does not provide electrical specifications or identify a particular sensor or switch, those components should not be assumed to be the cause without model-specific service information.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis may be appropriate if:
- OPn repeatedly returns with the drawer completely closed
- The drawer cannot remain properly seated
- The dispenser drawer is damaged
- The dispenser housing assembly is damaged
- The drawer appears normal but the washer continues to detect an open condition
A technician can inspect the dispenser system and use service information for the exact LG washer model to determine why the washer continues to detect the condition.
Key Point
OPn means Open Dispenser Drawer Error.
It occurs when the LG washer is operated without completely closing the dispenser drawer, or when the drawer is opened while the washer is operating.
Start by closing the drawer completely. If OPn continues to return, inspect the dispenser drawer and housing assembly for damage or anything preventing the drawer from seating correctly.
PE — Pressure Sensor Error
The PE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Pressure Sensor Error.
The washer’s Main Control Board has detected an abnormal condition in the water-level pressure sensor circuit. According to the diagnostic reference, the pressure sensor may be electrically open or shorted, or the pressure sensor tube may have a small hole that allows air pressure to escape.
The problem can involve the pressure sensor itself, its wiring harness and connections, or the air-pressure tube used to measure the water level.
What Does the PE Error Code Mean?
An LG front-load washer uses a pressure sensor to determine the approximate water level inside the tub.
As the water level changes, air pressure in the connected pressure tube changes. The pressure sensor converts this information into a signal that the Main Board can monitor.
If the Main Board detects an electrical problem with the pressure sensor circuit or cannot receive a reliable pressure signal, the washer can display the PE error code.
Common Causes
Based on the referenced diagnostic procedure, the main causes include:
- Pressure sensor circuit open
- Pressure sensor circuit shorted
- Loose connection at the pressure sensor
- Loose connection at the Main Board
- Damaged pressure sensor wiring harness
- Failed pressure sensor
- Blocked pressure sensor hose
- Small pinhole in the pressure sensor tube
- Air escaping from the pressure tube and causing erratic readings
Because several parts of the sensing system can produce PE, the pressure sensor should not automatically be replaced without checking the connections, harness, and tubing first.
What You Can Check
1. Inspect the pressure sensor connections.
Check the electrical connection at:
- The pressure sensor
- The Main Board
A loose or poorly seated connector can interrupt the sensor circuit and cause the Main Board to detect an abnormal condition.
2. Inspect the pressure sensor tube.
Check the tube carefully for:
- Blockages
- Kinks
- Damage
- Small pinholes
- Loose connections
Even a small hole can allow air to escape and prevent the pressure sensor from accurately detecting the water level.
3. Check the wiring harness.
If the electrical readings indicate an open circuit, the wiring between the Main Board and pressure sensor needs to be distinguished from a failed sensor.
The source provides a specific procedure for doing this.
Pressure Sensor Resistance Test
With the washer unplugged, the referenced diagnostic procedure specifies checking resistance from the Main Board.
Measure between:
Pin 1 and Pin 3
The expected reading is:
20–25 Ω
If the resistance is within this range, continue with the diagnostic procedure.
If the circuit reads open, disconnect the harness from the pressure sensor and check the sensor resistance again.
The result helps separate two possibilities:
Sensor now reads correctly → suspect the wiring harness
Sensor still reads open → suspect the pressure sensor
According to the source, if the pressure sensor itself continues to read open, the sensor should be replaced.
Pressure Sensor Voltage Test
The reference also provides a powered voltage test.
With the pressure sensor connected and the washer powered on, measure:
Pin 2 to Pin 3: 2.5–3 VDC
Pin 2 to Pin 1: 2.5–3 VDC
These measurements are part of the diagnostic procedure for evaluating the pressure sensor circuit.
Because this test requires working around an energized appliance, it should be performed only by someone qualified to safely diagnose live electrical circuits.
Check the Pressure Sensor Hose
The pressure tube is just as important as the electrical sensor.
The source specifically instructs technicians to inspect the pressure sensor hose for:
- A blockage
- A small pinhole
A pinhole allows air to escape, which can produce an erratic pressure reading or no usable pressure reading at all.
This means PE can occur even when the pressure sensor electronics themselves are functioning.
What If the Pressure Sensor Tube Has a Hole?
According to the referenced repair information, if the pressure sensor tube has a small hole, the solution is to:
Replace the pressure sensor assembly.
The reason is important for parts ordering: the source states that the pressure tube is only available with the pressure sensor assembly.
Therefore, repairing or replacing only the tube may not be the specified service solution for these models.
Does PE Always Mean a Bad Pressure Sensor?
No.
PE identifies a problem with the pressure-sensing system, but several different conditions can produce it.
A useful diagnostic sequence is:
Connections → wiring harness → pressure sensor → pressure tube
For example, replacing the pressure sensor would not solve the problem if the actual cause is a damaged harness or poor connection at the Main Board.
Likewise, electrical measurements can appear misleading if the pressure tube cannot maintain air pressure because of a small hole.
Pressure Sensor Wiring Can Vary by Model
LG uses different wire-color configurations for pressure sensors on its front-load washers.
The referenced diagnostic page specifically notes that there are currently two different color codes used for these pressure-sensor circuits.
Therefore, wire colors should not be assumed to be universal across all LG washer models.
Use the wiring diagram or service information for the exact model when identifying terminals and conductors.
PE vs. IE and FE
The pressure sensor system can be involved in several LG washer codes, but the codes describe different conditions.
PE — Pressure Sensor Error
The Main Board detects an abnormal electrical condition involving the pressure sensor, or the pressure-sensing system cannot provide a reliable signal.
IE — Inlet Error
The washer does not detect the expected increase in water level while filling. Water supply, inlet valves, pressure sensing, or installation problems can contribute.
FE — Overfill Error
The washer detects an excessively high water-level condition. Inlet valves, the pressure-sensing system, or control circuitry may be involved.
Therefore, PE is more specifically associated with the pressure sensor circuit/system itself, while IE and FE describe abnormal water-fill conditions that may involve that system.
If the PE Error Returns
If PE continues to return:
- Check the pressure sensor connector.
- Check the Main Board connector.
- Inspect the wiring harness.
- Measure the pressure sensor resistance.
- Check the sensor supply/signal voltages where appropriate.
- Inspect the pressure tube for blockage.
- Inspect the tube carefully for a small pinhole or other air leak.
- Replace the pressure sensor assembly if testing confirms a sensor failure or the pressure tube is damaged.
Electrical testing should follow the service information for the exact washer model.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended if:
- PE repeatedly returns
- The washer fills to an incorrect water level
- The pressure sensor tube requires internal inspection
- Harness continuity needs to be tested
- Resistance or live-voltage measurements are required
- The pressure sensor assembly may need replacement
The pressure sensor is part of the washer’s water-level control system, so an unresolved PE condition should not be ignored.
Key Point
PE means Pressure Sensor Error.
The Main Board has detected that the pressure sensor circuit is open or shorted, or the pressure-sensing system may be giving incorrect readings because of a problem such as a small hole or blockage in the pressure sensor tube.
Start with the sensor and Main Board connections, wiring harness, and pressure tube before replacing components.
For the diagnostic procedure documented by the source, Pin 1 to Pin 3 should measure 20–25 Ω, while the connected powered sensor should measure approximately 2.5–3 VDC from Pin 2 to Pin 3 and from Pin 2 to Pin 1. These measurements should be treated as source/model-specific service values rather than universal specifications for every LG washer.
PF — Power Failure (Not an Error)
The PF code on an LG front-load washer means Power Failure.
PF is not an error code. It is an informational message indicating that electrical power to the washer was interrupted while the appliance was powered on.
If the display is currently showing PF, power has already been restored—the washer is simply reporting that an interruption occurred.
What Does the PF Code Mean?
The PF message indicates that the washer experienced an interruption of its 120 VAC power supply.
According to the diagnostic reference, PF is displayed only when power was interrupted while the washer was powered on.
This distinction is important because PF does not automatically indicate a failed component inside the washer.
Instead, it records a power-loss event for the user’s information.
Is PF an Error Code?
No.
The LG diagnostic reference specifically states that PF:
is not an error and is displayed for customer information.
If PF appeared after a known power outage or after the washer was accidentally unplugged, the message may be completely normal.
The washer does not necessarily require repair.
Common Causes
The referenced diagnostic information lists the following possible causes:
- Washer unplugged while it was being used
- Household power failure
- Electrical wiring problem
The underlying condition is the same in each case:
120 VAC power to the washer was interrupted while the appliance was powered on.
What You Can Check
1. Consider whether there was a recent power outage.
If lights or other appliances lost power at approximately the same time, PF may simply be reporting the household power interruption.
2. Check the washer’s power connection.
Make sure the washer’s plug is securely inserted into the electrical receptacle.
A loose connection can potentially interrupt power during operation.
3. Check the household electrical supply.
The source specifically instructs technicians to check for proper voltage at the customer’s power source.
If PF repeatedly appears without a known outage, the electrical supply should be investigated.
4. Look for signs of an intermittent electrical problem.
Repeated unexplained power interruptions may indicate a problem involving the outlet, electrical connection, or household wiring rather than the washer itself.
What Happens After a Power Failure?
The LG diagnostic reference notes an important behavior after a power interruption:
When power is restored and the Power button is pressed, the washer returns to the previous cycle.
Therefore, seeing PF after an outage does not necessarily mean that the wash cycle or washer electronics have failed.
It is primarily informing the user that the previous operation was interrupted by loss of power.
Does PF Mean the Main Control Board Is Bad?
Not by itself.
The referenced PF information does not identify the Main Control Board as the primary cause of this message.
Instead, the listed possibilities are:
Unit unplugged during usage → Power failure → Bad wiring
Therefore, replacing the Main Board simply because PF appeared would not be justified without additional diagnostic evidence.
If PF repeatedly occurs while household power remains stable, further electrical diagnosis is appropriate.
PF After a Known Power Outage
If PF appeared immediately after a confirmed household power outage, the message is generally consistent with normal washer behavior.
In this situation:
- Confirm that household power has been restored.
- Make sure the washer is securely plugged in.
- Press the Power button.
- Check whether the washer returns to its previous cycle.
- Monitor the washer for additional power interruptions.
If the appliance continues operating normally, PF alone does not indicate that a repair is required.
PF Keeps Coming Back
A PF message becomes more significant when it repeatedly appears without any known household power outage.
In that situation, check for an intermittent power-supply problem.
Possible areas requiring investigation include:
- Washer power connection
- Electrical receptacle
- Household electrical supply
- Wiring associated with the washer’s power source
The goal is to determine why the washer’s 120 VAC supply is being interrupted.
PF vs. Other LG Washer Error Codes
PF differs from many other codes because it does not identify a failure in a washer operating system such as:
- Drain system
- Water inlet system
- Motor
- Door lock
- Pressure sensor
- Heating system
Instead, PF reports an interruption of incoming electrical power.
That is why a single PF message following a known outage should not be treated like a component-failure code.
If the PF Message Returns
If PF continues to appear:
- Confirm whether household power is actually being interrupted.
- Make sure the washer is securely plugged in.
- Check the condition of the power source.
- Determine whether the outlet is providing stable, proper voltage.
- Investigate wiring if the power supply is intermittent.
- Only move to washer-specific electrical diagnosis if the external power supply has been verified.
The source’s primary diagnostic direction is to check for proper voltage at the customer’s source.
When to Call a Professional Technician
A single PF message after a known power outage generally does not require appliance repair.
Professional diagnosis may be appropriate if:
- PF repeatedly appears without known outages
- The washer unexpectedly loses power during cycles
- The outlet or power connection appears intermittent
- The washer cannot reliably resume operation
- A wiring problem is suspected
If the problem appears to involve the home’s electrical circuit rather than the appliance, evaluation by a qualified electrician may be more appropriate.
Key Point
PF means Power Failure — and it is not an error code.
It indicates that the washer’s 120 VAC power supply was interrupted while the appliance was powered on. The cause may simply be a household power outage or the washer being unplugged, although wiring problems can also cause repeated interruptions.
If PF appears after a known outage, restore power and press the Power button; according to the diagnostic reference, the washer will return to the previous cycle.
If PF repeatedly appears without a known outage, check for proper and stable voltage at the washer’s power sourcebefore suspecting an internal washer failure.
PS — Supplied Voltage Is Not Correct
Sud — Suds Error
The Sud code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Suds Error.
The washer has detected excessive suds inside the tub, usually because too much detergent was used or the detergent produced more foam than the washer can properly manage.
When this happens, the washer may automatically take additional steps to reduce the suds before continuing normal operation.
What Does the Sud Code Mean?
LG front-load washers are designed to operate with a relatively low level of suds.
When excessive foam develops, it can interfere with normal washing and rinsing performance.
The washer detects this condition and displays Sud.
In most cases, Sud does not mean that an internal washer component has failed. It is primarily an indication that the wash solution contains too much foam.
Common Causes
The most common reasons for an LG washer Sud code include:
- Too much detergent
- Incorrect detergent type
- Detergent that produces excessive foam
- Using more detergent than necessary for the load
- Detergent residue remaining from previous cycles
The amount of detergent needed can vary depending on the detergent concentration, load size, and washing conditions.
What Does the Washer Do When Sud Is Detected?
The washer may attempt to correct excessive suds automatically.
According to the diagnostic information, the machine can add water and perform additional operation to help reduce the concentration of detergent and remove excess foam.
This means the cycle may take longer than expected while the washer manages the suds condition.
If the washer is still operating, allowing it to complete this process may be preferable to immediately interrupting the cycle.
What You Can Check
1. Check how much detergent you are using.
Using more detergent does not necessarily improve cleaning.
In a high-efficiency front-load washer, excessive detergent can create too much foam and trigger Sud.
Reduce the detergent amount on future loads if excessive suds are visible or Sud repeatedly appears.
2. Make sure the detergent is appropriate for the washer.
Use detergent intended for high-efficiency (HE) washing machines when required by the washer manufacturer.
Non-HE detergent can create significantly more suds than a front-load washer is designed to handle.
3. Consider detergent concentration.
Many modern detergents are highly concentrated.
If the detergent is labeled as concentrated, the correct dose may be considerably smaller than expected.
Follow the detergent manufacturer’s dosing instructions while also considering the washer manufacturer’s recommendations.
4. Look for excessive foam.
If large amounts of foam are visible inside the drum, excessive detergent is a likely explanation for the Sud indication.
What to Do If Sud Appears During a Cycle
If Sud appears while the washer is operating:
- Allow the washer time to perform its automatic suds-reduction process.
- Avoid adding additional detergent.
- Let the washer complete its rinsing/draining process if possible.
- If detergent residue remains, an additional rinse may help remove it.
- Reduce the detergent amount during the next wash.
The objective is to remove the excess detergent rather than reset the code without correcting the condition.
Does Sud Mean the Washer Is Broken?
Usually, no.
Sud is commonly caused by the wash conditions rather than a failed component.
If the washer displays Sud once after an unusually large detergent dose, the machine may simply be responding correctly to excessive foam.
Repeated Sud indications despite correct detergent usage, however, may justify further investigation.
Why Too Much Detergent Can Cause Problems
Excessive detergent can cause more than a temporary Sud indication.
Too much foam can interfere with the washer’s ability to move, drain, and rinse water effectively.
Repeated overdosing can also leave detergent residue inside the washer and on clothing.
Using the correct detergent quantity can therefore improve both washer operation and rinse performance.
Sud vs. OE
Sud and OE can sometimes appear in situations involving poor draining, but they identify different conditions.
Sud — Suds Error
The washer has detected excessive foam.
OE — Outlet Error / Drain Pump Error
The washer has determined that the expected amount of water has not drained from the tub.
Excessive suds can complicate washing and draining, but an OE code should still be diagnosed as a drain-system problem rather than assuming detergent is always responsible.
If Sud Keeps Returning
If Sud repeatedly appears:
- Verify that the correct detergent is being used.
- Reduce the detergent quantity.
- Check whether the detergent is highly concentrated.
- Run additional rinsing if detergent residue has accumulated.
- Observe whether excessive foam continues to form.
- If Sud persists despite correct detergent usage and little or no visible foam, further diagnosis may be necessary.
A recurring Sud indication under normal detergent conditions should not automatically be blamed on detergent without checking how the washer is actually operating.
Should You Replace Any Parts for a Sud Code?
Not based on Sud alone.
The Sud code does not by itself identify a failed pump, sensor, Main PCB, or other component.
Start by correcting the detergent conditions.
Component diagnosis becomes appropriate only if the Sud indication repeatedly occurs despite proper detergent use or if the washer also shows other symptoms or error codes.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis may be appropriate if:
- Sud repeatedly appears with the correct detergent amount
- Very little or no foam is present but Sud continues to appear
- The washer cannot complete the cycle
- The washer has difficulty draining or rinsing
- Another error code appears together with the problem
- Reducing detergent does not correct the condition
In those cases, the washer may need additional diagnosis rather than further detergent adjustments.
Key Point
Sud means Suds Error and indicates that the LG washer has detected excessive suds.
The most likely cause is too much detergent or detergent that produces excessive foam.
The washer may respond automatically by adding water and performing additional operation to reduce the suds, so a longer cycle during this condition can be normal.
If Sud repeatedly returns, first reduce the detergent amount and verify that the correct detergent is being usedbefore considering a component failure.
tcL — Tub Clean Cycle (Not an Error)
The tcL code on an LG front-load washer means Tub Clean Cycle.
tcL is not an error code.
It is an indicator that the washer’s Tub Clean cycle is either running or needs to be run. LG washers use this cycle to help remove detergent residue and buildup that can accumulate inside the machine over time.
What Does the tcL Code Mean?
The tcL indicator is related to routine washer maintenance rather than a component failure.
According to the diagnostic reference:
tcL indicates that the Tub Clean cycle is running or needs to run.
If tcL appears, it does not automatically indicate a problem with the washer’s:
- Drain pump
- Water inlet valves
- Motor
- Door lock
- Pressure sensor
- Main Control Board
Instead, the washer is indicating that the Tub Clean function should be used or is currently active.
Is tcL an Error Code?
No.
The referenced LG information specifically identifies tcL as:
Tub Clean Cycle (Not an Error).
Therefore, no component should be replaced simply because tcL appears on the display.
In most cases, the appropriate response is routine washer cleaning rather than repair.
Why Does the Washer Need a Tub Clean Cycle?
The Tub Clean cycle is specially designed to help remove detergent residue buildup from the washer.
Over time, detergent residue and other buildup inside a front-load washer can contribute to:
- Musty odors
- Mildew-like smells
- Residue inside the washer
Running the Tub Clean cycle regularly helps reduce this buildup and maintain the washer.
How Often Should You Run Tub Clean?
The referenced diagnostic information recommends running the Tub Clean cycle at least once a month.
Regular cleaning can help prevent the buildup that contributes to mold and unpleasant odors.
Depending on usage and the exact washer model, the appliance may also provide a Tub Clean reminder when cleaning is due.
What You Should Do When tcL Appears
If tcL indicates that Tub Clean is needed:
- Remove all clothing and other items from the washer.
- Make sure the drum is empty.
- Select or activate the Tub Clean cycle according to the controls on your model.
- Start the cycle.
- Allow the washer to complete the cleaning program.
The exact method used to select Tub Clean can vary between LG washer models.
Do Not Put Clothes in the Washer
The source specifically warns:
Do not use the Tub Clean cycle with clothes inside the washer.
Tub Clean is a maintenance cycle designed for cleaning the washer itself.
Remove laundry from the drum before starting it.
Do Not Add Regular Detergent or Fabric Softener
The referenced procedure also says:
Do not add detergent or fabric softener when running this cycle.
Adding ordinary laundry detergent could create unnecessary suds or additional residue—the opposite of what the cleaning cycle is intended to accomplish.
Follow the owner’s manual for the exact model regarding any approved washer-cleaning product or model-specific Tub Clean procedure.
How to Start the Tub Clean Cycle
The source provides the following procedure for the configuration it describes:
- Press the Power button.
- Press and hold the Extra Rinse button until
tcLappears. - Press Start.
However, the controls and button combinations can differ between LG washer models.
If your washer has a dedicated Tub Clean control or uses a different button combination, follow the instructions in the owner’s manual for that specific model.
Why tcL May Look Different on Some Displays
On some LG washer models, the display may not show all three characters simultaneously.
The diagnostic reference notes that on certain models:
TC is displayed first, followed by L.
This can make the indicator look unusual, but it still refers to the Tub Clean function rather than a separate error.
Does tcL Mean the Washer Is Dirty?
Not necessarily in the sense that something has malfunctioned.
The indicator is best understood as a maintenance reminder or Tub Clean status.
Front-load washers can gradually accumulate detergent residue through normal use. LG provides the Tub Clean cycle specifically to help manage this buildup.
Seeing tcL therefore does not mean that a component has failed.
Does tcL Require Professional Repair?
Normally, no.
Because tcL is not an error code, professional repair is generally unnecessary when the washer is otherwise operating normally.
Run the recommended Tub Clean cycle and continue normal maintenance.
Professional diagnosis may become appropriate if the washer has a separate problem, such as:
- Tub Clean cycle will not start
- Washer will not fill or drain
- Washer stops during the cleaning cycle
- Another actual error code appears
- Persistent odors remain despite proper cleaning and maintenance
In those situations, diagnose the additional symptom rather than treating tcL itself as a failure.
tcL vs. Actual LG Washer Error Codes
It is important to distinguish maintenance/status indicators from actual fault codes.
For example:
tcL — Tub Clean Cycle
Maintenance/status indicator. Not an error.
OE — Outlet Error / Drain Pump Error
Indicates that the washer is not draining as expected.
PE — Pressure Sensor Error
Indicates a problem involving the water-level pressure-sensing system.
PS — Supplied Voltage Is Not Correct
Indicates an abnormal electrical supply voltage condition.
This distinction helps prevent unnecessary service calls or parts replacement when the washer is simply requesting routine maintenance.
If tcL Appears Again
Seeing tcL again later does not necessarily mean that the previous Tub Clean cycle failed.
The washer may display the indicator again when another cleaning cycle is due.
For ongoing maintenance:
- Run Tub Clean regularly
- The source recommends at least once per month
- Keep the drum empty during Tub Clean
- Do not add regular detergent
- Do not add fabric softener
- Follow the model-specific owner’s manual for cleaning instructions
Regular maintenance can help minimize detergent residue, mold buildup, and unpleasant odors.
Key Point
tcL means Tub Clean Cycle — it is not an error code.
It indicates that the Tub Clean cycle is running or needs to be run. The cycle is designed to remove detergent residue that can contribute to mildew or musty odors.
LG’s referenced recommendation is to run Tub Clean at least once a month. Do not put clothes in the washer, and do not add regular detergent or fabric softener during the cycle.
tE — Thermistor Error
The tE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Thermistor Error.
The washer has detected that the thermistor is defective or its reading is outside the expected range.
The problem may involve the thermistor itself, a loose electrical connection, or a damaged wiring harness between the thermistor and Main Control Board.
What Does the tE Error Code Mean?
The thermistor is a temperature-sensing component used by the washer’s control system to monitor temperature.
Its electrical characteristics change with temperature, allowing the Main Board to determine whether the temperature is within the expected range.
When the Main Board receives a thermistor signal that indicates an abnormal, open, or shorted circuit, the washer can display tE.
Common Causes
Based on the referenced diagnostic information, the main causes include:
- Failed thermistor
- Thermistor reading outside its expected range
- Loose thermistor connection
- Loose connection at the Main Board
- Damaged wiring harness
- Open thermistor circuit
- Shorted thermistor circuit
Because wiring and connection problems can produce the same error, tE does not automatically mean the thermistor itself needs replacement.
Thermistor Location Can Vary by Model
LG does not use exactly the same thermistor configuration on every front-load washer.
According to the source, on some models the thermistor is integrated into the heater assembly, while other models use a stand-alone thermistor.
Therefore, before ordering parts or disassembling the washer, identify the exact model and determine which thermistor configuration it uses.
What You Can Check
1. Inspect the thermistor connection.
Check the connector at the thermistor for:
- Loose connection
- Partially disconnected connector
- Damaged terminals
- Visible wiring damage
A poor connection can make a functioning thermistor appear electrically open or produce an abnormal reading.
2. Inspect the wiring harness.
Visually inspect the harness between the thermistor and Main Board.
Look for damaged, broken, pinched, or disconnected wiring.
3. Check the thermistor electrically.
The source recommends checking the thermistor’s resistance or voltage value from the Main Board.
When checking resistance, the harness should be disconnected from the board.
How to Separate a Bad Thermistor From a Wiring Problem
If the thermistor appears open when measured from the Main Board, do not immediately replace it.
The referenced diagnostic procedure recommends measuring again directly at the thermistor.
This provides an important diagnostic distinction:
Correct reading directly at thermistor → wiring harness may be faulty
Still open or out of range directly at thermistor → thermistor is faulty
If the thermistor itself remains open or outside its expected range when measured directly, the source recommends replacing the thermistor.
tE Open-Circuit Voltage
The source provides a specific voltage threshold for an open thermistor circuit:
Greater than 4.5 VDC → tE is triggered because the Main Board interprets the thermistor circuit as open.
Therefore, a high thermistor-circuit voltage does not necessarily mean the washer is actually experiencing an extreme temperature.
It can indicate that the temperature-sensing circuit is electrically open.
tE Short-Circuit Voltage
The opposite condition can also trigger tE:
Less than 0.5 VDC → tE is triggered because the Main Board interprets the thermistor circuit as shorted.
This gives the diagnostic system two important failure boundaries:
Above 4.5 VDC → Open circuit
Below 0.5 VDC → Shorted circuit
A technician can use these readings together with resistance measurements and wiring inspection to determine where the fault is located.
Does tE Always Mean a Bad Thermistor?
No.
This is one of the most important points when diagnosing tE.
The source specifically instructs technicians to inspect connections and the wiring harness in addition to testing the thermistor.
For example:
Thermistor reads open from Main Board → measure directly at thermistor
If the thermistor reads correctly at the component but incorrectly from the Main Board, the thermistor itself may be good and the harness may be faulty.
Replacing the thermistor in that situation would not correct the underlying wiring problem.
Does tE Mean the Heating Element Is Bad?
Not necessarily.
tE specifically identifies a thermistor/temperature-sensing problem, not automatically a failed heating element.
However, on some LG washer models the thermistor is incorporated into the heater assembly.
This means the physical component configuration and replacement procedure can differ significantly between models.
Always identify the washer model before determining which part needs to be serviced.
Why Accurate Temperature Sensing Matters
The Main Board relies on thermistor information to monitor temperature during washer operation.
If the thermistor circuit becomes open, shorted, or provides an out-of-range reading, the control can no longer reliably determine temperature.
The washer can therefore stop operation and display tE rather than continue using unreliable temperature information.
tE vs. dHE
Both codes can involve systems related to temperature, but they describe different faults.
tE — Thermistor Error
The washer detects a thermistor that is bad, electrically open/shorted, or outside the expected range.
dHE — Dry Heater Error
Indicates that the drying system is not producing or managing heat as expected on applicable washer/dryer combo models.
A thermistor can be involved in diagnosing a drying problem, but tE should specifically direct attention to the temperature-sensing circuit.
If the tE Error Returns
If tE continues to return:
- Confirm the exact washer model.
- Inspect the thermistor connector.
- Inspect the wiring harness for damage.
- Check resistance from the Main Board with the harness disconnected as specified.
- If the circuit reads open, test directly at the thermistor.
- If the thermistor reads correctly directly, investigate the wiring harness.
- If the thermistor remains open or out of range, replace the thermistor.
- When performing powered diagnosis, evaluate the thermistor circuit voltage where appropriate.
The source’s voltage thresholds are:
> 4.5 VDC = open-circuit condition
< 0.5 VDC = short-circuit condition.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended if:
- tE repeatedly returns
- Thermistor resistance needs to be measured
- Wiring continuity needs to be checked
- Live-voltage testing is required
- The thermistor is integrated into the heater assembly
- The thermistor or associated assembly requires replacement
Powered electrical measurements should only be performed by someone qualified to safely diagnose energized appliance circuits.
Key Point
tE means Thermistor Error.
The washer has detected that the thermistor is defective or its reading is outside the expected range. The cause can be the thermistor itself, a loose connection, or a damaged wiring harness.
A particularly useful diagnostic distinction from the source is:
Above 4.5 VDC → Main Board detects an open thermistor circuit
Below 0.5 VDC → Main Board detects a shorted thermistor circuit
If the thermistor reads incorrectly from the Main Board but correctly when measured directly at the sensor, investigate the wiring harness before replacing the thermistor.
tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
The tE1 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Duct Inlet Temperature Error.
The washer has detected an abnormal signal from the Duct Inlet Thermistor, which monitors temperature in the duct inlet area of the drying system.
According to the diagnostic reference, tE1 can be triggered when the Duct Inlet Thermistor is:
- Electrically open
- Electrically shorted
- Detecting a temperature below −30°C (−22°F)
- Detecting a temperature above 120°C (248°F)
The recommended diagnostic action is to check the Duct Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare the reading with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
What Does the tE1 Error Code Mean?
tE1 identifies an abnormal condition involving the temperature measurement at the duct inlet.
A thermistor changes its electrical resistance according to temperature. The washer’s electronic control uses this changing resistance to monitor temperature during operation.
If the thermistor circuit becomes open or shorted—or its signal corresponds to a temperature outside the expected diagnostic range—the washer can display tE1.
This makes tE1 primarily a temperature-sensor circuit error, rather than automatically indicating a heater, compressor, or fan failure.
Temperature Limits for tE1
The source provides two specific temperature limits associated with this code:
Below −30°C (−22°F)
or
Above 120°C (248°F).
A detected value outside this range can trigger tE1.
However, an extreme calculated temperature does not necessarily mean the duct has physically reached that temperature. An open or shorted thermistor circuit can also produce an abnormal signal that the control interprets as an out-of-range temperature.
Common Causes
Based directly on the diagnostic information, the primary conditions associated with tE1 are:
- Open Duct Inlet Thermistor
- Shorted Duct Inlet Thermistor
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature below −30°C
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature above 120°C
During diagnosis, the thermistor circuit and its resistance should therefore be evaluated before assuming another heat-pump component has failed.
What You Can Check
1. Confirm the exact washer model.
This is especially important for tE1 because the example provided by the source is from the LG WM6998.
Different LG washer and washer/dryer combo models may use different drying systems and thermistor configurations.
2. Locate the Duct Inlet Thermistor.
Use the service information for the exact model to identify the correct thermistor.
Do not assume that every temperature sensor in the drying system is interchangeable.
3. Inspect the thermistor and its circuit.
Before replacing the thermistor, inspect its connection and associated wiring for obvious damage or an interrupted electrical path.
4. Measure thermistor resistance.
The source’s specified diagnostic action is:
Check Duct Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare it to the chart.
The expected resistance depends on the thermistor temperature, so a resistance value should not be evaluated without considering the temperature at which it was measured.
Why Resistance Changes With Temperature
A thermistor is designed to change resistance as its temperature changes.
This allows the control electronics to infer temperature from the electrical signal.
For tE1 diagnosis, simply checking whether the thermistor has continuity may not provide enough information.
The measured resistance should be compared with the temperature/resistance chart specified for the model.
If the resistance does not correspond appropriately to the actual temperature, the thermistor may be providing an incorrect temperature signal.
Open vs. Shorted Thermistor
The source specifically identifies both an open and shorted Duct Inlet Thermistor as causes of tE1.
An open circuit means the expected electrical path through the thermistor circuit has been interrupted.
A short circuit means the circuit has abnormally low resistance or an unintended electrical path.
Either condition prevents the washer from receiving a valid duct inlet temperature signal.
tE1 on the LG WM6998
The example shown in the diagnostic reference comes from the LG WM6998 washer/dryer combo.
The source states that this heat-pump system has five thermistors associated with it.
This is important because tE1 should not be treated as a generic temperature error involving any one of those sensors.
It specifically points to the Duct Inlet Thermistor.
The five-thermistor configuration shown for the WM6998 should also not be assumed to apply to every LG front-load washer or washer/dryer combo.
Does tE1 Mean the Thermistor Must Be Replaced?
Not automatically.
The source instructs technicians to check the Duct Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare it with the chart rather than simply replacing the sensor whenever tE1 appears.
A proper diagnosis should establish whether the thermistor is actually producing an incorrect electrical response.
The wiring and connections associated with the sensor should also be considered when diagnosing an apparent open or shorted circuit.
Does tE1 Mean the Heat Pump Is Bad?
Not by itself.
Although the source’s WM6998 example places this thermistor within a heat-pump drying system, tE1 specifically identifies a Duct Inlet Temperature Error.
It does not by itself prove that the:
- Compressor has failed
- Drying blower fan has failed
- Entire heat-pump system has failed
- Main Control Board needs replacement
Those components should not be replaced solely because tE1 is present.
tE vs. tE1
These codes are related to temperature sensing but should not be treated as identical.
tE — Thermistor Error
A broader thermistor-related error associated with the washer’s temperature-sensing circuit.
tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
Specifically identifies an abnormal condition involving the Duct Inlet Thermistor on applicable models.
Therefore, the exact suffix matters when identifying which temperature-sensing circuit requires diagnosis.
If the tE1 Error Returns
If tE1 continues to appear:
- Confirm the complete washer model number.
- Identify the Duct Inlet Thermistor using model-specific service information.
- Inspect the thermistor connection and wiring.
- Check the thermistor for an open or shorted condition.
- Measure its resistance.
- Compare the resistance with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
- Determine whether the thermistor reading corresponds reasonably to its actual temperature.
- Replace or repair components only after the faulty part of the circuit has been identified.
For models other than the WM6998, use the specifications and wiring information for that specific model rather than assuming the example configuration is identical.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is appropriate if:
- tE1 repeatedly returns
- Thermistor resistance needs to be measured
- The drying system requires disassembly
- Sensor wiring needs to be inspected
- The correct thermistor cannot be identified
- The thermistor reading must be compared with model-specific service data
Heat-pump washer/dryer combos can contain several temperature sensors, making correct identification particularly important.
Key Point
tE1 means Duct Inlet Temperature Error.
It is triggered when the Duct Inlet Thermistor is open or shorted, or when the detected temperature falls below −30°C (−22°F) or rises above 120°C (248°F).
The primary diagnostic step is to measure the Duct Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare it with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
The example provided by the source is from the LG WM6998, whose heat-pump system uses five thermistors, so its exact sensor configuration should not be generalized to every LG front-load washer.
tE2 — Compressor Inlet Temperature Error
The tE2 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Compressor Inlet Temperature Error.
The washer has detected an abnormal signal from the Compressor Inlet Thermistor, a temperature sensor associated with the heat-pump system on applicable washer/dryer combo models.
According to the diagnostic reference, tE2 can be triggered when the Compressor Inlet Thermistor is:
- Electrically open
- Electrically shorted
- Detecting a temperature below −20°C (−4°F)
- Detecting a temperature above 200°C (392°F)
The specified diagnostic action is to check the Compressor Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare the measurement with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
What Does the tE2 Error Code Mean?
tE2 specifically identifies an abnormal temperature signal from the Compressor Inlet Thermistor.
The thermistor changes its electrical resistance according to temperature. The washer’s control system uses this signal to monitor conditions in the heat-pump system.
If the thermistor circuit is open or shorted, or if its signal corresponds to a temperature outside the specified diagnostic range, the control can display tE2.
This means tE2 is primarily a temperature-sensing circuit error. It does not automatically mean that the compressor itself has failed.
Temperature Limits for tE2
The diagnostic reference gives two specific temperature limits:
Below −20°C (−4°F)
or
Above 200°C (392°F).
A detected temperature outside this range can trigger tE2.
However, an extreme calculated temperature does not necessarily mean that the compressor inlet physically reached that temperature.
An open or shorted thermistor circuit can also produce an electrical signal that the control interprets as an out-of-range temperature.
Common Causes
Based directly on the referenced diagnostic information, the primary conditions associated with tE2 are:
- Open Compressor Inlet Thermistor
- Shorted Compressor Inlet Thermistor
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature below −20°C
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature above 200°C
During diagnosis, the thermistor and its circuit should therefore be evaluated before assuming that another heat-pump component needs replacement.
What You Can Check
1. Confirm the exact washer model.
The example provided by the source is from the LG WM6998 washer/dryer combo.
Different LG models may use different drying systems, sensor arrangements, connectors, and diagnostic specifications.
2. Identify the Compressor Inlet Thermistor.
Use service information for the exact model to identify the correct temperature sensor.
This is especially important because a heat-pump system can contain multiple thermistors monitoring different locations.
3. Inspect the thermistor circuit.
Check the thermistor connector and associated wiring for obvious problems such as:
- Loose connection
- Disconnected connector
- Damaged wiring
- Broken conductor
- Signs of an open or shorted circuit
4. Measure thermistor resistance.
The source’s specified solution is:
Check Compressor Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare it to the chart.
Because thermistor resistance changes with temperature, the resistance measurement must be interpreted according to the sensor’s actual temperature and the appropriate reference chart.
Why the Temperature/Resistance Chart Matters
A thermistor does not have one fixed resistance value.
Its resistance changes as its temperature changes.
For that reason, simply obtaining continuity through the sensor is not enough to determine whether it is accurately measuring temperature.
The measured resistance should be compared with the expected value at approximately the same temperature.
If the resistance does not correspond to the temperature/resistance relationship specified for the sensor, the thermistor may be defective.
Open vs. Shorted Compressor Inlet Thermistor
The source specifically identifies both an open and a shorted Compressor Inlet Thermistor as possible tE2 conditions.
An open circuit means the expected electrical path through the sensor circuit has been interrupted.
A short circuit means there is an abnormally low-resistance or unintended electrical path.
Either condition can prevent the control system from receiving a valid compressor inlet temperature signal.
tE2 on the LG WM6998
The diagnostic example shown by the source is specifically from the LG WM6998.
According to the reference, there are five thermistors associated with the heat-pump system in this example.
This is important because tE2 does not simply mean “one of the temperature sensors is bad.”
It specifically identifies the:
Compressor Inlet Thermistor
The WM6998 example should not be assumed to represent the exact physical layout or sensor configuration of every LG washer/dryer combo.
Does tE2 Mean the Compressor Is Bad?
No, not by itself.
Despite the word “compressor” in the error description, tE2 specifically refers to the Compressor Inlet Thermistorand its temperature signal.
The source does not identify tE2 itself as proof of a failed compressor.
Therefore, the following parts should not be replaced solely because tE2 appears:
- Compressor
- Inverter/control electronics
- Drying blower
- Entire heat-pump assembly
The Compressor Inlet Thermistor circuit should be diagnosed first.
Does tE2 Automatically Mean the Thermistor Is Bad?
Not necessarily.
The code identifies an abnormal thermistor condition, but an apparent open or short can potentially involve the sensor’s electrical path rather than the sensing element alone.
A sensible diagnostic sequence is:
Identify sensor → inspect connections → inspect wiring → measure resistance → compare with temperature chart
This helps avoid replacing a thermistor when the actual problem is in its connection or wiring.
tE1 vs. tE2
These codes are closely related but monitor different locations.
tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Duct Inlet Thermistor. The source specifies an abnormal range below −30°C or above 120°C.
tE2 — Compressor Inlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Compressor Inlet Thermistor. The source specifies an abnormal range below −20°C or above 200°C.
Therefore, the suffix matters. A tE2 diagnosis should focus on the compressor inlet temperature-sensing circuit, not the duct inlet sensor used for tE1.
If the tE2 Error Returns
If tE2 continues to appear:
- Confirm the complete LG model number.
- Identify the Compressor Inlet Thermistor using model-specific service information.
- Inspect its connector and associated wiring.
- Check the circuit for an open or shorted condition.
- Measure the thermistor resistance.
- Determine the approximate temperature of the sensor.
- Compare the resistance measurement with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
- Repair or replace components only after identifying the actual fault.
Do not automatically apply WM6998 sensor locations or specifications to other models.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended if:
- tE2 repeatedly returns
- The Compressor Inlet Thermistor needs to be accessed
- Thermistor resistance needs to be measured
- Heat-pump system disassembly is required
- Wiring or connector diagnosis is necessary
- The correct sensor cannot be identified
Heat-pump washer/dryer combos can contain several temperature sensors, so identifying and testing the correct thermistor is particularly important.
Key Point
tE2 means Compressor Inlet Temperature Error.
The code is associated with the Compressor Inlet Thermistor being open or shorted, or with a detected temperature below −20°C (−4°F) or above 200°C (392°F).
The primary diagnostic step is to measure the Compressor Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare it with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
The example provided by the source comes from the LG WM6998, which has five thermistors associated with its heat-pump system, so its exact configuration should not be generalized to every LG front-load washer.
tE3 — Condenser Outlet Temperature Error
The tE3 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Condenser Outlet Temperature Error.
On applicable LG washer/dryer combo models, the control system has detected an abnormal signal from the Condenser Outlet Thermistor, a temperature sensor associated with the heat-pump drying system.
According to the diagnostic reference, tE3 can occur when the Condenser Outlet Thermistor is:
- Electrically open
- Electrically shorted
- Detecting a temperature below −20°C (−4°F)
- Detecting a temperature above 200°C (392°F)
The specified diagnostic procedure is to measure the Condenser Outlet Thermistor resistance and compare the result with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
What Does the tE3 Error Code Mean?
tE3 identifies an abnormal temperature-sensing condition at the condenser outlet.
The thermistor changes resistance as its temperature changes. The washer’s electronic control monitors this electrical signal to determine the temperature at this point in the heat-pump system.
If the circuit becomes open or shorted, or if the signal corresponds to a temperature outside the expected diagnostic range, the washer can display tE3.
This makes tE3 primarily a temperature-sensor circuit error, rather than proof that the condenser or entire heat-pump system has failed.
Temperature Limits for tE3
The referenced diagnostic information specifies the following limits:
Below −20°C (−4°F)
or
Above 200°C (392°F)
A detected value outside this range can trigger tE3.
However, an extremely high or low calculated temperature does not necessarily mean that the condenser outlet has physically reached that temperature.
An open or shorted thermistor circuit can also create an electrical signal that the control interprets as an out-of-range temperature.
Common Causes
Based on the diagnostic reference, the primary conditions associated with tE3 are:
- Open Condenser Outlet Thermistor
- Shorted Condenser Outlet Thermistor
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature below −20°C
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature above 200°C
When diagnosing tE3, the Condenser Outlet Thermistor and its circuit should therefore be checked before replacing other heat-pump components.
What You Can Check
1. Confirm the exact LG model.
The detailed example shown by the source is based on the LG WM6998 washer/dryer combo.
Sensor locations and heat-pump configurations can differ between models.
2. Identify the Condenser Outlet Thermistor.
Use the wiring diagram or service documentation for the exact model.
This is particularly important because the heat-pump system may contain several thermistors that look similar but monitor different locations.
3. Inspect the thermistor connection and wiring.
Check for:
- Loose connector
- Disconnected connector
- Damaged wiring
- Broken conductors
- Evidence of an open or shorted circuit
4. Measure the thermistor resistance.
The diagnostic reference instructs technicians to:
Check Condenser Outlet Thermistor resistance and compare it to the chart.
The resistance must be evaluated in relation to the sensor’s temperature.
Why the Temperature/Resistance Chart Is Important
A thermistor does not have one fixed resistance value.
Its resistance changes according to temperature.
For this reason, measuring continuity alone is not sufficient to determine whether the Condenser Outlet Thermistor is operating correctly.
The measured resistance should be compared with the expected resistance at approximately the same temperature.
If the value does not correspond to the temperature/resistance relationship specified for the sensor, the thermistor may be defective.
Open vs. Shorted Condenser Outlet Thermistor
The source identifies both open and shorted conditions as possible causes of tE3.
An open circuit means the normal electrical path through the thermistor circuit has been interrupted.
A short circuit means an abnormally low-resistance or unintended electrical path exists.
Either condition can prevent the washer’s control system from receiving a valid condenser outlet temperature signal.
tE3 on the LG WM6998
The diagnostic example provided by the source is from the LG WM6998 heat-pump washer/dryer combo.
This system uses five thermistors to monitor temperatures at different points in the drying system.
For tE3, the relevant sensor is specifically the:
Condenser Outlet Thermistor
This distinction matters because testing the wrong thermistor could lead to an incorrect diagnosis.
The WM6998 configuration should be treated as a model-specific example rather than a universal layout for every LG washer or washer/dryer combo.
Does tE3 Mean the Condenser Is Bad?
No, not by itself.
Although the code is called Condenser Outlet Temperature Error, it specifically concerns the temperature signal from the Condenser Outlet Thermistor.
The code alone does not prove that the condenser itself needs replacement.
Likewise, tE3 alone does not establish failure of the:
- Compressor
- Drying blower fan
- Entire heat-pump assembly
- Main Control Board
The temperature-sensing circuit should be diagnosed first.
Does tE3 Automatically Mean the Thermistor Is Bad?
Not necessarily.
An open or shorted condition can potentially involve the thermistor itself, its connector, or associated wiring.
A useful diagnostic sequence is:
Identify thermistor → inspect connector → inspect wiring → measure resistance → compare with temperature chart
Only after the circuit has been checked should a component be replaced.
tE1 vs. tE2 vs. tE3
These codes belong to the same temperature-sensing family but identify different monitoring locations.
tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Duct Inlet Thermistor.
tE2 — Compressor Inlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Compressor Inlet Thermistor.
tE3 — Condenser Outlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Condenser Outlet Thermistor.
Therefore, the suffix after tE is important. Each code directs diagnosis toward a different temperature sensor and location within the drying system.
If the tE3 Error Returns
If tE3 continues to appear:
- Confirm the complete washer model number.
- Identify the Condenser Outlet Thermistor using model-specific service information.
- Inspect its connector.
- Inspect the associated wiring.
- Check the circuit for an open or shorted condition.
- Measure the thermistor resistance.
- Determine the approximate sensor temperature.
- Compare the resistance with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
- Repair the wiring or replace the thermistor only after the fault has been identified.
Do not automatically apply WM6998 sensor locations or component specifications to other LG models.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended if:
- tE3 repeatedly returns
- The Condenser Outlet Thermistor needs to be accessed
- Thermistor resistance needs to be measured
- Wiring or connector testing is required
- Heat-pump system disassembly is necessary
- The correct temperature sensor cannot be confidently identified
Heat-pump washer/dryer combos can contain several thermistors, so accurate identification of the Condenser Outlet Thermistor is essential.
Key Point
tE3 means Condenser Outlet Temperature Error.
The code indicates that the Condenser Outlet Thermistor is open or shorted, or its signal corresponds to a temperature below −20°C (−4°F) or above 200°C (392°F).
The primary diagnostic step is to measure the Condenser Outlet Thermistor resistance and compare it with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
The detailed example in the source applies to the LG WM6998 heat-pump washer/dryer combo, which uses five thermistors, so its exact sensor configuration should not automatically be generalized to every LG front-load washer.
tE4 — Evaporator Inlet Temperature Error
The tE4 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an Evaporator Inlet Temperature Error.
On applicable LG washer/dryer combo models, the control system has detected an abnormal signal from the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor, a temperature sensor associated with the heat-pump drying system.
According to the diagnostic reference, tE4 can be triggered when the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor is:
- Electrically open
- Electrically shorted
- Detecting a temperature below −20°C (−4°F)
- Detecting a temperature above 200°C (392°F)
The specified diagnostic action is to check the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare the measurement with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
What Does the tE4 Error Code Mean?
tE4 identifies an abnormal temperature-sensing condition at the evaporator inlet.
The thermistor changes its electrical resistance as temperature changes. The washer’s electronic control monitors this signal to determine the temperature at this location in the heat-pump system.
If the thermistor circuit becomes open or shorted, or its signal corresponds to a temperature outside the expected diagnostic range, the washer can display tE4.
Therefore, tE4 primarily identifies a temperature-sensor circuit problem. It does not automatically indicate failure of the evaporator or the entire heat-pump system.
Temperature Limits for tE4
The diagnostic reference specifies the following limits:
Below −20°C (−4°F)
or
Above 200°C (392°F)
A detected value outside this range can trigger tE4.
However, an extremely high or low calculated temperature does not necessarily mean the evaporator inlet has physically reached that temperature.
An open or shorted thermistor circuit can also produce a signal that the control interprets as an impossible or out-of-range temperature.
Common Causes
Based on the referenced diagnostic information, the primary conditions associated with tE4 are:
- Open Evaporator Inlet Thermistor
- Shorted Evaporator Inlet Thermistor
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature below −20°C
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature above 200°C
The thermistor and its electrical circuit should therefore be checked before assuming another heat-pump component has failed.
What You Can Check
1. Confirm the exact LG model.
The detailed example provided by the diagnostic reference is based on the LG WM6998 washer/dryer combo.
Different models may use different drying systems, sensor locations, wiring, and diagnostic specifications.
2. Identify the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor.
Use the wiring diagram or service information for the exact model to locate the correct sensor.
This is particularly important on heat-pump systems because several thermistors may be installed in relatively close areas but monitor different temperatures.
3. Inspect the thermistor connection.
Check for:
- Loose connector
- Disconnected connector
- Damaged terminals
- Visible wiring damage
4. Inspect the wiring.
Look for broken, pinched, damaged, or shorted conductors between the thermistor and the control electronics.
5. Measure thermistor resistance.
The diagnostic reference instructs technicians to:
Check Evaporator Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare it to the chart.
The measured resistance must be evaluated in relation to the temperature of the sensor.
Why the Temperature/Resistance Chart Matters
A thermistor does not have one fixed resistance value.
Its resistance changes as its temperature changes, allowing the electronic control to determine temperature from the electrical signal.
For this reason, simply finding continuity through the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor does not prove that the sensor is operating correctly.
The resistance reading should be compared with the expected value for approximately the same temperature.
A substantial mismatch can indicate that the thermistor is providing an incorrect temperature signal.
Open vs. Shorted Evaporator Inlet Thermistor
The source specifically identifies both open and shorted thermistor conditions as causes of tE4.
An open circuit means that the expected electrical path through the thermistor circuit has been interrupted.
A short circuit means there is an abnormally low-resistance or unintended electrical path.
Either condition prevents the washer’s control system from receiving a valid evaporator inlet temperature signal.
tE4 on the LG WM6998
The diagnostic example shown by the source comes from the LG WM6998 heat-pump washer/dryer combo.
The referenced heat-pump system uses five thermistors to monitor temperatures at different locations.
For tE4, the relevant sensor is specifically the:
Evaporator Inlet Thermistor
This distinction is important because testing another thermistor in the system would not properly diagnose a tE4 condition.
The WM6998 configuration should be treated as a model-specific example, not as a universal sensor layout for every LG front-load washer.
Does tE4 Mean the Evaporator Is Bad?
No, not by itself.
Although the code is called Evaporator Inlet Temperature Error, it specifically identifies an abnormal signal from the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor.
The code alone does not prove that the evaporator itself has failed.
Likewise, tE4 alone does not justify replacing the:
- Evaporator
- Compressor
- Drying blower fan
- Entire heat-pump assembly
- Main Control Board
The temperature-sensing circuit should be diagnosed first.
Does tE4 Automatically Mean the Thermistor Is Bad?
Not necessarily.
An open or shorted condition can involve:
- The thermistor
- Thermistor connector
- Associated wiring
Therefore, the sensor should not automatically be replaced before its circuit is inspected.
A useful diagnostic sequence is:
Identify sensor → inspect connector → inspect wiring → measure resistance → compare with temperature chart
This helps distinguish an actual sensor failure from a wiring or connection problem.
tE1 vs. tE2 vs. tE3 vs. tE4
These codes belong to the same temperature-sensing family but identify different locations in the drying system:
tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Duct Inlet Thermistor.
tE2 — Compressor Inlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Compressor Inlet Thermistor.
tE3 — Condenser Outlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Condenser Outlet Thermistor.
tE4 — Evaporator Inlet Temperature Error
Associated with the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor.
The suffix is therefore important because each code directs diagnosis toward a specific temperature sensor rather than the heat-pump system in general.
If the tE4 Error Returns
If tE4 continues to appear:
- Confirm the complete washer model number.
- Identify the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor using model-specific service information.
- Inspect the thermistor connector.
- Inspect the associated wiring.
- Check the circuit for an open or shorted condition.
- Measure the thermistor resistance.
- Determine the approximate temperature of the sensor.
- Compare the resistance with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
- Repair the wiring or replace the thermistor only after the faulty part of the circuit has been identified.
Do not automatically apply WM6998 sensor locations or specifications to other LG washer models.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended if:
- tE4 repeatedly returns
- The Evaporator Inlet Thermistor needs to be accessed
- Thermistor resistance needs to be measured
- Wiring or connector testing is required
- Heat-pump system disassembly is necessary
- The correct thermistor cannot be confidently identified
Because heat-pump washer/dryer combos can contain several similar temperature sensors, correct sensor identification is particularly important.
Key Point
tE4 means Evaporator Inlet Temperature Error.
The code indicates that the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor is open or shorted, or its signal corresponds to a temperature below −20°C (−4°F) or above 200°C (392°F).
The primary diagnostic step is to measure the Evaporator Inlet Thermistor resistance and compare it with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
The detailed example provided by the source applies to the LG WM6998 heat-pump washer/dryer combo, which uses five thermistors, so its exact sensor configuration should not automatically be generalized to every LG front-load washer.
tE5 — Duct Outlet Temperature Error
The tE5 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Duct Outlet Temperature Error.
On applicable LG washer/dryer combo models, the control system has detected an abnormal signal from the Duct Outlet Thermistor, a temperature sensor associated with the heat-pump drying system.
According to the diagnostic reference, tE5 can be triggered when the Duct Outlet Thermistor is:
- Electrically open
- Electrically shorted
- Detecting a temperature below −30°C (−22°F)
- Detecting a temperature above 120°C (248°F)
The specified diagnostic action is to check the Duct Outlet Thermistor resistance and compare the measurement with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
What Does the tE5 Error Code Mean?
tE5 identifies an abnormal temperature-sensing condition at the duct outlet.
The thermistor changes its electrical resistance as temperature changes. The washer’s control electronics monitor this resistance to determine the temperature at this location in the drying airflow system.
If the thermistor circuit becomes open or shorted, or its signal corresponds to a temperature outside the specified range, the washer can display tE5.
Therefore, tE5 primarily points to the Duct Outlet Thermistor circuit rather than automatically indicating a failure of the entire drying or heat-pump system.
Temperature Limits for tE5
The referenced diagnostic information specifies the following limits:
Below −30°C (−22°F)
or
Above 120°C (248°F)
A detected temperature outside this range can trigger tE5.
However, an extremely high or low calculated temperature does not necessarily mean the duct outlet has physically reached that temperature.
An open or shorted thermistor circuit can produce an electrical signal that the control interprets as an impossible or out-of-range temperature.
Common Causes
Based on the referenced diagnostic information, the primary conditions associated with tE5 are:
- Open Duct Outlet Thermistor
- Shorted Duct Outlet Thermistor
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature below −30°C
- Thermistor signal corresponding to a temperature above 120°C
The thermistor and its circuit should therefore be checked before replacing other components in the drying system.
What You Can Check
1. Confirm the exact LG model.
The detailed example provided by the source comes from the LG WM6998 washer/dryer combo.
Different LG models may use different drying systems, sensor locations, wiring, and diagnostic specifications.
2. Identify the Duct Outlet Thermistor.
Use service information or the wiring diagram for the exact model to identify the correct temperature sensor.
This is especially important because heat-pump systems can use several thermistors at different locations.
3. Inspect the thermistor connection.
Check for:
- Loose connector
- Partially disconnected connector
- Damaged terminals
- Visible wiring damage
4. Inspect the wiring.
Look for broken, pinched, damaged, or shorted conductors associated with the Duct Outlet Thermistor circuit.
5. Measure the thermistor resistance.
The diagnostic reference instructs technicians to:
Check Duct Outlet Thermistor resistance and compare it to the chart.
The resistance reading should be interpreted according to the temperature of the sensor when the measurement is taken.
Why the Temperature/Resistance Chart Matters
A thermistor does not have one fixed resistance value.
Its resistance changes predictably with temperature, allowing the electronic control to use the sensor as a temperature-measuring device.
For this reason, simply confirming continuity through the Duct Outlet Thermistor does not establish that the sensor is accurate.
The measured resistance should be compared with the expected value at approximately the same temperature.
If the resistance does not correspond to the specified temperature/resistance relationship, the thermistor may be defective.
Open vs. Shorted Duct Outlet Thermistor
The source specifically identifies both open and shorted thermistor conditions as causes of tE5.
An open circuit means the expected electrical path through the sensor circuit has been interrupted.
A short circuit means there is an abnormally low-resistance or unintended electrical path.
Either condition prevents the control system from receiving a valid duct outlet temperature signal.
tE5 on the LG WM6998
The diagnostic example shown by the source is from the LG WM6998 heat-pump washer/dryer combo.
The referenced heat-pump system uses five thermistors to monitor temperatures at different locations.
For tE5, the relevant sensor is specifically the:
Duct Outlet Thermistor
The WM6998 example should be treated as model-specific. Its exact thermistor locations, wiring, connectors, and heat-pump configuration should not automatically be applied to every LG front-load washer.
Does tE5 Mean the Drying System Has Failed?
No, not by itself.
tE5 specifically identifies an abnormal Duct Outlet Thermistor signal.
It does not by itself prove failure of the:
- Compressor
- Condenser
- Evaporator
- Drying blower fan
- Entire heat-pump assembly
- Main Control Board
Those components should not be replaced solely because tE5 is displayed.
The temperature-sensing circuit should be diagnosed first.
Does tE5 Automatically Mean the Thermistor Is Bad?
Not necessarily.
An apparent open or shorted circuit may involve:
- The Duct Outlet Thermistor itself
- Thermistor connector
- Associated wiring
A useful diagnostic sequence is:
Identify thermistor → inspect connector → inspect wiring → measure resistance → compare with temperature chart
This helps avoid unnecessary sensor replacement when the actual problem is a connection or wiring fault.
tE1–tE5: Which Thermistor Does Each Code Identify?
On the heat-pump configuration described by the referenced WM6998 diagnostic information, these codes identify different temperature-sensing locations:
tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
Duct Inlet Thermistor
tE2 — Compressor Inlet Temperature Error
Compressor Inlet Thermistor
tE3 — Condenser Outlet Temperature Error
Condenser Outlet Thermistor
tE4 — Evaporator Inlet Temperature Error
Evaporator Inlet Thermistor
tE5 — Duct Outlet Temperature Error
Duct Outlet Thermistor
This is why the complete code matters. Although all five codes concern temperature sensing, each directs diagnosis toward a different thermistor.
tE1 vs. tE5
tE1 and tE5 are particularly easy to confuse because both relate to duct temperature.
tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
Monitors the duct inlet.
tE5 — Duct Outlet Temperature Error
Monitors the duct outlet.
For both codes, the referenced diagnostic limits are:
Below −30°C (−22°F) or above 120°C (248°F).
The difference is the location being monitored, not the stated temperature limits.
If the tE5 Error Returns
If tE5 continues to appear:
- Confirm the complete washer model number.
- Identify the Duct Outlet Thermistor using model-specific service information.
- Inspect the thermistor connector.
- Inspect the associated wiring.
- Check for an open or shorted circuit.
- Measure the thermistor resistance.
- Determine the approximate sensor temperature.
- Compare the resistance with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
- Repair the wiring or replace the thermistor only after the faulty part of the circuit has been identified.
Do not automatically apply WM6998 component locations or specifications to another LG model.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended if:
- tE5 repeatedly returns
- The Duct Outlet Thermistor needs to be accessed
- Thermistor resistance needs to be measured
- Wiring or connector testing is required
- Heat-pump system disassembly is necessary
- The correct thermistor cannot be confidently identified
Heat-pump washer/dryer combos can contain several temperature sensors, so identifying the correct thermistor before testing or replacement is especially important.
Key Point
tE5 means Duct Outlet Temperature Error.
The code indicates that the Duct Outlet Thermistor is open or shorted, or its signal corresponds to a temperature below −30°C (−22°F) or above 120°C (248°F).
The primary diagnostic step is to measure the Duct Outlet Thermistor resistance and compare it with the appropriate temperature/resistance chart.
For the referenced LG WM6998 heat-pump washer/dryer combo, tE5 identifies the Duct Outlet Thermistor, one of the system’s five temperature sensors. The exact configuration should not automatically be generalized to every LG front-load washer.
Ub — Unbalance Detected (Not an Error)
he Ub code on an LG front-load washer indicates that the washer has detected an unbalanced load.
Ub is not an error code.
When the washer detects that laundry is distributed unevenly inside the drum, it attempts to rebalance the load automatically before continuing the spin cycle.
If the washer successfully redistributes the load, normal operation can continue. If it cannot correct the imbalance after repeated attempts, the washer may eventually display a UE error code.
What Does the Ub Code Mean?
Ub means the washer has detected an unbalanced condition during operation.
During spinning, laundry needs to be distributed reasonably evenly around the drum. If a large portion of the load collects on one side, the drum can become unstable as its speed increases.
The washer detects this condition and attempts to correct it rather than immediately continuing at high spin speed.
This is a normal protective function of the washer.
Is Ub an Error Code?
No.
Ub should be understood as an unbalance detection/status indication, not necessarily as evidence of a washer failure.
When Ub appears, the washer is attempting to correct the load distribution.
In many cases, no repair is required.
What Does the Washer Do When Ub Appears?
When an unbalanced condition is detected, the washer can attempt to redistribute the load.
This may involve changing drum movement and attempting the spin process again.
As a result, you may notice:
- Spin cycle taking longer than expected
- Drum slowing down
- Washer attempting to spin again
- Additional load redistribution
- Ub appearing on the display
This behavior can be normal while the washer tries to achieve a stable load.
Common Causes of an Unbalanced Load
Ub can occur when laundry cannot distribute evenly around the drum.
Common situations include:
- Load is too small
- Load is too large
- One heavy item is being washed by itself
- Heavy and lightweight items are mixed unevenly
- Laundry becomes tangled
- Items collect on one side of the drum
- Bulky items cannot redistribute properly
The condition does not automatically mean that the washer itself is defective.
What You Can Check
1. Allow the washer to attempt redistribution.
Because Ub indicates that the washer is trying to correct the imbalance, it may resolve the condition automatically.
2. Redistribute the laundry manually if necessary.
If the washer cannot balance the load, pause the cycle when safe to do so and distribute the items more evenly around the drum.
3. Check for a very small load.
A single heavy item may be difficult for the washer to balance.
Adding appropriate items may sometimes help create a more evenly distributed load.
4. Check for an overloaded drum.
Too many items can prevent laundry from moving freely enough to redistribute.
Remove some items if the washer is excessively loaded.
5. Check bulky items.
Blankets, towels, bedding, and other heavy items can absorb large amounts of water and collect on one side of the drum.
Rearrange the load before restarting the spin cycle.
Why a Small Load Can Cause Ub
It may seem that a smaller load should always be easier for the washer to spin, but this is not necessarily true.
If only one or two heavy items are inside the drum, their weight can become concentrated in one area.
The washer may be unable to distribute that weight evenly enough for a stable high-speed spin.
Therefore, Ub can occur with both too little laundry and too much laundry.
Why the Washer Keeps Trying to Spin
When the washer detects imbalance, immediately accelerating to full spin speed could produce excessive vibration.
Instead, the control system attempts to correct the load distribution.
This is why the washer may appear to:
start spinning → slow down → redistribute → try spinning again
The repeated attempts are part of the washer’s effort to correct the unbalanced condition.
Ub vs. UE
This distinction is especially important.
Ub — Unbalance Detected
The washer has detected an unbalanced load and is attempting to correct it. Ub itself is not considered an error.
UE — Unbalance Error
The washer was unable to correct the unbalanced condition after its attempts to redistribute the load.
In simple terms:
Ub = washer is trying to rebalance
UE = washer could not successfully rebalance
Therefore, seeing Ub briefly during a cycle does not necessarily indicate a problem.
Does Ub Mean the Washer Is Not Level?
Not necessarily.
A Ub indication can occur simply because the laundry itself is unevenly distributed.
However, if Ub or UE occurs frequently with many different types of properly sized loads, the washer’s installation should also be considered.
Check that:
- Washer is stable
- All feet contact the floor properly
- Washer does not rock
- Appliance is reasonably level
- Floor is sufficiently rigid
Repeated imbalance with normal loads may justify looking beyond load distribution alone.
Does Ub Mean the Suspension Is Bad?
Not based on Ub alone.
A single Ub indication is commonly related to the laundry load.
Do not replace suspension components, bearings, sensors, or control electronics simply because Ub appeared.
Mechanical diagnosis becomes more appropriate when imbalance occurs repeatedly with correctly loaded laundry and proper washer installation.
What If Ub Keeps Appearing?
If Ub repeatedly appears:
- Stop and redistribute the laundry.
- Avoid washing one heavy item by itself.
- Make sure the drum is not overloaded.
- Make sure the load is not excessively small.
- Untangle large or heavy items.
- Verify that the washer is stable and level.
- Check whether the floor allows excessive movement.
- Observe whether the problem occurs with many different normal loads.
If repeated imbalance occurs regardless of load size and distribution, further diagnosis may be necessary.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis may be appropriate if:
- Ub or UE occurs on nearly every load
- Properly distributed loads repeatedly become unbalanced
- Washer shakes or moves excessively
- Drum movement appears abnormal
- Washer is correctly leveled but cannot complete spin
- Unusual mechanical noises occur during spinning
- The washer repeatedly transitions from Ub to UE
In these cases, the problem may extend beyond normal laundry distribution and require inspection of the washer’s mechanical or sensing systems.
Key Point
Ub indicates that the LG washer has detected an unbalanced load and is attempting to correct it. Ub itself is not an error code.
The washer may redistribute the laundry and attempt the spin again. If it successfully balances the load, the cycle can continue normally.
If the washer cannot correct the imbalance after repeated attempts, it may eventually display UE — Unbalance Error.
So the practical distinction is:
Ub = unbalance detected, correction in progress
UE = washer could not correct the unbalance.
UE — Unbalanced Error
The UE error code on an LG front-load washer indicates an Unbalanced Error.
The washer has detected that the load cannot be distributed evenly enough for normal operation, particularly during the spin cycle.
According to the diagnostic reference, common causes include a load that is too small or out of balance, heavy items mixed with lighter items, or a washer that is not properly leveled.
What Does the UE Error Code Mean?
During the spin cycle, the washer needs the weight of the laundry to be distributed reasonably evenly around the drum.
If too much weight collects on one side, the drum can become unstable as spin speed increases.
The washer detects this condition and limits or interrupts spinning to prevent excessive vibration.
If the load cannot be properly balanced, the washer can display UE.
Common Causes
The primary causes identified by the diagnostic reference are:
- Load is too small
- Laundry is unevenly distributed
- Articles have become tangled
- Heavy items are mixed with lighter items
- Washer is not level
- Floor is weak or uneven
- Shipping bolts have not been removed
- Washer is not securely installed on its pedestal
- Balance weights are loose
The laundry itself should therefore be checked before assuming that the washer has a mechanical failure.
What You Can Check
1. Redistribute the laundry.
If articles have become tangled or collected on one side of the drum, manually redistribute them more evenly.
Then restart the spin operation.
2. Check for a very small load.
The source specifically identifies a load that is too small as a possible cause of UE.
A small number of items may collect on one side of the drum and make balancing difficult.
LG’s recommended solution is to add additional items so the washer can balance the load.
3. Avoid mixing very heavy and very light items.
Heavy articles can absorb significantly more water and become much heavier than lightweight clothing.
The source recommends washing articles of somewhat similar weight so the washer can distribute the load more evenly.
Check Whether the Washer Is Level
If UE occurs repeatedly with normal loads, check the installation.
The washer should sit firmly on the floor without rocking.
The source specifically recommends:
Level the unit.
A weak or uneven floor can also cause the UE error.
Check that:
- All washer feet contact the floor securely
- Washer does not rock from corner to corner
- Appliance is properly leveled
- Floor is sufficiently solid and stable
Correct installation becomes especially important during high-speed spinning.
Check the Shipping Bolts
The diagnostic procedure specifically instructs technicians to verify that the shipping bolts have been removed.
Shipping bolts secure the tub assembly during transportation and must be removed during installation.
If they remain installed, normal tub movement can be restricted and severe vibration or balance problems may occur.
This check is particularly important if UE began immediately after:
- A new washer installation
- Moving the washer
- Reinstalling the appliance
Check Pedestal Installation
If the washer is installed on a pedestal, verify that the appliance is securely mounted to the pedestal.
The referenced LG information specifies that improper pedestal attachment can result in noise and vibration.
Therefore, recurring UE on a pedestal-mounted washer should include an inspection of the mounting system.
Check the Balance Weights
The diagnostic reference also specifically recommends checking the washer’s balance weights and making sure they are secure.
These counterweights help stabilize the tub assembly during operation.
A loose balance weight can contribute to:
- Excessive vibration
- Abnormal movement
- Noise during spin
- Repeated balance problems
Inspection of internal balance weights requires access inside the washer and is generally better suited to professional service.
Ub vs. UE
Ub and UE are closely related, but they should not be treated as identical.
Ub — Unbalance Detected
The washer has detected an imbalance and may be attempting to redistribute the load.
UE — Unbalanced Error
The washer cannot maintain an acceptable balance condition and the load or installation needs attention.
In practical terms:
Ub → washer is dealing with an imbalance
UE → imbalance has become a condition that prevents normal operation
This distinction is useful because seeing Ub temporarily does not necessarily mean the washer requires intervention.
Does UE Mean the Washer Is Broken?
Usually, no.
The primary causes listed by the source involve laundry loading and washer installation, not failed electronic components.
Before considering parts replacement:
Redistribute load → adjust load size → separate heavy/light items → level washer → check floor → verify shipping bolts → inspect pedestal installation
Only if UE continues despite correct loading and installation should diagnosis move further into the washer.
UE With an Empty Drum
If UE occurs even when the washer is empty, ordinary laundry imbalance obviously cannot explain the condition.
In that situation, check the installation-related causes first:
- Washer level
- Floor stability
- Shipping bolts
- Pedestal installation
- Balance weights
The source’s later technical discussion also notes suspension/shock absorbers and physical wear as areas that may warrant inspection when UE occurs without a load, although the main UE troubleshooting guidance emphasizes loading and installation first.
Does UE Mean the Hall Sensor or Main PCB Is Bad?
Not typically.
The source’s technical discussion makes an important distinction: UE is typically related to laundry loading or installation issues.
If the problem were caused by the stator, Hall sensor, or Main PCB, LG notes that the washer would be more likely to display an LE error instead.
Therefore, Hall sensor or Main PCB replacement should not be the starting point for a normal UE diagnosis.
If the UE Error Returns
If UE repeatedly returns:
- Redistribute tangled laundry.
- Add suitable items if the load is too small.
- Avoid mixing extremely heavy items with lightweight laundry.
- Verify that the washer is level.
- Check that the floor is solid and even.
- Confirm that all shipping bolts have been removed.
- If installed on a pedestal, verify secure mounting.
- Inspect the balance weights if the problem persists.
- If UE occurs with normal loads or an empty drum despite correct installation, investigate the washer’s mechanical suspension and related systems.
This sequence prioritizes the causes specifically identified in the LG diagnostic reference.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis may be appropriate if:
- UE appears on nearly every load
- Properly distributed loads repeatedly fail to spin
- The washer is correctly leveled but vibrates excessively
- UE occurs with an empty drum
- Balance weights appear loose
- The washer makes abnormal mechanical noises
- Tub or suspension movement appears abnormal
- Installation and loading causes have been eliminated
A recurring UE condition under normal loading conditions may require inspection beyond ordinary load redistribution.
Key Point
UE means Unbalanced Error.
Start with the load: redistribute tangled items, add additional items if the load is too small, and avoid mixing very heavy articles with much lighter laundry.
If UE continues, check the washer’s installation. Make sure it is level, standing on a solid floor, has its shipping bolts removed, is securely attached to its pedestal if applicable, and has secure balance weights.
Most UE problems should be approached as loading or installation issues first, rather than immediately suspecting the Hall sensor, Main PCB, or another electronic component.
u5 — Vibration Sensor Error
The u5 error code on an LG front-load washer indicates a Vibration Sensor Error.
The washer uses a vibration sensor to monitor tub movement and vibration during operation. If the control system cannot receive the expected signal from this sensor, the washer can display the u5 error code.
According to the diagnostic reference, the primary causes are:
- Poor or loose connection between the Vibration Sensor and Main Board
- Defective Vibration Sensor
The source also specifies a voltage check of 10–12 VDC between Pin 1 and Pin 3 at the vibration sensor circuit.
What Does the u5 Error Code Mean?
u5 means the washer has detected a problem involving its vibration sensing system.
The vibration sensor provides information that allows the washer’s electronic control to monitor movement of the tub during operation.
If the sensor is not properly connected or cannot provide the expected signal, the control may no longer be able to monitor vibration correctly and can generate u5.
Unlike Ub and UE, which are associated with an actual unbalanced load condition, u5 specifically directs diagnosis toward the vibration sensor and its electrical circuit.
Common Causes
According to the diagnostic reference, the primary causes of u5 are:
- Loose vibration sensor connection
- Poor electrical connection
- Connection problem between the vibration sensor and Main Board
- Defective vibration sensor
Because a connection problem can produce the same code as a failed sensor, the sensor should not automatically be replaced before its circuit is inspected.
What You Can Check
1. Power-cycle the washer.
Turn the washer off and disconnect power briefly before restarting it.
If u5 returns, further diagnosis is appropriate rather than repeatedly resetting the washer.
2. Inspect the Vibration Sensor connection.
With the appliance safely disconnected from power, inspect the sensor connector.
Look for:
- Loose connector
- Partially disconnected plug
- Damaged terminals
- Corrosion or contamination
- Visible wiring damage
Make sure the connection is fully seated.
3. Inspect the connection to the Main Board.
The source specifically identifies the connection between the Vibration Sensor and Main Board as an area to check.
Inspect the associated harness for:
- Loose connections
- Broken conductors
- Pinched wiring
- Damaged insulation
- Poor terminal contact
Vibration Sensor Voltage Check
The diagnostic reference specifies checking the voltage supplied to the vibration sensor.
The expected reading is:
10–12 VDC between Pin 1 and Pin 3
This measurement can help distinguish between a sensor problem and a problem elsewhere in the electrical circuit.
Live-voltage testing inside an appliance should only be performed by someone qualified to work safely around energized electrical components.
What If 10–12 VDC Is Present?
According to the referenced diagnostic procedure, if the specified voltage is present but the u5 condition remains, the Vibration Sensor should be replaced.
In practical diagnostic order:
Check connections → verify wiring → check 10–12 VDC supply → evaluate/replace Vibration Sensor
This helps avoid replacing the sensor when the actual problem is a loose connector or missing electrical supply.
What If the Correct Voltage Is Not Present?
If the expected 10–12 VDC between Pin 1 and Pin 3 is not present, replacing the vibration sensor immediately may not solve the problem.
The circuit between the sensor and Main Board should be inspected for:
- Harness damage
- Open wiring
- Poor terminal contact
- Loose Main Board connection
Further electrical diagnosis may be required to determine why the sensor is not receiving the expected supply.
What Does the Vibration Sensor Do?
The vibration sensor helps the washer monitor movement and vibration of the tub assembly.
During washing and especially spinning, the tub can move as the load shifts and drum speed changes.
Information from the vibration sensor allows the washer’s electronic control system to recognize this movement and respond appropriately.
If the sensor signal is unavailable or abnormal, the washer may not be able to monitor vibration as intended.
u5 vs. Ub vs. UE
These three codes can appear related because they all involve washer movement or balance, but they mean different things.
Ub — Unbalance Detected
The washer has detected an unbalanced load and is attempting to correct it. Ub is not an error code.
UE — Unbalanced Error
The washer has an unbalanced condition that is preventing normal operation. Loading and installation should be checked first.
u5 — Vibration Sensor Error
The washer has detected a problem involving the Vibration Sensor or its connection to the Main Board.
In simple terms:
Ub = unbalance detected
UE = unbalance problem
u5 = vibration sensing system problem
This distinction is important because redistributing laundry may resolve Ub or UE, but a persistent u5 requires diagnosis of the vibration sensor circuit.
Does u5 Mean the Load Is Unbalanced?
Not necessarily.
Although the vibration sensor monitors washer movement, the diagnostic reference identifies u5 as a Vibration Sensor Error, not simply an unbalanced-load warning.
If u5 appears repeatedly, do not assume that rearranging the laundry will solve the underlying problem.
The vibration sensor connection and electrical circuit should be checked.
Does u5 Automatically Mean the Vibration Sensor Is Bad?
No.
The source specifically identifies a poor connection between the Vibration Sensor and Main Board as a possible cause.
Therefore, replacing the sensor should not be the first step without checking:
- Sensor connector
- Wiring/harness
- Main Board connection
- Sensor supply voltage
If the specified 10–12 VDC supply is present and the fault remains, the diagnostic reference directs diagnosis toward the vibration sensor itself.
If the u5 Error Returns
If u5 continues to appear:
- Confirm the exact LG washer model.
- Disconnect the washer from power before inspecting connectors.
- Locate the Vibration Sensor using model-specific service information.
- Check the sensor connector.
- Inspect the harness between the sensor and Main Board.
- Check the Main Board connection.
- If qualified to perform live electrical testing, verify 10–12 VDC between Pin 1 and Pin 3.
- If the correct supply is present but u5 remains, evaluate the Vibration Sensor for replacement.
Model-specific wiring information should always be used before probing connectors or terminals.
When to Call a Professional Technician
Professional diagnosis is recommended if:
- u5 repeatedly returns
- Sensor wiring needs to be accessed
- The Vibration Sensor cannot be located
- Connector or harness testing is required
- Live DC voltage needs to be measured
- The correct voltage is present but the error remains
- The correct voltage is missing and circuit diagnosis is required
Because the diagnostic procedure involves electrical measurements between the vibration sensor and Main Board, this error may require more than ordinary user-level troubleshooting.
Key Point
u5 means Vibration Sensor Error.
The primary causes identified by the diagnostic reference are a poor connection between the Vibration Sensor and Main Board or a defective Vibration Sensor.
The specified electrical check is:
10–12 VDC between Pin 1 and Pin 3.
Start by checking the sensor connection and associated wiring. If the correct voltage is supplied to the sensor but the u5 error remains, the diagnostic reference directs diagnosis toward replacement of the Vibration Sensor.
UP — ThinQ UP Feature (Not an Error)
The UP message on an LG front-load washer is not an error code.
UP is a ThinQ UP Feature notification indicating that a compatible LG ThinQ appliance has a feature update available.
When the notification appears, the appliance can be connected with the LG ThinQ app to review available feature updates and install supported improvements.
What Does UP Mean?
UP means that the appliance has upgradeable content available through LG ThinQ.
It does not indicate a malfunction with the washer, control board, motor, sensors, or another component.
Instead, it is part of LG’s feature-update system for compatible connected appliances.
According to the reference, some LG units manufactured in 2022 already included this capability, while the feature program was activated beginning in April 2023.
Is UP an Error Code?
No.
The diagnostic reference explicitly identifies UP as not an error code.
It is a notification that the ThinQ appliance has a Feature Update available.
Therefore, seeing UP does not by itself mean the washer requires repair.
What Happens When UP Appears?
When a new compatible function is available, an upgrade notification can appear on the appliance’s control panel when the product is turned on.
The source describes the display notification as rotating its segments six times before returning to the normal status display.
The LG ThinQ app can then be used to review the available update.
What Types of Washer Features Can Be Updated?
For laundry appliances, the reference gives examples of features that may be updated through ThinQ UP, including:
- Pet care cycle features
- Display wallpaper
- Dispenser amount settings
- Dry-level adjustments
Available upgrades depend on the appliance model and the upgradeable content LG provides for that product.
What You Can Do
If UP appears:
1. Make sure the appliance is connected to LG ThinQ.
The feature-update system works through the connected ThinQ environment.
2. Open the LG ThinQ app.
Check the appliance for an available feature-update notification.
3. Review the available update.
The ThinQ Upgrade Center can show which new or updated features are available for the appliance.
4. Select the desired update.
Follow the instructions provided through the ThinQ app.
5. Allow the update to finish.
Do not interrupt the appliance while the update is being installed.
Do Not Turn Off the Appliance During an Update
The source specifically instructs users:
Do not unplug or turn off the unit while the update is in progress.
Interrupting power during a software or feature update can interfere with completion of the update.
Wait until the process has finished before disconnecting power.
What Happens After the Update?
After the update is completed, the newly available function can be configured through the Upgrade Center settingswhere applicable.
The exact options depend on:
- Washer model
- Installed software
- Available ThinQ UP content
- Hardware supported by the appliance
Not every LG washer receives the same upgrades.
Why Some ThinQ UP Features May Not Work on Every Appliance
An important detail in the reference is that some UP features may require additional hardware to become functional.
This means software availability alone does not necessarily guarantee that every advertised ThinQ UP feature can be added to every compatible appliance.
Hardware capabilities and model configuration still matter.
Does UP Mean the Washer Needs Repair?
No.
UP by itself does not indicate a washer malfunction.
There is normally no reason to replace:
- Main Control Board
- Display/control panel
- Wi-Fi module
- Motor
- Sensors
- Other washer components
simply because UP appears.
It is a feature-update notification, not a hardware fault code.
UP vs. Other LG Washer Codes
UP is different from diagnostic codes such as:
IE — Inlet Error
OE — Drain Pump/Outlet Error
LE — Locked Rotor Error
PE — Pressure Sensor Error
UE — Unbalanced Error
u5 — Vibration Sensor Error
Those codes identify operating or diagnostic conditions that may require troubleshooting.
UP, by contrast, indicates the availability of a ThinQ feature update.
UP vs. nF
These two messages can both involve LG ThinQ connectivity, but they mean different things.
nF — Wi-Fi Is Not Connected to Router
Indicates that the appliance has not been connected to the router and registered. The reference classifies nF as not an error and notes that it appears during Test Mode.
UP — ThinQ UP Feature
Indicates that a feature update is available for a compatible ThinQ appliance.
Therefore:
nF = appliance is not connected/registered
UP = new ThinQ feature content is available
If UP Keeps Appearing
A recurring UP notification does not automatically indicate a malfunction.
Check the LG ThinQ app to determine whether an available feature update is waiting to be reviewed or installed.
If an update is available:
- Open LG ThinQ.
- Select the appliance.
- Review the feature-update notification.
- Open the Upgrade Center.
- Select the available update.
- Keep the appliance powered during installation.
- Configure the new feature after the update if necessary.
If no upgrade is available or the notification behaves unexpectedly, ThinQ support may be needed rather than appliance repair.
When to Call a Professional Technician
UP alone normally does not require an appliance repair technician.
If the washer otherwise operates normally, treat UP as a software/feature notification.
Professional appliance diagnosis becomes relevant only if the washer also develops an actual operational problem or displays a separate diagnostic error code.
For problems specifically involving ThinQ registration, feature updates, or the Upgrade Center, ThinQ support is the more appropriate starting point.
Key Point
UP means ThinQ UP Feature, and it is not an error code.
It indicates that a compatible LG ThinQ appliance has a feature update available. The ThinQ app can be used to review the available content and install the update.
Some updates may depend on the appliance’s hardware, and the washer should not be unplugged or turned off while an update is being installed.
If the washer is otherwise operating normally, the UP notification does not indicate that the appliance needs repair.
On This Page
- How LG Washer Error Codes Work
- What an LG Washer Error Code Can Tell You
- An Error Code Does Not Always Mean a Part Has Failed
- Why LG Washer Error Codes Can Vary by Model
- What to Do When an Error Code Appears
- Can You Clear an LG Washer Error Code?
- When an Error Code Requires Professional Diagnosis
- Find Your LG Washer Error Code
- 1F — Filter Missing Error
- AE — Leak Error
- bE — Ball Sensor Error
- bU — Heavy Vibration Error
- Cd — Cool Down
- CE — Over Current Error
- CL — Control Lock
- CO1 — Wi-Fi Program Version
- dE — Door Error
- dE1 — Door Open Error
- dE2 — Door Not Locked Error
- dE4 — Door Open Error
- dHE — Dry Heater Error
- dr — Drain Feature
- Ed1 — ezDispense Detergent Error
- Ed2 — ezDispense Detergent Pump Error
- Ed3 — ezDispense Softener Error
- Ed4 — ezDispense Softener Pump Error
- Ed5 — ezDispense Communication Error
- EE — EEPROM Error
- F1 — Temperature Too High Error
- FE — Overfill Error
- IE — Inlet Error
- LE — Locked Rotor Error
- LE1 — Fan Motor Error
- LE2 — Compressor Error
- LE3 — Drying Blower Fan Motor Error
- LOE — Lid Open Error
- nC — NFC Module Error
- nE — Modem Is Abnormal Error
- nF — Wi-Fi Not Connected to Router
- nU — NFC Module Error
- OE — Outlet / Drain Pump Error
- OPn — Open Dispenser Drawer Error
- PE — Pressure Sensor Error
- PF — Power Failure
- PS — Supplied Voltage Is Not Correct
- Sud — Suds Error
- tcL — Tub Clean Cycle
- tE — Thermistor Error
- tE1 — Duct Inlet Temperature Error
- tE2 — Compressor Inlet Temperature Error
- tE3 — Condenser Outlet Temperature Error
- tE4 — Evaporator Inlet Temperature Error
- tE5 — Duct Outlet Temperature Error
- Ub — Unbalance Detected
- UE — Unbalanced Error
- u5 — Vibration Sensor Error
- UP — ThinQ UP Feature
Washer Repair Throughout the Denver Metro Area
Need Professional Washer Repair?
If your washer won’t drain, won’t spin, is leaking, vibrating excessively, or keeps displaying an error code, the problem may require professional diagnostics.
Mint Appliance Repair provides professional washer diagnosis and repair throughout the Denver metro area.
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Denver metro experts
TROUBLESHOOTING BY PROBLEM
- Refrigerator Not Cooling
- Dishwasher Not Draining
- Washer Won’t Drain
- Appliance Making Noise
- Dryer Not Heating
- Appliance Leaking Water
- Oven Not Heating
- Appliance Won’t Turn On
FEATURED REPAIR GUIDES
Why Is My Refrigerator Not Cooling?
Common causes include dirty condenser coils, failed fans, defrost problems, sensors, and sealed-system failures.
Why Won’t My Washer Drain?
Learn what causes drainage issues and how to diagnose pumps, hoses, and filters.
Why Is My Dryer Not Heating?
Find out the most common reasons why your dryer doesn’t heat and how to fix them.
Oven Not Heating? Top 6 Causes
From bad igniters to control boards—here’s how to identify the problem.